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Picture is taken in diffuse daylight.
ZOINKS! BOOYA!!! YEEHAW!!! JUMPIN JEHOSOPHAT!!!
How do I explain the words going through my head ... the excitement I have felt seeing the diamond that IMO is going to revolutionize the diamond industry with regards to *square brilliant cuts*? Yes the princess cut is the highest square stone in demand but we are now witnessing a shape that is literally going to turn square brilliant cuts upside down. The princess is about to be dethroned by the most awesome square cut diamond to come into our lab. We are proud to present to you the Jubilee.
Picture taken in direct light.
Wow... where do I begin? There are so many positive features about this new cut it's difficult to determine where to start. In this tutorial I will be reviewing all the steps we take to determine what constitutes the most special diamonds we get to analyze in our lab and break it down in a step by step format.
The Jubilee gets its name from the famed Jubilee diamond which was first mined back in 1895 and was a whopping 650 carats! After cutting (to a cushion shape) finished out at a rather impressive 245ct colorless diamond and ranked as the 6th largest in the world. It is reported that the proportions and symmetry on this old cut were so precise (for it's time) that you could stand the diamond up and balance it on its culet. The new Jubilee is not a cushion shape but will set it's mark in the history of diamond cutting as the first true square shaped Hearts & Arrows square exhibiting the finest and rarest optical properties to be introduced in a truly square shaped brilliant cut diamond.
The Jubilee is a brilliant cut diamond that is faceted similar to the round in many regards but in a square shape.
On the crown...
There are 8 kite (or bezel) facets upon which the crown angles are measured.
There are 8 star facets surrounding the table.
There are 16 upper girdle facets.
And one table facet (of course). Just like a round.
On the pavilion...
8 pavilion main facets and
16 lower girdles (also called pavilion halves)
Here is a profile shot of the diamond on the Sarin.
Things to note concerning it's proportions.
Crown angles in the mid 34 range (excellent)
FANTASTIC crown height for a square (14%.. excellent)
Pavilion angles of 41 degrees (excellent)
Small table for a brilliant square (excellent)
A TOTAL DEPTH OF 64.8% (muy excellente' for square brilliant. We'll be covering more on the spread factor later on)
Girdle is thin on the corners and very thick on the sides. This is necessary due to the nature of the cut.
In short we FINALLY have a square here that is brilliandeered similar to the BEST ROUNDS that are available on the market. A 57 facet (58 if there is a culet) square that is proportioned to the square of my geeky optical dreams. 
For a look see of the Sarin DiaVision on this diamond here is the file as well as the DiaMension file.
I would begin with commentary on the credentialed Lab Reports (GIA, AGS, etc.) regarding polish & symmetry but I have only seen one Jubilee at the time of this writing and would want to see a number of stones before I comment on the consistency of their polish/symmetry grades so we're going to hop right into our optical analysis and share what we see here. Of note the first Jubilee we received has GIA "Excellent" polish and "Good symmetry. While this is good information to have it tells us little to nothing concerning the optical properties of the diamond and it's ability to reflect light back to the eye in various light conditions.
The Jubilee displays a crisp distinct Hearts & Arrows pattern whose optical design is 2nd to none in the world of fancies. Here are the first Hearts & Arrows pictures taken of the Jubilee to be published on the web.
What is important to note in these pictures is that not only are we witnessing an extreme level of precision regarding facet placement on a 3 dimensional scale but what the *whites* are telling us in an Hearts and Arrows viewer. The predominant color being reflected into crown of the diamond at a 90° perpendicular angle is a flat white eye piece that the observer/camera is viewing the diamond through. So whites in an H&A viewer represent light exiting the crown at that high angle which accounts for some of the most intense flashes of light/fire to come out of a diamond in direct light conditions and provides important points of contrast in diffuse light conditions providing for high contrast brilliance. Here is a picture of the Jubilee taken in diffuse white hemisphere lighting.
What this means is that the Jubilee will display the most incredible optics no matter what light condition you bring it into.
LightScope Analysis
LightScope analysis reveals one of the most incredible saturations of dark reds and blacks to be witnessed in a square brilliant cut. In this scope the blacks and dark reds represent the most intense light return that is exiting up through the crown. There are some minor areas within the diamond that exhibit weaker light return (under the table in the 6:00 position) but the greater majority of the diamond is exhibiting strong to intense light return which far outweighs the minor areas of weaker light return.
BrillianceScope Results
Before we begin analyzing the BrillianceScope results it is important to note that each diamond shape has it's own respective scale. Rounds have their own scale, squares their own, marquise, pear and so on. Each shape is compared to others within their respective shape.
We can however compare the results of any shape to the most brilliant rounds and do a comparison. Only certain H&A rounds score the highest among all the shapes. To give you some examples of how squares compare to rounds in the grand scheme of things here is a top scoring princess cut on the "square scale". A "High/Very High/Very High is a coveted result via the BrillianceScope but there's a bit more you should know as we observe these results.
Here is the same stone on the scale for rounds.
Here's another. A triple Very High princess cut.
Here are the results of the same diamond on the round scale. 
Now don't get me wrong. Among the world of princess cuts these are two top of the line princess cuts with regards to their optics. The one factor I want to point out here is that a triple very high princess cut is NOT THE SAME AS A TRIPLE VERY HIGH JUBILEE. Why?
Here is the Jubilee on the scale for squares ...
NOW LOOK AT THIS ON THE SCALE FOR ROUNDS!!! BOINK!
TALK ABOUT RARE OPTICAL RESULTS!!!
The Spread Factor, Size and Pricing in the Grand Scheme of Things
While the features we have covered so far were enough to make me do cartwheels here in our lab this next point is perhaps one of the most important to consider. Follow me here as we put 2 and 2 together.
All Jubilee's cut will have depths in the mid to low 6x range making them comparable in spread to an ideal cut round!!! Here is a picture of a .64ct Jubilee next to a .63ct ideal cut round. BOINK! You're not losing the *size* you typically would in a square brilliant cut.
Now here is a picture of that same Jubilee next to a typical princess cut.
When we take the spread factor into account you are getting considerably more diameter for the money in a Jubilee even though a Jubilee costs more per carat than a princess. What this means in the grand scheme of things is this.
If a person is in the market for a 1ct sized square, your typical square shaped 1ct sized stones (like princess cuts) have approximately a 5.5mm diameter when measured side to side. Let's say for example that the diamond is a G color VS2 clarity. A G VS2 1ct princess cut (depending on where you shop) cost in the range of approx. $4500 -$4600 (street value). So when you get down to the brass tacks of it you're paying $4600 for a 5.5mm diamond whose optics at best are questionable. To acheive the 5.5mm spread in a Jubilee you can GET A JUBILEE IN THE .8XCT range!!! A .85ct G VS2 Jubilee costs $4200 ($300-$400) less than the princess cut, you are achieving the 5.5mm diameter in size and getting far superior optics FOR LESS MONEY (in this circumstance).
Here's another example of an actual princess cut we had sold.
http://www.goodoldgold.com/princess_1_08ct_f_vs2.htm
It's measurements via the GIA Report are 5.61 x 5.58 x 4.02mm giving the stone a 72.0% total depth. One of the first Jubilee's to come in is a .90ct (I SI1) which has a diameter of 5.61 x 5.66 (slightly larger in diameter than this 1.08ct princess cut). The princess cut sold for $5427. A .90ct F VS2 Jubilee costs $5742. You are getting the same sized diamond but with H&A optics and the difference in this circumstance is only $315. Is it worth it? YOU BET IT IS and this is what thrills us most concerning this new cut. Bottom line ... when you compare these two stones side by side in a ring you will not see the difference in the weight but YOU WILL see the difference in brilliance.
If you have any further questions don't hesitate to email us at [email protected] with your questions.
Warm regards,
Jonathan
aka Rhino
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