i have my dream sapphire -- now i need to set it!!!

[slksapphire]

if you're interested, see the post "my dream sapphire - FOUND" for the rather interesting story behind my gemstone search ...

here it is:


now i need to get it set! ideally i would have taken the stone to leon mege, but it looks like shipping/insurance will cost me $4000+. i could wait until i am in new york this summer, but i really want to wear the ring. so i am working with a local jeweler in hong kong recommended by richard hughes. ultimately, if i am uncomfortable with the jeweler i will just wait (with the stone burning a hole in my pocket) but i'd much rather move forward.

i was thinking of a setting like this from harry winston, with 2 longer bullets on each side to emphasize the flashes of blue:


i am back to being a newbie (albeit with settings), so please indulge my silly questions:

1. how hard is it is get high-quality, very delicate double claws made by someone other than leon, vc, sk, etc?
2. should each claw cover a corner of the gem or should they be placed slightly inside?
3. are all custom settings hand-forged? if not, what do i need to worry about and what are the most important questions to ask?
4. are there differences in jewelry grade platinum and if so, what do i need to insist upon?
5. do i need to ask separate questions of the bench worker in addition to the jewelry designer?
6. anyone know about workmanship in hong kong generally?
7. what other issues should i be worried about? i am guessing i should get the stone insured before sending it to the jeweler ...

can't wait to share the ring with you when it's ready!!!

 

[maplefemme]

O...M...G
That is incredible! I'll let other more versed answer all of your questions, just HAD to comment on that stone, it's breathtakingly beautiful, congratulations!

 

[T L]

I just wanted to say that I LOVE LOVE LOVE that setting and I think it's perfect for your stone. As for your questions, I can't help that much, sorry! Good luck on your project, and I can't wait to see the finished result.

 

[Treenbean]

Love your sapphire, it is so beautiful. I answered in a different order
1. Custom settings can be hand forged or cast. Custom just means that the design is specific to your stone or design. A hand forged custom setting is a "hand made" process from start to finish. Usually consisting of a jeweler starting with casting grains of precious metal, melting them into a workable blob and continuing until the piece is a ring. The link below shows a step by step done by Victor Canera.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...ng-my-victor-canera-ring-from-scratch.155293/

2. Platinum is never pure it is mixed with iridium or ruthenium or cobalt. I own rings that are PT IR and I also have a Leon Mege that is PT with unknown other (anyone know what Leon uses?) The PT IR is a little more gray in my opinion. I don't think any of them are "wrong" but you might want to see what the metal looks like and determine which you prefer. Platinum oxidizes to a grayer color too, so hopefully that is something you like. https://www.pricescope.com/journal/overview_common_alloys_used_jewelry

3. I think if claw prongs were easy everyone would do them. Some people on PS have had pretty good success with bench people filing their prongs to a claw shape. There are some really talented people out there.

4. Those clipped corners on your gem are perfect for prongs. For the most security they would make an X if you drew an imaginary line. Are you going to wear your ring everyday? I also want to add this PS link where the OP compares LM, SK and VC and how they set their prongs.
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...my-victor-canera-sk-leon-ring-setting.166496/

5. I would ask to see the bench persons work.

Hope this helps

 

[Mike R]

7. what other issues should i be worried about? i am guessing i should get the stone insured before sending it to the jeweler ...

I would recommend getting this question answered first before you possibly waste your time with a local jeweller, jewellers working on gems owned by clients is not as common outside of the US so getting insurance for this situation outside of America can sometimes be difficult and costly.

Ask your insurance co and your local jewellers insurance co, make sure you can get coverage for damage and loss from one or the other, get the answers in writing so you have proof of what you were told.

Beautiful sapphire, good luck with the setting!

 

[chrono]

1. Remember, the more delicate, the riskier it is to get it broken/snagged. I've read enough cases of stones getting loose in the setting and/or prongs being bent. The primary concern should be to secure the stone. I love double claws personally but would not want them to be super delicate. There are some very beautiful and delicate claw prongs seen on PS that are not done by Leon, VC and etc but to some, those prongs may not be delicate enough. It is all a matter of preference and perspective (and money).

2. There are some where the double prongs have almost no gap at all and some where there is a huge gap. It depends on the size of the stone, the size of the corner and personal preference. I have not seen double prongs in a clipped cornered stone where each prong covers the pointy part.

3. Custom only means it was specially made in that specific design or specifications of the customer. It can be cast, hand forged or even a combination of both. Hand forged allows finer details to be done.

4. I'm not sure I understand this question but PT for settings come in various alloys in different concentrations as well. Treebean answered that well with the link.

5. Not necessarily. Sometimes the designer is also the bench but sometimes he/she isn't. If the two aren't the same, very often, the customer never meets the benchperson. That said, the details should already be spec-ed out enough that there is no miscommunication to the benchperson.

6. Sorry, but I am unfamiliar with workmanship in HK. I am very sure that just like anywhere else in the world, there are good bench and poor bench.

7. ABSOLUTELY! The stone has to be insured as the jeweller does not assume the risk of damage to the stone during the setting process.

 

[Deia]

1. how hard is it is get high-quality, very delicate double claws made by someone other than leon, vc, sk, etc? Depends. Maytal Hannnah does great work too, so does Diamonds by Lauren (their prongs are DELICIOUS!) I would totally send an email to DBL.
2. should each claw cover a corner of the gem or should they be placed slightly inside? I'm a little confused but the prongs should be on the cut corners of the stone
3. are all custom settings hand-forged? if not, what do i need to worry about and what are the most important questions to ask? It really comes down to whether you want 100% hand forged or not or if you are happy with hand assembled (i.e cast pieces put together - I think this is right??). They can both look wonderful, just depends on your wants and your budget.
4. are there differences in jewelry grade platinum and if so, what do i need to insist upon? 900 plat is teh most common I think, again it is a matter of preference for the most part, but go here for more info - http://www.mwmjewelry.com/platinum_purity.htm
5. do i need to ask separate questions of the bench worker in addition to the jewelry designer? If the jeweler/designer is not also the bench then most likely the jeweler will relay any comments/questions you have to the bench
6. anyone know about workmanship in hong kong generally? Can't help you there. I had a ring made by LizC Jewelry who is in SG, she mostly uses synthetics/simulants in her rings but I had her set my zircon. Her work is very good and I think she does claw prongs
7. what other issues should i be worried about? i am guessing i should get the stone insured before sending it to the jeweler ... Yes please get stone insured!!

 

[miraclesrule]

Your sapphire is gorgeous! I can't wait to see your final project.

 

[kt]

I think a couple of people here are fom HK,and I think fussykiki is one of them - she has had some beautiful pieces made by a jeweler she apparently does a lot of work with. Maybe you can do a shoutout to her and see if she can give you some names or contacts? Do a search for her and you can also see some of her pieces she's posted.

 

[fussykiki]

Hi, regarding jewelers in HK, their quality/craftsmanship really vary. I have tried a few and some are quite disappointing.

I can recommend two jewelers to you which I have happy experience with. One did my ering which is in platinum and one did my tourmaline set which is in white gold. Btw, the tourmaline set is double claw. You can check out my threads.

Will look for address and contact number tomorrow, left the business cards in office.

 

[LD]

Whilst the ring in the photo below is one of the most beautiful sapphires I've ever seen, I can't help feeling that this ring should never be worn. One knock of the finger and the corner will be off before you can blink! This is definitely a "keep on display" ring rather than "one to be worn".

Your sapphire is beautiful but please please please choose prongs that protect your stone. Although sapphires are relatively durable, absolutely no gemstone is immune to chipping, cracking etc. I love the stepped design you showed and the double claw prongs are lovely but they honestly are not practical for an every day ring. The pointy claws get caught on everything and this means they lift up - it can happen quite quickly. Yes, they're beautiful to look at (and they're my preferred "look") BUT for an important purchase they may not give the durability/stability you really need.

 

[Starzin]

Beautiful inspiration piece and I think your gorgeous sapphire would look stunning in it.

As to the questions...I think you've had very good advice already.

 

[slksapphire]

now i am really worried about the double claw prongs given the cautions by chrono and ld -- i believe chrono, your e-ring had the same prongs. have you had issues with them?

while i want a beautiful ring, my first priority is to protect the stone. and my intention is to wear it every day -- probably not to sleep or in the shower or doing dishes, but nonetheless many hours (rather than a cocktail ring).

would you caution against any/all double claw prongs, or just delicate ones? i searched the archives and have not seen any complaints about harry winston/leon/vc/sk. it is an issue of workmanship or the fundamental design?

finally, if not double claw prongs, what would you recommend for the center stone? thanks much ...

 

[Treenbean]

As a nurse I have a lot of hand wear and tear. Wash, gloves on and off etc. I have a double claw prong LM e-ring and I wear it every day. I get the prongs checked by a jeweler periodically and I loupe them myself sometimes. I haven't had an issue yet.
How about turn of the century Cartier or Graff prongs?

 

[minousbijoux]

Wow, Treenbean, those are lovely rings with lovely prongs.

 

[Treenbean]

Minous: They are very classy rich looking and maybe more protective? I like em. BTW I love the little dog is your avatar is it a French bully?

 

[minousbijoux]

BTW I love the little dog is your avatar is it a French bully?

I have such mixed feelings about this guy in my avatar. I have fallen head over heels in love. My son brought home this lost, dirty, sick and cut up adolescent pit bull - really a puppy still. We already have two dogs and do not have room for him. My son is in a rough spot and is in recovery for chemical dependency. He had pretty much given up on high school and was living a pretty lonely, dreary life. This dog who eats anything and everything, is young and confused and marks in the house (uughh!), wants to be cuddled but doesn't know how to ask for it, changed a lot. The dog is timid and needed someone's constant love. My son needed someone who would love him unconditionally - believe me, it has been hard for me to provide that recently. So what started as a "foster" situation has lasted for 3 months. He has all his shots and is in good health now. His wounds are healing. Believe me, I have read and heard all the horror stories about pit bulls and never in a million years thought I would allow one in my house (sorry to all of you who have happy, normal pitties). In a case of poor teenage judgement, my son has decided to name him Killer in what he believes is the ultimate irony since the dog is a follower and mild as can be.
So that is the story of my avatar. He is never without a sock in his mouth, as you can see in the photo. Thank you for asking, Treenbean, and sorry for the threadjack, SS.

 

[Treenbean]

My apologies for the threadjack as well.

Some of my greatest loves and losses in my life were canine. I'm sorry for everything that is happing, but I'm sure "Killer" is glad to have you. Thank you for sharing.

 

[Mike R]

now i am really worried about the double claw prongs given the cautions by chrono and ld -- i believe chrono, your e-ring had the same prongs. have you had issues with them?

while i want a beautiful ring, my first priority is to protect the stone. and my intention is to wear it every day -- probably not to sleep or in the shower or doing dishes, but nonetheless many hours (rather than a cocktail ring).

would you caution against any/all double claw prongs, or just delicate ones? i searched the archives and have not seen any complaints about harry winston/leon/vc/sk. it is an issue of workmanship or the fundamental design?

finally, if not double claw prongs, what would you recommend for the center stone? thanks much ...

I dont think you need to be worried but you should do some simple things to look after your soon to be ring, I would advice against wearing any piece of jewelry 24/7 or you will do damage to the piece.

I don't want to scare you but I think these pictures may help inspire you not to wear your beautiful sapphire 24/7, these are a couple of pictures of what can happen to a sapphire (or any gem) worn 24/7 after just a few years, you will notice the platinum prongs and diamonds are fine but the sapphire is showing a lot of wear.

Note: I did not make this ring or sale the sapphire.

 

[slksapphire]

MikeR, could the damage to that sapphire possibly be from normal everyday wear-and-tear? if so, i can see why diamonds are used most frequently as e-rings!!!

i have worn my diamond solitaire e-ring and eternity band daily (and nightly) for almost 12 years. in fact, i have NEVER taken them off except when my children were born and the hospital prohibited jewelry. and my rings look as good today as when i started wearing them. i don't particularly baby my rings although i am not rough on them either.

 

[slksapphire]

Treebean: thanks for the 2 setting ideas ... i like 'em and think they would complement my stone. good ideas to take to the jeweler ...

 

[Starzin]

I don't want to scare you but I think these pictures may help inspire you NOT to wear your beautiful sapphire 24/7(...)

My emphasis above. A perfect picture Mike, thanks. Unfortunately I've learned this lesson myself with a green tourmaline worn to work (office job) everyday for a few years None of my jewellery has ever been worn 24/7 but my poor tourmaline now has badly abraded facets (though not quite as bad as that sapphire I hasten to add). I realize now - but didn't then - that being a bit softer than a sapphire it really isn't an everyday ring.

 

[Treenbean]

It looks like she was refinishing kitchen cabinets and the sander got away from her!

 

[Starzin]

It looks like she was refinishing kitchen cabinets and the sander got away from her!

 

[Mike R]

MikeR, could the damage to that sapphire possibly be from normal everyday wear-and-tear? if so, i can see why diamonds are used most frequently as e-rings!!!

i have worn my diamond solitaire e-ring and eternity band daily (and nightly) for almost 12 years. in fact, i have NEVER taken them off except when my children were born and the hospital prohibited jewelry. and my rings look as good today as when i started wearing them. i don't particularly baby my rings although i am not rough on them either.

The owner of this ring says she isn't hard on her jewellery, she doesn't do any physical activities and she has a cleaner to do the housework. I'm really not sure what is causing the damage but it is not uncommon to see rings like this, only it is normally after twenty or thirty years of wear.

Again I don't want to scare anyone, I just want people to remember these are precious little luxury items that are very special.
You wouldn't go off road driving in a Ferrari, you wouldn't wear a pair or Christian Louboutin's to go rock climbing and you shouldn't wear fine jewellery 24/7

I'm sure with with a little respect you will have no problems with your sapphire in a well made ring.

 

[slksapphire]

Mike,

Great advice ... I was planning to wear my new ring like my e-ring but will now be much more careful with it ...

 

[0-0-0]

Somehow I missed this thread. Thanks for the pictures Mike R!

 

[Mike R]

Somehow I missed this thread. Thanks for the pictures Mike R!

No problem, I find them very helpful while explaining that jewelry is a luxury object that should ideally be worn with care and respect.

Accidents do happen though, the owner of this ring was back instore recently and she had successfully had the Sapphire re polished

 

[chrono]

Mike,
I don't get how the sapphire is so badly scuffed up if she doesn't do housework and etc with it on. I've read about how a few lapidaries' wives wear much softer stones like tourmaline and zircon that show absolutely no wear and tear.

 

[innerkitten]

Maybe she has very active children, or sends a lot of time at the beach in the sand.