is this diamond worth considering

[Murf]

hi all, I’m dealing with a local wholesaler and he has sent me a few options to chose from. Based on all the info I’ve gotten from reading the forums I’ve singled out this one. Price is 5200usd. My budget is around 5000usd. Seems close to what I read to look for in a stone off researching and reading the forums. If anyone can let me no if this is worth considering. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you.

http://www.agslab.com/pdf_sync_reports/104099776021-PLDQRH.PDF

 

[skypie]

Yes provided it is eyeclean enough for you

 

[Murf]

Yes provided it is eyeclean enough for you

What do you mean by this? In the notes I’ve recieved it says it is eye clean, would that matter. Again I am new at this and just learning.

 

[skypie]

Eyeclean is a subjective determination so you would have to see it in person (or have very good photos) to determine if you can spot the various inclusions to a degree where it would bother you IRL

 

[Murf]

Eyeclean is a subjective determination so you would have to see it in person (or have very good photos) to determine if you can spot the various inclusions to a degree where it would bother you IRL

Got it thank you, would it be worth it to look at diamonds with a table 59% or higher?

 

[Matthews1127]

Got it thank you, would it be worth it to look at diamonds with a table 59% or higher?

A 60/60 diamond will be beautiful, but it will show more white, twinkle sparkle than rainbow flashes of light. That is all personal preference, so you’d have to decide which you prefer.
The above diamond is a great choice. The SI1 clarity grade, and plot incline me to advise you to see this diamond IRL, and determine that those inclusions are not noticeable, or distracting to the naked eye. Examine it in different lighting environments, as sometimes, inclusions are more noticeable in certain lighting environments over others. Hold the diamond close, and move it further away from you, to see how easily visible those inclusions are. The plot shows that the inclusions are likely clear/crystal inclusions, but twinning wisps can sometimes look like scratches in a stone, depending on their location, so it’s best to examine for yourself.
If it meets your expectations for clarity, I’d go for it!

 

[Murf]

A 60/60 diamond will be beautiful, but it will show more white, twinkle sparkle than rainbow flashes of light. That is all personal preference, so you’d have to decide which you prefer.
The above diamond is a great choice. The SI1 clarity grade, and plot incline me to advise you to see this diamond IRL, and determine that those inclusions are not noticeable, or distracting to the naked eye. Examine it in different lighting environments, as sometimes, inclusions are more noticeable in certain lighting environments over others. Hold the diamond close, and move it further away from you, to see how easily visible those inclusions are. The plot shows that the inclusions are likely clear/crystal inclusions, but twinning wisps can sometimes look like scratches in a stone, depending on their location, so it’s best to examine for yourself.
If it meets your expectations for clarity, I’d go for it!

Would this stone have good sparkle and fire? I will email the seller about the inclusions and then think about it based on the response. If it is eye clean enough would this be a good option based on cut first and price second? Thank you again for your advice.

 

[Matthews1127]

This diamond is certified by AGSL. They are very strict on Cut, and there is no doubt this diamond will perform; it’s an AGS000. The only concern would be the inclusions, based upon the plot & the SI1 clarity grade.
I’m not one to discount SI clarity grades; my EC is a beautifully clear SI2. Obviously, I’m willing to consider lower clarity grades, as long as my eyes don’t see any glaring imperfections. I’m a clarity freak, and my SI2 looks better MAGNIFIED than most VS2, and some VS1 EC’s I’ve compared it to. It all depends on the nature and position of the inclusions that make the difference.

 

[Murf]

This diamond is certified by AGSL. They are very strict on Cut, and there is no doubt this diamond will perform; it’s an AGS000. The only concern would be the inclusions, based upon the plot & the SI1 clarity grade.
I’m not one to discount SI clarity grades; my EC is a beautifully clear SI2. Obviously, I’m willing to consider lower clarity grades, as long as my eyes don’t see any glaring imperfections. I’m a clarity freak, and my SI2 looks better MAGNIFIED than most VS2, and some VS1 EC’s I’ve compared it to. It all depends on the nature and position of the inclusions that make the difference.

Thank you. I’ve emailed the seller asking for more info on the clarity and the stone itself. Hopefully I can also get some photos as well. Will wait and see.

 

[YoLaL]

Thank you. I’ve emailed the seller asking for more info on the clarity and the stone itself. Hopefully I can also get some photos as well. Will wait and see.

Hopefully its an eyeclean. But I rather check and see this diamond IRL.

 

[sledge]

If you are serious about this stone, ask them for ASET and IdealScope (IS) images.

Yes, "eye clean" is a subjective term; however, you would be wise to establish some standards based on the sensitivity of your eye sight so that you can fairly compare other diamonds. WhiteFlash (WF) defines eye clean as nothing visible from 10" away looking down from the top.

By this definition, you may be able to see something 10" away from the side. I am picky so when I was searching I defined eye clean as 6" from the top or side views. Others may not have as good vision and have more relaxed parameters. My criteria worked well for me, but eliminated diamonds others might have been happy to buy.

You mentioned going to larger tables. As others suggested you can go to a 60/60 style diamond; however, you get more flashes of white light instead of the rainbow sparkles that many people associate with being well cut (in today's standards). Not to say it's not great and desirable, but you should see one and know your own expectations before purchasing.

Assuming you stick to a traditional modern cut stone, these are ideal parameters to capable of achieving hearts & arrows (H&A) status, assuming that is important to you. I might add, it's possible to purchase a beautifully cut stone that isn't a true H&A and that is fine. Just many of us prefer them as it's the best cut & most sparkle.

FYI, this information is copied from another website, as sourced below. The source site also has diagrams for you to look at if that interests you.

http://www.heartsandarrows.com/hearts-arrows-diamond-ideal-cut-dna.aspx

• Pavilion Angle: range 40.2° - 41.2° (40.6° - 40.8° is optimum) - Your stone = 40.9
  • The most important factor in light performance in diamonds is proper bottom angles. Tolkowsky sighted pavilion angles of 40.75° and modern optical science has confirmed these angles to be mathematically sound. The pavilion main facets are like eight mirrors all angled in such a way to reflect light that enters a diamond at vertical angles from 0° to 15° from it’s axis. When the pavilion main facets of a diamond are angled too steep, they will not reflect maximum light back to the viewer. In fact, when these angles exceed 41°, the shaft part of the arrows begins to disappear. It is difficult to have bright evenly colored arrows in the H&A viewer, as these facets are beginning to reflect off the walls of the viewer instead of the white ring at the top. “Angle symmetry”, which refers to all of the facets of a group being cut at the same angle, is imperative in maintaining optical symmetry, so that all eight arrows “light-up” at the same time.
• Crown angle: range 33.4° - 36.4° (34° - 35° is optimum) - Your stone = 34.2
  • The crown angle works in harmony with the pavilion angle. If the pavilion angle is slightly steeper than optimum, a shallower crown angle must compensate for this. Conversely, a shallow pavilion angle can be balanced with a slightly steeper crown angle. However, a combination of a steep crown angle and a steep pavilion angle creates problems and would never be found in an H&A stone. For reasons like this, the AGS laboratory abandoned their “legacy” proportion system for their present light performance method. A good illustration of this is shown in the following example: A diamond with a 41.1° pavilion angle coupled with the 35° crown angle would have garnered an AGS 0 proportion grade, but has no chance for H&A due to the combination of pavilion and crown angle. The chart Fig CH-1 above shows crown angles that work in combination with specific pavilion angles that are imperative to creating bright H&A patterns while delivering superior light performance.
• Table Size: 53% To 58% (54%-57% is optimum) - Your stone = 58.4
  • The table size of a diamond affects both light performance and H&A pattern. In the arrows view, the table size affects the size of the table reflection (star) in the center of the stone at the culet. Fig B-6 It also affects the shape of each of the eight hearts by rounding off the shoulders of each heart. Fig B-5 Shows how the heart’s shoulders are squared-off and improved by the smaller table.
• Lower Girdle Halve length: 75% To 80% (77% is optimum) - Your stone = 79
  • The real secret to the Hearts and Arrows pattern lies in the creation of these 16 facets of the pavilion. This parameter is crucial in the process of creating the heart shapes. These carefully placed facets produce the eight pavilion mains that are the foundation on which both the hearts and arrows are created. It is imperative that all lower girdle halves are cut to exactly the same length and angle, or the resultant pavilion mains will vary in size and shape and will create crooked hearts and crooked arrows.
• Star Facet Length: 40% To 58% (45%-50% is optimum) - Your stone = 52
  • Star facet length is a little known factor in brillianteering that can impact the hearts or arrows pattern. In the heart view, the star facets round off the shoulders or lobes of the hearts, which directly relates to the size of the table. In the arrows view, each star facet contains two small pairs of triangles that are visible between the eight arrowheads. Fig B-9 Long star facet lengths will create problems in cutting the Hearts and Arrows Ideal. If the star facets are too long, they will create the negative effect called “clustering and interference figures”. This disturbs the typical pattern of the arrowhead and shaft area of the eight arrows by adding white reflections that alter the normal H&A pattern.
  • “Clustering” or interference figures can be exaggerated by a combination of long star facets >55%, lower girdle halves >77% along with steeper pavilion angles. This negative factor makes the arrows pattern unacceptable. The “perfect arrows view” below is much cleaner in appearance due to star facets that fall between 45%-50%.

 

[Texas Leaguer]

This diamond is certified by AGSL. They are very strict on Cut, and there is no doubt this diamond will perform; it’s an AGS000. The only concern would be the inclusions, based upon the plot & the SI1 clarity grade.

I agree with this. I would add that the report features dual light maps so you can see aspects of both light return and faceting precision.
With regard to clarity I am not surprised that it is eye clean as twinning wisps (the grade setting inclusions) are somewhat transparent in nature. The concern would be if the inclusions (those plotted and those mentioned in comments) have any negative impacts on transparency. An assessment by a qualified third party professional is always a good idea.

 

[Murf]

I agree with this. I would add that the report features dual light maps so you can see aspects of both light return and faceting precision.
With regard to clarity I am not surprised that it is eye clean as twinning wisps (the grade setting inclusions) are somewhat transparent in nature. The concern would be if the inclusions (those plotted and those mentioned in comments) have any negative impacts on transparency. An assessment by a qualified third party professional is always a good idea.

Thank you for your reply. I am going to request to see the diamond. With regards to clarity, in the comment section of the list of options I had, for this diamond it said confirmed eye clean from top view (no inclusions visible w/o 10x) and has hearts and arrows pattern. I will get the aset and idealscope results as well when the stone comes in. I hope everything will check out.

 

[Murf]

I agree with this. I would add that the report features dual light maps so you can see aspects of both light return and faceting precision.
With regard to clarity I am not surprised that it is eye clean as twinning wisps (the grade setting inclusions) are somewhat transparent in nature. The concern would be if the inclusions (those plotted and those mentioned in comments) have any negative impacts on transparency. An assessment by a qualified third party professional is always a good idea.

This is a photo of the diamond at 50x. I was referenced that the main inclusions are wisps and transparent, like you said. Any thoughts based off the photo before I request the diamond. Thank you again for your advice.