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Help me recreate my aunt’s ring

oncrutchesrightnow

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 17, 2006
Messages
3,288
IMG_2198.jpeg

Hi there colored stone friends! This project is not my usual jam but maybe you can help. I have one photo of my aunt’s mother’s engagement ring. It is awesome and undoubtedly will be passed down her children’s side of the family (even odds on daughter vs. daughter-in-law…). I could use you folks’ help recreating it. I’ll ask the (as-yet undetermined) vendor to help but knowing what to say and what inspo to give would be a good start. No rush; 6 month project. Maybe wait on the stone til I’m closer to buying.

My thoughts so far about how to describe the ring:
-1920s or earlier
- Family was not rich
- To my eye, the stone is a synthetic spinel; maybe a London blue topaz
- About 9x8 mm
- Radient or maybe cushion
- White metal but rose/yellow gold plating may have worn off
- Low set
- Milgrain faux bezel
- Claw prongs
- Milgrain on various filigree
- Possible orange blossoms on bottom and top edge
- Maybe orange blossoms on the shank
- Size 6


I want the repro to be as close to the same look as possible, except:
- Platinum
- Size 6.5
- Stone color: maybe keep the same turquoise; possible change slightly greener, other possibility is grey purple.
- Stone: spinel. Don’t care about treatments or natural vs. lab.
- Comfortable

Reverse image search so far found this ring as the closest, but there are no orange blossoms:

IMG_2490.webp
 
The setting for your aunt's ring was made by die stamping, a technique that's not as much in use now--and someone would need to use the same die that was used to stamp hers if you wanted the exact same setting. Without that equipment, nobody can recreated the setting exactly, though somebody could use different techniques to get a similar look.

If it were me, instead of having someone make a cast or fabricated setting that looks similar, I would hunt patiently for an antique that feels close enough. They're out there--you've already found one that's very close.
 
I agree with @Avondale (and also with @glitterata)!

You will need a side view for a faithful copy. Heck, while it's around someone can even make a mold to create a coarse model to work from, or it can perhaps be scanned for CAD?

I would be inclined to go with a step-cut aqua which, to me, better suits the period than the brilliant crown. But maybe that's making a different ring.

Sentimentality aside, I don't love all the gray to the gem -- but I might feel differently if I had seen it on a loved one for many years. For decades, one of my great-Aunts wore a pretty opal in what I then and still now consider to be one of the -- forgive me -- ugliest lumpy/free-form/60s-lava-lamp YG settings I have ever seen. I ended up with it...and now can't bring myself to change the mounting! It was her iconic (and pretty much only) ring.
 
Um.... so... what exactly do you need help with? :lol:

'Cause you seem to have it all done. At least, I can't thing of any one single thing to contribute.

Thanks! Pretty much the kind of stuff Glitterata said… anything to know about th setting so when I work with the vendor, I can describe what parts of the setting are most crucial.

The setting for your aunt's ring was made by die stamping, a technique that's not as much in use now--and someone would need to use the same die that was used to stamp hers if you wanted the exact same setting. Without that equipment, nobody can recreated the setting exactly, though somebody could use different techniques to get a similar look.

If it were me, instead of having someone make a cast or fabricated setting that looks similar, I would hunt patiently for an antique that feels close enough. They're out there--you've already found one that's very close.

This is exactly the advice I was looking for. :) I found one that is even closer but I am waiting til I’m ready to buy before posting a pic.

I agree with @Avondale (and also with @glitterata)!

You will need a side view for a faithful copy. Heck, while it's around someone can even make a mold to create a coarse model to work from, or it can perhaps be scanned for CAD?

I would be inclined to go with a step-cut aqua which, to me, better suits the period than the brilliant crown. But maybe that's making a different ring.

Sentimentality aside, I don't love all the gray to the gem -- but I might feel differently if I had seen it on a loved one for many years. For decades, one of my great-Aunts wore a pretty opal in what I then and still now consider to be one of the -- forgive me -- ugliest lumpy/free-form/60s-lava-lamp YG settings I have ever seen. I ended up with it...and now can't bring myself to change the mounting! It was her iconic (and pretty much only) ring.

Yeah, I wish I had a side view. But something similar to the orange blossom part should suffice, plus I found a really close setting but am not posting yet cuz I might buy it. :)

Thanks for the advice on the stone. Agree on the grey. I kind of want to keep it near turquoise on the color wheel because that is the color I have always admired, but will probably go with something less grey and maybe greener. I’ve seen spinels and sapphires that have colors closer to what I’m thinking. Also part of me is considering purple, because I want a purple cushion spinel ring a why get two rings.

I have seen similar rings online with step cuts but am not a fan, probably because it doesn’t look like my aunt’s. But there are plenty of cushions and radiants that I kind of like.

Here’s an example of a color — when the time comes I’ll ask all of you for help getting a quality stone :)

IMG_2483.jpeg

Thank you all! More insights welcome.
 
I agree about finding a similar antique not recreating. Either is an homage but the former will be better made for the money.

I actually see empty antique settings similar to this quite often. You could then custom cut a stone to fit.
 
I’ve always loved this DKJ Zircon ring that Christy-Danielle designed after a vintage ring. It has prongs instead of a bezel but the vibe is similar to the period your Aunt’s ring is from. Im pretty sure it’s cast. I think platinum is going to be very heavy in this style ring, so maybe consider gold.

 
I’ve always loved this DKJ Zircon ring that Christy-Danielle designed after a vintage ring. It has prongs instead of a bezel but the vibe is similar to the period your Aunt’s ring is from. Im pretty sure it’s cast. I think platinum is going to be very heavy in this style ring, so maybe consider gold.


That is gorgeous!

My aunt lives far away and is not in the best health. It would be really awkward at this time to ask for more photos or to borrow the ring to make a CAD/mold. I should have done it years ago because my aunt loves jewelry and she would understand. My mom was not into fashion or jewelry so I bonded with my aunt over those topics. My aunt would understand the request as me wanting to honor her but people who don’t love jewelry the way we do might think it was weird. (Ok it is weird.)

Lesson learned: Go ask all your friends and relatives to lend you their precious family heirlooms NOW to give to a jeweler they have never me so that you can reproduce the pieces. Don’t wait too long or it might get awkward. Because it definitely would not be awkward if you do it as soon as you see the piece you want.
 
That is gorgeous!

My aunt lives far away and is not in the best health. It would be really awkward at this time to ask for more photos or to borrow the ring to make a CAD/mold. I should have done it years ago because my aunt loves jewelry and she would understand. My mom was not into fashion or jewelry so I bonded with my aunt over those topics. My aunt would understand the request as me wanting to honor her but people who don’t love jewelry the way we do might think it was weird. (Ok it is weird.)

Lesson learned: Go ask all your friends and relatives to lend you their precious family heirlooms NOW to give to a jeweler they have never me so that you can reproduce the pieces. Don’t wait too long or it might get awkward. Because it definitely would not be awkward if you do it as soon as you see the piece you want.

But if your aunt loves jewelry as much as you do, I think she would appreciate you wanting to replicate her special ring. Maybe talk to her and ask her if it would be okay for one of your cousins to take some pictures of it. Then you can contact a cousin and explain that you have always loved their mother's ring, and that it is okay with her to replicate it. Then ask if they would take the pictures and text them to you. I mean, you aren't calling out of the blue and asking if you can have the ring.

You can then use these pictures for a great jumping off point with whatever jeweler you eventually choose when you are ready.
 
But if your aunt loves jewelry as much as you do, I think she would appreciate you wanting to replicate her special ring. Maybe talk to her and ask her if it would be okay for one of your cousins to take some pictures of it. Then you can contact a cousin and explain that you have always loved their mother's ring, and that it is okay with her to replicate it. Then ask if they would take the pictures and text them to you. I mean, you aren't calling out of the blue and asking if you can have the ring.

You can then use these pictures for a great jumping off point with whatever jeweler you eventually choose when you are ready.

Thanks! That is a good way to approach it. I found something close online — it is going through authentication. When I get it, that might be a good way to re-introduce the subject, given how many people love the ring design.
 
I agree about finding a similar antique not recreating. Either is an homage but the former will be better made for the money.

I actually see empty antique settings similar to this quite often. You could then custom cut a stone to fit.

Thanks, I have found a lot of synthetic spinel rings online from the 1920’s that look really close. I bought one off eBay and it is going through authentication. If it looks good, I will ask everyone’s help in either refurbishing the setting and/or getting a new gemstone. Otherwise, between the current photo and the ring I just bought, a vendor should be able to make something similar.

Honestly it has been fun researching all this.
 
Just got this and it is pretty close…

8F67187B-CF15-4E5B-AA72-00F656402FBC.jpeg

Orange blossoms are in the wrong spots but overall it is a good look. I have another one coming from eBay that might be even closer. Between those two rings and the pic of my aunt’s, I should be good to go, either getting a new stone for the ring that is on its way or else sending the two rings and the pic to a vendor to design a custom piece.

The ring in the photo above is a pretty ring. I can’t wear it as is because it is two sizes too small. I do not want to return it or sell it but am not sure what to do with it once it has served its purpose as inspo. If I am going to spend $$$ to refurbish or replicate the other ring, then it would be nice to get cheap-ish suggestions for this one.

Could…
-Resize ring
-Convert to pendant
-Replace stone
-Refurbish… polish, repair prongs, sharpen engraving/milgrain, etc.
 
Buying two rings you don’t plan to wear is an interesting approach… why not just find pictures that are free?
 
Buying two rings you don’t plan to wear is an interesting approach… why not just find pictures that are free?

Thanks! The 3-D inspection helped.
 
Ok, here they are — the aquamarine has the right engraving/filigree, the peridot has the right ratio. Between that and the photo I should be good to go.

8C2C0473-1EC1-4E99-B4D9-62F8D554AED1.jpeg
 
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