Is anyone knowledgable about vintage watches?

ExpatBride · Jun 18, 2014

I'm shopping for an art deco cocktail watch and can't find much info on valuation, brands, etc. from that time period.

I love this watch, but I'm not sure about Movado in the 30s and if this is a good buy: http://www.sellingantiques.co.uk/250207/divine-movado-art-deco-platinum-and-diamond-ladies-cocktail-watch-c1930/

Any opinions? Or can you suggest an EU dealer?

Thanks!

MMtwo · Jun 18, 2014

I can share a little of what I know. I have done some collecting in the past. Most of my valuable collectibles are gone, but I still have a few old gems.

First, it is my understanding that the old watch makers sold the movement separately from the case. The case may not be a Movado case (I would ask). I also think that dial has been redone. Looking at my Complete Guide to Watches book, I see similar Movado oblong old watches, but none of them show the name "Movado" running across the minute markers. The work from that time tends to be very careful, and the detail work is fine, so I would question that (if the dial is original). I will post a face that was done about that time. It is old and worn. Most original faces show their age. Many times they will repaint the dials. Buyer beware.

Lastly, old watches from this time period are delicate. The ticking of the mechanism is kept running by a hardened steel as much as 1/3 the diameter of a human hair. Some of the pieces and screws are almost too small to see. If you think about the fine work ...these old watches are TRULY marvelous. Until we put a man in space, the watch was the epitome of tech. The jewels (in this case 17) are the pinkish jewels you see on the pivot points that drive the gears. They are usually made of created sapphire. metal on sapphire tends to last longer than metal on metal. Back in the day, a watch was an expensive item, costing the equivalent of a month or three of a working man's salary.

They also need cleaning and oiling by a watch repairman who will do it properly (no dunking cleaning, it needs a disassemble job every few years and a lubrication). The cost of a good service is 100-300 US. Many old watch guys (not mall watch guys, watch guys) are not fans of these miniature miracles. They are delicate and take precision work...my old watch-smith would HATE to see me coming with a new ladies watch.

The case was probably made separately and I would ask who made it - there should be a stamp inside. I cannot speak to the "deal" you would be getting, but these old beauties are usually valued for the jewelry part more than the watch movement. I would suggest you check out timezone.com for specific guidance on watches - especially old beauties like the watch you are considering. Like diamonds, there is a little to know before you buy, unless you are content at shiny. I would get a guarantee on a movement for some period of time to make sure it runs well. Oh, and watches that are "just over-wound" are broken. These old beauties cannot get wet and you must wind them daily....not a daily wear watch