Jeweler ruined maker''s mark in designer ring

[kelpie]

Those of you who read the colored stones section may have seen my delight when I won this emerald and diamond ring on ebay for a mere $1300. It has an 2ct emerald of unheard of color and clarity and 3 carats in diamonds. When it arrived I discovered it was marked Graff inside and I felt like I had bought a used pair of pants with a winning lotto ticket in the pocket. I took it in to get sized down and said, "This ring is marked Graff, which obviously affects its value. Please preserve the mark". The clerk wrote this note on the envelope and said they would preserve it if possible. I get the ring back and the sizing job is disappointing, lopsided, visible solder mark, and it looks almost like he misread the instructions and thought it was a personal engraving I wanted polished out! I can see the buffer marks up the inside of the ring where Graff was yet the 18ct mark on the other side is untouched. There was plenty of room to size down. In fact I can still see, though faded, the line that had to have been the top part of an "F". I mentioned this when I picked up the ring and the clerk says "he must not have been able to preserve it". I took delivery because I had been warned and did not want to give them the opportunity to ruin it further while trying to make it right. I LOVE this ring for it's stand alone beauty but I admit the designer factor had added major appeal. Now it is just a beautiful ring of very nice quality and not attributable as an important Lawrence Graff piece. I like to switch up my jewels from time to time and I thought I might like to sell it some day knowing as a Graff I could probably get many times more than I paid. Now that the mark is gone should I send it off to Graff for reappraisal and authentication? I realize this is mostly a vent. Sorry. Thanks for listening.

 

[Gypsy]

Yup. Send it in. It will affect the value TREMENDIOUSLY.

 

[kenny]

They wrote preserve maker's mark if possible and you proceeded?

I'm sorry but I'd say it's on you.

 

[Todd Gray]

For this very reason, designer rings should always be sent to the designer for sizing / repair... Nobody knows their work like they do and they have a direct interest in ensuring that the work is done correctly.

 

[Lula]

Oh, this just makes me sick! It''s a beautiful ring, kelpie.

Ditto Todd on the no one but the designer should touch a designer ring -- that''s a good lesson for all of us.

I do have to say I am surprised that Dover put a Graff ring on e-bay with no reserve. WTH??!!?? Do they not have qualified in-house appraisers? I guess I would want to make sure the stones are genuine, and that the ring is not a copy. All the more reason to send it to Graff.

 

[kelpie]

Well I felt like they had plenty of room to down size and clear instructions. I know the jeweler covered their butt, so I'm just trying to figure out how I can get it declared a Graff piece again. I was prepared that making it 3 sizes smaller might say cut of one of the "F"s, it didn't occur to me that they would polish it out of the entire shank. I'll contact Graff about authentication, which should be done anyway since any mark is reproducible. Todd, I have learned my lesson about being a cheapskate. Thank you Gypsy, Kenny and Todd!

 

[Todd Gray]

Date: 4/2/2010 6:56:27 PM
Author: kelpie
Well I felt like they had plenty of room to down size and clear instructions. I know the jeweler covered their butt, so I''m just trying to figure out how I can get it declared a Graff piece again. I was expecting making it 3 sizes smaller might say cut of one of the ''F''s, it didn''t occur to me that they would polish it out of the entire shank. I''ll contact Graff about authentication, which should be done anyway since any mark is reproducible. Todd, I have learned my lesson about being a cheapskate. Thank you Gypsy, Kenny and Todd!

I didn''t say anything about being a cheapskate (nope, that thought never actually crossed my mind).

I think that most people figure that if a jeweler can''t do the work (correctly) that they''ll say so... There are some pieces which (I think) a jeweler should know are "hands-off" situations that should be shipped to the designer for any work to be done and this is certainly one of those cases in my opinion. Hopefully Graff will be accommodating, err, FYI most designers will not work on pieces which were not purchased at full retail, in which case, you might not want to mention eBay

Also, many designers will not accept shipments direct from the public, so you might need to find an authorized dealer to handle the shipping details for you - we''re not one, but I know that this is standard procedure for many designers...

 

[kenny]

I'd call Graff and tell all in a weepy voice and get that checkbook ready.

I'm pretty sure whatever they charge you will be less than the increase in the ring's value with a real Graff maker's mark.

BTW how are you sure it was an authentic Graff ring?

 

[kelpie]

Thank you Sarap. I too was stunned by Dover's oversight, especially since they declare on their page "We frequently carry authentic pieces from some of the world's most renowned jewelers, such as Cartier, Tiffany's, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chopard and others." I am confident that the stones are genuine but it could be a reproduction and maybe they recognized this? Still the Graff make was already light and worn which looked consistent with the age of the piece. It didn't seem like a repro would show signs of age and wear, but crooks get cleverer all the time. Graff also doesn't seem mainstream enough to want to knock off.

 

[kelpie]

Todd, I know you weren't accusing me of being a cheapskate but that is certainly what I was doing when I took it to a small time west virginia jeweler. Lesson learned the hard way. I will contact Graff and tell them it is a family ring if they ask. When I inherited after my dear Auntie's passing the jeweler ruined the mark. I know I should have known better but I am but a country bumpkin!

ETA, maybe I will not even tell them about the sizing fiasco, just ask them to authenticate as I believe its a Graff but the mark was lost.

 

[Gypsy]

I''d say it is an heirloom. No mention of how it came to you. Not a lie. It is an heirloom. Now.

 

[kelpie]

Good idea, Gypsy. I already sent them an email saying it was a family ring. This is also true since I had a niece born last may and thought I would make a will bequeathing it to her and which jewelry my other nieces should get. So I am the dear old auntie now!

 

[bgray]

I must tell I have some serious doubt that this ring is by GRAFF. Graff has historically been primarily diamonds and while the emerald appears very clean it is somewhat lighter than the very best stones. This also doesnt appear to be a ring that they would produce. I could be wrong of course

 

[kenny]

Maybe the jeweler knew it was not authentic Graff and was covering themselves from any remote possibility of being accused of putting an incorrect high end maker's mark on a piece, but didn't want to tell you all this out of fear of losing a customer.

 

[kelpie]

I suppose it''s plausible, but I doubt this jeweler is even familiar with Graff. She did not seem to recognize the name when I asked her to preserve the mark. I emailed Graff and hopefully I''ll plunk down some cash and get this sorted out. Let''s just hope it''s not for some knockoff.

 

[Todd Gray]

Date: 4/2/2010 8:44:36 PM
Author: bgray
I must tell I have some serious doubt that this ring is by GRAFF. Graff has historically been primarily diamonds and while the emerald appears very clean it is somewhat lighter than the very best stones. This also doesnt appear to be a ring that they would produce. I could be wrong of course

One never knows, I ran a Google search for "graff emerald diamond ring" and found
this emerald and diamond necklace being advertised as from the Graff collection. While their primary business is definitely focused on diamonds, it is possible that they may have produced a ring like this.

 

[kelpie]

Date: 4/2/2010 8:44:36 PM
Author: bgray
I must tell I have some serious doubt that this ring is by GRAFF. Graff has historically been primarily diamonds and while the emerald appears very clean it is somewhat lighter than the very best stones. This also doesnt appear to be a ring that they would produce. I could be wrong of course

While it may not be determined to be a Graff, I found plenty of examples of their work using emeralds as the primary stone like the display below:

 

[jan can]

Date: 4/2/2010 9:00:37 PM
Author: Todd Gray


One never knows, I ran a Google search for ''graff emerald diamond ring'' and found
this emerald and diamond necklace being advertised as from the Graff collection. While their primary business is definitely focused on diamonds, it is possible that they may have produced a ring like this.

That necklace is one from my childhood dreams.

Like you, I never would have suspected this could happen. This is a lesson for any of us to use the knowledgable, authentic retailers for branded goods.

 

[PumpkinPie]

I''m so sorry this has happened kelpie

I hope you can get this fixed soon!

 

[Andelain]

Something to think about, kelpie...

The ring in gorgeous, no matter who made it.

When you won it, you had no idea it was stamped as a Graff, but were thrilled.

Even as a no-name ring, you stole it.


So even if it''s not a Graff or you can never get the mark restored you''re ahead of the game. And if you decide you want you''re $1300 back I''ll be happy to oblige you.

BTW, I understand the fun of finding something like that in your new treasure. I recently went into a pawn shop and saw this pretty ring with about a 1.2 ct perfect cornflower blue sapphire that I immediately decided was man-made because the tag indicated the ring was 10kt gold and the color was toooo perfect. I got it for $200, so what the heck, I liked it. Took it home and got out a good loupe, it''s 18kt, Stamped "LeVian", and is a naturan Ceylon sapphire. So I really understand the smile on your face when you saw that "Graff" stamp.

 

[bgray]

Date: 4/2/2010 9:12:09 PM
Author: kelpie

Date: 4/2/2010 8:44:36 PM

Author: bgray

I must tell I have some serious doubt that this ring is by GRAFF. Graff has historically been primarily diamonds and while the emerald appears very clean it is somewhat lighter than the very best stones. This also doesnt appear to be a ring that they would produce. I could be wrong of course

While it may not be determined to be a Graff, I found plenty of examples of their work using emeralds as the primary stone like the display below:

True but typically the emeralds and other stones are mixed with fairly important diamonds. I am not trying to offend you. The ring is lovely it just doesnt seem like something they would make. Again-I may be wrong.

 

[denverappraiser]

I would be very surprised if Graff will be able to authenticate it if you don’t have the ownership history and without the hallmarks.

If you have an Independent Appraisal that authenticates it prior to the damage and an insurance policy on the piece, this is quite possibly a covered loss. As has been pointed out above, the damage by erasing the marks is considerable.

Neil Beaty
GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Professional Appraisals in Denver