Help w/AVC Setting Dimensions

[goldielox]

Long time lurking lady in waiting here! The BF has greenlit the go-ahead for designing my dream ring and all the years worth of knowledge I have gained from you lovely ladies is being put to good use. So first and foremost, thank you to everyone for taking the time to post, crosspost and offer insight on their jewelry journeys. And especially for keeping it open to non-members (it took me like 8 years to sign up, haa) so we can soak in all the advice!

Instead of choosing some random engagement ring that I "think" I might like, I'm coming into this journey with way more confidence than I could have imagined. I've been working with a jeweler overseas in designing a tapered baguette setting for an AVC moissy in platinum. I opted for double-claw prongs, which I encircled in blue. I actually really hated these, but after re-reading many of your posts about double claws being more secure and seeing all your pretty photos, I came around to them afterall . The setting is tapered with 4x1.5mm baguettes and will have pave and milgrain work on the gallery. The biggest concern I have is that the ring will flop over to the side, which I loathe so much that I don't wear 98% of my jewelry. There is nothing more I hate than jewelry that doesn't stay put and needs constant readjusting.

After about a month of going back and forth, I thought I'd ask for your input on the CAD. I like dainty rings set very low, but I've learned that my stone might be too big for the daintyness that I like. The gallery and basket height is 6mm, which is the lowest they could go. I added the dimensions I would like the ring to gradually decrease to but realistically, I have the daintyness and grace of a 3-legged Rhino. Given that, what are your suggestions on finding a good balance of "not bulky" and stability in my setting?

 

[swaye2010]

Long time lurking lady in waiting here! The BF has greenlit the go-ahead for designing my dream ring and all the years worth of knowledge I have gained from you lovely ladies is being put to good use. So first and foremost, thank you to everyone for taking the time to post, crosspost and offer insight on their jewelry journeys. And especially for keeping it open to non-members (it took me like 8 years to sign up, haa) so we can soak in all the advice!

Instead of choosing some random engagement ring that I "think" I might like, I'm coming into this journey with way more confidence than I could have imagined. I've been working with a jeweler overseas in designing a tapered baguette setting for an AVC moissy in platinum. I opted for double-claw prongs, which I encircled in blue. I actually really hated these, but after re-reading many of your posts about double claws being more secure and seeing all your pretty photos, I came around to them afterall . The setting is tapered with 4x1.5mm baguettes and will have pave and milgrain work on the gallery. The biggest concern I have is that the ring will flop over to the side, which I loathe so much that I don't wear 98% of my jewelry. There is nothing more I hate than jewelry that doesn't stay put and needs constant readjusting.

After about a month of going back and forth, I thought I'd ask for your input on the CAD. I like dainty rings set very low, but I've learned that my stone might be too big for the daintyness that I like. The gallery and basket height is 6mm, which is the lowest they could go. I added the dimensions I would like the ring to gradually decrease to but realistically, I have the daintyness and grace of a 3-legged Rhino. Given that, what are your suggestions on finding a good balance of "not bulky" and stability in my setting?
Hi there - you are not allowed to put moissy questions in rockytalk so I am not sure if someone will answer over here. You probably need to ask to move it over to the FFJ page.

Just a comment on your CAD though while I am here. It kind of seems like an unnatural taper. This is still fairly dainty for your stone size but in the profile, I would probably go from 2 mm to 1.8 mm in the middle and keep the thickness at 1.8 mm or 1.6 mm. That is fairly standard and works well with your finger size. Most of the damage happens on the bottom of the ring so it is best to not make that under 1.6 mm. Having a 2 mm, then 1.5 and then 2 mm again just doesn’t look right for this style. Remember SG typically has thinner than the CAD measurements unless you tell them you want to end at these dimensions and they will make the adjustments. I would suggest ending at what I mentioned above for not having a top heavy, but sturdy and somewhat dainty ring. Can’t wait to see it!

 

[foxinsox]

I’m a little confused - the face-on CAD shows a standard straight baguette setting with no taper but I see a gradual taper in the angled top down. Also it only shows 2 baguettes - where are the other two?
I have a straight baguette setting and it’s 1.8mm at the bottom of the ring and ~2mm across at the top where the baguettes are. It flops to the side sometimes but I like the profile view so don’t mind it.
If you want to reduce flop, you pretty much need to have more contact with your skin so it grips although it can be inevitable when you have a dainty band and bigger stone.
How big is your centre AVC? If the whole shank is 2mmx1.8 or 2mm all the way around it’s going to be plenty dainty but also sturdy enough to not warp or break easily. To give a sense of proportion, on a 7mm stone, the shank of my ering is 2mm wide and about 2mm high tapering to narrower (1.8 x1.6) on the bottom and it has deformed with wearing over time. It’s platinum though so is relatively easy to reshape. I will get it reshanked at some point and will go 2x2 all the way around at that point

 

[tyty333]

What size is your stone and what is the ratio? This looks more like its for an emerald cut and not an AVC. Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me but
AVC ratios arent as usually as big as what this looks.

 

[goldielox]

I’m a little confused - the face-on CAD shows a standard straight baguette setting with no taper but I see a gradual taper in the angled top down. Also it only shows 2 baguettes - where are the other two?
I have a straight baguette setting and it’s 1.8mm at the bottom of the ring and ~2mm across at the top where the baguettes are. It flops to the side sometimes but I like the profile view so don’t mind it.
If you want to reduce flop, you pretty much need to have more contact with your skin so it grips although it can be inevitable when you have a dainty band and bigger stone.
How big is your centre AVC? If the whole shank is 2mmx1.8 or 2mm all the way around it’s going to be plenty dainty but also sturdy enough to not warp or break easily. To give a sense of proportion, on a 7mm stone, the shank of my ering is 2mm wide and about 2mm high tapering to narrower (1.8 x1.6) on the bottom and it has deformed with wearing over time. It’s platinum though so is relatively easy to reshape. I will get it reshanked at some point and will go 2x2 all the way around at that point

I was confused as well! It's just the angle of the CAD, as the jeweler assured me it will be a gradually decreased taper. My mistake in writing the dimensions incorrectly: it's 2 4x2x1.5mm baguettes with a 9x7mm (2.26ct) Elongated Antique Cushion.

Peeking at your ring, I really like the 12-prong and straight baguettes you have! It gives it a beautiful retro look with the platinum and OEC Is your band dual-colored? on that milgrain and filigree! In thinking about your dimensions and comment on reshanking, this makes me reconsider what I initially wanted. How long have you had your ring?

 

[goldielox]

What size is your stone and what is the ratio? This looks more like its for an emerald cut and not an AVC. Maybe my eyes are playing tricks on me but
AVC ratios arent as usually as big as what this looks.

No worries your eyes are in fine form! I should have written it correctly as an elongated antique cushion measuring 9x7mm (2.26ct) with 2 4x2x1.5mm baguettes. I like the krupps dimensions with the facets of an antique cushion

 

[foxinsox]

I was confused as well! It's just the angle of the CAD, as the jeweler assured me it will be a gradually decreased taper. My mistake in writing the dimensions incorrectly: it's 2 4x2x1.5mm baguettes with a 9x7mm (2.26ct) Elongated Antique Cushion.

Peeking at your ring, I really like the 12-prong and straight baguettes you have! It gives it a beautiful retro look with the platinum and OEC Is your band dual-colored? on that milgrain and filigree! In thinking about your dimensions and comment on reshanking, this makes me reconsider what I initially wanted. How long have you had your ring?

Thank you! I do love my wedding set. I got my ering in May 2015 and um, dropped a weight on it at the gym in 2016 so had to have a crack fixed then it was perfectly round when I got it back but over the next few months it got quite out of round so I got my jeweller to tap it back into shape. It's holding now though. I think platinum is quite malleable though as I have an 18k WG band with very similar dimensions that hasn't gone out of shape once despite being worn every day. My plat mix is 90:10 iridium.
And yep - my wedding band is two-tone, carved, engraved and milgrained which sounds way busy but somehow isn't.
Looking at your AVC dimensions, I do think you could easily have a 2mm shank all the way around and it'll still look very dainty especially with claw prongs. I did mean to ask, will you have pave on the prongs/basket? One view of the CAD looked like it does but I wondered what sort of wedding band you're planning to wear with it? If you have pave on the gallery, it'll eat whatever is next to it whether that's a diamond band or an engraved one.

 

[goldielox]

Thank you! I do love my wedding set. I got my ering in May 2015 and um, dropped a weight on it at the gym in 2016 so had to have a crack fixed then it was perfectly round when I got it back but over the next few months it got quite out of round so I got my jeweller to tap it back into shape. It's holding now though. I think platinum is quite malleable though as I have an 18k WG band with very similar dimensions that hasn't gone out of shape once despite being worn every day. My plat mix is 90:10 iridium.
And yep - my wedding band is two-tone, carved, engraved and milgrained which sounds way busy but somehow isn't.
Looking at your AVC dimensions, I do think you could easily have a 2mm shank all the way around and it'll still look very dainty especially with claw prongs. I did mean to ask, will you have pave on the prongs/basket? One view of the CAD looked like it does but I wondered what sort of wedding band you're planning to wear with it? If you have pave on the gallery, it'll eat whatever is next to it whether that's a diamond band or an engraved one.

Hearing this makes me want to just keep it 2mm all around even more haha. I don't have much experience with white gold, but that's enlightening news for my wallet!

Do you find there has been any malformation on the wedding band from the underside? Ironically I wanted a plain e-ring with an ornate vintage style wedding band but couldn't find any combos that worked. So I decided to the jazz up the basket subtlety with pave and milgrain + plain wedding band. Now that I see your set with the flash of gold and I'm in awe !

In any case, very good point about the milgrain eating away at the band. Think it could it tear up a simple 2mm x 2mm platinum band? There goes another thread post , ha.

 

[foxinsox]

Hearing this makes me want to just keep it 2mm all around even more haha. I don't have much experience with white gold, but that's enlightening news for my wallet!

Do you find there has been any malformation on the wedding band from the underside? Ironically I wanted a plain e-ring with an ornate vintage style wedding band but couldn't find any combos that worked. So I decided to the jazz up the basket subtlety with pave and milgrain + plain wedding band. Now that I see your set with the flash of gold and I'm in awe !

In any case, very good point about the milgrain eating away at the band. Think it could it tear up a simple 2mm x 2mm platinum band? There goes another thread post , ha.

If the pavé sits above the plain band, you should be ok. And no, there’s no deformation of any of my rings apart from the ering - my wedding band has angled sides so is deeper than it looks from the top - kinda like a flat-top knife edge. I checked the original listing from when I bought it and it’s 2.5mm widest the base and I think is near that in depth too so it’s pretty sturdy - you can see the angle and height here.

Two tone bands are relatively common if you look on Etsy or Ruby Lane. I’ve got a few links if you’re after floral bands as I’m mildly obsessed with them since finding mine

 

[goldielox]

Part of the pave will probably rub the band, so I'll have to find something that I wouldn't mind getting worn in. I see what you mean about the angled sides! I didn't know that even existed, so now I'm optimistic haha By all means, share those links so I can spend the next year planning my wedding bands Thank you so much for your help and feedback!

 

[rockysalamander]

I have the daintyness and grace of a 3-legged Rhino.

If this is true, maybe its better to err on the side of a more sturdy setting.The double claws and overall setting you are choosing is a good start. I would keep the thickness (off the finger) consistent and use a reverse taper to wider (lenght along finger) the setting. So, keep the width as shows at the end of the taper, then widen to 2.2 or more from that point to the bottom

I'd suggest a few design revisions.

1) If they build up to the end of the tail prong with a more graceful curve, you get the shank more integrated in the design, its stronger and the prong holding the end of the baguette is minimized. I highlighted this area in the beautiful SK design to show this.



2) I'd suck in the prongs, in yellow below, so that a wedding band contact the flare area at the end of the baguette and not the prongs. So, more sucked in than the SK option.


3) If you want to keep some pave, you can add that to the cross-bar. That cross bar is shows straight in your cad, but you could add a swoop that might be a nice side profile option. I would not pave the prongs as it complicates working on them.

 

[tyty333]

Just wanted to add that I think that the shank changes RockyS has suggested in 1) above will help keep the ring from spinning which seems important
to you.