shape
carat
color
clarity

Help with emerald-cut diamond specs

gettingcloser

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
54
I'm looking for some help with this diamond. I'm working on a 3-stone emerald cut ring with Victor Canera. His suggested stone, sourced from his supplier is as follows:

Emerald cut
1.22 ct
G
VS2
Eye clean
Depth 67%
Table 64%
7.0 x 5.1 x 3.4
L/w 1.37
Polish excellent
Symmetry excellent

I have only one pic below and there are none others available according to VC. I imagine he doesn't have an ASET either, which I don't know how to interpret anyway. I also don't have individual price for stone but total price for project (setting and center stone) is @ $9600.

Does this look like a good diamond?
The specs seem good given recommended parameters for emerald-cut?
Any issues with simply relying on VC's recommendation?
Any advice on how I should proceed?

Thanks!

The diamond is 40x magnified

_35279.jpg
 

Mayk

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
4,689
I'm not one of the EC experts but I LOVE that VC setting! Can't wait to see the finished ring.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,225
I like that setting. But would actually ask him if he can tweak it so the shank looks like the one here:
https://www.victorcanera.com/rings/engagement/the-vine-trilogy


Also, not to completely override all the advice you've gotten but... all of the rings you've looked at and you've liked in your threads all have much larger than a carat center stones. ALL OF THEM.

I personally would not spend 5k on a setting and have it leave you with only enough of a budget for a 7x5 center stone.

Sorry to burst your bubble but your ring, proportionally, even if the sides stones are in the same proportion to the center as that sapphire ring, is going to disappoint you, I fear, unless your lady has size three fingers.

You can see what that size diamond will look like on a size 5 finger in the picture I've posted below.

I personally would tweak my stone budget or save up for a while and go for a larger center stone, at least 7.5 x 5.5 if you can do it. And if that means holding off on a Victor setting for a while, then I would do that.

As for the current stone under consideration. Victor needs to provide you with an ASET. And a video if he can.

argh.png
 

gettingcloser

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
54
Thank you Gypsy. One of the things I struggle with is perspective because I don't really know what a "big" emerald cut is. Is 1.3 carat considered big? Sounds like it's not. I love VC designs but I don't want to overspend on the setting. The rings Ive posted I've liked for their setting style not necessarily stone size (though they are sweet!) and I certainly don't want to be disappointed. My gf will love whatever I get her and I just wanted to get her the best, but there are several nice settings locally under $3k that would perhaps allow for a bigger center stone.

Is 7.5x 5.5 considered big? If not, what is?

And you're not bursting my bubble…this kind of input is what I need!!
 

marcy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 27, 2007
Messages
25,397
Gettingcloser, I won't repeat the advice Gypsy already gave you; she has some good thoughts and suggestions there for you. IMO I think a 1.3 EC diamond would be a decent size but that is a personal preference. If you go will a less expensive ring you can have more money for the diamond and upgrade the setting at some future date. I do like the 3 stone setting you posted.

Here are some specs I copied from someone here on PS (sorry I don't remember who) and when I picked my EC studs I stuck with these recommendations and those little EC are great performing diamonds.

Colour: H or better (ECs have a tendency to show body colour)
Clarity: VS2 or better (Step cuts show inclusions very easily)
Depth: 60% to 65% (A deep stone will measure smaller)
Table: 58% to 65% (Prefer the table to be less % than the depth. A smaller table = more fire)
Crown height: Anything over 10%. Over 12% will give you more fire.
Symmetry: At least VG
Polish: At least VG

Like Gypsy mentioned definitely have the vendor provide you with some ASET images. EC are awesome, elegant looking stones but based on the few I've looked at and compared in person you can really see a difference between well cut stones and other not cut so well.

ETA: Here is a link showing what ASET should look like for EC diamonds. http://beyond4cs.com/2014/12/aset-reference-charts/

Marcy
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Messages
40,225
marcy|1447648693|3950153 said:
Gettingcloser, I won't repeat the advice Gypsy already gave you; she has some good thoughts and suggestions there for you. IMO I think a 1.3 EC diamond would be a decent size but that is a personal preference. If you go will a less expensive ring you can have more money for the diamond and upgrade the setting at some future date. I do like the 3 stone setting you posted.

Here are some specs I copied from someone here on PS (sorry I don't remember who) and when I picked my EC studs I stuck with these recommendations and those little EC are great performing diamonds.

Colour: H or better (ECs have a tendency to show body colour)
Clarity: VS2 or better (Step cuts show inclusions very easily)
Depth: 60% to 65% (A deep stone will measure smaller)
Table: 58% to 65% (Prefer the table to be less % than the depth. A smaller table = more fire)
Crown height: Anything over 10%. Over 12% will give you more fire.
Symmetry: At least VG
Polish: At least VG

Like Gypsy mentioned definitely have the vendor provide you with some ASET images. EC are awesome, elegant looking stones but based on the few I've looked at and compared in person you can really see a difference between well cut stones and other not cut so well.

ETA: Here is a link showing what ASET should look like for EC diamonds. http://beyond4cs.com/2014/12/aset-reference-charts/

Marcy


I wouldn't say that these are bad specs. They are conservative, and will not guarantee you a lovely stone though. And will rule out potentially lovely stones. With EC's the specs are just there as a check. What really matters is the ASET, the step pattern and the play of light. When I look for EC's for people all I look at is the performance and the steps, and use the numbers as a check afterward to make sure that the girdle is fine and there's nothing to be worried about with the crown.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,225
gettingcloser|1447595355|3949911 said:
Thank you Gypsy. One of the things I struggle with is perspective because I don't really know what a "big" emerald cut is. Is 1.3 carat considered big? Sounds like it's not. I love VC designs but I don't want to overspend on the setting. The rings Ive posted I've liked for their setting style not necessarily stone size (though they are sweet!) and I certainly don't want to be disappointed. My gf will love whatever I get her and I just wanted to get her the best, but there are several nice settings locally under $3k that would perhaps allow for a bigger center stone.

Is 7.5x 5.5 considered big? If not, what is?

And you're not bursting my bubble…this kind of input is what I need!!


Big is a VERY relative thing. What one person considers big is not what another person considers big.

I think the best thing to do is the following:

Decide what rings have the proportions you like when you see the pictures (goodness knows we have tons of them). And ask what the measurements of the stone are and the finger size.

Go to a local store (I recommend Tiffany and call ahead and ask them if they have some emerald cuts). See what looks good to you. And from there ask the measurements.

Measurements matter with ECs. A 1.3 EC can be smaller face up than a 1 carat depending on the proportions.

So always when discussing fancy shaped diamonds carat weight isn't helpful. Measurements are.

Also size is a difficult thing because it correlates to price. And I don't want to jerk your budget out of control. I just want to make sure you aren't disappointed after spending all that money for a setting that can't be reused.
 

gettingcloser

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
54
Thank you Gypsy and Marcy. The sample ASET images are extremely helpful. There seems to be a considerable jump in price getting up into a 7.5x5.5 stone and still keep decent specs (color, clarity, depth, etc.). Even with a less expensive setting, it may not work with a 10K budget. Hmmmmm. Got some thinking to do.

Finger size is 5.25 and I originally thought a stone in the 1.3 range in a three-stone setting would provide pretty good finger coverage. Sounds like I'll have to get out to some local jewelry stores to see actual stones in similar settings.

This will be a forever ring (setting and stone), so I want the high quality VC brings, yet I don't want the stone to be sub-par size wise.

I'm also waiting for David Klass designs and perhaps that will allow more $ for the stone, but from what I can tell, the jump up to 7.5x5.5 might be cost prohibitive in a $10k budget.
 

Mayk

Ideal_Rock
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chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Joined
Apr 22, 2004
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38,211
Use a rule with fine mm measurements. Draw out 7 x 5 mm on a piece of graph paper. Allow for the corners, so it'll actually be a bit smaller than a rectangular 7 x 5 mm. Cut the paper rectangle out and put it on your finger to see the actual size.

In terms of mm vs carat weight, it will depend on various factors but there are some 1 ct ECs that will face up almost the same size as a 1.3 ct EC, so don't get too hung up on trying to hit a certain ct weight but go for the mm size instead.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
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Messages
38,211
gettingcloser|1447695258|3950331 said:
Will do, Chrono. Thanks. What's the minimum size (dimensions) you'd put in that setting?

This is such a personal choice and preference. I think 7 x 5 mm is sort of on the small side, to be honest.
 

gettingcloser

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
54
Yes, that seems to be the consensus. I've been in touch with VC who agrees that the ring would look small. In his opinion, the three stone setting is best with larger stones in 2ct range, which exceeds my budget.

So I'm back to the drawing board to some degree. There's a platinum setting with two square emerald-cut sides stones with tcw .60 at a local jeweler here for about $2,900, which would leave me about $7,000 for a center stone, hopefully one larger than 7mm x 5mm.

My gf really likes the three-stone settings so I'm sticking with that and will try to make the best of it with everyone's help here on PS!

Keep any and all ideas coming....please!

Thanks.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Messages
40,225
Is there a time line or can you save up for a couole months?

Hiw about just baguettes as sidestines through David K or Brilliantly engaged?
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,225
My suggestion. Goal H VS stone of 7.5x5.5. Budget 8,500. Buy stone when a dealer finds you right one. Could take a couple months.

Then save up additional 1k for setting. Setting goal price 2.5k


We can help you find right setting.
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
40,225
Setting options:
http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/three-stone/emerald-and-baguette-platinum-5449p

What I would suggest you do. Call Brilliantly Engaged.

They find fabulous Emerald Cuts. And make some of the best CAD and CAST three stone rings I've seen. And I've seen their work in person. If you buy both EC and setting from them they will give you a better price.

Show them a picture of the setting from Victor

And tell them you want an H or better VS eyeclean that is at a minimum 7.5 x 5.5 EC that is bright and a great performer.

Give them an 10k budget. And see what they say.

Also consider one of these settings:

natural-untreated-emerald-cut-blue-sapphire-and-diamond-three-stone-ring.jpg

fjr24950_1_enlarged.jpg

r-1775.jpg
 

gettingcloser

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 7, 2015
Messages
54
Thanks Gypsy. Timeline is early 2016. I would really like to stay at $10k budget if I can. My gf is not enamored with the 3-stone baguette design so I'm going to follow up with Klass and BE.

This is a platinum setting with .70 tcw side trapezoids from Brilliantly Engaged for under $3k, but that still may leave the issue of finding a large enough center emerald cut to go in it. Have you found EB to have a good eye for proportions? Might it be worth asking them to try to find a suitable stone in budget? This setting is called Deleney on B E site. You have to search it.

Edit- Setting is $2375. Side traps are .70tcw, F-G, VS.

_784.jpeg
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
40,225
See if you can get them to come down on the setting price if you get the stone from them.

Best thing to do is talk to them.
 

quaddio

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 13, 2011
Messages
509
Hi Closer,

I wanted to offer an alternative opinion and share my photos of my former ring - an emerald cut 3 stone on a size 5.25 finger. I personally love larger sidestones in this style and my center was smaller at .80 with two .60 sidestones for a 2ctw. I loved the proportions and the size felt large to me. Everyone has different opinions and preferences, I recommend trying on similar styles if you can and making sure you're choosing for yourself not anyone else.

Good luck!
 

Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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Messages
40,225
Realized I didn't answer one of your questions.

Yes, Brilliantly Engaged has a fantastic eye for fancies. And because of their location (heart of NY Diamond District) sometimes they can get their mits on stock other people can't.

Plus they are really nice. Call them though, they are spotty with email.
 
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