Help with setting issue on Princess Cut

[KeepStepping]

I posted a while back worried about whether or not a setting I had chosen for an irradiated blue diamond had the right look to it. (Thanks for the responses!)

We have made some adjustments, including upgrading the side stones to larger carats, and I think it looks great. The problem is that I have a very light blue diamond that is one of the reasons that makes it so special. I want to make sure that the setting lets as much light through to the center stone of the setting as possible, but I am not sure our current setting can achieve this.

Something like maybe something like this?

Should I get a new setting and give up on my favored setting here or is there a way that they can use a new head to bring more light into the piece?

These are the photos.....

 

[FrekeChild]

Where are the prongs for the E/W corners of the princess? I think that it looks gorgeous otherwise. Is that about the real color of the stone? I love it.

 

[KeepStepping]

Here is the prong setting with the center diamond. Obviously, the head does not yet match the stone -- we haven''t had it mounted. If you look at the side view, you can see all of the thick blocks of gold that I am worried about blocking light from the sides of center diamond. The ring looks bulky and not at all artistic or attractive from the side.

 

[KeepStepping]

This last picture is just the mount itself. As you can see, the stone is still detached and has not been mounted. I was wondering if there was a way to make it have a more attractive side look, and assure that light will be able to get through.

Any ideas??

I''d really love to keep this piece, for the most part, exactly how it is. The color is just so light that I don''t want to have it darkened by a poor mount choice!!!

 

[FrekeChild]

Yeah I think that profile view leaves something to be desired. Is this custom or a stock setting?

I think I would want a thinner shank (that one looks a bit bulky) and thin everything else out. Can they start from scratch??

ETA: Just saw your last post. I think that the 4 prong head will be fine and won't darken the stone all that much.

 

[KeepStepping]

Date: 4/28/2010 9:03:48 PM
Author: FrekeChild
Where are the prongs for the E/W corners of the princess? I think that it looks gorgeous otherwise. Is that about the real color of the stone? I love it.

YES! Believe it or not, that is the real color of this diamond! Isn''t it lovely? It captures light and looks absolutely amazing - I wish I could take better photos. I keep reading threads about irradiated blue diamonds and how disappointing they are, but I couldn''t be happier with my purchase. I''d love to have PS''ers opinions on it! (Gently, please!)

As for the prongs --- as you can see, there are none yet. The stone hasn''t been set yet, because we upgraded the side-stones of the mount and then I was very worried that all of the metal and princess box-style corner protectors would leave the center diamond looking a little dark or diminished. If you look at pictures of the mount itself, you can tell that it has a prong setting that I think is for a emerald cut. Our jeweler will have to remove those and give us the corner protecting prongs, which I have asked him to file down as thinly as possible. Just wondering if there are any other ideas out there. The ring presents really well from the top right now. BUT, right now it is sitting far too high, and it isn''t set with corner protectors.

It is such a unique princess cut that I am worried that I should have a custom setting made for it, or use it as a solitaire to really show off the color -- but I simply love the side set kite diamonds.

 

[KeepStepping]

Date: 4/28/2010 9:16:40 PM
Author: FrekeChild
Yeah I think that profile view leaves something to be desired. Is this custom or a stock setting?


I think I would want a thinner shank (that one looks a bit bulky) and thin everything else out. Can they start from scratch??


ETA: Just saw your last post. I think that the 4 prong head will be fine and won''t darken the stone all that much.

My thoughts, too. I really love the presentation from the top view, but I am one of those women who love Tacori, Maytal Hannah, and Durnell for their dainty, ornate design work -- pieces that look as great, if not better from the side than they do the top! I am dwelling on it, hoping it won''t bother me too much. This was a stock ring, not a custom. It just happened to match perfectly with the idea of what I wanted to do (at least from some angles).

Since we have the mount already, and probably for a price far below what a custom would run us, I feel like I should keep it and live with it. But, I have never had custom work done, and some of the custom pieces on here that have been done are absolutely worth every unknown penny invested in them!!

I am speaking with Bridget Durnell about possibly creating a piece that unites what I''ve created and a stunning ring she created in yellow diamonds (a blue version, using this center stone as the inspiration and center stone), but I am scared it will cost me an arm, a leg, and my kidneys. I have never done a custom piece!

 

[VapidLapid]

I agree with Freke, it''s too high and too think overall. Less depth on the band to start would help, that would bring the side stones down lower. On it''s own even the basket sits too high and there is plenty of extra at the bottom of that to cut off. plenty of space between the prongs for light to get in, wouldnt give that another thought. Essentially the whole thing needs to sit lower

 

[FrekeChild]

I think the center stone is beautiful. Often irradiated diamonds are quite a bit darker.

I think that the center stone was meant for a marquise (from what I can tell) from the prong placement. I think it looks great from the top, but yeah that profile would drive me nuts! I''m sure it''s more delicate in person, but still. What size are the stones again?

 

[StonieGrl]

What beautiful colors together, and I love the shapes of the stones too.

How about a Vatche style head for the center stone, if not all, the tulip vatche. It would look better to my eye, less gargantuan and a nice flowing contrast to the angularity of square stones.

 

[KeepStepping]

Date: 4/28/2010 9:33:37 PM
Author: VapidLapid
I agree with Freke, it''s too high and too think overall. Less depth on the band to start would help, that would bring the side stones down lower. On it''s own even the basket sits too high and there is plenty of extra at the bottom of that to cut off. plenty of space between the prongs for light to get in, wouldnt give that another thought. Essentially the whole thing needs to sit lower

Vapid - Do you think that there is any reasonable way to do all of those things on this band? If I think this has a horrible profile all together. That is why I was considering going custom. I feel like everything sits and fits just slightly out of proportion, and is very unbalanced.

Stonie - I am about to look up those styles now. It is very important to me that I keep those side stones, and keep them kite set (set on the diamond), which is really unusual to find.

FC- Not a huge ring-- a 1.13ct center, with 0.76ct side stones. For the color and quality of the center blue, that was the largest stone we could find at the time. Everything else was either darker, or had a lesser clarity. (GIA claims mine is VS1, without clarity enhancements).

 

[VapidLapid]

o I like the vatche, didn''t think i would but its got real nice lines like a 1950s jaguar and some audrey hepburn understated elegance too

 

[Michael_E]

Date: 4/28/2010 9:10:14 PM
Author: SailingGem

If you look at the side view, you can see all of the thick blocks of gold that I am worried about blocking light from the sides of center diamond. The ring looks bulky and not at all artistic or attractive from the side.

When looking at a well cut diamond, the only time that you will be able to see ANY light coming from under the stone is when it is dramatically tilted and even then you will only see a small amount of light coming from the bottom or sides. Because of this you really only need to worry about what is above the the diamond as far as any interference with its brightness. Of course you may not want that setting for the way it looks from the side, but that''s an aesthetic judgement since, no matter what it looks like it won''t affect the look of the diamond, (other than blocking your view of it from the side).

 

[VapidLapid]

What michael says is true. The principle of total internal reflection that rules the behavior of light in a diamond obviates the benefit of light brightening of colored stones from behind that we are used to. Sailing: No I dont think all those things are possible on this band. I realized the totality of what I described was clearly a custom job, not a modification.

 

[FrekeChild]

One other thing, are you ok with the corners of the center stone covering up the corners of the side stones? I think I can see you doing a custom setting thats this same idea, but has a more attractive profile view. That other one is just too clunky looking, and it seems like there aren''t any real fixes for it.

 

[iota15]

Wow. I love your center stone and That color!

I''m not sure if you can use the current setting while lowering the blue princess though. It''ll sit really high as is, and it''ll be even higher without the marquise prongs, as the princess V-prongs have to squirrel through the side stone''s prongs and then widen to fit your blue princess. The sidestones are already fairly high up. The blue princess may be stratospheric but you might be comfortable with that.

 

[Michael_E]

I was thinking this one over and I would suggest modifing the ring so that the center stone sits in a head which is similar to the heads holding the two outer stones. The easiest way the do this would be to remove the existing head for the center stone, slice the supporting bar and open it while notching it to fit a new head. That new head could be easily made from a square bezel tube setting which has had its top cut out in both directions leaving it looking like a square box with chevrons on each corner, (allowing you to see the sides of the stone). Fit this new head into the area which has been notched and adjust the height to suit you. Solder in place, set the stone and voila, it looks just like it was made this way with all three stones being lined up and the center being just slightly higher. You''d have to resize in order to make up for the space the new head takes up, but that''s very easy and the whole deal would be much less expensive than a new setting.

 

[chrono]

I don’t think the colour of the blue diamond is too light at all; in fact, it is perfect (looks more natural) and the setting is very open. If anything, I’d rather go with chevron or v-prongs to protect those very pointy and vulnerable corners, especially since the center basket is very high. Chevron prongs are not going to darken the stone much if at all.

 

[oddoneout]

I too like the view from the top and the colour of the diamond. I also like the sidestones. I would worry about the stone chipping and it being a bit high.

 

[marymm]

I think Michael E has a great solution that addresses all of OP''s concerns -- she can modify her favored setting by putting in a head more suitable to her stone and more in keeping with the line and flow of the setting.

I had a similar situation (a semi-mount with a head that was wrong for the stone I wanted to use), and my trusted local jeweler suggested a similar fix. At first hearing, it kind of freaked me out that he wanted to cut my beautiful semi-mount -- I was afraid it might affect the integrity of the ring or knock out some of the side stones -- but the new head was soldered in with a seamless finish, nothing popped out, and it is just as strong.

Back to OP''s setting - I love the intended look of the finished ring, and that is definitely the prettiest irradiated blue diamond I have ever seen. Please post new pics when the ring is all done!

 

[KeepStepping]

I''m contacting Michael E., and looking into some options about having all of those adjustments made so that the rest of the ring sits correctly. It makes a lot of sense. We found a great deal on an unusual semi-mount at a store, and my stone looked so great to me in the pairing that we decided to get it. It wasn''t until it was shipped to the store and than I looked at the side, and then started worrying about that thick, unattractive side view and fears of my center diamond towering above everything like the Eiffel tower. I actually have no problem with how wide the band is on this ring, I feel like there''s so much weight at the top (yes, there are TONS of larger diamonds at PS) that I need something a little substancial.

The second option is this: (see picture)

I found a custom designer who does some really unusual and beautiful work, and I am begging her to consider doing a custom order for me based on one of her rings that she did with yellow diamonds. I love every detail of her ring and design, except for the fact that I really want my kite set stones incorperated into the design. The open detailing of how the center diamond is placed is something that I am attracted to, because I really think it looks beautiful. Other than losing my kites - which I''m sure can somehow be worked in -- I do want to get opinions about this vs. my original design (with Michael''s suggested alterations).

PLEASE PLEASE reply with your comments, thoughts, suggestions. I know the new design is a lot different, and I think it has a split shank and bezel work up the sides (neither I would mind losing).

My only hesitation in just fixing my original ring is being very scared that the new work won''t blend together well enough to not look like frankenstein.




''

 

[KeepStepping]

This is a really lousy version of the idea of this ring done in blues.

 

[Stone Hunter]

Just wanted to tell you that I LOVE the color of your diamond! Hope you get the setting issues settled. I''d offer advice but I''m not good at design and you''ve gotten really good advice already! Try to have fun with the process!!