Looking for an emerald

[Poppy890]

I have very recently started looking for an emerald. As they aren’t that durable - is it safer to get a no oil emerald - assuming that it doesn’t have any surface reaching fissures? I plan on making it into a ring and would like to wear it regularly.

I have been shown this - it’s minor clarity treatment certified by Gubelin. It’s a Columbian emerald at 15k per carat for 3 carats. Is the colour and clarity considered good? Realistically how much should I expect to spend on a no oil emerald around 2.5 carats?

 

[toomuchB]

Ok I'll bite but I don't trust my own advice so I hope others will correct me if I'm off base.

With this budget and specs a lot of if comes down to personal preference. Is it maybe worth travelling to see some stones before dropping that sum of money?

I feel wholly inexperienced to comment on the pricing based on the photo. If I had a nice budget like that I would seek cleaner and insignificant or even no oil.
But, many would be happy with this clarity. Others would go much lower in clarity and huge in size.

If no travel, I would ask the vendor: show me an example of the best you have in stock (trade ideal color, no oil, top clarity, as good as it gets) at around the same budget side by side this stone. It'll be smaller but you'd have a comparison point to decide for yourself if the differences are worth it. You could also ask to see, say, a 5ct at the same price range that is more included.

Regarding durability and oil. I'm no expert. If a stone is oilable at all it has surface reaching fissures (those without any are extremely rare). So, a no oil emerald may still have surface reaching fissures that have been cleaned out of oil and graded after being cleaned. I have a Torrington emerald with a fissure in the corner and it is a no oil stone - but lack of oil doesn't help durability for that corner.
It is a stone by stone basis. Really insignificant fissures may not pose much of a risk, oil or no. That is my understanding. Setting may be crucial to protecting the stone.

Hopefully others will be more precise and helpful, you'll have something amazing in the end no doubt!

 

[Autumn in New England]

That's a very fine emerald, no doubt about it! Personal preference also comes into play, naturally. She's a touch dark for me, and I like a little more blue, because that really gives it "the" glow. But I would be thrilled to add this stone to my collection.

It's tough to say whether a no oil emerald will be more durable than a minor oil stone. I mean, it's possible. But a no oil stone can still include surface-reaching fissures; they're just unfilled. And then non-surface-reaching characteristics can still pose structural issues. Personally, my stone is minor oil and I have zero concerns. But I am also very, very gentle with my jewels, and they don't get much wear. An emerald ring for daily wear will always be somewhat risky.

 

[Poppy890]

Thank you for the feedback! I really have no idea what shade of green prefer at the moment - I've seen references made to Muzo green, old mine and vivid green. Is there a website where I can see these different colours? I initially wanted something with no oil but have been told I could be looking at paying 3 times more than for minor oil and it probably isn't worth it. I was also told that emerald shouldn't be exposed to dish washing detergent, soap, sea water and hot water. Are they really that delicate? Do emerald rings need to be removed before hand washing?

In terms of setting an emerald so that it's less exposed, would a bezel or halo provide a bit more protection to the stone if I really wanted it for daily wear? Does anyone here have an emerald engagement ring? Do you find that you have to be really careful with it?

 

[toomuchB]

Thank you for the feedback! I really have no idea what shade of green prefer at the moment - I've seen references made to Muzo green, old mine and vivid green. Is there a website where I can see these different colours? I initially wanted something with no oil but have been told I could be looking at paying 3 times more than for minor oil and it probably isn't worth it. I was also told that emerald shouldn't be exposed to dish washing detergent, soap, sea water and hot water. Are they really that delicate? Do emerald rings need to be removed before hand washing?

In terms of setting an emerald so that it's less exposed, would a bezel or halo provide a bit more protection to the stone if I really wanted it for daily wear? Does anyone here have an emerald engagement ring? Do you find that you have to be really careful with it?

I am absolutely NOT an expert. What that said lol.
I imagine the recommendation to avoid soaps and hot water is to preserve the oil. Emeralds can be reoiled however. Pool or salt water is bad for metal in settings, not sure about effects on oiled fissures.

I don't feel qualified to answer the rest, sorry!
I can advise: dont get stuck on marketing labels like 'old mine' etc., they are subjective terms, you need to judge with your eyes. I would not rush into an big purchase without knowing exactly what I liked.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Thank you for the feedback! I really have no idea what shade of green prefer at the moment - I've seen references made to Muzo green, old mine and vivid green. Is there a website where I can see these different colours? I initially wanted something with no oil but have been told I could be looking at paying 3 times more than for minor oil and it probably isn't worth it. I was also told that emerald shouldn't be exposed to dish washing detergent, soap, sea water and hot water. Are they really that delicate? Do emerald rings need to be removed before hand washing?

In terms of setting an emerald so that it's less exposed, would a bezel or halo provide a bit more protection to the stone if I really wanted it for daily wear? Does anyone here have an emerald engagement ring? Do you find that you have to be really careful with it?

Colored gemstone grading isn't standardized like diamonds, so there really isn't any one term or formula to describe different grades. "Muzo" green refers to the color of emeralds found in the Muzo mining district of Colombia, which are considered the finest by some (myself included). Even still, it's subjective and there is a range. This article may be helpful... click.

With regard to the mounting, a bezel may help protect the stone, especially if it is octagonal in shape. Yes, emeralds should be kept away from cleansers, lotions chemicals, chlorine, hot water, ultrasonics, etc. That can damage or remove the oil/resin. Emeralds themselves are relatively hard (8 mohs), have poor cleavage (a positive thing, in this case), and have good toughness, depending on the extent and nature of the inclusions. I hope this helps!

 

[Poppy890]

Thanks for the link - it was very helpful. I definitely need to spend a bit more time researching and deciding what I actually like.

I came across this one - it’s GRS insignificant oil. and Muzo green - it looks like it has a bit more yellow to it than the other one. Is this one less transparent than the first one I posted? I can’t see through it at all - if that makes any sense.

 

[Poppy890]

Does this emerald have a hint of blue to it? I’ve read that emeralds are hard to photograph- in real life should I expect them to be lighter or darker than the photos?

 

[toomuchB]

Thanks for the link - it was very helpful. I definitely need to spend a bit more time researching and deciding what I actually like.

I came across this one - it’s GRS insignificant oil. and Muzo green - it looks like it has a bit more yellow to it than the other one. Is this one less transparent than the first one I posted? I can’t see through it at all - if that makes any sense.

'seeing through' a stone (e.g. being able to read text though it if placed upon text) suggests a window - a cutting flaw. Perhaps you meant something else, like obstruction from inclusions?

Does this emerald have a hint of blue to it? I’ve read that emeralds are hard to photograph- in real life should I expect them to be lighter or darker than the photos?

To me this looks more blue and more reminiscent of chivor material. I would say a bit lighter - but I may be confusing that with slightly lower saturation (more gray)

I could be totally wrong! just my amateur impressions... Having the stones side by side ie same lighting, time of day, etc helps compare.

If clarity if really important to you, Zambian material can be very, very glassy/clean. But Muzo is the classic/most desirable.

Anyway this is of limited usefulness when photographed across unknown and likely different lighting situations, but I find putting similar stones very close zoomed together in some collage web tool useful. This way you can more easily discern differences.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Thanks for the link - it was very helpful. I definitely need to spend a bit more time researching and deciding what I actually like.

I came across this one - it’s GRS insignificant oil. and Muzo green - it looks like it has a bit more yellow to it than the other one. Is this one less transparent than the first one I posted? I can’t see through it at all - if that makes any sense.

It looks a little dark in this photo, but I suspect it would be infinitely better in person. I'd also like to see a touch more blue, but again, emeralds really need to be seen in person!

Does this emerald have a hint of blue to it? I’ve read that emeralds are hard to photograph- in real life should I expect them to be lighter or darker than the photos?

I agree with @toomuchB on this one... not classic Muzo color, IMO (less saturation and a little too cool for me). If it's Colombian, it's likely Chivor. Again though, certainly a fine emerald!

 

[toomuchB]

OP, this is just my personal opinion - I would not be able to spend your kind of budget without seeing stones in person - as many as possible. And I have seen probably tens of thousands of emeralds on the internet. To me, this internet-experience is not good enough experience.
You do not have to travel to Bangkok or Colombia, which are probably ideal locations. There may be a dealer or jeweler with stock not too far from you (of course it is possible there are are no options). Even seeing material that is poorer quality -but still good or decent- than the above can help train your eye.
Then again some people spend 100k on a Harry Winston ring and trust their selection - and I don't look down on that, its just deeply personal.
My assumption is virtually all of these 'close to the source' dealers also have a no returns policy. So it is risky without being sure.


As always, my unqualified opinion.

late edit - you could contact a concierge service, for example Enhoerning Jewellery has good reviews here, and you will pay a premium but be in good hands and have any questions answered.