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Ideal cut emerald cuts at Brian Gavin

OoohShiny

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OoohShiny

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diamondseeker2006

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I like the ratios and I extremely prefer the tables under 60! So these are so great to see! They just need a bunch more above 2 cts!

My only negative on this is that the 5 or 6 stones that I looked at all had two dark lines face up on the brilliance video, and they show up as wide blue vertical stripes near the center on the ASETs. I wonder if they can do something to eliminate that? I wish Karl could comment on the ASETs but I am guessing he can't since the vendor is identified.
 

kenny

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Awesome!!!!
It's about time!

I love emerald cuts, but have avoided buying one because even after reading PS for 12 years I'm still mystified about how get one with optimum light performance.
Even how posters 'read' ASET images reveals many conflicting opinions.

Kudos to you, Mr. Gavin!
 
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Matthews1127

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That's my preference 1.4 and higher, to be more elongated, although I still find the lower ranges attractive too! It's not like I'd kick one aside if given to me. Ha.
I’m a 1.4-1.6:1 l x w ratio girl. l agree, if a “squatty” EC was offered to me, I’d accept it; esp if it’s “ideal”. ;)2
 
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kenny

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Now if only August Vintage would do an antique EC...

I suspect there could be no such thing (unless they left the culet open or some other vintagey thing).

The EC is a very simple straightforward cut when it comes to shape and # of facets.
A rectangle of 4 sides, 2 longer than the other 2, but with chamfered corners to make 8 sides.
It's the exact placement and angles of the facets that optimizes (or not) the light return.

I welcome Karl, or others, to correct me if this is wrong.
 
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RetroTreeGal

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I suspect there could be no such thing (unless they left the culet open or some other vintagey thing).

The EC is a very simple straightforward cut when it comes to shape and # of facets.
A rectangle of 4 sides, 2 longer than the other 2, but with chamfered corners to make 8 sides.
It's the exact placement and angles of the facets that optimizes (or not) the light return.

I welcome Karl, or others, to correct me if this is wrong.
No, they would definitely have to only make one shape/ratio, and "magnify" it for larger carat weights. Still...the idea of an ideal cut EC with big chamfered corners and a culet? :roll2:
 

Karl_K

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The EC is a very simple straightforward cut when it comes to shape and # of facets.
A rectangle of 4 sides, 2 longer than the other 2, but with chamfered corners to make 8 sides.
It's the exact placement and angles of the facets that optimizes (or not) the light return.

I welcome Karl, or others, to correct me if this is wrong.
yes and no.
There are a lot of possible variations making it a bit more complex than that.
For example:
With step cuts there are many different patterns of light return/contrast possible besides the outside shape.
Each one could have top notch light return but not look like each other.
The patterns are controlled by angles and placement of the facets but you have to decide which pattern you want to target.

While 3 crown 4 pavilion tiers is less common with an EC than SE they are out there. Most are 3c/3p.

Once you have the design it only works without adjustment for a small range of l/w ratio and change the corner size and things change fast.
Securing the rough to make a large amount available within those narrow parameters is why I thought it would not be done.
That Brian appears to have over came that blows me away.
 

JDDN

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I suspect there could be no such thing (unless they left the culet open or some other vintagey thing).

The EC is a very simple straightforward cut when it comes to shape and # of facets.
A rectangle of 4 sides, 2 longer than the other 2, but with chamfered corners to make 8 sides.
It's the exact placement and angles of the facets that optimizes (or not) the light return.

I welcome Karl, or others, to correct me if this is wrong.


Here's an example of an 'antique' style emerald cut stone:

http://gemconcepts.net/boutique/two-pairs-elongated-emerald-cut-diamonds/

upload_2017-11-14_17-59-2.png
 

oldminer

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From the later 1990's until final revisions were made in 2004, my own prediction of best and less well cut diamonds emerald cuts is attached. 1A is where I thought they would exist, but no one was cutting any. It has been a long time coming. One more good bit of consumer news.
 

Attachments

  • Emerald cut chart from 2004.pdf
    14.9 KB · Views: 70

OoohShiny

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Now if only August Vintage would do an antique EC...

I suspect there could be no such thing (unless they left the culet open or some other vintagey thing).

The EC is a very simple straightforward cut when it comes to shape and # of facets.
A rectangle of 4 sides, 2 longer than the other 2, but with chamfered corners to make 8 sides.
It's the exact placement and angles of the facets that optimizes (or not) the light return.

I welcome Karl, or others, to correct me if this is wrong.

No, they would definitely have to only make one shape/ratio, and "magnify" it for larger carat weights. Still...the idea of an ideal cut EC with big chamfered corners and a culet? :roll2:


Here's an example of an 'antique' style emerald cut stone:

http://gemconcepts.net/boutique/two-pairs-elongated-emerald-cut-diamonds/

upload_2017-11-14_17-59-2.png

I was going to say - @diagem is already on the case! :)

http://gemconcepts.net/old-emerald-cut-diamond/
 

Todd Gray

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I like the ratios and I extremely prefer the tables under 60! So these are so great to see! They just need a bunch more above 2 cts!

My only negative on this is that the 5 or 6 stones that I looked at all had two dark lines face up on the brilliance video, and they show up as wide blue vertical stripes near the center on the ASETs. I wonder if they can do something to eliminate that? I wish Karl could comment on the ASETs but I am guessing he can't since the vendor is identified.

ASET for Emerald Cuts is different than ASET for rounds, in that regard each shape has its own characteristics. The color blue represents contrast in an ASET Scope image and contrast creates depth of field which can make a diamond even more beautiful. Strong contrast within the pavilion main facets in a round diamond is desirable because it creates contrast brilliance which makes the diamond appear to be sparkling under fluorescent lighting which is devoid of UV light.

The dark color of the pavilion mains is because they are reflecting the dark color of the camera lens used to photograph them. Experienced diamond buyers know that the pavilion main facets will not be dark when they view the diamond in real life unless their head is blocking the light from overhead and positioned just right to create the same effect as the camera lens.

That contrast in rounds appears right in the middle of the diamond under the table facet. So, why should there not be contrast under the table facet of an emerald cut diamond? If an emerald cut diamond lacks contrast, it will be no more impressive than looking across a tile floor which only consists of white tiles.

The contrast that appears to be blue in an ASET Scope image, because the blue section at the top of the diamond serves to mimic the effect of our head blocking the sun at it's highest point during the day, appears black in a clarity photograph or video. A little contrast in the middle of the diamond makes the diamond appear more lively, as it does along the edge of an emerald cut diamond. Thus a little bit of blue or black here and there is a good thing.

Just as there is a variety of proportions combinations that produce desirable light performance in round diamonds and other shapes, there is a variety of proportions that yield higher than average LP in emerald cut diamonds. Unfortunately, it is not as cut and dry as it is with round brilliant cut diamonds, because the facet structure is not as symmetrical, but rather is a mix of long and short straight facets. Don't drive yourselves crazy trying to figure out the magic formula, it's easier to let the AGSL sort that all out using ASET.

I think the point is that there is a wide variety of light performance to be found in diamonds of all shapes. But when it comes to emerald cut diamonds, would you prefer the light performance of the $5,000.00 diamond on the left, or the $34 million dollar diamond on the right?

which-emerald-cut-diamond-looks-brighter.jpg
Which emerald cut diamond looks brighter? Which emerald cut diamond do you think is going to produce the best light performance? Notice that I'm not referencing the brand for either of these emerald cut diamonds, I'm only asking for your opinion as to which one looks prettier. How do you think that big black swatch across the table facet of the diamond on the right is going to look in diffused lighting?

BTW: If anybody wants to give me the $34 million dollar emerald cut diamond pictured on the right, I will happily accept it and then have it recut :dance:
 
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