Everyone, thank you for your kind compliments.
Gailey, more info: The rough crystal weighed 30.12 cts. It was cut by a multiple AGTA (American Gem Trade Association) Cutting Edge winner, and not any of the 8 or so cutters mentioned often on this board. It won’t adorn Mrs. Z’s neck, since she won’t wear what she has now (including a top Burmese ruby wedding ring). She keeps them all in a dark bank vault for safekeeping. The aqua will be kept loose and fondled regularly by me, as part of my cut and un-mounted collection.
It is interesting that you noticed the step cut. Most pear cuts are modified round brilliant cuts. These cuts feature very long, narrow triangular facets on the bottom, and on the wider top, much wider triangular and kite shaped facets. So in a sense, these facets don’t line up, top to bottom. This is very handy for covering inclusions that are eye visible, but very difficult to see.
In a step cut, there are very large, rectangular facets, and the top and bottom facets perfectly overlie each other. This demands that the crystal be absolutely flawless, for this cut to work.
Harriet, Chrono: Most gem crystals have no defined exterior faces and just look like broken glass. Other crystals have excellent outer faces, but are full of inclusions, and are not facet grade. These specimen crystals may not be very expensive. There are some rare few crystals with excellent exterior faces that are facet grade, like my 405 ct aquamarine here, first page:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-rough.108836/
I find my crystals at rough gem dealers in Tucson. You just have to look at a large number of crystals.
TL, if the aquamarines in that bracelet really are that saturated when viewing in person, then they tower head and shoulders above any aquamarine I have ever seen. They look more like Kashmir sapphires than aquamarines. But I think that is Photoshop, or radically underexposed slide film. That style is Art Deco, and I’ve seen many bracelets and necklaces like that, in person, at Sotheby’s. They were never even close to that color saturation. And those cut aquas were in the 30 to 50 ct size for each stone in the finished neckace.
I shoot my pictures with an expensive Canon digital camera, in Canon Raw, not jpeg. In Raw, after the picture is taken, I can change the white balance, contrast, saturation, and exposure, to force the picture to very closely match the actual stone. I don’t just print the camera’s initial output. Then I hold the gem next to my computer monitor, and tune the color on my screen in Photoshop, to match the gem in my hand.
Most people use Photoshop to pump up the color saturation to make the gem more salable! I take the camera output, and turn down the saturation to match the actual gem.
Moviezombie, Ltlfirecracker: No, as I view the finished gem, I definitely didn’t overpay. But it easily could have happened, the gem could have finished much more pale. As it was, there were inclusions on the side and rounded end, that forced the finished pear to be smaller than I expected. Since width to depth ratios must be within a certain range, that forced cutting away large amounts of perfectly clear, color deepening material from the top (the crystal was excessively deep). I can only guess the depth of color if those inclusions weren’t there.
I have one hyper expensive 80 ct facet grade tanzanite crystal that needs to be cut. And one facet grade 115 ct Pakistan topaz crystal with such perfect terminations, that it will not be cut.
After the tanzanite, I will quit on expensive crystals while I’m ahead. I’ve been badly burned with 3 total losses, trying to get top tsavorite color. Buying specimen grade crystals is another matter, but buying facet grade material should only be done by a cutter, or someone closely working with a cutter. You need to see many rough crystals before and after, to get a feel for how a rough crystal will transform into a desirable finished gem.