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Help needed with Mens diamond ring design

Stevie Brazen

Rough_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
23
Good evening experts

Im planning to purchase a cut above diamond from Whiteflash - a modest .9 - and have it set in a bespoke ring design for myself. I know the basic ring shape and setting that I want - see image attached - but I need some help/ideas with the band design. I want something simple and timeless - but not just a plain band. Also, If any of you know what that setting is called, I would be grateful to know what it is.

All ideas will be gratefully received.

Thanking you in anticipation.

1656404122645.png
 
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Autumn in New England

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2012
Messages
1,778
I'm afraid I won't be much help in the creative ideas department, but I just wanted to say congrats on your diamond purchase, and that your ring example is really cool. I like that it has a "raw" element to the detailing and finish. It almost looks native or indigenous. :)
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
31,589
I like that ring too, especially how the metal next to the stone is not gold colored.
Is it tarnished silver?
If so, bring it on.
I think a ring of sliver that's allowed to tarnish to black would look cool, especially on a man's ring.
I might go with full bezel instead of prongs though.

I also actually like how the carving in the ring is not all perfect and prissy.
It looks sort of rugged and manly, like 3 days beard growth. :Up_to_something:

You're gonna love your ACA.
They are excellent!
 

Rfisher

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Oct 19, 2013
Messages
4,469
Looks similar to some of the men’s rings Romanov of Russia has had over the years.
Not collet Georgian era tho - nor Victorian crown era, the mid century/vintage ones. Tab prongs with a faux bezel?

Putting a name to the style might help with searching google images - but I think it might not help with conveying the style you imagine to whomever will be doing the setting for you. Sometimes I think terms like that hinder or pigeonhole the design discussion with a designer or have different meanings to individuals. As opposed to showing pictures and discussing off those.

Edited to add
RoR does have this ring listed for sale.
Gold/oxidized silver and they say the carving style is
‘stylized floral designs in the Russian Modern style of the 1910s.’
 
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Slickk

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 3, 2013
Messages
4,037
What a cool ring!
The stone is set in a ‘collet’ style head. That’s how I’d Google this style, add in descriptors for band (wide engraved/sculpted). I’d personally email David Klass for a quote. Good luck and enjoy that ACA!
 

Stevie Brazen

Rough_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
23
Thank you all for your assistance. The ring is a Russian Romanov from Chicago, and the setting is tarnished silver. I really like the setting, because the diamond sits low - important for a mens ring - while still showing multi dimensions of the stone. A diamond is a beautiful 3d object, so I dont want to show just one dimension in a bezel setting. I was just looking for advice on a classic/simple band design.
 

mwilliamanderson

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Messages
1,221
Thank you all for your assistance. The ring is a Russian Romanov from Chicago, and the setting is tarnished silver. I really like the setting, because the diamond sits low - important for a mens ring - while still showing multi dimensions of the stone. A diamond is a beautiful 3d object, so I dont want to show just one dimension in a bezel setting. I was just looking for advice on a classic/simple band design.

Have you looked into tension setting designs? They would be perfect for keeping the diamond low, while showing off it’s 3D characteristics. There are also semi bezel settings that achieve a similar result. Scholdt sent me design idea when i was searching for setting options. Here are a few ideas. In order-Stuller, Boone Rings and Scholdt.

A2BF799B-AF4C-4E22-82CD-423DA1B8732D.jpeg
 

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Stevie Brazen

Rough_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
23
Have you looked into tension setting designs? They would be perfect for keeping the diamond low, while showing off it’s 3D characteristics. There are also semi bezel settings that achieve a similar result. Scholdt sent me design idea when i was searching for setting options. Here are a few ideas. In order-Stuller, Boone Rings and Scholdt.

A2BF799B-AF4C-4E22-82CD-423DA1B8732D.jpeg

Thanks for that. I am considering a tension setting. I like your semi bezel design. Very clever. Ive looked at a million mens rings, but havent seen a semi bezel like that. How big is your stone in that?
 

kenny

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 30, 2005
Messages
31,589
I'm a big fan of tension settings, which I'll cal TS here.

These are the 4 of the 5 TSs I've owned:
After this pic was taken I got my current TS in Cobalt Chrome.

L to R ... 1.34 Octavia Asscher, 0.82 WF ACA, 2.26 Asscher, 0.83 Solasfera
Left 3 are titanium, right ring is platinum.

2r.jpg

A TS lets you see and enjoy more of the diamond you paid for.
And since light can enter from more of the surface fire is projected from more of its surface, even the bottom and sides.
They are a breeze to clean compared to any other setting.

IMO they are more safe than prongs.
Prongs can bend and drop the diamond without you even knowing it by simply putting a hand in a pocket or putting a sweater on.
Latter that day you look down and the stone is long gone.
TS are so beefy you'd end up in the ER from a trauma to your finger that was strong enough to bend the setting enough to drop the stone.

But, I would not trust just any vendor to make a TS since special processes, tools & expertise are needed.

The 3 TS makers whom I trust are Niessing, Steven Kretchmer, and Boonerings.

My first TS was platinum from Gelin Abaci (now out of business).
Then I discovered Boonerings offers titanium and various other alloys that are a fraction of the cost of the vendors which work only in gold and platinum.

The first Boonering I bought was titanium, next Cobalt Chrome which I strongly prefer.
It's lighter in tone and does not tarnish like our titanium ring did.

Screen Shot 2022-07-23 at 8.29.14 AM.png


Some gratuitous glamor pics:

011hm.jpg

This Boone design is called "Sidegrooves"and lets tons of light into and out of the diamond at all angles

12 3M.JPG

For no additional cost Bruce angled the metal to compliment the facet pattern of the Octavia Asscher.

View attachment 897013


Imagine how much more light gets into and out of the TS on the right compared to the one on the left.


0sideslanthm.jpg

The same two rings are in the above and below pics.

0p0ml.jpg
 
Last edited:

Stevie Brazen

Rough_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 13, 2018
Messages
23
I'm a big fan of tension settings, which I'll cal TS here.

These are the 4 of the 5 TSs I've owned:
After this pic was taken I got my current TS in Cobalt Chrome.

L to R ... 1.34 Octavia Asscher, 0.82 WF ACA, 2.26 Asscher, 0.83 Solasfera
Left 3 are titanium, right ring is platinum.

2r.jpg

A TS lets you see and enjoy more of the diamond you paid for.
And since light can enter from more of the surface fire is projected from more of its surface, even the bottom and sides.
They are a breeze to clean compared to any other setting.

IMO they are more safe than prongs.
Prongs can bend and drop the diamond without you even knowing it by simply putting a hand in a pocket or putting a sweater on.
Latter that day you look down and the stone is long gone.
TS are so beefy you'd end up in the ER from a trauma to your finger that was strong enough to bend the setting enough to drop the stone.

But, I would not trust just any vendor to make a TS since special processes, tools & expertise are needed.

The 3 TS makers whom I trust are Niessing, Steven Kretchmer, and Boonerings.

My first TS was platinum from Gelin Abaci (now out of business).
Then I discovered Boonerings offers titanium and various other alloys that are a fraction of the cost of the vendors which work only in gold and platinum.

The first Boonering I bought was titanium, next Cobalt Chrome which I strongly prefer.
It's lighter in tone and does not tarnish like our titanium ring did.

Screen Shot 2022-07-23 at 8.29.14 AM.png


Some gratuitous glamor pics:

011hm.jpg

This Boone design is called "Sidegrooves"and lets tons of light into and out of the diamond at all angles

12 3M.JPG

For no additional cost Bruce angled the metal to compliment the facet pattern of the Octavia Asscher.

View attachment 897013


Imagine how much more light gets into and out of the TS on the right compared to the one on the left.


0sideslanthm.jpg

The same two rings are in the above and below pics.

0p0ml.jpg

Wow, thanks for all of that info Kenny. I really like TS's but my only reservation is that they cant be resized. My wedding finger is a size Z+, and apart from my pinkies, thats my smallest finger. (My Grandfather was a boxer, and I think I got his hands). I would have probably been happy with a Bvlgari Bzero1 ring, but they dont even make it in my size, So, Im getting daimond and and having a ring custom made. Youre very fortunate to have four such lovely rings! How do you decide which one to wear?
 
Last edited:

Happytobemrsg

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 30, 2017
Messages
193
I'm a big fan of tension settings, which I'll cal TS here.

These are the 4 of the 5 TSs I've owned:
After this pic was taken I got my current TS in Cobalt Chrome.

L to R ... 1.34 Octavia Asscher, 0.82 WF ACA, 2.26 Asscher, 0.83 Solasfera
Left 3 are titanium, right ring is platinum.

2r.jpg

A TS lets you see and enjoy more of the diamond you paid for.
And since light can enter from more of the surface fire is projected from more of its surface, even the bottom and sides.
They are a breeze to clean compared to any other setting.

IMO they are more safe than prongs.
Prongs can bend and drop the diamond without you even knowing it by simply putting a hand in a pocket or putting a sweater on.
Latter that day you look down and the stone is long gone.
TS are so beefy you'd end up in the ER from a trauma to your finger that was strong enough to bend the setting enough to drop the stone.

But, I would not trust just any vendor to make a TS since special processes, tools & expertise are needed.

The 3 TS makers whom I trust are Niessing, Steven Kretchmer, and Boonerings.

My first TS was platinum from Gelin Abaci (now out of business).
Then I discovered Boonerings offers titanium and various other alloys that are a fraction of the cost of the vendors which work only in gold and platinum.

The first Boonering I bought was titanium, next Cobalt Chrome which I strongly prefer.
It's lighter in tone and does not tarnish like our titanium ring did.

Screen Shot 2022-07-23 at 8.29.14 AM.png


Some gratuitous glamor pics:

011hm.jpg

This Boone design is called "Sidegrooves"and lets tons of light into and out of the diamond at all angles

12 3M.JPG

For no additional cost Bruce angled the metal to compliment the facet pattern of the Octavia Asscher.

View attachment 897013


Imagine how much more light gets into and out of the TS on the right compared to the one on the left.


0sideslanthm.jpg

The same two rings are in the above and below pics.

0p0ml.jpg

Absolutely stunning
 

dk168

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jul 7, 2013
Messages
10,171
I too was going to suggest tension settings from the likes of Boone Rings. I would still recommend for his site to be checked out for inspirations.

Celtic designs perhaps with their organic curves?

Native North American designs perhaps, like the raven capturing the moon or something like that? However, it might be more difficult to incorporate a sizeable stone into the design.

How about having sides stones like bullets or tapered baguettes in the band?

DK :))
 
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