Is the traditional Tiffany setting ''too wide''?

[LaraOnline]

Hello there,

I have found myself selecting a Tiffany style 6-prong solitaire, in the old-fashioned, heavier, style.

However, I am a YG die-hard, and wouldn''t consider a WG version.

Although the knife-edge does soften the width of the shank, I am worried that the old-fashioned width of the piece will be too heavy in YG, particularly when paired with a matching plain TG wedding band of similar width.

I think the shank''s width is upwards of 3.5mm for a diamond just over 1 carat.

What''s your opinion on the traditional (heavy) Tiffany style setting?

 

[DivaDiamond007]

Hi Laura. Could you post a pic of the settings you are considering? I personally also love YG and wouldn''t consider WG for my wedding set, either. I also like my rings to feel substantial on my finger so I think the width would be good - for me. Do you like a more delicate look or something more substantial in general?

 

[Sharon101]

I think that there is no denying that `current` fashion is to have a more dainty look. But as we know fashion can be a fickle
b-tch and you should always follow your heart.

I equally remember my fashion forward friends with their super wide bands looking soooo trendy when I got engaged about 15 years ago as today thinking that delicate is the bees knees.

But, there is a difference between purposely choosing wide rings, and choosing them by accident because you didnt realise it was an issue.

 

[LaraOnline]

This is probably the most important photo to view, as it gives a clear indication of how wide the ring will be in relation to the prongs. (Although of course they are still to be fitted around the diamond.)

It is a beautiful, well made ring... I''m just not sure as I''m a bit of a fashion victim and am worried that the heavier / wider band will look clunky in the YG...

I think this setting is quite true to the spirit of the original, so I guess a key question is... is the original Tiffany setting just too old-fashioned for YG?

 

[Imdanny]

Date: 3/15/2009 8:42:59 PM
Author: LaraOnline
so I guess a key question is... is the original Tiffany setting just too old-fashioned for YG?

That's an interesting question. If I had to guess, I'd say, "no." It's used with platinum, and platinum is heavier.

As to the weight, remember that 18kt is heavier than 14kt is heavier than 10 kt. Also, 3.5 is not wide, imo, considering it tapers (at least, that's what I think you meant by "the shank's width is upwards of 3.5mm for a diamond just over 1 carat.")

 

[MissGotRocks]

I happen to like yellow gold but I don''t think the color of the metal has anything to do with the width of the ring. The width is the same no matter yellow or white metal.

I don''t know what about the ring that you''re thinking you won''t like - have you tried it on in person?

 

[JulieN]

I don''t understand.

Either you want the wide one or you want the current Tiffany (probably 2.5 mm)? Why can''t you get a thinner one if you want a thinner one?

 

[LaraOnline]

It is interesting that the current Tiffany is 2.5mm...
The reason this has come up is that I am buying through a local Australian diamond merchant (Jogia) and they are really diamond guys, not so much into the settings, although they are getting a manufacturing jeweller in house...

I waxed lyrical in a LIW thread, which gave the whole background.

Basically, I wasn't expecting to buy a Tiffany style, in fact being a country bumpkin I have never set foot in a Tiffany store! Although I guess I will in future! There's one in Perth.

Does the modern 2.5mm Tiffany style allow a wedding ring to sit flush? My understanding is that with the thinner style, the head might protrude from the shank, pushing the wedder away from the e-ring?

I've written Jogia an email, asking whether it is possible to thin down the shank and still have the wedding ring pretty much flush... it doesn't have to be perfect...

 

[MissGotRocks]

I think you are correct about the 2.5 mm ring not allowing a band to sit flush with it. I wish I could tell you that I prefer one over the other but I''ve never tried the 3.5 mm ring on.

Will be interesting to see what your jeweler says about thinning the ring down . . . he may think it will be fine the way it is. I''m guessing if it has the knife edge it''s not going to look ''thick''. However, if you are having doubts, I guess now is the time to iron it all out!

 

[Imdanny]

Date: 3/15/2009 9:08:07 PM
Author: MissGotRocks
I happen to like yellow gold but I don''t think the color of the metal has anything to do with the width of the ring.

Right. Only the weight. My bad. Sorry.

 

[Imdanny]

I wouldn't want anything more than 3. (at any point) and to be honest, I'd want 2.5 if I chose a solitaire to give.

But that's just me. I wouldn't like a 3.5mm ring, regardless.

And I was going to say, isn't the Tiffany setting known for being thin? Thanks for clarifying that.

I've been in a Tiffany store, but only because I grew up close to NYC. It's "a tourist thing." All the locals let you know what they think of
"tourists."

 

[Kasey3]

Hi Lara

I have the superbcert Tiff repo setting and the ring does not fit flush with my very dainty pave band-but I happen to love the ever so slight gap-it is definately not a huge gap at all. I also have a plain band-the tiffany plat knife edge band and it is almost a perfect flush fit, but not quite.

I used to have a 3mm plat band and I ultimately changed it as i felt it was too heavy and it over powered my diamond.

Of the two, I love the knife edge tiff setting more, and it looks fab with a diamond band. Maybe you can go and try on different widths to see what you like best, and what looks best on your hand. You can always order a setting and have the diamond set by the people you are buying the diamond from.

 

[LaraOnline]

Date: 3/15/2009 9:33:33 PM
Author: Imdanny

Date: 3/15/2009 9:08:07 PM

Author: MissGotRocks

I happen to like yellow gold but I don''t think the color of the metal has anything to do with the width of the ring.

Right. Only the weight. My bad. Sorry.

Actually, I meant that I though YG, being a more ''in your face'' colour, gave the APPEARANCE of being wider than the WG / plat, in the same design. Also, YG, being not as fashionable currently as WG, has to avoid being ''overly classic'' for fear of looking dated, perhaps... Sorry for any confusion.

 

[LaraOnline]

Date: 3/15/2009 9:29:54 PM
Author: MissGotRocks
Will be interesting to see what your jeweler says about thinning the ring down . . . he may think it will be fine the way it is.

yeah, essentially that''s the thing, he''s an old-fashioned guy and can''t really understand why I''d mess with ''the classic proportions''...

the knife edge definitely makes it look more delicate though, I guess I could go to 3mm in the knife edge and feel happy with it...

 

[makemepretty]

My sister in law has a very thick yellow gold setting for her 1 ct princess. I love the look. I think as long as the setting isn''t wider than the stone(it can be equal to it though) it would look just fine.

I have the classic knife edge Tiffany setting and it''s very very delicate. Delicate is the best word I can find to describe it.

 

[LaraOnline]

I wonder if you have the modern or the older setting? When was the ''modern'' knife-edge Tiffany setting introduced?

 

[Sharon101]

Date: 3/15/2009 8:42:59 PM
Author: LaraOnline
This is probably the most important photo to view, as it gives a clear indication of how wide the ring will be in relation to the prongs. (Although of course they are still to be fitted around the diamond.)

It is a beautiful, well made ring... I''m just not sure as I''m a bit of a fashion victim and am worried that the heavier / wider band will look clunky in the YG...

I think this setting is quite true to the spirit of the original, so I guess a key question is... is the original Tiffany setting just too old-fashioned for YG?

Lara, the infinate details of a ring are what makes it. This ring doesnt look like it tapers at all.

I also want to say that when you are dealing with an old fashioned jeweller you will find it very hard to get what you want because they dont know at all what you are talking about.

We are in the jewellery business and my dh got a diamond guy to make my ring and it turned out really bad because he didnt understand details. I ended up getting it remade at considerable cost by a modern jeweller who actually makes up jewellery for a living.

There is even much more to the ring that makes it old fashioned than the width. It is a combo of how thick it is, how rounded on the profile, the way it tapers or not. There is a reason that rings from the past look old.....design is everything....and the devil really is in the details.

I also think that if T. has changed their stats then there must be a strong reason for this.

Thats not to say that wide rings are not trendy, but they are done differently, ie super wide and not tapered or thick. ie they look like they were meant to be made wide.

I think you should look to other ring makers as you have waited so long for this ring and I think you need to see some irl and to try some on too. You would be surprised how different things look on your own hand. I learnt that my finger is not long enough for 3 rings even though I was planning on this look. You might not have room for the 3.5mm plus wedder.

Anyway, good luck!!!!

 

[LaraOnline]

Author: Sharon101
I also think that if T. has changed their stats then there must be a strong reason for this.

Sharon, thank you so much for your excellent advice, I appreciate it so much.
I spoke to the guy today. I suggested shaving 0.5mm off *cue eye roll * I mean, I probably should have straight out said 'take it down to 2.5mm', but he did leave me the option of taking another look at it as well.

So it's going from 3.25 to around 2.7-2.8...

By looking at the photos online, it seems 2.5 really is a sweet spot. It's kinda hard to get out and look IRL, partly because there are very few quality jewellers where I live (okay maybe two would be helpful), partly because I work from home and partly because I am eight months pregnant and would have to drag the kids all over town as well!!

So, we'll see...

 

[Imdanny]

Date: 3/16/2009 9:46:32 AM
Author: Sharon101

Date: 3/15/2009 8:42:59 PM

Author: LaraOnline

This is probably the most important photo to view, as it gives a clear indication of how wide the ring will be in relation to the prongs. (Although of course they are still to be fitted around the diamond.)


It is a beautiful, well made ring... I'm just not sure as I'm a bit of a fashion victim and am worried that the heavier / wider band will look clunky in the YG...


I think this setting is quite true to the spirit of the original, so I guess a key question is... is the original Tiffany setting just too old-fashioned for YG?

Lara, the infinate details of a ring are what makes it. This ring doesnt look like it tapers at all.


I also want to say that when you are dealing with an old fashioned jeweller you will find it very hard to get what you want because they dont know at all what you are talking about.


We are in the jewellery business and my dh got a diamond guy to make my ring and it turned out really bad because he didnt understand details. I ended up getting it remade at considerable cost by a modern jeweller who actually makes up jewellery for a living.


There is even much more to the ring that makes it old fashioned than the width. It is a combo of how thick it is, how rounded on the profile, the way it tapers or not. There is a reason that rings from the past look old.....design is everything....and the devil really is in the details.


I also think that if T. has changed their stats then there must be a strong reason for this.


Thats not to say that wide rings are not trendy, but they are done differently, ie super wide and not tapered or thick. ie they look like they were meant to be made wide.


I think you should look to other ring makers as you have waited so long for this ring and I think you need to see some irl and to try some on too. You would be surprised how different things look on your own hand. I learnt that my finger is not long enough for 3 rings even though I was planning on this look. You might not have room for the 3.5mm plus wedder.


Anyway, good luck!!!!

NOT apropos of this thread, but just saying, I think this is a really great point. It's why I find the opinion that, for instance, a Cartier 1895 is basically a Cartier 1895-replica plus a red box, to be wrong. Wrong on every level. Wrong as a matter of fact, wrong as advice for consumers. It's actually the *differences* of products we should look at, IMO, if we want to get the best values. You can't get the best value if you don't understand what it is you're valuing, in the first place. I'm sorry for the tangent, but I agree with the sentiment: the devil is in the details. Right on.

 

[makemepretty]

Mine is the skinnier newer version and because it tapers to the knife edge it appears more like the width of a 1.5mm band. That''s pretty narrow. The bottom looks even thinner than that. I think you should go with whatever type of setting appeals to your eye. I also love the thickness of the Lucida setting. There''s so many gorgeous settings out there that it''s really really hard to choose.

 

[kama_s]

I dont have anything insightful to add, but OMG, Lara, are you finally getting your upgrade?!?!?!?!?!??! I sure hope you are!!

 

[LaraOnline]

Date: 3/17/2009 6:36:38 AM
Author: Imdanny

NOT apropos of this thread, but just saying, I think this is a really great point. It''s why I find the opinion that, for instance, a Cartier 1895 is basically a Cartier 1895-replica plus a red box, to be wrong. Wrong on every level. Wrong as a matter of fact, wrong as advice for consumers. It''s actually the *differences* of products we should look at, IMO, if we want to get the best values. You can''t get the best value if you don''t understand what it is you''re valuing, in the first place. I''m sorry for the tangent, but I agree with the sentiment: the devil is in the details. Right on.

Kama thank you for the wishes. I appreciate it, and look forward to posting in SMTR!!!

It is interesting that even jewellery sellers, or MAKERS are not able to discuss the fine detail of design with customers, even if they themselves have a good understanding of design process...although I do think that the better the understanding, the more able to verbalise they are.

When I was getting married, I wanted our local jeweller to make up a tie pin and cufflinks for me, to give to my husband to wear to the wedding. The tie pin was pretty cool, but the cufflinks...

not only were they not ready until after we were back from honeymoon, but the design was dreadful... I had to ask for my money back - the lady on the front counter readily accepted and refunded me without the slightest demur!

This jeweller, who I actually liked as a person, was originally a watchmaker by training, and I wonder if that was where his real passion lay...

Design, particularly fashion-aware design, is a particular skill, and it is probably no wonder that people who are expert in one field are not totally ''across'' all the others as well...

The manufacturer of this ring has agreed to take 0.5mm off - that was all I was game to ask for! At least this way, I still have some room to move if when I see it, I feel the shank needs to be thinner still...

 

[MissGotRocks]

Date: 3/17/2009 8:38:20 PM
Author: LaraOnline

Date: 3/17/2009 6:36:38 AM
Author: Imdanny

NOT apropos of this thread, but just saying, I think this is a really great point. It''s why I find the opinion that, for instance, a Cartier 1895 is basically a Cartier 1895-replica plus a red box, to be wrong. Wrong on every level. Wrong as a matter of fact, wrong as advice for consumers. It''s actually the *differences* of products we should look at, IMO, if we want to get the best values. You can''t get the best value if you don''t understand what it is you''re valuing, in the first place. I''m sorry for the tangent, but I agree with the sentiment: the devil is in the details. Right on.

Kama thank you for the wishes. I appreciate it, and look forward to posting in SMTR!!!

It is interesting that even jewellery sellers, or MAKERS are not able to discuss the fine detail of design with customers, even if they themselves have a good understanding of design process...although I do think that the better the understanding, the more able to verbalise they are.

When I was getting married, I wanted our local jeweller to make up a tie pin and cufflinks for me, to give to my husband to wear to the wedding. The tie pin was pretty cool, but the cufflinks...

not only were they not ready until after we were back from honeymoon, but the design was dreadful... I had to ask for my money back - the lady on the front counter readily accepted and refunded me without the slightest demur!

This jeweller, who I actually liked as a person, was originally a watchmaker by training, and I wonder if that was where his real passion lay...

Design, particularly fashion-aware design, is a particular skill, and it is probably no wonder that people who are expert in one field are not totally ''across'' all the others as well...

The manufacturer of this ring has agreed to take 0.5mm off - that was all I was game to ask for! At least this way, I still have some room to move if when I see it, I feel the shank needs to be thinner still...

Sounds like a great decision. If you like the width, then it''s fine. If not, maybe he can take it down some more but you can never put it back if you take all the width off now. Keeping my fingers crossed that you like it exacty the way it comes out!

 

[Sharon101]

Date: 3/17/2009 5:34:56 AM
Author: LaraOnline

Author: Sharon101
I also think that if T. has changed their stats then there must be a strong reason for this.

Sharon, thank you so much for your excellent advice, I appreciate it so much.
I spoke to the guy today. I suggested shaving 0.5mm off *cue eye roll * I mean, I probably should have straight out said ''take it down to 2.5mm'', but he did leave me the option of taking another look at it as well.

So it''s going from 3.25 to around 2.7-2.8...

By looking at the photos online, it seems 2.5 really is a sweet spot. It''s kinda hard to get out and look IRL, partly because there are very few quality jewellers where I live (okay maybe two would be helpful), partly because I work from home and partly because I am eight months pregnant and would have to drag the kids all over town as well!!

So, we''ll see...

Hi Lara, just so you know Im an Aussie too!!!! And I definately know about the being pregnant and working issues as well.

But......I feel that you are heading down a dangerous path in mail ordering your ring. As you can see here, there are infinate variations just on prong work let alone the whole ring. Just because the jeweller you are working with says its a T. replica, doesnt mean it is at all.

You`ve waited this long, I would advice waiting till you can do this properly maybe in 6 months or so.

 

[Sharon101]

Sorry that was cut short by my kids!!!

Just wanted to add that design is something that looks effortlessly easy to know how to do. But, it really is an asset in itself over and above the materials used.

I dont think that you can just shave down an existing design to transform it into being modern. You could end up with something odd with no balance. Keep in mind that modern design is more than just the width. Its to do with the entire shape and heaviness of the setting.

If for example your jeweller does shave off a bit....where will he shave from, how will it effect the edges, will he know how to finish the ring so it looks like it was made to be that width?

I would be worried about tampering with an old design to make it into something it was not designed to be. I will bet that T. did not just make the width different , but that they modified the whole ring.

At the very least I would insist on them sending you a wax so you can test drive the ring irl.

Plus, take your time, even though I know you are excited with your green light to go ahead. It would be a shame to regret what you bought because you rushed without really researching your options.

As you can see from here, sometimes 2 rings that almost look identical are diferentiated over their different prongwork, or that one has a better head, or nicer curves etc. If you are on that level of caring then you have to try some on irl and really evaluate your options.

best luck with new baby and your new bling!!!!