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More Facets = more light return?

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Newbie333

Rough_Rock
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May 25, 2003
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48
Somehow I also posted this on "Show Me The Ring"...


anyways, here it is:


In quoting one of the other posts about the "Diamond Game":



a regular diamond= 58 facets
Escada diamond= 97 facets
Leo diamond= 66 facets
Tiffany = ?
Eternal diamond = ?
Ashoka diamond = ?


So is this all just marketing, or are these new cuts more than just a name? 


Do more facets do more for the light return?


Does the H&A Idealscope not work or apply to anything other than the typical # of facets?


What''s the best way to go????


-NB333
 

Garry H (Cut Nut)

Super_Ideal_Rock
Trade
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15,306
More facets could be good, but I have yet to see a stone with more facets that really works better unless it was over 2ct (my opinion only - not fact).

There is a good case for the round brilliat 57 facet stone being as good as it gets. But a story is an asset and there are some good stories around - like the Gabi Tolkowsky stones - they look interesting and have lots of scintillation (some of which is a result of light not being returned out the top of the stone).

But if you like a fancy shaped stone then there are many very exciting new cuts around today
 

mike04456

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1,441

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On 7/9/2003 12:18:17 AM Newbie333 wrote:
a regular diamond= 58 facets
Escada diamond= 97 facets
Leo diamond= 66 facets
Tiffany = 50
Eternal diamond = 81
Ashoka diamond = 62

What's the best way to go????

----------------
That really depends on your taste. As Garry points out, no one has yet shown that these new designs increase brilliance (but how to measure brilliance in the first place is a matter of furious debate right now anyway). More facets are generally agreed to increase scintillation because they break up the white light return through the crown. Some people like this effect, some don't.

Marketing definitely has a lot to do with it. A proprietary cut prevents customers from using price lists and things like the HCA to compare stones across vendors, which most retailers love.


That said, there are some new cuts I find interesting, one of which is the J.C. Millennium, an 89-facet, 16-sided cut with a faceted "zig-zag" girdle.
 

mike04456

Brilliant_Rock
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Nov 20, 2002
Messages
1,441
Well, 88 plus the table, which adds up to 89 in some cultures.


I will say that I like the JC because it's a genuine attempt to try something different instead of being--like a lot of the latest cuts--just an attempt to cash in on the trend by polishing down a few facet junctions. But it's such a departure from the standard that they were pretty much flying blind on what it would produce, thus the leakage. The RB does have about a century of practice behind it. Maybe the others will catch up someday.
 

Newbie333

Rough_Rock
Joined
May 25, 2003
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48
Garry...


So you're saying the H&A Scope only works on a standard RB with the normal amount of facets?


By the way, is it 57 or 58?


NB333

 

Hest88

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 22, 2003
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4,357
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On 7/14/2003 5:39:47 PM Newbie333 wrote:
By the way, is it 57 or 58?
----------------
It's 57 plus the culet--if a culet is faceted. So I usually hedge and say 57 or 58.
 

rbjd

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 4, 2003
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154
Garry will correct me if I'm wrong. The IdealScope is going to work on ANYTHING, because it simply allows red (or pink really) light to be reflected back and show you where leakage is. I guess that would work on any cut.

A Hearts and Arrows viewer, on the other hand, is designed to make it easier to see hearts and arrows. Unless I'm mistaken, there aren't going to be either hearts or arrows on anything other than a round brilliant cut (with the possible exception of some new square cuts like Regent or Rhino's Queen of Hearts). I don't think any of these non-standard round cuts with extra facets exhibit H&A patterns (which makes them less interesting in my opinion.)
 

winyan

Brilliant_Rock
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May 9, 2003
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1,163
There's that new cut, Centro or something like that, supposed to have 100 facets.

win
 

mike04456

Brilliant_Rock
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Nov 20, 2002
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1,441
Rosy Blue's Cento (not Centro) indeed has 100 facets. But I've seen one and haven't been all that impressed. It has more scintillation but a lot of leakage.

100-facet designs are really nothing new. Gabi Tolkowsky has one (the Zoë ) and there have been a number of others going back several decades. I suspect the number is more for marketing purposes than design purposes.
 

winyan

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 9, 2003
Messages
1,163
Thanks LawGem! I only saw it on a back page of Vogue, so I know little about it, just barely remembered the name. However the number of facets seemed pertinent here.

win
 

mike04456

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 20, 2002
Messages
1,441

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On 7/15/2003 11:56:43 AM winyan wrote:
However the number of facets seemed pertinent here.

----------------

There have indeed been some "interesting" designs lately. I think the largest number of facets ever put on a marketed design was 144. I don't envy the cutters who had to produce that stone.

It didn't last very long.

 
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