I hope you'll say it's nice: I love this ring

[PreRaphaelite]

Hello PS friends.
I'm new here and this is my first post. I'm sharing some photos of a ring I was given, in hopes that it will 'pass muster' with the keen eyes you have here, and in hopes you can give some advice about what to do next.

It was bought on eBay, and the seller (Mel's Antique Jewelry) described the ring as "an original antique Art Nouveau circa 1910; unmarked but handmade from 18K rose gold, set with an OMC of I color, SI3 of approximately .90 ctw with an average diameter of 5.84 mm and 3.96 mm deep; also set with a natural unblemished pearl of 5.8 mm." Having said that, Danielle Miele of Gem Gossip thought it was an OEC... and of course, I have no idea.

Background info before I ask any questions: I love the setting and the pearl and the diamond's cut (I don't enjoy modern cuts.) I am an antique-y kind of girl, I live in a old cottage, and basically I live a small life. A large modern stone would be wasted on me. I do dishes, and cook, and do laundry, and garden. That's my life. Therefore an old stone with 'issues' is a nice match for me and I'm not disappointed in this gift!

Here's my question: the stone is pretty beat-up on one side, has a bearded girdle and chips etc. I'm worried about it being damaged further, so I'm leaning toward resetting it into a pendant and replacing the empty basket with an opal or peridot or moonstone (not that they are ideal for everyday wear but that they are fairly appropriate for the Art Nouveau style and not terribly expensive). Do you all think that's a good decision? If not, can you help me decide what to do? I'm not sure the stone is even worth paying for an appraisal unless that's part of the resetting strategy, but I've been wearing the ring a lot and sometimes I worry that I'm hurting it.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts, and especially for being gentle with me, as I'm a newbie.
Katherine

 

[Lookinagain]

I really can't help with your questions, but I wanted to tell you that I love your ring. If there is anyway to get the diamond repolished and then kept in the ring, that is what I would do. It's a great setting.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

I think your idea is great! Moonstone would be my choice for your current setting and I would reset your diamond into a bezel to protect it from further damage. You should probably have an appraisal done so you can insure the piece in case of damage. Since it would only be for insurance the jeweler who does the setting may be able to provide you with one. We have several vendors here who primarily work with vintage and antique diamonds, Jewels by Grace, Love Affair Diamonds, and CVB are the ones I normally think of.

 

[maccers]

That's a lovely ring, I think that style is called "toi et moi"?

Personally, I would want to keep the stone in the ring. Maybe rehab the stone (you'll need to get a professional opinion first) and plop it back in there. It belongs in that setting.

You mentioned cooking, cleaning, washing etc...are you planning on wearing the ring for all these activities? I'm concerned for the diamond AND the pearl! Personally I take my rings off for these activities.

As for OMC or OEC, the culet is on the large side and has a teeny tiny table which makes me think OMC but it appears quite round (OEC) - maybe it's an in-betweener. We'd need a face on shot to get a better idea.

 

[Rena7]

I'm really not an expert, but I just wanted to say that it is a lovely ring.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Thanks for your replies - here's the closest thing to a face-shot I have.

I also posted an outline done on a rolled piece of paper, to show the asymmetrical band (I wanted to see if it was really handmade as the seller stated). The two sides of the shank don't match but if they did, it might have been just made from a mold? Oh well, just my thought.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

That is a gorgeous ring, but the pearl is much more fragile than the diamond. It is not an everyday ring. I absolutely would not keep it with the idea of removing the diamond. Then it is not original and really loses it's appeal to me. You have to treat a ring with a pearl with extra special care, so the diamond is a lot more tough than the pearl. The diamond is basically I1 clarity, so you really just have to decide if you really want a ring with a diamond in that condition and clarity. It looks really pretty in the ring, but I would not be buying that ring for the diamond to reset at all.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

That is a gorgeous ring, but the pearl is much more fragile than the diamond. It is not an everyday ring. I absolutely would not keep it with the idea of removing the diamond. Then it is not original and really loses it's appeal to me. You have to treat a ring with a pearl with extra special care, so the diamond is a lot more tough than the pearl. The diamond is basically I1 clarity, so you really just have to decide if you really want a ring with a diamond in that condition and clarity. It looks really pretty in the ring, but I would not be buying that ring for the diamond to reset at all.

Thanks for your response. There's no question of whether to keep it or not; it was a gift from a dear friend and it's precious to me. I just wondered what you folks thought of the ring, and basically if I should try to prevent the stone from getting worse. Thanks for your opinions! I appreciate it!

 

[PreRaphaelite]

I think your idea is great! Moonstone would be my choice for your current setting and I would reset your diamond into a bezel to protect it from further damage. You should probably have an appraisal done so you can insure the piece in case of damage. Since it would only be for insurance the jeweler who does the setting may be able to provide you with one. We have several vendors here who primarily work with vintage and antique diamonds, Jewels by Grace, Love Affair Diamonds, and CVB are the ones I normally think of.

Thank you so much for your reply; it was incredibly helpful!

 

[RandG]

Very, very pretty!

It's very rare to find a stone of this age without some abrasions and/or chipping. Many traditionalists don't polish or re-cut old stones. It's a personal preference. When a dealer doesn't, there's usually a reason. In this case, it may have been to preserve weight to keep it as close to a carat as possible. Just a guess.

The question is whether there are more significant integrity issues at play, that you don't see. Without having someone independently validate the stone, it's a risk. Only you can decide if you're comfortable with the risk. You're buying an uncertified old mine brilliant, with damage. All fine. But goes to valuation as well.

Good luck! I hope it works for you. Your stone would look amazing and be well protected in a low and comfortable vintage bezel!

 

[EvangelineG]

What a lovely ring! I really like this style!

As DS said, I would be much more concerned about damage to the pearl than further damage to the diamond! Pearls can be damaged by exposure to chemicals (perfume, hairspray, cleaning chemicals), let alone badly dinged up by being smacked around. In order to preserve the pearl you must remove this ring for activities like cleaning, gardening, and even doing your hair and makeup, so if you are treating it gently enough for the pearl I would personally have zero worries about further damage to the diamond, and would just enjoy it as is.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Thanks for replying - can I ask you for your opinion on the pearl - it's sugarloaf shaped rather than round, which lends some credence to the "Natural Pearl" statement the seller made. Does that mean it is more valuable than a modern pearl? Do dealers sell replacement "Natural Pearls" any more?

I realize this is a tangential inquiry! Thanks for chiming back in if you'd like to!

 

[maccers]

As far as I know, handmade can mean many different things. It could be mold casted by then hand engraved, it could be handforged completely...I'm not sure how much it matters, the ring is beautiful and it sounds like it has sentimental value to you.

ETA: I asked a similar question once on PS. This was a response I got from a well respected appraiser:

Post by denverappraiser » 14 Jan 2013 06:48
Forging is where you hit a piece of metal with a steel hammer against an anvil to shape it. That’s a short description of what can be a very complicated process but it’s fundamentally different from casting, where a mold is made to accept molten metal. Most things being sold as forged pieces are a combination of both, where they forge from a cast piece or they assemble a finished design using both forged and cast parts.

‘Hand’ made is a much more problematic term. Obviously there are tools involved and the question becomes how complicated a tool is acceptable. A hammer is ok, a robotic stamp press is not (that’s the way they make doorknobs and car doors and, as far as I know, no one claims these things are ‘handmade’). I’ve never seen a good definition of the line here and the manufactures take quite a bit of leeway when they call things handmade, hand assembled, hand forged, hand set, hand crafted, etc. At the end of the day, ask THEM what they mean by it. Some will be very precise in their answer and others it’ll be pure puffery.

Interestingly, in diamonds I’ve seen the opposite. Things get promoted as ‘machine cut’. Presumably this is to indicate that the ‘hand’ has been removed from the process and that’s a good thing. It’s identical malarkey but the other direction. Of course there are machines involved and of course there are humans involved. The difference seems to be largely in the way they’re advertised.

Neil Beaty GG(GIA) ICGA(AGS) NAJA
Independent Certified Gemologist Appraiser
www.americangemregistry.com

 

[maccers]

Thanks for replying - can I ask you for your opinion on the pearl - it's sugarloaf shaped rather than round, which lends some credence to the "Natural Pearl" statement the seller made. Does that mean it is more valuable than a modern pearl? Do dealers sell replacement "Natural Pearls" any more?

I realize this is a tangential inquiry! Thanks for chiming back in if you'd like to!

You could also ask PSers in the 'Pearl' section of this forum...they're extremely knowledgeable and may not see your post here.

 

[junebug17]

It's gorgeous, I love it! Yeah, it's pretty common for these old cuts to have chips and abrasions, they've been around for a long time! My feeling is to leave the ring as is and just be careful with it. As others have said, pearls are delicate and not really made to be worn all the time. I think if you are careful about how you wear it, it will hold up just fine. I don't wear my rings all the time, I want to avoid risk of damage so I take them off when doing housework and activities where I'm using my hands a lot. What a special and beautiful gift!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

What a lovely gift! I think in the case of both the pearl and the diamond, you just have to treat this as a special occasion piece that you might wear out to dinner or to a party, etc. It is not an everyday ring and will need special care. You cannot put it in most jewerly cleaner. It will be tricky but you'll have to clean the diamond without touching the pearl.'There is no reason to reset the stone as far as I can see. Eight prongs should be good to keep it secure.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Everyone here has given such great replies! Thank you so much for helping me understand. I've been concentrating on worrying about the stone and sadly ignoring the pearl. No longer! Now I am worried about both. Ack!

I found an antique 14k pocket watch clip on Etsy, and I've been using it as a fast and easy way to stash the ring while I'm doing chores. It's effective (and cute) as a temporary thing. Just thought I'd share.

 

[Asscherhalo_lover]

That's very cute! As for the pearl it may just be a "mabe" pearl, I have a ring from James Meyer with a pearl that's "half round", they make for better rings IMO. Pearls do eventually show wear and can always be replaced if need be. That's the risk of a pearl in a ring.

 

[swingirl]

Your ring is very pretty but I would not consider it appropriate to do gardening or general housework in due to the pearl. Actually NO ring should be worn for gardening because the grit will scratch and wear down the metal prongs and engraving. (not to mention what it would do to the pearl).

Personally I like to keep antiques intact unless it's something that was bought for just the parts.

 

[Siameseroo]

Your ring is unique and beautiful, I love it just as it is. To echo the posts before me, I would just be careful with it and remove it when gardening, doing the dishes etc. Congratulations!

PS your antique pocket watch clip/ring holder is awesome. I want one!

 

[momhappy]

It's pretty, but as others have mentioned, pearls are not meant for everyday wear. If you're worried about damage, I would consider wearing it less frequently - maybe save it for evenings out or special occasions?

 

[EvangelineG]

Everyone here has given such great replies! Thank you so much for helping me understand. I've been concentrating on worrying about the stone and sadly ignoring the pearl. No longer! Now I am worried about both. Ack!

I found an antique 14k pocket watch clip on Etsy, and I've been using it as a fast and easy way to stash the ring while I'm doing chores. It's effective (and cute) as a temporary thing. Just thought I'd share.

This is a great idea! And it looks lovely on the chain.

If it is indeed a natural pearl, as in formed without any intervention from man, then it is more rare and valuable than the cultured pearls which make up almost all of today's pearl market. You may want to get it appraised to find out, not that value matters for a treasured gift, but it would be good to know for insurance/replacement purposes. I wonder if it is the piece's original pearl? It may have been replaced at some point, considering the damage to the diamond, but the pearl appearing to be in excellent shape?

FYI my e-ring is diamond only, and newly cut diamonds without any potential girdle fragility issues, and I still take it off for cooking, cleaning, showering, sleeping etc. PS has taught me that it's just good practice for any ring that you want to minimize wear and risk of damage to, let alone with antiques, soft/brittle gems or pearls where it becomes even more important to use care.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Good morning PS friends,
I just wanted to say 'thank you' again for all your expertise and opinions and suggestions. It really means the world to me that everyone was so nice and had so many keen insights on what to do. At this point, I'm going to look for an appraiser and cross my fingers (hoping my dear friend who bought this didn't get 'taken for a ride' by the seller). Depending on the appraiser's opinion of the stone, I'll either keep wearing it on the pocketwatch clip, or back on my finger. Thank you so much again for all your input, it really make such a difference for me!

 

[RandG]

It's a beautiful ring, and stone. It's better to know what you have and how to best accommodate it. I think you're making the prudent decision. Good luck!

 

[missy]

Just wanted to say I think your ring and stone is gorgeous! And I also love Melony. She is a doll and she has the most gorgeous jewelry. I have my favorite earrings from her. Enjoy your new piece in health and happiness.

 

[PreRaphaelite]

Hi Missy,
Then we are jewellery sisters! Would you care to share a photo of your earrings?

I don't know Mel personally but my friend had only nice things to say. I've been subscribed to her boards on Pinterest and it is so much fun looking at all that eye candy!
Have a great day.

 

[retrogamer]

Cool piece! Unique too

 

[missy]

Hi Missy,
Then we are jewellery sisters! Would you care to share a photo of your earrings?

I don't know Mel personally but my friend had only nice things to say. I've been subscribed to her boards on Pinterest and it is so much fun looking at all that eye candy!
Have a great day.

Sure, my pleasure. Have you made any decisions re this gorgeous ring yet?
Here you go. First pic is not accurate re the color. They are much more red IRL. Last one is an earshot though blurry I included it so you can see how it looks in action.

Good luck with your decision. I really love that ring as is...

 

[tyty333]

Everyone here has given such great replies! Thank you so much for helping me understand. I've been concentrating on worrying about the stone and sadly ignoring the pearl. No longer! Now I am worried about both. Ack!

I found an antique 14k pocket watch clip on Etsy, and I've been using it as a fast and easy way to stash the ring while I'm doing chores. It's effective (and cute) as a temporary thing. Just thought I'd share.

I love the clip you found...it looks old and consistent with the ring. Really pretty!

 

[PreRaphaelite]

I really love that ring as is...

Missy, your earrings are stunning! Absolutely gorgeous! And I would love to keep the ring original. I'm just scared that it'll break :-/