How to set a big "trinity hexagon" from Uli or Ulli

[boerumbiddy]

(I have seen his name spelled both ways on this forum.)
I am very excited about this humongous umbalite, 9.21 carats, and am thinking about a pendant. What do you think, bezel or prongs?

DanielM is already working on a pearl-studded yellow-gold frame for a pendant for my new Preloved zircon.


This forum should come with a warning about being habit-forming and hazardous to your pocketbook, though each individual hit has still stayed in three figures.

 

[chrono]

He signs off as Uli in his emails so I thought Uli is the correct spelling.

As for your umballite, does it darken when you cup the stone? If it doesn't, bezel setting it will outline the unique shape. However, the very different crown facets will make it very challenging to bezel set it. I am sure it is doable but a prong setting will be an easier task.

I think the stone is quite deep though so the bench will need to design it such a fashion that the stone will be less prone to flipping. There's little you can do about how high it sits.

 

[boerumbiddy]

Yes, he is definitely Uli (and a very nice fellow and dedicated artist) but I included the other spelling in case somebody is searching for him with the wrong spelling.
It is a deep stone and does darken when cupped, as you so astutely suggest. Setting it is indeed going to be a bit of a puzzle....

 

[T L]

Uli has very sharp cutlets, and if you are going to do a pendant with such a large stone, I would probably make sure there is a piece of metal under the cutlet, in whatever basket design you choose, to not only protect the stone, but to protect your neck.

I wouldn't bezel it, and you might want to do prongs along the edges instead of the points. That will better retain the artistry of the shape I think. Since it's a pendant, it's unlikely to get damaged by knocking the corners, which would not have prongs protecting them.

I indicated where I would put the prongs, and since it is a large stone, you may want double prongs on those three spots for added strength.

 

[sonyachancs]

such a beautiful stone!

I would agree with the prongs (and TL's minimal ones) if only so you can see more of the unique stone. I see so little of Uli's work on PS (esecially set), and all his stones have this Marvel-comic type quality to them. I'm really hoping to get a pair of stones to help complete my wedidng set!

good luck with the setting!

This forum should come with a warning about being habit-forming and hazardous to your pocketbook, though each individual hit has still stayed in three figures.

hear, hear! my love for PS is scaring my partner too

 

[boerumbiddy]

TL, you are so right about the culet! The stone is also very deep, almost the shape of a cartoon diamond, and quite remarkable looking.
Uli is justifiably proud, and says it is one of the best garnets he has ever had, and also called it the largest he has cut, but I think maybe he meant just among umbalites. He wants to see it when it is set, as do I, of course. I think you are right about placing the prongs on the long edges.

 

[JewelFreak]

His stones are endlessly fascinating. I've always wanted one but setting them is a challenge. TL's suggestion is good -- I also think bezeling would darken it too much. I'm excited for you -- it'll make such a unique pendant & if there's anyone who doesn't comment when you wear it, they'll be an oaf! Uli has an octagon heliodor I'd love to have, but it's too much for me while I'm conserving my dinero for something special, grump.

Can you take some photos of it in hand for us? Would love to see them!

--- Laurie

 

[chrono]

I like TL's idea and would go with double prongs suggestion due to the size of the stone. If not, you can do 6 prongs too.

 

[Lady_Disdain]

His stones are endlessly fascinating. I've always wanted one but setting them is a challenge. TL's suggestion is good -- I also think bezeling would darken it too much. I'm excited for you -- it'll make such a unique pendant & if there's anyone who doesn't comment when you wear it, they'll be an oaf! Uli has an octagon heliodor I'd love to have, but it's too much for me while I'm conserving my dinero for something special, grump.

Can you take some photos of it in hand for us? Would love to see them!

--- Laurie

Laurie, the liquid flower cut can be easily be bezeled. Yes, it still requires a custom setting but it is a very straight forward one. The Tudor Kaleidoscope, I believe, has a standard hexagon outline and it should be easier to set as well.

 

[boerumbiddy]

Thanks for all the interest. Will definitely post results! But I am waiting until the zircon setting is done and paid for first. As for hand shots, if you look at the rather poor one that is my avatar, you will understand my reluctance even to try at this point. I need better equipment and a steadier hand.

 

[Divad]

Here's another vote for TL's suggestion of double prongs on the three low edges. Bonus points if the tips of the prongs are bezeled in the same shape as the three high edges.

 

[jstarfireb]

This is a little bit against the grain, but I think with a skilled jeweler, a bezel would be absolutely stunning. When done right, bezels can accentuate unusual shapes rather than hide them. It needs to be even and sharp. And as much as I love Daniel M, I don't think his bezels are quite fine enough for this type of task. That said, there's one reason I wouldn't bezel this stone - and that's because bezels tend to darken stones, and this is already pretty dark to begin with. Here's some more food for thought: with the prong placements that have been proposed, I worry that the sharp corners will be exposed and prone to chipping. Although that's probably not a big issue with a pendant.

 

[chrono]

I would love to see this one in a very open bezel set by a super skilled jeweller who specializes in bezels for the same reason jstarfireb suggested. It will be stunning to see the outline enhanced. Just the very edge of the stone will be bezeled but the sides and most of the back will be completely open except for the necessary support needed. It will look almost like a cross between an open wire basket except that instead of prongs, there is a thin rim of metal holding the stone. This way, the setting allows the maximum amount of light through, barely changing the tone of the stone.

 

[T L]

I would love to see this one in a very open bezel set by a super skilled jeweller who specializes in bezels for the same reason jstarfireb suggested.

Yes, that would be great, but the jeweler must be very skilled otherwise, it could make or break the look of the piece. Prongs are probably the most cost effective.