Melee Quality on a Custom Ring?

[GemJones123]

Hello All,

I am in the process of designing a custom engagement ring, working with a local jeweler who outsources the creation of these to Gabriel & Co. We have gotten to the finish line now on the CAD after a couple minor iterations, but I’m a bit cautious to proceed as when I inquired about specifying the melee stones as F+ color / VS1+ clarity I was told they use SI1/VS2 & F/G for the sidestones and that those will look great.

The sidestones on this ring range from 2-2.5mm, with a pair of marquise that are 2.5mm x 5.5mm, so I am not sure how much one could tell the difference between the quality being offered vs what I proposed (though I am a woodworker and have a pretty keen eye for detail). Even so, I purchased an extremely fine 2ct D VVS1 Ideal cut centerstone ahead of the design phase. So it feels unbefitting to pair that with what are potentially going to be SI1 sidestones.

The jeweler has been very nice to work with and has not charged me for the CADs so far, so I feel bad pivoting to another vendor at this phase. However I don’t want to have spent a fortune on something I end up less than thrilled with. I’ve even played with the idea of purchasing higher quality melee stones and supplying those with the center, though Whiteflash informed me they do not sell their stones and I am not sure if any of the higher quality vendors would sell a small order to an end-consumer (Gruneberger?)

I’m hoping some of the more experienced and well-informed people here can help me with their thoughts.

Thank you!

 

[mayaINaU]

Hello All,

I am in the process of designing a custom engagement ring, working with a local jeweler who outsources the creation of these to Gabriel & Co. We have gotten to the finish line now on the CAD after a couple minor iterations, but I’m a bit cautious to proceed as when I inquired about specifying the melee stones as F+ color / VS1+ clarity I was told they use SI1/VS2 & F/G for the sidestones and that those will look great.

The sidestones on this ring range from 2-2.5mm, with a pair of marquise that are 2.5mm x 5.5mm, so I am not sure how much one could tell the difference between the quality being offered vs what I proposed (though I am a woodworker and have a pretty keen eye for detail). Even so, I purchased an extremely fine 2ct D VVS1 Ideal cut centerstone ahead of the design phase. So it feels unbefitting to pair that with what are potentially going to be SI1 sidestones.

The jeweler has been very nice to work with and has not charged me for the CADs so far, so I feel bad pivoting to another vendor at this phase. However I don’t want to have spent a fortune on something I end up less than thrilled with. I’ve even played with the idea of purchasing higher quality melee stones and supplying those with the center, though Whiteflash informed me they do not sell their stones and I am not sure if any of the higher quality vendors would sell a small order to an end-consumer (Gruneberger?)

I’m hoping some of the more experienced and well-informed people here can help me with their thoughts.

Thank you!

I think those are all good questions. I would not be concerned about melee being SI1 because it’s so small. I would be primarily concerned with the cut quality of the melee (I would want excellent cut or ideal cut only). Some people may be able to tell the difference between F/G in the melee and D in the center stone, and some people may not. I’m not sure if you are one of those people. However, I think MOST people would not be able to tell the difference. In terms of sourcing ideal cut melee, I’m guessing your jeweler could order it if you specify that that’s what you want. For example, I’m having a ring made by Sholdt, and I asked them to source the melee from Grunberger. They were able to do so without a problem.

 

[GemJones123]

Thank you! That is a good point on just asking they source the melees from Grunberger. I did call Grunberger today though and they said they don’t cut marquise and didn’t have a recommendation for someone that does, so would it look right to step up the round 2-2.5mm pave stones to Grunberger if they are going to sit next to a more garden variety marquise?

 

[Rfisher]

so would it look right to step up the round 2-2.5mm pave stones to Grunberger if they are going to sit next to a more garden variety marquise?

I wouldn’t.

K. Rosengart?

 

[GemJones123]

I wouldn’t.

K. Rosengart?

Ah interesting. So you are saying I should maybe try sourcing the marquise from K Rosengart and the rounds from Grunberger?

 

[Rfisher]

If given the choice between accepting come-what-ever-may-it-look-like marquise paired with premium rounds - vs the alternative

I’d check into all options

 

[tyty333]

Can you post a picture of your CADS? You should not have to provide the side stones. You are going custom. That's
their job.

It is hard to see color in melee due to their size. They just arent big enough to see any tint in (unlike a big stone).

The marquise side stones look like they may be 15 pointers? F/G SI1 should be fine. The cut would be more of the issue
but again, they are small so less of an issue.

Can you ask whomever is making the setting that they allow you to "approve" the marquise diamonds they select? (by
sending pictures first)

 

[GemJones123]

Can you post a picture of your CADS? You should not have to provide the side stones. You are going custom. That's
their job.

It is hard to see color in melee due to their size. They just arent big enough to see any tint in (unlike a big stone).

The marquise side stones look like they may be 15 pointers? F/G SI1 should be fine. The cut would be more of the issue
but again, they are small so less of an issue.

Can you ask whomever is making the setting that they allow you to "approve" the marquise diamonds they select? (by
sending pictures first)

Yes, this is the CAD. Looks like the marquise are spec’d at 13pts.

I suppose I could ask to see the stones ahead of setting, though there is only so much detail you can tell in a photo and it has been a bit of playing telephone with the retail jeweler between me and the CAD designer.

 

[lala646]

Frankly, I would be most concerned about the two marquise, given most of the round melee will be between the fingers (at least that's how it appears from the CAD), but those marquise are going to be very visible.

 

[tyty333]

I suppose I could ask to see the stones ahead of setting, though there is only so much detail you can tell in a photo

To be honest, I think you are overanalyzing. I would let Gabriel and Co pick the stones. Its in their best interest to provide you stones
that look nice. Maybe ask the jeweler what options you have if the marquise stones are not to your liking when you receive the
ring. Probably need to get the answer in writing.

You have picked a somewhat hands-off vendor (gabriel & co). If you had picked a different type of designer (David Klass or
possibly CVB) you could have had a little more hands-on capability (hindsight, I know).

 

[Rockdiamond]

To be honest, I think you are overanalyzing

I agree, and I feel for folks who do a lot of online research, and then get befuddled.
They're not going to pick some honkingly bad diamonds.
You're working with someone- their interest needs to be your satisfaction.
I'd ask what happens if you see the finished product and you're dissatisfied.

 

[Rfisher]

find a local store that carries G&Co and look at their round and marquise melee in person?
id assume that will give you a good general idea of what to expect.
and whether or not that makes you happy.