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Help with a diamond!

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Cut is the most important aspect for the performance of the stone. Clarity, if you can't see it, you can't see it, be it an IF or eye-clean SI1.

For the cut, we will need at least the proportions, just ask for the GIA report numbers and carat weight as listed on the report.
 
Hi,

Here is what I got...

8.13 x 8.18 x 4.94
Table 58%
Depth 60.6%
Crown Angle 35.5
Crown Height 15%
Pavillion Angle 40.4
Pavillion Depth 42.5
Star Length 50%
Lower Half 80%
Culet None

Thanks in advance
 
IF clarity is a colossal waste of money in my opinion and I know many here share that view. It may be important to you though. I would rather an IDEAL cut in every way and have a DE VS1 or 2 than an F IF of somewhat ho hum cut....my 2 cents
 
Numbers look promising.
 
Date: 11/30/2009 9:44:29 AM
Author: tightfortime
Hi,

Here is what I got...

8.13 x 8.18 x 4.94
Table 58%
Depth 60.6%
Crown Angle 35.5
Crown Height 15%
Pavillion Angle 40.4
Pavillion Depth 42.5
Star Length 50%
Lower Half 80%
Culet None

Thanks in advance
Might be ok, check if you can see the diamond in person that it doesn't show obstruction, this is where the diamond visibly darkens at close scrutiny due to the viewer's head or body shadow blocking the light to the stone. This can happen in some cases with shallower pavilion angles, if the stone doesn't darken at close inspection and you like the look of it away from the store lights then thats fine.

Check out the video bottom right titled Head Obstruction by Garry Holloway to see what to look for.

http://diamondscope.pricescope.com/
 
Date: 11/30/2009 10:13:24 AM
Author: Lorelei


Date: 11/30/2009 9:44:29 AM
Author: tightfortime
Hi,

Here is what I got...

8.13 x 8.18 x 4.94
Table 58%
Depth 60.6%
Crown Angle 35.5
Crown Height 15%
Pavillion Angle 40.4
Pavillion Depth 42.5
Star Length 50%
Lower Half 80%
Culet None

Thanks in advance
Might be ok, check if you can see the diamond in person that it doesn''t show obstruction, this is where the diamond visibly darkens at close scrutiny due to the viewer''s head or body shadow blocking the light to the stone. This can happen in some cases with shallower pavilion angles, if the stone doesn''t darken at close inspection and you like the look of it away from the store lights then thats fine.

Check out the video bottom right titled Head Obstruction by Garry Holloway to see what to look for.

http://diamondscope.pricescope.com/
Might be ok?!
1.gif


Thanks for the link, I am going to see it wednesday and I will check for obstruction.
 
Date: 11/30/2009 9:49:20 AM
Author: Stone-cold11
Numbers look promising.
I put the numbers into the Holloway Cut Advisor and it came back

Light return Excellent
Fire Excellent
Scintillation Excellent
Spread Very Good

Total visual performance 0.8 which is ideal for TIC

It shows it is in the ideal range for AGS but outwith GIA excellent candidates... So now even more confused
7.gif
 
Date: 11/30/2009 10:31:38 AM
Author: tightfortime

Date: 11/30/2009 9:49:20 AM
Author: Stone-cold11
Numbers look promising.
I put the numbers into the Holloway Cut Advisor and it came back

Light return Excellent
Fire Excellent
Scintillation Excellent
Spread Very Good

Total visual performance 0.8 which is ideal for TIC

It shows it is in the ideal range for AGS but outwith GIA excellent candidates... So now even more confused
7.gif
What?
 
Date: 11/30/2009 10:31:38 AM
Author: tightfortime

Date: 11/30/2009 9:49:20 AM
Author: Stone-cold11
Numbers look promising.
I put the numbers into the Holloway Cut Advisor and it came back

Light return Excellent
Fire Excellent
Scintillation Excellent
Spread Very Good

Total visual performance 0.8 which is ideal for TIC

It shows it is in the ideal range for AGS but outwith GIA excellent candidates... So now even more confused
7.gif
This diamond won''t get a GIA Excellent cut grade with that pavilion angle, 40.4 will get very good.
 
Date: 11/30/2009 9:47:52 AM
Author: bgray
IF clarity is a colossal waste of money in my opinion and I know many here share that view. It may be important to you though. I would rather an IDEAL cut in every way and have a DE VS1 or 2 than an F IF of somewhat ho hum cut....my 2 cents
I agree.

Cut quality is very important; more important than anything else.

I'm probably one of the fussier PS members when it comes to clarity grade and the inclusions within, but since VS inclusions are too small to see, and has so few inclusions that they don't impact the visible sparkles, then there's little point going for Flawless over VS clarity.
I could meet you at a dinner party and claim that my D SI1 was flawless and unless you had a 10x magnifier with you, you'd have to take my word for it because you wouldn't be able to tell.
31.gif


F-VS is about as high-quality as most people will ever need to go; it will almost certainly appear white and almost certainly have no visible inclusions. G-SI1 is probably adequate for most people if budget/size requirements need to be met, but a few tiny specks of inclusions might be visible with thorough inspection at six inches in good lighting.

A quick comment about fluorescence because it bugs me that so many people posting things on the internet consider it to be a bad thing when they may have never even seen a strong fluor diamond.....
If you like a lilac tint to the stone when it is exposed to strong daylight or direct sunlight (looks like pale tanzanite colour but still sparkles like a diamond), then there is little to fear from strong fluor. People claim that strong fluor stones turn milky/hazy/oily/cloudy in strong light, but from what I've seen (and I've got six of these D-F with strong fluor "blue-white" stones), even non-fluor diamonds are just as likely to turn hazy as their fluor counterparts. Hazines is rare and seems to be more to do with the type and number of inclusions within the stone.
If you are not sure about having (or giving) a stone that turns a shade of lilac in strong daylight, then go for no fluor or only faint fluor; you'll probably never notice faint fluor.
 
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