macro picture of diamond

[kee07]

Hi,

I've been a visitor in this forum for a while.
I saw many nice picture of fancy color diamonds especially those from kenny, which are superb.
I am trying to take macro pictures of my own stocks but I find it difficult to achieve a good quality.

I'm using a Fuji Xpro1 60mm lens with addition of raynox 250 macro filter.

I attach a photo which is the best quality I can acheive.

Is there any opinion to improve the quality ?
Can I add an extension tube ? I have no idea at all. Thanks.

Regards,
Kee

 

[kenny]

Hi Kee and welcome and thanks for the flattery, which will get you everywhere.

Yum yum, beautiful FCDs.
Can we see more pics and know the specs?

I've done some homework and ... WOW your camera is very vey fine and an exciting breakthrough in pro cameras.
It has no mirror and emulates the Lieca rangefinders of old.
Your body has a clever new sensor that does not need the image-softening anti aliasing filters that almost all professional Nikon and Canon DSLRs have.
So your 18 MP provides the sharpness of 21 MP on a Canon or Nikon body.

Now to take pics of tiny diamonds you just have to move the lens away from the body via extension tubes or bellows, neither of which contain any glass.
FYI regardless of what the manufacturer says the Raynox 250 macro filter (and ALL screw-on close up lenses) does reduce the sharpness.
Sure, it does enlarge the image, which is good since the diamond fills up more of the frame before you take the pic and you therefor use more pixels. BUT ...
The problem is sharpness is like a chain; it is only as strong as its weakest link and that $75 "filter" is a VERY weak link in your $2,000 chain of very fine equipment.
I never use screw-on close up filters/lenses.
To me it looks like someone rubbed Vaseline over the lens.
Users consider them adequate when they have much lower quality set ups, but your gear is quite fine.

Keep in mind more magnification has nothing to do with sharpness and resolution.
You can buy a 20x loupe for $5, and a 10x loupe for $400.
Which do you think will reveal more detail? ... the $400 10x of course.

I've googled around and called Adorama, B&H Photo and even Fuji itself (800 659 3854 ask for Steve in Technical support) and at this time I could find no extension tubes made for this Fuji camera's X mount.
But take heart, IMHO this fine camera WILL catch on and sell well; I think it is only a matter of time before extension tubes will be made for your camera.

If you must buy something now, Kipon does make a Fuji to Nikon adaptor.
All of these let you put a nikon lens (or nikon extension ring or bellows) onto your Fuji camera body.
I could not find the opposite that allows you to put your Fuji macro lens onto the nikon mount of a bellows or extension tube.
I'm afraid that means your nice Fuji 60mm is not usable if you want to use extensions.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=kipon+fuji+x+to+Nikon+adaptor&_sacat=0&_odkw=kipon+jufi+x+to+Nikon+adaptor&_osacat=0

This will allowing you to put onto your Fuji camera one or more Nikon PK-13 extension tubes or the PB-4 or PB-6 bellows with a Nikon Macro lens (yes you'd have to buy a Nikon Micro lens.)

If you go this route I recommend a Nikkor Micro 105 mm f2.8, instead of a 55 or 60mm because at closest focus it is further away from the diamond so you get less ugly reflection of the black lens and camera and tripod in the diamond.

The new $900 105 f2.8 micro Nikkor lenses have vibration reduction, which I wish I had. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/424744-USA/Nikon_2160_105mm_f_2_8G_ED_IF_AF_S.html
This lens, while wonderful, has no aperture ring so you have to buy extension rings or bellows that have the proper electrical contacts so the camera can tell the aperture where to go.
Such a bellows is very expensive, Novoflex made in Germany.

A cheaper route is buying the lens I bought, a used one for $300. It's manual focus and has no vibration reduciton.
http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual-Focus-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses/1/sku-NK06010200791N?r=FE
This lens has an aperture ring so you don't need that expensive German bellows with the electrical contacts.
You can buy a used Nikon bellows like I have: http://www.keh.com/camera/Nikon-Manual-Focus-Bellows/1/sku-NK190074999990?r=FE

For now I recommend you do a test.
Take a shot with and without the close up "filter" and using your computer crop in the non-filter pic so the diamond is the same size on both and compare the sharpness.
I don't know which will be sharper, but at least you will be certain of how to get the sharpest pics using the gear you have today until a manufacturer comes out with either extension tubes for your Fuji or Fuji to Nikon mount adaptors.

 

[kenny]

Kee, also check out the lighting recommendations in this post.

Since diamonds behave like mirrors and windows controlling the environment and lighting is half the battle of getting good pics of diamonds.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/just-starting-tabletop-photography-starter-kit.179101/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/just-starting-tabletop-photography-starter-kit.179101/[/URL]

 

[kee07]

Kenny , thank you so much for your detail reply.
I'm impressed by your superb photos of fancy color diamonds.

I'm now considering the buy the nikon lens adapter, bellow with the Nikkor 105mm F/2.8.
Seems this combination will give good results.

I now have about 15 FCD and most of them are pink.
The one I posted is a fancy intense yellow, 0.61c, very warm yellow color that I like very much.
The one at the side (which is out of focus) is a 0.18c fancy purple pink, also my favourite color but too small to get good image.

I'm happy to share some more pictures with you after I figure out how to get better macro photos.
Thanks so much.

 

[kenny]

Kee, keep in mind a 105mm macro lens alone does not give enough enlargement for your diamond to fill up the screen.
It would offer adequate enlargement if you were shooting larger things like coins or stamps, but FCDs are TINY, at least the ones I can afford.

Sure you can crop in tighter on your computer AFTER the picture is taken but that won't look as sharp as if you enlarged the diamond by using extension tubes or bellows to move the lens away from the body BEFORE the pic was taken.
The reason is how many of your camera's pixels get used.
You paid a ton of money for 18 MP.
If you only use a 105mm macro lens a 0.15 ct diamond will use up fewer than 1 MP, hence the blur when you blow it up later on your computer.

Please go to this link and scroll down for a series of pics that demonstrate the enlargement you'll get with only the 105mm lens and what you'll get by adding bellows or extension tubes.

Honestly a Nikon PB-6 bellows I linked to above is only $200 and will get you the ultimate in macro results with a 105mm macro lens.
It is the only way your 0.15 ct FCD will fill up the screen and use all of your 18 MP.
If you really want to geek out you can buy the Nikon PB-4 bellows that has tilt and shift movements to control the plane of focus, which is always fixed and parallel to the camera with the PB-6.
The PB-4 would be useful for increasing the depth of field when you are shooting a collection of diamonds, not just one.

Also keep in mind this is not for the faint of heart or a person who expects point and shoot simplicity.
It takes some learning and lots of fussing around to get all this stuff to produce good results.
If you have the personality for it you will love the challenge.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/fancy-colored-diamond-collection.159746/page-8']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/fancy-colored-diamond-collection.159746/page-8[/URL]

 

[kenny]

More . . .

If you get the Nikkor 105mm be sure to also get Nikon's lens hood to block out stray light from ruining the deepest shadows with ghosts from stray light striking the glass. It's thick metal and built like a tank.
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/buy/olmused/Ntt/Nikon+HS-14+Lens+Hood+(52mm+/N/0/usedSearch/1

At the enormous enlargement your bellows and a 105mm can reach, tiny vibrations will blur your pics.
You need the heaviest, most stable tripod you can afford.
They ain't cheap.

If you can swing it, I recommend a Gitzo GT3330 tripod in aluminum for the highest weight, with a Manfrotto 410 head.

http://www.adorama.com/GZGT3330.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/124665-REG/Manfrotto_410_410_Junior_Geared_Head.html


That head has 3 coarse and fine adjustments for X, Y, an Z movements, which are a god-send when trying to move the camera a small amount at maximum enlargement.
You may want to make the tripod even heavier by hanging a brick from the hook at the bottom of the center column.

Next, at these enlargements even touching your camera to take the pic will blur the pic so use your camera's self timer or see if they offer a wireless remote control.
I think your camera allows you to use an old fashioned cable release; I would not use it since it can cause a little vibration even if you hold the cable to form a U.

Compose at f2.8 for a bright image and the most critical focus, then stop down before taking the pic.
Always shoot at mid aperture, f8 or f11, since every lens is sharpest at mid aperture.
If you stop down to f16, f22, or f32 you will get greater depth of field BUT the entire image increasingly gets softened by diffraction.
Use the Aperture priority exposure mode and ISO of 100.
Your exposures will be several seconds long so stand still so you don't vibrate the floor.

Next consider teathering.
Your camera has an HDMI jack and MAY have a LIVE VIEW feature.
You may be able to connect your camera to an external monitor.
Focusing and composing on a large monitor is MUCH easier than looking at a little 3" screen.
The image on a large screen will look noisy; don't worry, that noise won't be on the pic; the camera's electronics is designed to produce a nice 3" image, not a nice 20" image.

Some people prefer to teather their camera to a computer and there is software that may be able to control your camera from the keyboard.
I know some Nikon and Canon bodies can do this; you'll have to find out if your Fujipro can.
Call that Steve guy I mentioned above; he'll know.

 

[kee07]

Thank you again, Kenny.
Those are really expert opinions.

I just searched the NOVOFLEX webpage and found different bellow system.
http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/macro-accessories/bellows-systems/
They mentioned there is an adapter for Xpro for their bellow.
http://www.novoflex.com/en/products/macro-accessories/bellows-systems/adapters-for-balpro-1--balpro-ts/

I'm going to email them and see if I can attach the NOVOFLEX bellow via the adapter and use the Fuji 60mm lens.

Do you have any comment on this combination ?
Can it provide enough magnification for the diamonds ?
Thanks again.

 

[kenny]

I believe your 60mm and a 105mm will provide similar magnification on a bellows.
I can do a test with my 55mm macro and 105 macro, though my 55 and your 60 may have other relevant properties that make it an unfair comparison. (such as how closely it can focus)

The MAIN difference is the 105mm allows you to be further away from the diamond than the 60mm so the diamond reflects less of the black camera/lens/tripod.
This is a very big deal as you will discover if you try both side by side.
Do you really want lots of black reflections in your lovely pink diamond?
If you do decide to get a new Nikkor 105 Adorama or B&H Photo will buy your 60mm.
If you buy a used 105 KEH will also buy your 60mm.

Actually, the ultimate macro lens is the $1,800 Nikkor 200mm micro lens since it allows even more 'working distance" but is too heavy to put onto a bellows.

I have never seen or used a Novoflex bellows, only read about them.
I assume they are very fine because of their price, they're made in Germany, and they are even used for $50,000 Hasseblad cameras.
Their extension length is similar to Nikon's.

It's wonderful the Novoflex also transmits the electrical signals between the body and the lens.
None of the old discontinued Nikon Bellows do that.
My dream set up is a Novoflex bellows and a NEW Nikkor 105mm micro f2.8 VR lens.
The vibration reduction feature would be REEEEEALLY useful for the 30-second hold-my-breath exposures sometimes needed for high magnification macro work!!!

Unlike Nikon, Novoflex appears to be a modular system, where you apparently you must buy at least 4 things.
2 adaptors that adapt both ends of the bellows to Fuji X mount, the bellows itself (you have choice between standard and one with tilt and shift) and a focusing rack to mount it to a tripod and allow the entire system to move forward and back for easy focus.
There may be other parts of the modular system you need that I don't know about.
In this pic of my Nikon PB-4 notice at the bottom the there is an additional rack and pinon section that allows you to move the whole sytem forward and back; this is a blessing to have.
It's built into the Nikon but you have to buy it separately with the Novoflex.



That's why I'd call Adorama or B&H Photo and talk to their pro department and try to locate a human who has full knowledge of what you need.
Also since you are entering a specialized field where equipment use/needs/application are not so obvious, and used by only a few of us macro-geeks, you may get an unpleasant surprise or two when you try to put it all together, so make sure you buy it from a place like B&H Photo or Adorama that has a good return policy. (NOT eBay!)

The NEW Nikkor 105 micro f2.8 is VERY attractive because it has vibration reduction.
I'd kill for that feature.

If you have the credit limit here's what I'd do...
Buy everything on the first day of your credit card billing cycle, and test the heck out of it all.
Keep what you like best, and you feel is the best value for your money, and return the rest for full refunds before your credit card billing cycle ends.
Reading about this stuff is inferior to actually trying it out.

I'd buy all of the following.
A new Nikon 105mm f2.8 micro VR. This lens has no physical aperture ring so it cannot be used with a Nikon bellows, only a Novoflex that transfers the aperture instruction signals from the camera to the lens.
The used Nikon 105mm f2.8 from KEH I linked to above.
The Novoflex bellows and a focusing rack and the adaptors to fit the Novoflex bellows onto your Fujipro body and adaptors to accept both your 60mm fuji lens and the new Nikon lens.
A Nikon PB-6 or PB-4, linked above, from KEH, and adaptor to fit it onto your Fujipro body; since Nikon Bellows do not transfer the electrical signals the Nikon Bellows will only be usable with the used old Nikon 105 since it has a physical aperture ring. (This BTW is the least expensive option, and the one I use.)

While every pic of mine was taken with a 30-year old Nikkor 105mm f2.8 (and they look pretty darn sharp) the new lenses (your 60mm and a Nikkor 105mm) likely have more advanced coatings and optical design for even sharper results.

Whatever you decide keep us posted.
I'm excited for you and look forward to your pics.

 

[kee07]

I've emailed novoflex support and the sales said the fuji lens cannot be used because fuji lens need electronics to control.
I don't really understand actually but it seems I have to buy some other lens anyway.

I'm also very interested in the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Lens, so I'm considering the novoflex bellow and see if it is compatible with my camera with the nikon lens.
it seems I need another adapter for the nikon lens to attach to the novoflex bellow and I'm asking the novoflex staff about this.
I'll see their opinion and decide what to buy finally.

 

[kee07]

I just got a reply from novoflex and they said their bellow does not transmit electronics, user have to operate manually.
But they mentioned a LEINIK adapter will allow nikon G lens to attach which allow stepless aperture control.

Does it mean the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S lens can be used ?
I'm getting confused.

 

[gongli]

Hi Kenny

Thanks for so much information and beautiful pictures. I have been tossing around the idea of getting a trinocular gem microscope, I was wondering how/where that fits into gem photography. For example that amazing discussion, comparison, and final shot of the GIA number on the girdle of one of the diamonds, would a microscope be able to do anything like that? I suppose not, your setup with the bellows seems to be able to take such rich and clear photos (to say nothing of the amazing diamonds!)

Thanks again for all your info and photos!

 

[kenny]

I've emailed novoflex support and the sales said the fuji lens cannot be used because fuji lens need electronics to control.
I don't really understand actually but it seems I have to buy some other lens anyway.

It's not simple; it's complex.
"Cannont be used" may mean a few things:
1. Physically cannot be attached - I doubt this is what they mean. We already know that companies make adaptors. (Maybe Fuji is saying this because THEY don't make the adaptors.)

2. All of your camera's convenient features won't work, like autofocus, auto exposure and metering. (This is NOT a deal breaker because all you have to do is put your camera in Aperture priority mode and shoot away. It is essential to manual focus anyway when doing macro work.

3. The body itself simply REFUSES to take a picture unless the lens is on the body - this is the case with all off the Nikon bodies like the D 40 D 50 D60 D90 D3100 and D5100.
If this is the case with your fujipro it TRULY? is a deal breaker.
I'm pretty certain I've read fora where users of your camera ARE inserting extension tubes.
I'm visiting family now and don't have time to google examples up, but you can and if you.

4. The person who said this is not familiar with this specialized field of macro photography.

I'm also very interested in the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Lens, so I'm considering the novoflex bellow and see if it is compatible with my camera with the nikon lens.
it seems I need another adapter for the nikon lens to attach to the novoflex bellow and I'm asking the novoflex staff about this.
I'll see their opinion and decide what to buy finally.

I would love it if you bought this combo.
I'd be so jealous.
Yes the you can buy a fuji adaptor for the body side of the bellows and a nikon one for the lens side.
People use non-matching camera/lenses all the time.
I'm considering buying Carl Zeiss lenses for my nikon bodies.

The super cool people do this.

 

[kenny]

A word of warning.
There is a small chance the novoflex will not transmit the signal from your Fujipro body to the Nikon lens to control the aperture.
Perhaps Nikon uses contact #2 for the aperture control signal but Fuji uses contact #3. I don't know.

Again that wonderful NEW Nikon lens does not have a physical aperture ring but the old one does.
The new one NEEDS the signal from the body to be told what aperture setting to go to.

I'd buy the Novoflex with a Fuji adaptor for the body, a nikon adaptor for the NEW 105 lens and give it a try.
If the body cannot control the len's aperture you are dead in the water.
If so, return everything and buy the nikon bellows and that old Nikon lens I recommended above.

 

[kenny]

I just got a reply from novoflex and they said their bellow does not transmit electronics, user have to operate manually.
But they mentioned a LEINIK adapter will allow nikon G lens to attach which allow stepless aperture control.

Does it mean the Nikon 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S lens can be used ?
I'm getting confused.

Hmm.
I'm not sure.
Perhaps they mean it will work with a Nikon lens and Nikon body.

Your best best is to really buy this stuff from a company with a good return policy, and try it all out.

 

[kenny]

Hi Kenny

Thanks for so much information and beautiful pictures. I have been tossing around the idea of getting a trinocular gem microscope, I was wondering how/where that fits into gem photography. For example that amazing discussion, comparison, and final shot of the GIA number on the girdle of one of the diamonds, would a microscope be able to do anything like that? I suppose not, your setup with the bellows seems to be able to take such rich and clear photos (to say nothing of the amazing diamonds!)

Thanks again for all your info and photos!

By trinocular gem microscope I assume you mean a stereo microscope with an attachment to let a camera take pics via a third optical path.

I worked in a company with some of these microscopes and while they are invaluable for taking pics of inclusions you may have to get other lenses to get a wide enough shot to include an entire diamond.
also microscope lens designs have VERY shallow depth of field.

If you have the $$$ to buy a DSLR/Bellows/real macro lens AND a microscope that would be great, but IMHO the DSLR/Bellows/macro lens route is the best for the kind of photography I post.

 

[kee07]

thanks, kenny.
I'm still contacting novoflex and my local distributor.
Waiting for their reply and decide what to buy finally.

 

[kee07]

Hi Kenny,
I've finally bought the novoflex system and their lens.
Quality is fine but the pictures are not very good because of my skill.

This is a stone I recently bought, share the picture with you.

 

[kee07]

close up of the yellow diamond with the bellow

 

[chrono]

Wow, amazing clarity! I think you need more lighting though because the background seems rather drab and dark.

 

[kenny]

Wow, first I must say what a stunning pink oval.
It is to die for.

The resolution you have achieved on that GIA inscription is superb.
You now have better macro gear than most diamond vendors.
I agree the next step is definitely lighting, and controlling the environment since diamonds can be thought of as little boxes of windows and mirrors.
A picture if a diamond is a picture of the room.



A setup like this http://store.tabletopstudio-store.com/dejephkit.html would be a good choice.
There are also plastic domes and expensive boxes with lights built into the sides of the box.

I have a set up similar to the one in the pic above but I also use the front white cloth with a zipper opening in the middle to further prevent the darkness of the camera/tripod/room from being reflected by my diamond.

In that last shot of the laser inscription I'd hand hold the light and move it around so the inscription stands out more because of higher contrast that will result when you position the light just right.
Do it; you'll see what I mean.
In fact after getting the bellows experimentation, and thinking outside the box with lighting is the most important next step to improving results.

Next, post production processing is a must.
People who think it is a sin are ignorant the realities of high end macrophotography of diamonds, sorry I don't mean to insult.
You can retouch out all the dust spots (in lieu of cleaning the diamond and reshooting the pic) and adjust the brightness, highlights, shadows.
IMO this is entirely NOT cheating.
Diamonds trick the light meters of even the best cameras.
Diamonds by their nature reflect light, have high contrast, and fool even the best camera's light meters.

You can buy Photoshop for hundreds of bucks or Elements for under 100 or if you have a Mac iPhoto will do the job - it's what I use.

Which lens did you buy?
If the lens you bought does not have an aperture ring, can you control the aperture at the camera (IOW, does the Bellows transmit the signals from the camera body to the lens).
I ask because I'm considering upgrading to a new Nikon 105 which has vibration reduction, but it has no aperture ring so I'd need the Novoflex to transmit the camera's aperture instruction to the lens.

 

[kenny]

Before processing.




After.
This took 30 seconds.
Let me say, I don't know this diamond.
If I did I may have further altered the pic so it matches the diamond.

Let me also add, adding more light while taking this pic would NOT have helped.
It was the camera's exposure decision that was the cause of the problem ... see my next post.

 

[kenny]

Actually this is a great pic to illustrate something.

The reason it looks dark is the camera was fooled by that one very bright triangular specular highlight just below the center.
When deciding on the exposure, cameras assume what's closer to the center is more important.

Cameras make decisions.
When the subject has very bright and very dark areas the poor camera can only guess which is more important so it averages, and we get this result.
You and I know that one bright spot is less important than the exposure of rest of the diamond, but even the best camera would not know.

Post production processing (aka Photoshoping) is the superior HUMAN brain compensating for our stupid (though very fine) cameras.
Like I keep saying, Photoshopping is not always bad. (I cringe every time I hear the masses here say, "Vendor X Photoshops their pics.")
You can Photoshop to make a photograph more honest or more of a lie.

If your camera can, set it to shoot in RAW mode, as opposed to JPEG.
JPEGs are compressed and RAW is not so it captures more detail.
In post you will quickly find out that RAW files have MUCH more detail captured in the shadows and highlights so with RAW you can "save" pics that would have been too dark or bright to save if you shot in JPEG.

 

[kee07]

Thanks Kenny and Chrono.

Yes, I agree I need better lighting.
Those picture are taken with lighting from the lamp from my desk.
I need a light box and a support system for the bellow and camera.

I've bought the Schneider lens 80mm f/4.

The novoflex bellow does not transmit electric signal.
There is one bellow which is specifically designed for the Canon EOS system, only that one transmit electric signal.

To use with Nikon camera body and lens, I think a camera adapter and a lens adapter are needed to connect with the system.
From novoflex's webpage, they said the lens adapter comes with integrated aperture control and therefore allows the use of Nikon G-lenses that do not come with a manual aperture control ring.
Maybe you can ask their technical support staff by email, they reply quickly and can give more detailed answer.

 

[kee07]

This is another stone with amazing color
though it's tiny, only 9 points, it's beautiful

 

[kenny]

Wow! Stunning color in that Vivid Pink FCD.
Is it Purplish Pink?

Smart choice of lens.
If it is the lens I think it is, it is an enlarger lens.
Since fewer people make prints from film with enlargers these days enlarger lenses have been showing up on the used market and marcro geeks have discovered they make superb macro lenses, and often very affordable.
Plus German lenses like Schneider, Leica and Zeiss blow Nikon and Canon out of the water.

About tripods.
The heavier the better; this is not the same tripod you'd use for backpacking.
You want aluminum, which is the heaviest and fortunately much cheaper than those fancy high tech light materials like carbon fiber or basalt.
I recommend and use a Gitzo GT3330 aluminum base.
Be sure the order the one with the center column, since it's sold with and without it.
Actually right now I think Adorama has a mistake on their website, the one WITH the center column is $70 cheaper.
That is my understanding anyway; call them and ask them what the LS stands for; perhaps it is a feature I don't know about.
http://www.adorama.com/GZGT3330.html
http://www.adorama.com/GZGT3330LS.html

For the head I used to have a Gitzo ball head but at these high enlargements moving the camera just a smidge was nearly impossible.
I now have and LOVE the Manfrotto 410 head.
It has knobs for all three axes, both coarse and fine, making tiny movements of the system effortless.

http://www.adorama.com/BG3275.html

I've finally given up on the Novoflex for myself.
I only wanted it to solve my vibration problem since I'm in an old house with a floor the picks up vibration from trucks driving by, or me breathing during 30 second exposures.
I thought buying a new lens with Vibration Reduction would help but like you said even the Novoflex does not complete the electrical contacts which is essential to power the Vibration Reduction mechanism in the lens.

I think I'll look into flash systems.
The flash's short duration eliminates blur from vibration.
Many macro geeks always use flash.

Lastly, how amazing is it that the Internet has connect two people together with such unusual interests?
Fun fun fun!

 

[chrono]

Stunning FCD and the photography this time hits the sweet spot. It might be small but the saturation speaks for itself.

 

[kee07]

yes, I make a mistake, it should be vivid purplish pink, you have good eyes.
I want to edit the post but can't find this function after I posted for few hours... is it normal in pricescope ?

 

[kenny]

yes, I make a mistake, it should be vivid purplish pink, you have good eyes.
I want to edit the post but can't find this function after I posted for few hours... is it normal in pricescope ?

It's a killer FCD.

You can edit your posts for only 45 minutes.
After that they are frozen forever.

For something very important you can send a message to admin and ask them to edit something.

 

[chrono]

Yes, too much blue and too dark in tone to be a pure pink but we could guess that it was just a typo.

 

[kee07]

This is another special stone, fancy light gray blue asscher 0.55c
Although the saturation is not very high, blue color in emeral/asscher cut are difficult to find and I'm happy to have this stone.