Jewelers that only do ''custom'' and don''t sell designer rings, what''s the deal?

[garek007]

Hi,

I was at a jeweler tonight who said that they don''t offer designer settings. They can only make a knock off, or a custom setting that looks like a James Allen, a Ticori, etc.

Is this typical?

He said that because they were ''wholesalers'' and discounted stuff so much, that they were not allowed to sell designer settings.

Is this true, or is it a pitch designed to sell me lower quality jewelery?

 

[yssie]

Date: 2/16/2010 10:33:26 PM
Author:garek007
Hi,


I was at a jeweler tonight who said that they don't offer designer settings. They can only make a knock off, or a custom setting that looks like a James Allen, a Ticori, etc.


Is this typical?


He said that because they were 'wholesalers' and discounted stuff so much, that they were not allowed to sell designer settings.


Is this true, or is it a pitch designed to sell me lower quality jewelery?

BEWARE of any jeweller who offers to knock off a setting for you! Reputable institutions will not replicate designer settings - violates copyrights and could get them into a world of trouble if the right ears heard.. you can get "inspired by" work done at many places though

 

[elle_chris]

The only reason I can think of a jeweler not carrying designer settings is because of cost. Each piece they order they''re paying for and then they have to hope it sells.

 

[mrssalvo]

it's probably true they that the designer will not allow them to sell their jewelry or they cannot afford to buy into the line. designers will also pull their lines from vendors who discount them too much. But, I would suggest proceeding with caution with this "wholesaler"....

 

[denverappraiser]

If they’ll sell to you, a retail consumer, then they’re not a wholesaler, by definition. That may seem obvious but a significant majority of retailers now call themselves wholesalers because consumers take this to mean that the prices are low. Maybe they are (and maybe they’re not) but you should evaluate each deal and each dealer on their own merits, not on how they describe themselves on their business card. We already know they''re a retailer, what remains is to decide what it is that they''re retailing.

Lots of smaller jewelers have a hard time getting the good designer lines. In part that’s because the designers want to give regional exclusives to their dealers and they already have a deal with someone else, in part it’s because the dealers require certain minimum purchase levels to carry the line and the jeweler doesn’t have the money, in part it’s a requirement of creditworthiness on the part of the jeweler, in part it’s a desire by the designer (and the jeweler) to have merchandise that ‘fits’ the style of the store. Some jewelers, like Mark Morrell and Leon Mege who are often discussed here, could surely get other lines if they felt like it but they simply prefer to sell their own work. It may very well include that the designer doesn’t want to be associated with a retailer calling themselves a wholesaler or with one who so readily offers to produce a knockoff but I would bet that there are other issues at play as well.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[garek007]

he got great reviews on yelp.com, but one reviewer thought the place looked ''cheap''. From what I can tell they have been around a while, but would you agree that a store that doesn''t sell designer settings and seems only concerned with the lowest price, is ''cheap'' feeling?

They may not be concerned with the lowest price only because when I was talking about buying a solitaire from him and then upgrading it later, I was asking about price and he suggested I might try Union Diamond (my diamond seller) because I might get a better deal. He said that since I was buying the diamond from them, they might make a deal on setting. Interesting huh?

 

[Dreamer_D]

He might not have the clientel who want designer stuff. Most designers select the stores that carry their wares, and would not put their stock in a "wholesale" environment where the goal is volume not high ticket/quality.

You should get your setting from Union, they would probably give you a deal on the setting.

And FYI, most settings being offered in the under $1k price range are stock settings made by a few casting companies. Any jeweler can access those stock.

www.adwar.com
www.uniquesettings.com
www.stuller.com

These are the mose common casting companies. You can pick a setting then ask a jeweler who works with them to order it in.

 

[garek007]

interesting...

so obviously, a designer setting is going to be more expensive than a stock setting right?

if I went through union, I''d want to get the diamond, get it appraised first, then send it back no?

 

[Dreamer_D]

Date: 2/16/2010 11:49:02 PM
Author: garek007
interesting...

so obviously, a designer setting is going to be more expensive than a stock setting right?

if I went through union, I''d want to get the diamond, get it appraised first, then send it back no?

You don''t need to have it appraised unset. A qualified appraiser can examine the diamond when set and using the clarity plot on the cert, can identify the diamond as being the one you bought and can give you a value for insurance purposes. The only reason to appraise it unset is if you wanted an opinion about the diamonds cut quality or some other characteristics. If it is accompanied by a cert from a good lab then this is not necessary, in my opinion, unless it offers you peace of mind.

 

[garek007]

can anyone confirm that designer settings will indeed be more $$$ than stock settings?

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/17/2010 9:14:12 AM
Author: garek007
can anyone confirm that designer settings will indeed be more $$$ than stock settings?

most of the time yes. there is a wide range of factors that can effect the pricing of rings. Many high end designer rings are handmade which will dramatically increase the cost. You are also paying for the name and the reputation and quality of the designer. Stock settings are usually less b/c they are just that...stock. they are mass produced and more cost efficient.

 

[arjunajane]

Date: 2/17/2010 9:21:16 AM
Author: mrssalvo

Date: 2/17/2010 9:14:12 AM

Author: garek007

can anyone confirm that designer settings will indeed be more $$$ than stock settings?

most of the time yes. there is a wide range of factors that can effect the pricing of rings. Many high end designer rings are handmade which will dramatically increase the cost. You are also paying for the name and the reputation and quality of the designer. Stock settings are usually less b/c they are just that...stock. they are mass produced and more cost efficient.

yes, its exactly as Mrs said.

I guess it''s like buying a plain white cotton tee from Armani, or from Target - it''s all up to the individual, how much you value quality, perceived quality, and brand names.

However, you do not need to go "designer" with jewellery to get very high quality standard or work - many of the PS recommended and favoured vendors turn out consistently just as good if not often better settings than known name designer jewellers, imho.

 

[denverappraiser]

Date: 2/17/2010 9:46:54 AM
Author: arjunajane

Date: 2/17/2010 9:21:16 AM

Author: mrssalvo

Date: 2/17/2010 9:14:12 AM


Author: garek007


can anyone confirm that designer settings will indeed be more $$$ than stock settings?

most of the time yes. there is a wide range of factors that can effect the pricing of rings. Many high end designer rings are handmade which will dramatically increase the cost. You are also paying for the name and the reputation and quality of the designer. Stock settings are usually less b/c they are just that...stock. they are mass produced and more cost efficient.

yes, its exactly as Mrs said.


I guess it's like buying a plain white cotton tee from Armani, or from Target - it's all up to the individual, how much you value quality, perceived quality, and brand names.


However, you do not need to go 'designer' with jewellery to get very high quality standard or work - many of the PS recommended and favoured vendors turn out consistently just as good if not often better settings than known name designer jewellers, imho.

I agree. I would add to this that although some ‘designers’ are highly skilled and proud artisans, some are nothing more than a tradename for a Chinese sweatshop.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver

 

[garek007]

so each jeweler often has their own custom stuff huh? This vendor downtown San Diego has designer brands and listed among those is their own name.

can you tell me more about vendors who do their own great work? How does this work? Someone above mentioned PS vendors. Do all jewelers have their own custom stuff?

 

[mrssalvo]

Date: 2/17/2010 10:48:19 AM
Author: garek007
so each jeweler often has their own custom stuff huh? This vendor downtown San Diego has designer brands and listed among those is their own name.


can you tell me more about vendors who do their own great work? How does this work? Someone above mentioned PS vendors. Do all jewelers have their own custom stuff?

no, all jewelers do not have their own custom stuff, but many of the do. many of the popular PS vendors do offer designer settings but also have a custom department as well. It just varies vendor to vendor. Brian Gavin, Goodoldgold, Whiteflash, engagementringsdirect are a few of the commonly used custom vendors here. You also have Leon Mege, Maytal Hannah, Durnell that are custom designers as well. Pearlmans carries a ton of designers but they do not typically do any custom work.