How much does a setting influence diamond performance?

[MarionC]

Hi Everyone.
Maybe this topic has been addressed before?

I had my asscher setting thinned down and engraved and am now experiencing an enhanced performance more like the stone looked when it was loose.
At first I thought the bench that did the work had somehow “super cleaned” it, but weeks later the stone continues to be optimally bright and exibits high performance even when not pristinely clean. What’s going on here? Am I delusional? Lol

 

[tyty333]

Oh, interesting...can you post photos of the before setting and after setting (so we can over-analyze)? I'm curious what changes might
have caused the increased performance.

 

[MarionC]

TYTY, LOL...to over analyzation. Right up my alley. I don’t think I can show the difference with photos, it’s probably more of a two-eyes perception, but I can post the setting before and after.
And...actually I am currently having my smaller asscher in a plain SK setting engraved as we speak, so I will have more data to over-analyze by the end of the week.
All I know is, if these settings are enhacing the stone, I want to know before I ever buy another setting!!

 

[Rubies-R-Me]

Wow! What a great "remodel" of your band. I love the vintage look engraving.. it really is harmonious with the shape of your stone. Beautiful!!!

 

[MarionC]

Wow! What a great "remodel" of your band. I love the vintage look engraving.. it really is harmonious with the shape of your stone. Beautiful!!!

Thank you! The diamond actually looks much better in it in real life for some reason.

 

[EC8]

Fabulous remodel .
Going by the photos, the shank/band on the original version was competing with the diamond as it was a large reflecting surface; with the engraving that has toned down the impact so that the focus is all on your diamond.

 

[Tekate]

I think that is true of all diamonds Jimmie. Seeing Bubbala in real life was truly an experience, nothing about that ring can be shown on screen. I don't about new settings because I think the lights and action from a diamond comes from light from above BUT that said, I've only been a member here for what? almost 7 years and I've read to learn everything. xo

Your asscher is magnificent and I do much more love the new setting, it certainly complements the stone much more.

Thank you! The diamond actually looks much better in it in real life for some reason.

 

[tyty333]

I agree @Jimmianne . If a setting can enhance a diamond (due to small details) I want to know. I wonder if its the setting not putting so much glare
off due to the engraving? Makes it more likely to concentrate on the stone??? (just realized that this is what @EC8 commented on) Nothing changed
in the basket or prong area, right?

Of course, your stone looks lovely in both the before and after so we're most likely not going to see the difference in the stone performance (I'll take
your word for it!)

 

[MarionC]

I agree @Jimmianne . If a setting can enhance a diamond (due to small details) I want to know. I wonder if its the setting not putting so much glare
off due to the engraving? Makes it more likely to concentrate on the stone??? (just realized that this is what @EC8 commented on) Nothing changed
in the basket or prong area, right?

Of course, your stone looks lovely in both the before and after so we're most likely not going to see the difference in the stone performance (I'll take
your word for it!)

Perhaps this is correct. Eyes are tricky and probably see things in a more complicated way than we know. Perhaps the engraving “mattes” the finish and causes less light interference to activate cones and rods so eye is drawn to the performance of the facets.

Some weird thing like that, because there definitely is a difference in what I’m seeing.

Oh...LOL also...I had cataract surgery at the same time my asscher had setting surgery. OMG LOL LOL
But I still think it’s more than that.

...talk about rabbit holes...

 

[Rockdiamond]

What a great question!!
There's ZERO doubt that a setting can totally change the look of a diamond.

It's also a great question because it highlights just how inappropriate the term "performance" is when we're judging beauty.
As an example- a bezel closes off the girdle of a diamond. There's no way this does not affect how the diamond reacts to certain lighting situations.
But a lot of people adore the way a bezel looks. For them, the "performance" is more about overall appearance and smoothness.
In your case @Jimmianne - the stone and ring look amazing IMO!! SO happy you've made changes that please you!!

 

[diamondhoarder]

Perhaps this is correct. Eyes are tricky and probably see things in a more complicated way than we know. Perhaps the engraving “mattes” the finish and causes less light interference to activate cones and rods so eye is drawn to the performance of the facets.

Some weird thing like that, because there definitely is a difference in what I’m seeing.

Oh...LOL also...I had cataract surgery at the same time my asscher had setting surgery. OMG LOL LOL
But I still think it’s more than that.

...talk about rabbit holes...

I can say for certain that settings can have a massive impact on diamond performance!

When I received my 2.1ct princess as a loose diamond a few years ago I was really wowed by its performance. Then I ordered a custom platinum setting for it from the diamond vendor (in another country) and had it sent to me so my local jeweller could set it.

Once it was set it never quite looked as bright and fiery as when it was loose. I spent ages cleaning it, but I ended up being a bit disappointed with the performance. Of course, once you start getting sucked in to the deliberations about cut quality on PS it can make all this seem 10 x worse

I ended up thinking I might need to have it re-cut. Luckily I got some great advice on here from Rockdiamond and Texas Leaguer. Their suggestion was to change the setting rather than the diamond.

So I took it to a different jeweller to see what he thought. What I hadn't realised was that the finish on the inside of the setting was quite poor - rough, uneven and not highly polished unlike the parts of the setting that would be on show. I didn't realise at the time that this would be an issue. Apparently the jeweller hadn't refined the inside of the setting before he set the diamond. So there was a large amount of dull grey metal obstructing the pavillion of my lovely diamond, reflecting dark areas back through the table and even touching the pavillion in a couple of areas making it impossible to get it properly clean.

Given that most fancy cut diamonds (even really nicely cut ones) have a degree of leakage, it seems that what is underneath (and round the sides) of the diamond can really make a difference to the performance.

So the new jeweller unset my diamond, removed some of the excess metal from the setting, polished the inside of the setting to a high shine, refined the prongs, and then rhodium plated the whole thing for good measure.

The difference in how the ring looks now Vs how it looked before is amazing and I really love it now.

Here are some photos - of the before and after:

Before - you can see the dark areas under the table:



And after - bright and even light return across the diamond, and loads more fire too

 

[missy]

I can say for certain that settings can have a massive impact on diamond performance!

When I received my 2.1ct princess as a loose diamond a few years ago I was really wowed by its performance. Then I ordered a custom platinum setting for it from the diamond vendor (in another country) and had it sent to me so my local jeweller could set it.

Once it was set it never quite looked as bright and fiery as when it was loose. I spent ages cleaning it, but I ended up being a bit disappointed with the performance. Of course, once you start getting sucked in to the deliberations about cut quality on PS it can make all this seem 10 x worse

I ended up thinking I might need to have it re-cut. Luckily I got some great advice on here from Rockdiamond and Texas Leaguer. Their suggestion was to change the setting rather than the diamond.

So I took it to a different jeweller to see what he thought. What I hadn't realised was that the finish on the inside of the setting was quite poor - rough, uneven and not highly polished unlike the parts of the setting that would be on show. I didn't realise at the time that this would be an issue. Apparently the jeweller hadn't refined the inside of the setting before he set the diamond. So there was a large amount of dull grey metal obstructing the pavillion of my lovely diamond, reflecting dark areas back through the table and even touching the pavillion in a couple of areas making it impossible to get it properly clean.

Given that most fancy cut diamonds (even really nicely cut ones) have a degree of leakage, it seems that what is underneath (and round the sides) of the diamond can really make a difference to the performance.

So the new jeweller unset my diamond, removed some of the excess metal from the setting, polished the inside of the setting to a high shine, refined the prongs, and then rhodium plated the whole thing for good measure.

The difference in how the ring looks now Vs how it looked before is amazing and I really love it now.

Here are some photos - of the before and after:

Before - you can see the dark areas under the table:



And after - bright and even light return across the diamond, and loads more fire too

Wow, what a difference. Gorgeous princess diamond and setting. Love how bright and beautiful it is.

 

[MarionC]

I can say for certain that settings can have a massive impact on diamond performance!

When I received my 2.1ct princess as a loose diamond a few years ago I was really wowed by its performance. Then I ordered a custom platinum setting for it from the diamond vendor (in another country) and had it sent to me so my local jeweller could set it.

Once it was set it never quite looked as bright and fiery as when it was loose. I spent ages cleaning it, but I ended up being a bit disappointed with the performance. Of course, once you start getting sucked in to the deliberations about cut quality on PS it can make all this seem 10 x worse

I ended up thinking I might need to have it re-cut. Luckily I got some great advice on here from Rockdiamond and Texas Leaguer. Their suggestion was to change the setting rather than the diamond.

So I took it to a different jeweller to see what he thought. What I hadn't realised was that the finish on the inside of the setting was quite poor - rough, uneven and not highly polished unlike the parts of the setting that would be on show. I didn't realise at the time that this would be an issue. Apparently the jeweller hadn't refined the inside of the setting before he set the diamond. So there was a large amount of dull grey metal obstructing the pavillion of my lovely diamond, reflecting dark areas back through the table and even touching the pavillion in a couple of areas making it impossible to get it properly clean.

Given that most fancy cut diamonds (even really nicely cut ones) have a degree of leakage, it seems that what is underneath (and round the sides) of the diamond can really make a difference to the performance.

So the new jeweller unset my diamond, removed some of the excess metal from the setting, polished the inside of the setting to a high shine, refined the prongs, and then rhodium plated the whole thing for good measure.

The difference in how the ring looks now Vs how it looked before is amazing and I really love it now.

Here are some photos - of the before and after:

Before - you can see the dark areas under the table:



And after - bright and even light return across the diamond, and loads more fire too

Wonderful!


(And I had the same reaction as you did. Unset, my stone wowed me, but after being set, I kept fretting over it).


This setting business is a revelation.

 

[Dancing Fire]

So simple, easy to keep clean....Nothing beats a tension setting.

 

[headlight]

So simple, easy to keep clean....Nothing beats a tension setting.

This post never gets old!

 

[headlight]

TYTY, LOL...to over analyzation. Right up my alley. I don’t think I can show the difference with photos, it’s probably more of a two-eyes perception, but I can post the setting before and after.
And...actually I am currently having my smaller asscher in a plain SK setting engraved as we speak, so I will have more data to over-analyze by the end of the week.
All I know is, if these settings are enhacing the stone, I want to know before I ever buy another setting!!

LOVING the engraved band!!!

 

[Polabowla]

I can say for certain that settings can have a massive impact on diamond performance!

When I received my 2.1ct princess as a loose diamond a few years ago I was really wowed by its performance. Then I ordered a custom platinum setting for it from the diamond vendor (in another country) and had it sent to me so my local jeweller could set it.

Once it was set it never quite looked as bright and fiery as when it was loose. I spent ages cleaning it, but I ended up being a bit disappointed with the performance. Of course, once you start getting sucked in to the deliberations about cut quality on PS it can make all this seem 10 x worse

I ended up thinking I might need to have it re-cut. Luckily I got some great advice on here from Rockdiamond and Texas Leaguer. Their suggestion was to change the setting rather than the diamond.

So I took it to a different jeweller to see what he thought. What I hadn't realised was that the finish on the inside of the setting was quite poor - rough, uneven and not highly polished unlike the parts of the setting that would be on show. I didn't realise at the time that this would be an issue. Apparently the jeweller hadn't refined the inside of the setting before he set the diamond. So there was a large amount of dull grey metal obstructing the pavillion of my lovely diamond, reflecting dark areas back through the table and even touching the pavillion in a couple of areas making it impossible to get it properly clean.

Given that most fancy cut diamonds (even really nicely cut ones) have a degree of leakage, it seems that what is underneath (and round the sides) of the diamond can really make a difference to the performance.

So the new jeweller unset my diamond, removed some of the excess metal from the setting, polished the inside of the setting to a high shine, refined the prongs, and then rhodium plated the whole thing for good measure.

The difference in how the ring looks now Vs how it looked before is amazing and I really love it now.

Here are some photos - of the before and after:

Before - you can see the dark areas under the table:



And after - bright and even light return across the diamond, and loads more fire too

That's an amazing difference on a gorgeous gorgeous stone!
I think settings do matter. I went to Tiffany's to look at heart rings & not a single one wowed me at all.
They were 1.5 ct , so a decent size but they just got lost on my finger.
The ring I got from Graff is a bit larger but also set differently & yes it wows.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I notice a very big difference in the performance of my diamond in a prong setting versus a bezel. The contrast patterning (arrows) was very stark/dramatic in the bezel, whereas in the prongs the scintillation is much more gentle and less contrast. More fire too. I prefer the prongs for performance, even though I liked the comfort and ease of the bezel.

 

[kenny]

Seems reasonable to me that he more light that can get into a diamond, the more light can come out of it.

That's one reason I buy only tension settings.

 

[Karl_K]

There is a difference between performance and looks
The performance can stay the same but the look greatly change.
Try this sometime.. put your ring on a different finger or hand.
Looks odd dont it?
Same performance different look.

 

[Karl_K]

Now doea a setting effect performane.not just looks? face up and a well cut stone not much but other angles there can be a bigger difference.

 

[MarionC]

Seems reasonable to me that he more light that can get into a diamond, the more light can come out of it.

That's one reason I buy only tension settings.

Now, this bring up another mystery for me. If performance is based on how much light enters the top of the stone and bounces back out, how much does light coming from sides play into the scheme of things.


Oh, and by the way, I think it would help my research if you sent me your ring.
Thanks in advance.

 

[kenny]

Now, this bring up another mystery for me. If performance is based on how much light enters the top of the stone and bounces back out, how much does light coming from sides play into the scheme of things.


Oh, and by the way, I think it would help my research if you sent me your ring.
Thanks in advance.

You are correct in that GIA and AGS grade light performance on axis, or looking straight down into the top.

But in life straight down is not how we usually see our diamonds.
92.43% of the time when I see my diamond on my finger, it's off-axis.
IOW I didn't flip my wrist up so to view it straight down.

For years I wore an ACA, a Solasfera, and a well-cut generic asscher for many years.
I enjoy and love their light performance.
I had grown accustomed to how much better the on-axis view was compared to the off-axis.

The difference between on and off axis light performance of the Octavia far surpasses that of these other well cut diamonds.
I think the small table and high crown have something to do with this.
I realize everyone loves their diamond and may resent my pontifications about the Octavia, but my years of personally wearing high end rounds and asscher, then an Octavia ... well ... my point is, I'm just speaking from a unique personal experience.

I'd compare it to the difference between holding your finger 3" directly above a candle flame vs. 3" to the side.
The Octavia sends more of the light show to the side.
Karl K is a genius.
I wish everyone could spend a week wearing an Octavia.

 

[MarionC]

You are correct in that GIA and AGS grade light performance on axis, or looking straight down into the top.

But in life straight down is not how we usually see our diamonds.
92.43% of the time when I see my diamond on my finger, it's off-axis.
IOW I didn't flip my wrist up so to view it straight down.

For years I wore an ACA, a Solasfera, and a well-cut generic asscher for many years.
I enjoy and love their light performance.
I had grown accustomed to how much better the on-axis view was compared to the off-axis.

The difference between on and off axis light performance of the Octavia far surpasses that of these other well cut diamonds.
I think the small table and high crown have something to do with this.
I realize everyone loves their diamond and may resent my pontifications about the Octavia, but my years of personally wearing high end rounds and asscher, then an Octavia ... well ... my point is, I'm just speaking from a unique personal experience.

I'd compare it to the difference between holding your finger 3" directly above a candle flame vs. 3" to the side.
The Octavia sends more of the light show to the side.
Karl K is a genius.
I wish everyone could spend a week wearing an Octavia.

A love letter to the Octavia

 

[distracts]

The difference between on and off axis light performance of the Octavia far surpasses that of these other well cut diamonds.
I think the small table and high crown have something to do with this.
I realize everyone loves their diamond and may resent my pontifications about the Octavia, but my years of personally wearing high end rounds and asscher, then an Octavia ... well ... my point is, I'm just speaking from a unique personal experience.

When I visited @Rockdiamond at his office several years ago, he showed me an Octavia - I had to ask what he was showing to me because I was so thoroughly blinded by the light show. Every way he turned it, it was just dazzling me with brilliance and fire, to the point that I couldn't even make out WHAT he was showing me, other than the sparkliest thing I had ever seen. This one was around two carats and something like an N - at any rate, a low color. Didn't matter, because who the heck cares what color it is when it's sparkling like that??? An Octavia has been on my collection wishlist ever since, because I've never seen anything else like it. I just have to convince my husband that it's worth it to spend $$$ on a diamond - he's totally fine with me spending a ton on other gems but balks at spending even $1k on a diamond, lol.