Leon Mege or Whiteflash for my Asscher RHR? Reality Check.

[pricescope]

Starry, i had counted melee in your ring and it seems that WF is going to use 1 pointers while Leon - around 2 points. Do you think know what size you want and what width of each split part it would be?

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/22/2007 5:44:35 PM
Author: decodelighted

Date: 2/22/2007 5:29:42 PM

Author: cara

(Whiteflash & Leon Mege rings) are not equivalent. Whiteflash makes no such artistic viewpoint statements on their website ... their designs do not typically have the same ''look'' as a Leon ring. So... Decide if you want the Leon ''look''. If it what you want, I think you have to pay him for it.

I agree with this train of thought. Both vendors turn out gorgeous jewelry - but have very different aesthetics. My taste leans toward the exquisitely GRACEFUL confections that Leon turns out time after time after time.

I agree with this too. If budget isn''t an issue, i''d choose a handmade Leon piece in a heartbeat. Especially for the daniel K like ring your wanting. I''ve seen the daniel k''s in person and they are the most dainty and delicate rings I''ve ever seen.

 

[Cehrabehra]

Date: 2/22/2007 7:43:33 PM
Author: Gypsy
Okay honey.

Picture a round ring from side view... so that its like an O or a clock face, or a steering wheel. The 9-3 position means the pave will go half way around the top of the circle or clock face or steering wheel. The 10-4 means that it will go 3/4 around the top of the O or clock face. The pave stops where those numbers would be on a round clock face. If you imagine a round clock face inside the O of the ring, the corresponding numbers are where the pave stops.

ooohhhhhh thanks!! I get it now!! I''ve only heard the o''clocks refer to top down views before LOL!!

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/22/2007 10:30:45 PM
Author: Pricescope
Starry, i had counted melee in your ring and it seems that WF is going to use 1 pointers while Leon - around 2 points. Do you think know what size you want and what width of each split part it would be?

You bring up an excellent point. I like the look of the Cartier ring where the diamonds get larger as they approach the center stone. I didn''t quite draw that accurately.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Pokey''s Leon ring is so gorgeous, but it really has more pave than I''d want up on the prongs and basket.

 

[Nicrez]

Personally, I have seen the handiwork of master craftsman, such as Oscar Heyman & Brothers under a loupe, versus some machine made based on seeing how the pave is done. It's like night and day. Even without a loupe.

To me, the look and feel of luxury is something you can hand down, and can withstand the test of time. Generally, I would prefer something more permanent for an heirloom quality piece, so it really depends on what your ring will be to you. Heirloom, a piece to enjoy or something upgradeable...? It might be up to your budget in the end...

As for pave, each little bead that holds a stone in place is actually a piece of metal pulled up from the setting, stone is set and the beads are created by flattening the little "prongs" of metal at the edges of the girdles. The size and shape of each of these beads (which is likely most seen under magnification) is the best indication of craftsman ship. The more even and well-done beads give the pave a flow and almost flawless diamond and metal feel that flows into one another...

Another finish detail that I feel craftsman do better than a machine is the finishing on the back of the piece, where the hole is cut for the diamond's pavillion in the metal. Of course this is done to give the pave a light and airy feel. When the holes are drilled out, they leave behind too much metal and give the look a heavy and crude look (even from above).

If hollowed out properly by hand, per stone, you can actually remove more metal from the area (craftsmen will often square the hole and not leave it circular, like it was drilled). This minimal amount of metal around the stone allows for it to be held in place, while at the same time giving the pave a lighter, and visually softer appearance, with a more elegant finish.

Try buying a piece of custom made furniture, versus something at Ikea and comparing the cost for wood... It all depends on your use and what you want. Everyone has a certain need, and craftsmen create settings for those who want a piece of jewelery and not just a ring. Maybe that's why I love antiques and old world craftsmen...

But that's just my $1.50...

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Have you seen the Danhov? ($2900)

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/22/2007 11:34:27 PM
Author: diamondseeker2006
Have you seen the Danhov? ($2900)

Thanks for the image. Yes, I saw the Danhov and Pokey''s LM ring. They are nice, but I am looking for something a little different. I would like a different shape to the split shank. I really like the Cartier shank that I posted, but would like a little more "swoop" from top view, like I have shown in my sketch. I would also like a thin channel along the edge. I like the way the Cartier shank transitions from flat arms to a rounded shank. I also like the way the two arms come together sooner than the Danhov.

I guess one thing that this post is making me wonder is whether or not WF will catch the design subtleties that I like, unless I spell them out specifically. I also wonder if I would just wind up with Pokey''s ring with one side of pave if I went with LM? How much "artistic license" does LM take? There are definite design elements that I want. Hmm...

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/22/2007 11:33:33 PM
Author: Nicrez
To me, the look and feel of luxury is something you can hand down, and can withstand the test of time. Generally, I would prefer something more permanent for an heirloom quality piece, so it really depends on what your ring will be to you. Heirloom, a piece to enjoy or something upgradeable...? It might be up to your budget in the end...

Another excellent point. I''ve thought about how likely I would be to upgrade this stone, but if I ever want to get it out of the temporary setting, I think I need to commit. Whether I spend $2500 or $5500, it''s still a lot of money. I guess I want to get a well-made, subtle product, but I also don''t want to throw money away. I''m not so worried about the budget, more about the price-quality trade off and if it''s justifiable.

"Heirloom" I don''t even consider. I would hate to force my taste on anyone. Beauty-is-in-the-eye-of-the-beholder, as they say.

 

[KristyDarling]

Hi Starry -- based on your posts, it definitely sounds like you''re going to need a custom, hand-made designer to do your job. The intricate details and subtleties that you''ve described are not easily attainable via casting. Like someone else said, LM has a "look" -- delicate, and fine. Although WF has done some nice pave work, I tend to think that their "look" is more sleek and clean...more contemporary. Leon is one of the few masters out there who can create a ring that looks like it stepped out of a 19th century Russian czarina''s jewelry box. Really, if the design you''ve sketched out is The One and there isn''t much room for give-take, then I would save up those pennies and go with someone like Leon. It''d be risky to "cut corners" on a specific design like that.

 

[Nicrez]

From what I heard there are custom designers out there who are willing to work with you... I recently read posts about Wink''s people and even ERD seems to be doing custom work now...

Why is it LM or WF only? I say give parameters and do your spiel, see what everyone says and then make an informed decision about who can do what for you and how much each person would cost on average...

To me, LM is not much of a decision. You either want him or not, regardless of price, because his look is distinct. As for a designer giving you what you want, it can be done....I think you will find someone to do that for you and it can fit in your comfortable range of setting price. Try Wink and try ERD and see what you come up with for other designers...

Good luck and I am sure you will be happily surprised that many people can design and create the exact look you want without spending a fortune!

 

[pricescope]

Sarry independently of who you are going to show what you want you HAVE to either make verbal description or (oh horror!) power point to clearly explain

that melee getting larger toward the stone (btw i like it too), because your drawing will be shown to you as a reason "why they are all the same" after fact.

If you'd like i will make a photoshop of this picture with more curve toward the prongs and will make power/arrows to the changes.

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/23/2007 8:34:10 AM
Author: Pricescope
If you''d like i will make a photoshop of this picture with more curve toward the prongs and will make power/arrows to the changes.

Wow, really?? That would be great! Yes, I hear what you are saying about my drawing and the melee size - an excellent preemptive call!

I put together a document with these pictures and a verbal description about what I like/want, but a picture is worth a thousand words, for sure. Thanks!

 

[pricescope]

This picture was made with an assumption that you want the "split point" at the same location Starry, is it right?

Now - Red are the outlines of the curves of the Original (on the left) and Yours (on the right).
Yellow arrows are the radius of the Original (huge R = very slight curve) and Yours (smaller r = more curve).
Blue is about prongs.

Do not forget to point out graduated melee sizes.

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/23/2007 11:30:28 AM
Author: Pricescope
This picture was made with an assumption that you want the ''split point'' at the same location Starry, is it right?

Now - Red are the outlines of the curves of the Original (on the left) and Yours (on the right).
Yellow arrows are the radius of the Original (huge R = very slight curve) and Yours (smaller r = more curve).
Blue is about prongs.

Do not forget to point out graduated melee sizes.

Wow!!!! Thanks!!!!! That''s perfect and exactly what I want! You are the photoshop guru for sure! This will be VERY helpful. I can''t say "thank you" enough.

Now I just need to decide....I may need some KoolAid.

 

[decodelighted]

WOW!!! Irina, you always AMAZE!!! I

that design

*swoopy
*graduated melee
*claw prongs

GORGEOUS! One of my fave parts of my own e-ring''s design is the swoopy-up-to-stone/graduated tapered bags combo. It seems so INTRINSIC ... has such FLOW ... yet provides a nice tension against the sharp/clear/clean lines of the Asscher. Also: sturdy. At least in *my* estimation.

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/23/2007 12:01:02 PM
Author: decodelighted
WOW!!! Irina, you always AMAZE!!! I

that design


*swoopy

*graduated melee

*claw prongs


GORGEOUS! One of my fave parts of my own e-ring''s design is the swoopy-up-to-stone/graduated tapered bags combo. It seems so INTRINSIC ... has such FLOW ... yet provides a nice tension against the sharp/clear/clean lines of the Asscher. Also: sturdy. At least in *my* estimation.

oh ditto..irina that is fabulous

 

[decodelighted]

I tried to find a "head on" picture of the swoopy-look on my ring .. this old pix will have to do.

 

[starryeyed]

Deco, I totally agree with you - that "swoopy" look really compliments the straight edges of the asscher. I love it too!

And I am so appreciative of the time Irina took to create this image for me! Thanks again - WOW!

 

[Pandora II]

This is too funny...

I have just sent Wink the exact same photos as the starting point for my ring.

I''ll post the email I sent him, so you can see what I asked for, and might be useful in case you forgot anything - I''ve just seen I didn''t mention the graduated size for the melee, grrrr:

Here, finally is the design for the setting for my tsavorite e-ring.
I am going to attach a number of photographs:

(Photos of Pokey Special)
These are shots of a ring that Leon Mege did for a guy on PS and was the
inspiration for me. I love the shape of the shank, the split and the doubleclaw
prongs.
However, I would like to channel set the shank from the eight o''clock to the
four o''clock position rather than the seven to five position Pokey has.
I do quite like the idea of the pave on the head, but only on the N/S sides not
E/W if that makes sense - this is the bit I''m most worried about.

B)

Here are two views of what I''d like to achieve

(Photos of my design attempt)

I particularly want the split to finish higher on the finger than Pokey''s does -
so it''s already a single shank when it starts to meet the other fingers.
The Pokey is also a bit like two rings stuck together at the bottom, whereas I
would want the shanks to flow into one another and be more like one ring at the
bottom.
This drawing makes it look very squared off, whereas I would like the shank to
be more rounded.

C)

cartieremerald.jpg
DanielK.jpg
These are another 2 rings that are similar. I particularly like the pave lines
on the Cartier - but more rounded at the bottom. The other is a Daniel K (union
square I think) - I love the pave on the head, but would prefer claw prongs.
Anyway, I should get the quote back soonish, so I''m happy to let you know what mine comes in at. I''m asking for Platinum and decent sparklies - not so worried on colour as they are going with a tsavorite so don''t have to match with a centre stone.

Hope this is useful.

 

[DMBsGirl]

Like others have said, if budget is not a major issue, I would pick the Leon without hesitation. Do a search and look at his work on here, I have never NOT been completely awestruck by his pieces. You have quite a stone there, and a Leon setting would be the perfect way to put it on display.

 

[pricescope]

Hey, thanks guys

Starry''s ring made me think of split shank going right to the corners and i made this mock up, getting rid of a basket in a way too.
It''s an X interchange of prongs under the pavilion, not seen too good in the picture.

 

[dianne]

Date: 2/22/2007 7:37:46 PM
Author: Cehrabehra

Date: 2/22/2007 6:52:30 PM
Author: starryeyed

Date: 2/22/2007 6:44:34 PM
Author: Cehrabehra
what does 9-3 o''clock vs 8-4 oclock mean???

If you look at the side view of the ring and think of it as a clock, it indicates what portion of the ''clock'' has pave. Does that make sense?

So 9 to 3 o''clock means the diamonds extend halfway around. 8 to 4 o''clock is a little more pave.

how sad am I that I have no idea what you''re talking about even still??? LOL Are you talking about where the split shanks hit? do you mean 12 and 6 oclock? LOL I think I need rings for dummies!!

lol...it''s good to see that someone besides me needs crayons and poster paper...

 

[Ellen]

Date: 2/23/2007 8:31:53 PM
Author: Pricescope
Hey, thanks guys

Starry''s ring made me think of split shank going right to the corners and i made this mock up, getting rid of a basket in a way too.
It''s an X interchange of prongs under the pavilion, not seen too good in the picture.

 

[widget]

Wow Irina....I''m so impressed! Your just keep getting better and better!!!

widget

 

[Kaleigh]

Date: 2/23/2007 9:15:56 PM
Author: widget
Wow Irina....I''m so impressed! Your just keep getting better and better!!!

widget

Ditto!!!! Irina, you have such a great talent.. We ar so lucky that you share it with all of us.

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/23/2007 8:31:53 PM
Author: Pricescope
Hey, thanks guys

Starry''s ring made me think of split shank going right to the corners and i made this mock up, getting rid of a basket in a way too.
It''s an X interchange of prongs under the pavilion, not seen too good in the picture.

Wow, that is totally gorgeous!! I have no idea about setting dynamics, but would this be feasible without a basket? Would it have to be quasi-tension set?

This is really beautiful. Hmmmm.....

 

[starryeyed]

Ok gang, so the overall impression that I am getting from this thread is that Leon Mege is worth the premium (if it''s within budget). Would anyone disagree?

Do you think that the price he is asking for this setting is reasonable? FYI - roughly $5500 for 0.8-1.4 carats of pave in platinum. For those of you who have had pave done by LM, does this estimate sound "on par"?

 

[mrssalvo]

starryeyed,

I think Leon''s quote is fair and although not cheap he is reasonable when you compare him to other big name designers who do similar quality work. michael b for example has pave settings that are 8K. same for daniel K, beaudry, tacori etc. So that is at least what I mean by his prices are better than one might think. he''s not a bargin by any means but there is truth to getting what you pay for.

 

[starryeyed]

Date: 2/25/2007 1:23:22 PM
Author: mrssalvo
starryeyed,

I think Leon''s quote is fair and although not cheap he is reasonable when you compare him to other big name designers who do similar quality work. michael b for example has pave settings that are 8K. same for daniel K, beaudry, tacori etc. So that is at least what I mean by his prices are better than one might think. he''s not a bargin by any means but there is truth to getting what you pay for.

Ok, thanks. This is the first time I am considering custom pave - all of my other custom rings have simple sidestones, so I really don''t know how to judge this.

I have a few pave rings, but they are finished products. I guess I was thinking this would be more in the $4K range because there is no pave on the shank sides, nor on the head.