Major Help needed on setting this ROSE cut PEAR!!!

[dawnxcui]

I'm so excited to be asking this question, it just means i'm one step closer to getting engaged!!
sorry for the very long post, i just want to be able to provide every little detail i have so the experts here can give me some advice

my boyfriend and i picked out this gorgeous rose cut pear as my center stone. (Feel free to comment on the diamond below and give your honest opinions on the stone, since i don't know too too much about rose cuts i'm hoping that i made a good choice *fingers crossed*)
Here's the link to the bazillion pictures and videos Grace has posted, i've also attached a few below.
The diamond is a 2.53ct Pear-Shaped Rose Cut Diamond, GIA K, VS2
Measures 13.3 x 8.38 x 3.31mm
http://jewelsbygrace.smugmug.com/Loose-Diamonds/201-and-larger/253ct-Vintage-Pear-Shaped-Rose/




The setting i want to place this rose cut in is a halo. similar to the halo settings people get for their cushion diamond on this forum. here's a pear halo setting that i really like on the JbG website, it's created by DBL. I just love how intricate the fishtail pave looks!
http://jewelsbygrace.smugmug.com/Estate-Rings/201ct-Fancy-Yellow-Pear-Shaped/

I'm a size 4.5 finger so the diamond will provide pretty good finger coverage already that i don't want the halo to overpower the center stone.

i've asked around a few places and i know that most PSer would recommend Victor, Leon, Steve but they're out of my budget range even DBL quoted me $4900.
Grace quoted me in the $3000s, but does she do her own setting or does someone else set her stones for her? i haven't seen any of her works other than small bezel settings.
The only place that doesn't make my wallet cringe is David Klass's quote of $2150. he said it would be made with platinum metal and natural F/G color VS quality round brilliant diamonds.
I've seen the thread with David Klass's work, and they look pretty nice. Should i go ahead with working with David? He's offering free CAD drawing until I'm happy to make a payment.

I got my first CAD drawing from him yesterday and it's only the structural design. i'm a little underwhelmed to be honest, but i guess it's because the melees aren't drawn in yet so i can't get a good enough picture. i think he wants to get the dimensions right first.


so here are my questions regarding the setting:

1. what size halo should it be? what size melees should be used?
2. what size should the shank be? i told David to use 2mm as a starting point, but is that too wide? i want it to look delicate but not so thin that it breaks easy
3. what angle tilt should i put on the halo? or should i leave that to david?
4. this will be a complete internet purchase and i'm not able to try on the ring in person, is it better to go half a size up in case it needs to be resized?
5. how high should the halo/diamond be set, since it's a rose cut, how high does it need to be to let in enough light?
6. since rose cuts don't have a pavilion, the gallery part of the ring is starting to look a little empty. I want to have a unique design feature on this ring at the gallery but i can't think of anything that would look nice and not block too much light. Does anyone have any ideas?
7. i plan on having 2/3 of the shank pave'd (4 and 8o'clock positions) or should it be 3 and 9o'clock or 5 and 7o'clock? I don't want diamonds on the back but i also don't want to see plain shank from the top

thanks in advance for all your help!! here's to hoping that my ring will turn out amazing!

 

[telephone89]

No idea about any of your questions, but I wanted to say that I freaken LOVE this stone! I usually dont like pears because of the teeny tiny facets around the point, but this is so beautiful! It is going to look amazing!

 

[dawnxcui]

No idea about any of your questions, but I wanted to say that I freaken LOVE this stone! I usually dont like pears because of the teeny tiny facets around the point, but this is so beautiful! It is going to look amazing!

thanks!! i feel the exact same with pears, especially how it's so hard to hide the bowtie on most pears but this one just caught my eye. i hope it turns out well and i get some help from the experts here!

 

[dawnxcui]

Update: Just got a quote from Chris from BrilliantlyEngaged(ERD) for $2850 for a french cut pave setting.

 

[derbygal]

dawn, so happy you are the owner of that stone. I've admired it online for a while now, so happy it went to a loving home. Can't wait to see the finished project!!!!!!

 

[Gypsy]

Go with ERD.

 

[dawnxcui]

Go with ERD.

Thanks Gypsy, i'll talk to Chris from ERD to get some more details.
Is there a significant difference in the quality of work performed by ERD compared to David Klass?
Are you able to provide any more inputs on the other questions i asked above? I know it's a lot but anything would be helpful!

 

[dawnxcui]

still looking for advice if anyone can offer any! thanks

 

[EvangelineG]

I don't have answers to most of your questions, but I would say please don't continue to have David work on your behalf by revising this first CAD unless you are sure you are going with him. It only seems fair to commit to one jeweler before having them spend too much time on your project. It is true that David does not require a deposit before he will do CADs like most other vendors do, but I don't think his intention is to do "free" work for those who don't intend to become his clients.

I have worked with David three times now and will definitely be working with him again in the future. I haven't worked with ERD, but have only heard good things on PS, so I think you would be in good hands either way.

Your rose cut pear is beautiful! I had noticed it on JbG and wistfully dreamt of a pendant... I would be really careful about proportions for a ring though. This thing could turn out mammoth, especially on a 4.5 finger. I understand wanting a halo with a rose cut to bring in some sparkle, but I would want to keep the halo as delicate as possible.

Good luck!

 

[dawnxcui]

I have worked with David three times now and will definitely be working with him again in the future. I haven't worked with ERD, but have only heard good things on PS, so I think you would be in good hands either way.
but I would want to keep the halo as delicate as possible.

do any of your 3 pieces have any intricate halos on it? i haven't see any of David's Halo work so i'm just a little worried as most people do their halo settings with other vendors.

 

[Acinom]

I am not familiar enough with David's work. ERD is quite experienced in making this setting snd they will be able to advise you.
4 to 8 o'clock set with diamonds will be great. As well as having a 2 mm shank. I would indeed keep the halo as delicate as possible.

Your stone is a dream stone

 

[LindyLoooo]

I think SK is terrific, but he is very pricey. Leon - I worry about personality clashes... But David Klass did a really gorgeous pave pear. The video is on his Facebook page, here you go for ease: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=590760061006802&set=vb.561231593959649&type=3&theater

I dunno if there are better photos somewhere? You have many great options, good luck... and your stone is so so so lovely!

 

[dawnxcui]

I think SK is terrific, but he is very pricey. Leon - I worry about personality clashes... But David Klass did a really gorgeous pave pear. The video is on his Facebook page, here you go for ease: https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=590760061006802&set=vb.561231593959649&type=3&theater

I dunno if there are better photos somewhere? You have many great options, good luck... and your stone is so so so lovely!

i LOVE that ring! do you by any chance have the specs on how big the melees are and how wide the shank is?

 

[FrekeChild]

You should look at David's Facebook page to get an idea of his work. He has done a lot of halos, and lots of other items. I was wondering if you were going to want a wedding band to sit flush with the ring? If you do, some modification needs to be made to the head on the setting.

 

[LindyLoooo]

I'm not sure of the exact dimensions, sorry I really wish I could help! I know the stone was about 3 carats. I'm sure if you show it to David and say make one like this (but with a different shank) he can for sure. I think looking at his Facebook or even Pinterest is a great idea. The Pinterest is a bit more organized I think: http://www.pinterest.com/DK_Jewelry/

Good luck! I'm very excited for you!

 

[dawnxcui]

Thanks everyone for your help! I think i'm fine with DK's quality of work and i'll just continue to work with him since he's so far been the most punctual person.
i'm excited!

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

Thanks everyone for your help! I think i'm fine with DK's quality of work and i'll just continue to work with him since he's so far been the most punctual person.
i'm excited!

I think you've made a good choice. I follow him on FB and his work seems very high quality for being done by CAD. I do think you should consider if you want a flush fit wedding band like another poster suggested, now would be the time to do that. This ring is going to be amazing, I can't wait to see finished pics!

 

[Niel]

I'm happy you stuck with SK I think he's wonderful and most importantly in budget .

I think the pear sits too high. If it was a normal pear that's one thing, but being rose cut it doesn't have a bottom,so there will just be so much negative space. Plus her finger is so small and diamond so big, there's no need for it to sit so high .

 

[dawnxcui]

I'm happy you stuck with SK I think he's wonderful and most importantly in budget .

I think the pear sits too high. If it was a normal pear that's one thing, but being rose cut it doesn't have a bottom,so there will just be so much negative space. Plus her finger is so small and diamond so big, there's no need for it to sit so high .

I asked Grace from JbG and she suggested sitting it 4-5mm off the finger. does that sound reasonable to you?

 

[Circe]

My suggestion - my strong suggestion - is to make sure the stone is cupped, foiled, or somehow otherwise shielded in the back to provide it from becoming a big, beautiful magnifying glass for the back of her finger. I adore rose cuts, but they originated in a period when a jeweler would no more set one unfoiled than a lady would have ventured forth without her farthingale. These days jewelers frequently set them with an open back, and while it can be cool in a pendant or earrings, it's not quite as "sparkly" a look as most ladies expect from their engagement rings.

One of the downsides to foiling or cupping, unfortunately, is that it can be hard to keep the underside of the stone clean. I'd suggest filling in some of the negative space Niel mentioned with a highly polished platinum cup that ends below an open gallery, just to give you the freedom to steam-clean it once in a while.

Congratulations on your upcoming engagement!

P.S. - Link to another rose-cut setting thread, a few pics of my own rose-cut solitaire. I love the look the cup gives ... even with a little tarnish to the foil, the depth is mesmerizing.

 

[derbygal]

The only advice I would give you would be to make certain your setting has a ton of prongs holding your stone in place, or go with a bezel setting. If you haven't heard of my troubles with my rose cut, I ended up returning the ring because the outer stones kept falling out and the center stone was continually loose with just 4 prongs holding it.

My stones could look very white and opaque in certain lighting (no foil backing) but as Circe mentioned, in some lighting you could see through to my hand. I liked the variations in how it looked. For reference, my stones were H-I in color. I'm adding a shot that shows how you could see through it at times.

 

[dawnxcui]

My suggestion - my strong suggestion - is to make sure the stone is cupped, foiled, or somehow otherwise shielded in the back to provide it from becoming a big, beautiful magnifying glass for the back of her finger.

One of the downsides to foiling or cupping, unfortunately, is that it can be hard to keep the underside of the stone clean. I'd suggest filling in some of the negative space Niel mentioned with a highly polished platinum cup that ends below an open gallery, just to give you the freedom to steam-clean it once in a while.

I've asked Grace from JbG about whether i should put a foil at the back and she was not a big fan of it due to the cleaning issues.
but i do like the suggestion of having an open gallery so it's still accessible.

what if i increase the size of the pear donut that's connected to the shank and leave it filled in instead of hollow. that would somewhat act as a foil.

 

[dawnxcui]

The only advice I would give you would be to make certain your setting has a ton of prongs holding your stone in place, or go with a bezel setting. If you haven't heard of my troubles with my rose cut, I ended up returning the ring because the outer stones kept falling out and the center stone was continually loose with just 4 prongs holding it.

My stones could look very white and opaque in certain lighting (no foil backing) but as Circe mentioned, in some lighting you could see through to my hand. I liked the variations in how it looked. For reference, my stones were H-I in color. I'm adding a shot that shows how you could see through it at times.

i did read about your story and i was so sad you had to return it.
it's so hard to add more prongs on a pear. it's not like a RB where you can just add as many prongs as you want and it'll still look nice and symmetrical.
Since i dont like the V prong at the tip of the pear, i'm pretty limited to only 4 prongs.

do you think it'll work if i double up on the 4 prongs that are currently shown in the CAD and make them double prongs so i end up with 4 pairs of prongs for a total of 8?

do you by any chance have any pictures of the back of that setting? i wanted to get an idea of how your gallery look.

 

[derbygal]

Hi again. I unfortunately don't have any shots of the underside of my ring. The shared prongs that held the outer stones curved downward sort of like these two rings (mine was pretty low set, though):

I don't know how good that would look to double up all prongs; I had missed that you already had a CAD in the works. Maybe double up on just the bottom 2? The other thought I had was to maybe have the stone girdle flush inside the halo, so the halo is sort of holding the stone in, if that makes any sense (instead of the stone sitting slightly on top like in the CAD). Maybe more experience buyers that have had rings made could chime in, as I don't have that sort of experience.

My stones would come loose within a day or two. The outer stones were shared prong. With rose cuts having no pavillion and so many facets on the tops going different directions, I can now objectively look at how fragile my setting really was. Any bumping at all of the outer stones and there was just nothing to help secure them in place.

Perhaps my ring was just poorly made? Maybe if you address these concerns with David he will be able to make sure your stone is rock solid.

I am so looking forward to seeing how your ring turns out, as I plan to have a big rose cut solitaire someday.

 

[derbygal]

Here is a pic of a Liz Taylor pear that doubled up on the prongs (but of course this ring was massive).

 

[derbygal]

Leon used double prongs on this round rose cut:

 

[drk14]

Hi again. I unfortunately don't have any shots of the underside of my ring. The shared prongs that held the outer stones curved downward sort of like these two rings (mine was pretty low set, though):

DG, I hope you don't mind me posting this, but since OP was curious about the gallery of your ring, was this it?


There are some additional pics on the second page of your 2012 thread:
http://www.pricescope.com/forum/sho...versary-rose-cut-lots-of-pics-t180671-30.html

 

[Sunstorm]

Hi OP, I would strongly urge you to put this pear in a completely closed setting, after all that was what they mainly did at the time. I can also further consult with my jeweler who has a lot of experience and is right now working with rose cuts too what they can be done so the outcome is the best for you. I am honestly not an expert on them myself. With pears it is generally best to do a V prong on the tip which can actually be done as part of a crown setting for example and can be executed beautifully so it does not look bulky, I have seen a lot of bad examples too, perhaps this is why you are against it. I adore pears but we know they are not the easiest hence they are my faves too. In this case the rose cut makes your stone even more difficult but hey this is a fun process.

Seeing this setting above, I am not very surprised that the outer stones fell out constantly if this was the setting, there is practically nothing to hold them securely in place.

Congrats on your engagement and the unique stone you have, now you just have to find a setting that will best accomodate this nice stone.

 

[derbygal]

Thank you drk. I missed that pic!

 

[Niel]

My suggestion - my strong suggestion - is to make sure the stone is cupped, foiled, or somehow otherwise shielded in the back to provide it from becoming a big, beautiful magnifying glass for the back of her finger. I adore rose cuts, but they originated in a period when a jeweler would no more set one unfoiled than a lady would have ventured forth without her farthingale. These days jewelers frequently set them with an open back, and while it can be cool in a pendant or earrings, it's not quite as "sparkly" a look as most ladies expect from their engagement rings.

One of the downsides to foiling or cupping, unfortunately, is that it can be hard to keep the underside of the stone clean. I'd suggest filling in some of the negative space Niel mentioned with a highly polished platinum cup that ends below an open gallery, just to give you the freedom to steam-clean it once in a while.

Congratulations on your upcoming engagement!

P.S. - Link to another rose-cut setting thread, a few pics of my own rose-cut solitaire. I love the look the cup gives ... even with a little tarnish to the foil, the depth is mesmerizing.

May I ask, have you ever seen one that's not fully foiled? What I mean is, something along the lines of a designed filigree, similar to screen mesh or something, but prettier?

I would imagine that would be cool,in my head. And would for cleaning though the open spaces. It must be stupid as I've never seen anyone do it, but in my head it always seems like the solution. Put it a few cm below the stone or cup it so it curves away from the stone so the design isn't clearly visible in the bottom of the stone.