Harry Winston vs Victor Canera for a 5 carat Cushion with Halo

[Acinom]

Thank you for your kind words @ice empress !
After one project with Victor I felt I could 100% trust his aesthetic eye. So I have left a lot of decisions to Victor after deciding on the main idea. For my Solitaire rings I wanted double prongs for safety and because I love double prongs. For the halo settings I left it up to Victor. For these settings he might have figured that double prongs would be too much, especially for the smaller zircon.
For the NSEW halo I did not even know in advance what the profile would look like. So the diamonds on the struts were a nice surprise.

Now, for my very first setting (the diamond ring) I wanted to know every single detail...

My piece of advice is to write down your major points and discuss these with Victor to see what he advices. For such an important everyday ring, I can imagine that you want to know what it looks like, without micromanaging Victor.

 

[BlingKing80]

Thank you all for showing me your fabulous jewelry and sharing your amazing insight and knowledge with me.

Just spoke to Victor for CAC 4 carat, G-VS1 price will be 130k. My ring size is 5, he thinks with a halo, that will be plenty of coverage. How much is this negotiable with him?

Thoughts?

 

[LLJsmom]

I’m not enough of an expert to negotiate about diamond prices unless I think the price is egregiously overstated. And I’m comfortable negotiating about some things and not others. I probably wouldn’t negotiate. But I think everyone is different about this. It would depend on your comfort level.

 

[Octo2005]

Agreed, I am terrible at negotiating but, I would tread lightly if this is who you want to go with. He is really just as much of an artist as a jeweler and I would be cautious not to offend. His diamonds are going to be priced higher because they are a branded ideal cut diamond and that carries a premium. I do believe that he offered a discount on the setting when you purchase a stone from him, but I could be wrong.

 

[soxfan]

Yeah, I'd never question Victor. I'd be too afraid he'd say "No ring for you!" and that would be the end of it, and I'd be sad for the rest of my life.

But a 4 carat G VS1 custom cut will be very expensive I imagine. And YES, a 4 carat CAC with a halo on a size 5 is going to give you AMAZING finger coverage!

 

[BlingKing80]

Thank you all for the responses! I was looking at pictures and I like antique cushion but I like the "disco ball" sparkle of the modern ones. Can you guys please tell me what your prefer Antique vs modern cushion and why? Thanks!

 

[soxfan]

Thank you all for the responses! I was looking at pictures and I like antique cushion but I like the "disco ball" sparkle of the modern ones. Can you guys please tell me what your prefer Antique vs modern cushion and why? Thanks!

If you like the "disco ball" sparkle of modern stones and you are looking at a CAC, you haven't done your homework on cushions. I think you need to go back to the drawing board and ask the experts here to educate you on the different cushion cuts and recommend stones.

 

[yssie]

Imagine you have three large mirrors and three unfinished disco balls.

Break the first mirror by hammering it a few times. Take only the large shards, and glue them to the first ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: huge, slow, blindingly-bright flashes of light as the ball turns. You can tell which shard is going to light up next by watching the ball slowly turn.
This is an "antique cushion".

Break the second mirror by hammering it a few more times, and take some of the large shards and some of the small shards, and arrange them into some pattern around the second ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a few big, slow flashes of light and some glittery sizzle as the ball turns. Watch for a while and you'll see a pattern that's repeated over and over in the way it sparkles.
This is one flavour of "modern cushion".

Shatter the third mirror into tons of tiny pieces. Cover the third ball in glue and roll it through the shards. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a never-ending glitterfest as the ball turns, no bigger flashes and no predictability of sparkle pattern no matter how long you watch.
This is another flavour of "modern cushion".

No right or wrong preferences. When you say "I like antique cushions" - what, exactly, do you see that you like? The symmetry of the faceting? The light show as the the stone turns? When you say you like "disco ball sparkle" - what do you mean?

 

[BlingKing80]

Imagine you have three large mirrors and three unfinished disco balls.

Break the first mirror by hammering it a few times. Take only the large shards, and glue them to the first ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: huge, slow, blindingly-bright flashes of light as the ball turns. You can tell which shard is going to light up next by watching the ball slowly turn.
This is an "antique cushion".

Break the second mirror by hammering it a few more times, and take some of the large shards and some of the small shards, and arrange them into some pattern around the second ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a few big, slow flashes of light and some glittery sizzle as the ball turns. Watch for a while and you'll see a pattern that's repeated over and over in the way it sparkles.
This is one flavour of "modern cushion".

Shatter the third mirror into tons of tiny pieces. Cover the third ball in glue and roll it through the shards. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a never-ending glitterfest as the ball turns, no bigger flashes and no predictability of sparkle pattern no matter how long you watch.
This is another flavour of "modern cushion".

No right or wrong preferences. When you say "I like antique cushions" - what, exactly, do you see that you like? The symmetry of the faceting? The light show as the the stone turns? When you say you like "disco ball sparkle" - what do you mean?

@yssie you are simply amazing!!! Yes, i like the larger more symmetrical facets of the antique and like the glitterfest of the modern cushion.

 

[yssie]

Symmetry + glitter = modern cushion. Antique is barking up the wrong tree.

Facets on a 5ct cushion will naturally be large - it's a large stone. Glitter can be achieved through a specific style of faceting called "crushed ice" on PS. I should say here that you'll often see that term used in nominally-objective context as a pejorative - merely an unfair mis-characterization by the uninformed: preferences are preferences, and there are beautiful and ugly examples of all varieties of faceting.

Excellent video, long but worth watching:

If you want exceptionally symmetric faceting and appreciate the patterning of a modern RB, contact Brian Gavin Diamonds (Brian Gavin) and ask about their H&A cushions:
https://www.briangavindiamonds.com/diamond/brian-gavins-cushion-hearts-and-arrows
The setting style you want is best implemented by other vendors who use alternate methods of manufacture. Some options for mount vendors have already been proposed in this thread.

If you want symmetric faceting but don't care for the patterning of a modern RB, contact Brilliantly Engaged (Mark Turnowski) and inquire into both Mark T modern cushions and XFactor cushions. I'm not sure what's going on with the site - most pages and tutorials return 404s. Here's a video showing typical patterning for both:

BE can make your setting as well.
https://www.brilliantlyengaged.com/contact

If you want a stone that looks like a pot of glitter, contact Diamonds by Lauren (David Friedlander). David has an eye for exceptional "crushed ice" style stones and will be able to help you find a beautiful example.
DBL can make your setting - ask about his "uber" bench.
http://www.diamondsbylauren.com/

 

[BlingKing80]

@yssie so I cannot simply ask VC to source a nice cushion for me? And then set it in the emelia halo setting? One stop shopping?

 

[yssie]

@yssie so I cannot simply ask VC to source a nice cushion for me? And then set it in the emelia halo setting? One stop shopping?

You can ask any vendor to source any type of stone for you. However, vendors sourcing shapes that they do not specialise in means the process will likely take longer, they'll likely have fewer options to choose from (and therefore fewer options to provide you with), and the selection process itself will require more user input (you personally will need to do lots more homework to ensure you end up with a cream-of-the-crop specimen). Some vendors may not be interested in sourcing certain types of stones (though I doubt a modern cushion would fall into this category for any vendor).

It behooves you to choose a specialist for the same reasons you'd choose a specialist in any other industry: the vendors I suggested specialise in modern cushions. They are industry experts in these shapes and patterning styles, they have suppliers who are used to them requesting such goods (or they cut the stones themselves), and they have gobs of experience selecting and vetting them. You can place a lot more blind faith in their processes and their ability to source/manufacture the best of the best for you.

Edit: Regarding the vendors whom I stated can make your setting - I meant that they can execute this style of halo perfectly and leave you wanting for nothing. You will not be compromising or "settling" on any aspect of the mount, aesthetics or workmanship, by choosing either of these routes: their versions will not be exactly the same as VC's Emilya in all ways - some design elements will be different - but all will be beautiful. PSers will explicitly advise buying stone and setting separately in some cases, as I did above.

 

[BlingKing80]

@yssie I am overwhelmed with all this knowledge. But can’t tell you how much I appreciate your input.

 

[yssie]

Np, glad I can help! I edited my last post to add a note regarding 'one stop shopping' - please re-read if you haven't yet

 

[BlingKing80]

@yssie enjoyed talking to David at Diamonds by Lauren. Reasonable to get a stone from him and have it set in an emiliya by VC? Thanks

 

[Octo2005]

Imagine you have three large mirrors and three unfinished disco balls.

Break the first mirror by hammering it a few times. Take only the large shards, and glue them to the first ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: huge, slow, blindingly-bright flashes of light as the ball turns. You can tell which shard is going to light up next by watching the ball slowly turn.
This is an "antique cushion".

Break the second mirror by hammering it a few more times, and take some of the large shards and some of the small shards, and arrange them into some pattern around the second ball. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a few big, slow flashes of light and some glittery sizzle as the ball turns. Watch for a while and you'll see a pattern that's repeated over and over in the way it sparkles.
This is one flavour of "modern cushion".

Shatter the third mirror into tons of tiny pieces. Cover the third ball in glue and roll it through the shards. Hang it up, turn the motor on to make it spin, then turn the spotlights on. Imagine what you see: a never-ending glitterfest as the ball turns, no bigger flashes and no predictability of sparkle pattern no matter how long you watch.
This is another flavour of "modern cushion".

No right or wrong preferences. When you say "I like antique cushions" - what, exactly, do you see that you like? The symmetry of the faceting? The light show as the the stone turns? When you say you like "disco ball sparkle" - what do you mean?

I love this explanation of the different cushion varieties, brilliant analogy!

 

[yssie]

@yssie enjoyed talking to David at Diamonds by Lauren. Reasonable to get a stone from him and have it set in an emiliya by VC? Thanks

Exactly what do you like about the Emilya?

I recommend you spend a few days looking at lots of pictures - there are literally dozens of examples of Canera’s Emilya here on PS - and determine exactly what it is that you love about this particular setting from Canera. Are the things you are drawn to unique to Canera’s halo?

If they are, certainly - buy the stone and have Canera set it. Confirm the plan and process with both vendors first, of course, but this is a pretty common thing to do.

If they are not, ask David for some samples of his Uber bench’s work. A halo this bench produces will not be a replica of the Emilya - it will be an exceptionally well-made and aesthetically pleasing piece with its own nuances of design. One stop shopping has advantages, if you aren’t wedded to the details that make the Emilya the Emilya: you won’t need to deal with insuring the loose stone for setting, one vendor takes liability for the whole process end to end - no finger-pointing and no third-party mediation required if there’s a problem...

The short answer - yes, you can do that, many people do. Just make sure that’s what you want to do because it’s the more complicated route.

 

[Rpb]

Have you considered Brian Gavin for cushion cuts...he has some spectacular diamonds...
Please do get in touch with him ...

 

[LLJsmom]

Since. You are planning to work with Victor on the setting I would talk to him about sourcing some modern cushions to view. It doesn’t hurt to ask and he also sources a variety of cuts. You’re just looking for the one you like the most.