Lab Diamond for a 1 Carat Semi-Bezel Ring

[GemView]

Hello,

I recently reentered the loose stone market after a long, long absence in effort to replace a round brilliant CZ in a custom semi-bezel ring my spouse gifted me years ago. (The goal was always to put a diamond in it but this was before lab diamonds. Now I'm poised to pounce

First part of the question has to do with what latitude I have on loose stones for a 1 carat semi-bezel mount? (The ring was designed for a 6.5mm round.)

The online retailer I shopped for a loose stone didn't provide individual photos or IGI cert numbers. However, I took a chance thanks to an excellent return policy and a stellar birthday discount. What I ended up receiving is a F/VS2 1.05 carat IGI "Ideal" with a HCA of 1.3. It's 6.61 - 6.64 X 3.95 MM.

First impression is that the stone faces up large, bright and firey. Second impression, is that it may be too large for my ring. Third impression is that a 60% table with a 13%/32.9 crown angle (59.6 depth, 40.9 pavillion) may not be ideal for a semi-bezel mount (Cert LG602321731).

First impressions aside, how does this lab diamond earn a low HCA with a 60% table?

It looks great in person. However, I am partial to a smaller table and a higher crown. Consequently, I did some checking and found what seemed like a perfect choice: 1.02 E VS1 (6.47 - 6.50 X 4.01 MM) with a 15%/34.1 crown height and a 56% table. However, the HCA is coming back as a 3.6! (Cert LG618468516). Nontheless, the 1.02 lands in the GIA "Excellent" and AGS 0, whereas the 1.05 falls into the GIA "Very Good" and AGS 1,2 despite a lower HCA. How do I make sense of this?

I am open to alternative suggestions for loose stones other than the above, but meanwhile which of the above two might be expected perform better, assuming both will fit?

Thanks for reading.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Are you sure that the new stone can be set in your current mount? Some bezel settings cannot be rebuilt that way.

 

[GemView]

No, I'm not. I was told that the CZ could be removed but not how much +/- 6.5mm would work.

The design is similar to the one shown at the top of this page: https://beyond4cs.com/jewelry-guide/bezel-engagement-rings/

 

[Kim N]

We usually recommend crown angles of 34-35 and pavilion angles of 40.6-40.9. Both stones you posted have proportions outside of these ranges.

Can you talk to the jeweler who will be doing the resetting work to find out the actual range of diameter that will fit and whether it can be done at all given that it's a semi-bezel?

 

[GemView]

Thank you, Kim N, for the clarification on the crown and pavillion angles.

I moved over two hours away from the jeweler who originally created the piece. The jewelers in my area charge exorbitant prices. When I return to visit family where I formerly lived, I'll find out, (Or if I make a purchase that doesn't fit, return it. Saves a step.)

My guess is that the closer to 6.5mm the better, so I did a search and located a 1.05, E/VS1, which is almost spot-on for size ((IGI Cert LG618468508):

6.49x6.51x4.03,
56% table (15% with 34.6 crown angle),
62% depth
40.8 pavilion

The aforementioned, unlike the 1.05 F/VS2 mentioned in my first post, approximates the GIA Excellent range and AGS 0 according to the HCA report. However, since both earn the same HCA score am I likely to notice a difference in real life?

I'm guessing the E/VS1 is about as good as it will get for sizing. Should I take the plulnge? (I have never made a purchase from the retailer DreamStone and would also like to know if they come recommended by anyone here.)

Thank you

 

[GemView]

Update:

My original intent in posting this discussion was to better understand the HCA since I haven't used it for ~15 years. (For instance, I compared two very different 1.05 carat stones — the first (F/VS2) and an E/VS1 in my previous post, which both score a 1.3 when I wouldn't expect, based on differences in crown/pavilion angles and how much their approximated GIA/AGS scores differ, to score identically.)

I decided to go ahead and order the IGI certified 1.05 carat E/VS1 indicated in my previous comment. (Found on Dream Stone, which came up while using an HCA alternative on Stone Algo, On that tool, the E/VS1 scores a 9.4 — quite a bit higher than the F/VS2 mentioned in the OP.)

Unfortunately, the transaction raised some red flags I created an account but did not receive a Dream Stone email confirmation. Then I placed the order but did not receive an order confirmation. Upon revisiting the account, I found a notice that my payment was declined — but upon contacting the credit card issuer they said they never declined anything. (Nothing hit.)

Although I have not been in the market for a loose stone for years, I am aware that online diamond retailers use bank wire and the like but this company didn't ask for a CCV and referred to the CC number as a "CID". (Had to look up the term to realize it stood for "Credit Identification Number".)

I have surfed online diamond retailers enough to know that many don't offer the likes of PayPal, Google or Apple Pay but in hindsight it doesn't seem like Dream Stone is properly configured to process CC payments at all. (Wouldn't surprise me if every customer who checks out with a credit card receives the same notice.)

I called the toll-free Dream Stone number but all they wanted was the SKU to confirm that the IGI diamond is in stock. (They said they didn't need my order number!) I was then told to expect a callback within 40 minutes to process the payment but no one followed up. By this time it was very, very late where I am located (PST) so I sent them an email expressing my concerns. Earlier today, I received an invoice with no further explanation other than to visit the payment processor authorize.net to complete checkout.

Long story short, I have yet to finalize the order because I question whether Dream Stone is legit.. A Google search revealed favorable comments on Reddit and Trust Pilot — but beyond that I have no idea who they are.

Can anyone here vouch for them?

 

[GemView]

P.S. I tried looking up Dream Stone here on PriceScope but that word combination has been used thousands of times over the years by people talking about their "dream stone" vs. the company Dream Stone, hence the question.

Anybody?

 

[Ibrakeforpossums]

Other dealers can probably source that diamond with the IGI number. Your seller doesn't sound above board.

 

[lovedogs]

I know of dream stone and think they're legit, but I've never bought from them

 

[GemView]

I appreciate the replies. Thanks for the tip about other sellers having access to the same stone

 

[Dreamer_D]

I brought up the setting issue because if you can’t reuse the setting you can buy any size diamond you want which will open up your search.

 

[GemView]

I brought up the setting issue because if you can’t reuse the setting you can buy any size diamond you want which will open up your search.

I have had the same question myself. which is one reason why it still has a CZ in it ~10 years after it was made. At the time, I changed my mind at the last minute about what stone to set so the jeweler suggested a CZ. (It stuck with me all these years because he said the CZ could be removed later by breaking it.) He didn't mention the setting being unable to be reused but in the event I'm advised against changing the CZ out, I may put the (eventual) lab diamond in a pendant instead.

I had some work done last year on some antique jewelry by a local jeweler that didn't go well (topic of another thread) so until I revisit the area where I know more jewelers — the fellow who made this ring (if he hasn't retired!) or the woman who sold us our wedding rings — I'm not prepared to allow anyone to work on it where I live at present.

 

[GemView]

Update:

In the course of doing more research into Dream Stones, I stumbled upon a PriceScope discussion (on Google!) dealing with the company. (Here is a repost in case it helps someone else.) In addition, I found a Better Business Bureau entry for them (not accredited, but an A+ and 24 years in business). And finally, I was contacted by Ethan, one of the owners, who apologized for the situation I described previously. As a result, I will soon find out whether the Dream Stone 1.05 E/VS1 vs. the 1.05 F/VS2 with an identical HCA score (1.3) differ all that much IRL. (Went head and ordered the E/VS1 because the F/VS2 in my original post is likely too big for my setting and the 60 percent table is probably not going to look great in a semi-bezel, regardless.) I'll follow up to report how it all turns out!

 

[GemView]

Hello again,

I thought I would update about my experience with a Dream Stone "ideal" lab diamond, which I purchased after starting this topic because the lab diamond I initially purchased elsewhere was too big and had to be returned.

Apparently, the 1.05CT stone was in Hong Kong for a gem show and had to be shipped back to New York so it only arrived recently.

Two impressions: Attractive stone. However, it also appears bigger than anticipated, which could be problematic because I purchased this lab diamond for a 6.5mm semi-bezel ring and can't go bigger.

I measured the diamond using a digital caliper and a MM gauge and ended up with conflicting results. (It's supposed to be 6.49x6.51mm per the cert but as you can see from the attached photo it's quite a bit larger on the MM gauge. I then checked the laser inscription with a loupe against the certificate and it checks out so a bit of a mystery. .) At any rate, I am planning to have the it measured by a jeweler in the coming week to verify.

It is not a hearts-and-arrows ideal cut, however an arrow pattern does show up under certain light (not as clearly as my "ideal" engagement ring in my profile pic, though). Unfortunately, the weather is very gray and dreary today but I did my best to capture a clear photo.

I very nearly spooked on buying this stone because I know nothing about Dream Stone. One of the company owners remained in contact with me about my order status, which was a plus. If, however, the diamond does not fit my setting I may soon find out how responsive they are to returns!