shape
carat
color
clarity

Harry Winston,Graff Diamonds,High End jewelers,do they have the best diamond cutters?

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No pressure.
No insults.

Everyone posts their opinions within the rules of PS.
Let's allow dissenting opinions (Sound familiar?), instead of trying to silence others; then readers can make up their own minds.
 
Date: 2/23/2010 4:14:54 PM
Author: Todd Gray
All I am saying is that I have a sarcastic sense of humor and the manner in which Kenny made his statement struck me as funny, it actually made me laugh out loud... If we had never had a debate regarding cut quality, if you weren''t involved at all, I still would have laughed - it''s really that simple.

Sounds like you approve of insulting remarks made in a discussion being used in an attempt to prevent a legitimate difference of opinion is being aired.

Again, your right, but let''s be clear about what it is.


CCL- how about we wait for another professional to comment.
My experience is that the fact of GIA calling a stone Modified as opposed to CB does not affect the price per se.

If another trades person has different experiences, that would be illuminating.
 
Date: 2/23/2010 4:23:27 PM
Author: Rockdiamond
Date: 2/23/2010 4:14:54 PM

Author: Todd Gray

All I am saying is that I have a sarcastic sense of humor and the manner in which Kenny made his statement struck me as funny, it actually made me laugh out loud... If we had never had a debate regarding cut quality, if you weren't involved at all, I still would have laughed - it's really that simple.


Sounds like you approve of insulting remarks made in a discussion being used in an attempt to prevent a legitimate difference of opinion is being aired.


Again, your right, but let's be clear about what it is.

Yes, lets be clear.

No insulting remarks.
No prevention of airing of opinions.

Everyone here is free to air their opinions, within PS rules.
You get to post whatever you want and others get to reply to what you post.
Just follow PS rules.
 
Kenny- if that is what you believe, please live to it.
It seems to me your post was intended to defame someone.
How do lighting techniques for photography have anything to do with this discussion?
Where on this thread was someone advising people to "trust their eyes"?

IN fact, looking at how the "big boys" mentioned in the title of this thread select inventory is integral to the question asked by the OP- and goes deep into the territory of how consumers select diamonds.

I''d love a more friendly dialog Ken.
Can I call you Ken?
 
Date: 2/23/2010 2:52:44 PM
Author: Todd Gray


The trial is weighed in the court of public opinion and the general consensus here on PS is that cut precision and cut performance matter... the only time I''ll waiver on this David is with regard to fancy colored diamonds which are cut for intensity of color and not visual performance. I have 25 years experience as a diamond buyer and over time I have fine tuned my selection process based on my experience based on evaluating thousands of diamonds for visual performance.
Do I smell contradiction?
11.gif
 
Date: 2/23/2010 1:14:49 PM
Author: Rockdiamond


Date: 2/22/2010 8:47:08 PM
Author: Hughrock




Date: 2/22/2010 4:37:26 PM
Author: Todd Gray






Date: 2/22/2010 3:37:10 PM
Author: Hughrock
''It has been mentioned before that online vendors do not carry a large stock of super high priced diamonds, it is expensive to keep such inventory and difficult to move such high priced items online, but even so some online vendors have a full retail store and have access to a much larger inventory if given sufficient notice. ''

It is my hope that your opinion is correct.I have a vendor searching for a idea cut 4ct radiant or asscher with no less then vvs2 clarity,F color ideal depth & table ect ect. I want to buy a ring with a online vendor for the whole sale savings if its possible to get excellent price and quality.

Well if it''s any help, I just ran a broad search on the Rap Net MLS for Asscher and Radiant cut diamonds weighing between 3.70 - 4.99 carats, D to F color, VVS-2 and higher in clarity, with a range of Very Good, Excellent and Ideal, with GIA, AGS, HRD lab grading, with a range of girdle thickness from thin to thick and no culet with a range of fluorescence from none to medium...

And there were no available options... So then I expanded the range of polish and symmetry to include ''good'' and still no results... So it''s not even a matter of ''cut quality'', there just isn''t anything out there in this carat weight and these shapes at the moment.

I did this more to satisfy my own curiosity, even if I''d found anything ''interesting'' I wouldn''t be able to post it on the forum because doing so would violate the forum rules (for good reason).
I appreciate you taking the time to do a diamond search.Larger high quality stones seem to be a tough get at the moment.My vendor has said as much based on the cut quality & specs that I asked for.There are currently large diamonds available with the online vendors however most options lack either cut quality, depth,color or other spec that makes for a rare find.

Had one online rep tell me that there is no standard table or depth numbers for fancy cut stones to indicate quality cut.I happily directed him to the widely accepted authority on cut quality for diamond fancies. After he said ...OH!! ,thanked him for his time and gave the guy my best wishes.

I do think its very possible to find a high quality nice size stone it just takes much longer via online vendors and does require a lot more patience if the client''s goal is to maximize price with product. I think online vendors can be the best route to take when buying less than 3 ct because that size range is easier to find.
Hugh- whoever told you that was telling you the truth.
There are NO widely accepted standards for fancy cut stones.
There are many different charts people may use, but they only can indicate the preferences of the person who made the chart, as opposed to widely held industry standards.

IN terms of supply:
Such high quality large well cut stones are indeed quite rare- but they do exist.
If you look at the actual realities of the situation it''s easy to see why you won''t find the best cut large stones in higher qualities on the lists referred to by Todd.
These lists generally contain stones sitting in cutter''s hands.
Stores like the ones referred to in the thread''s title stock these large high dollar stones.
Once a store actually buys such a stone, it comes off the lists.

The stones purchased for these high end places are purchased looking at actual stones- as opposed to trying to buy off a list. Sometimes this creates a situation where only the lesser looking stones are left on the lists.

CCL- nothing in your ''paraphrasing'' speaks of 30% premiums. I wonder if the person you''re quoting is happy you are doing so, but that''s not my problem.
If you want to pay 30% more for Cushion Brilliants, be my guest.
It''s bad advice to give folks shopping though........
RD

Hope I didn''t miss lead that sales rep it was never my intention to do so.I''m basing my request on the specs posted on PC which is known to several PCers and info provided by gemappraisers. But I have to admit vendors do respond better to your needs when you ask for a certain standard of product.I''ve spoken only with two respected vendors it is my hope that one will source my desired stone,plus I want to be fair with the vendors by not having too many doing the search.

Had a few to tell me that a 4ct radiant or asscher ideal cut is a difficult find.Especially with table,depth specs in the 60%-65% range. The vendors who explain the difficulty factor and said it would take time but at the end of this search they would produced those are the vendors who inspired confidence.If 60%-65% table&depth along with other specs is indeed considered an ideal cut radiant then I would like to see that quality in my diamond purchase.
 
Hugh- misleading the sales rep is the least of the issues.
There is no agreed upon "Ideal" cut in Radiant or Asscher.
There are people who prefer 65% tables for reasons they can explain- but it''s not a "rule" that a 65% table is "better" than a 70% table ( for example).
I am sure you''ll do fine- and I apologize that your post seemed to ignite this heated debate ( if it bothers you)

Not asking a lot of vendors is very smart.
There are times that two dealers call the same cutter looking for a stone for the same client- giving the cutter the idea he has an "in demand " item and needs to raise the price.

If I was going to offer specific advice on how to buy such a stone it would be more in the way of using your well established judgement of human nature to pick a dealer that will take very good care of you. I suspect you''ve already done that.
It may take time, but I have no doubt you''ll find what you''re looking for.
 
Date: 2/23/2010 2:14:52 PM
Author: kenny
Hughrock, buyer beware.

If there was vendor that sold diamonds that do not fit into the category of good cut (when it comes to high light return) they would fight against the idea of good cut.
They would challenge charts with ranges of specs for good cut.
They would not encourage you to seek ASET or Idealscope pics.

They would cleverly present their challenge in the name of diversity of cut.
They would try to discredit widely-agreed-to cut standards as merely ''one of many opinions''.
They will tell you other kinds of cut represent the majority of diamonds sold or have been sold for decades (Note: cutting for high yield instead of light return is more profitable so no wonder the industry loves it.)
They would encourage you to trust your eyes or your jeweler.
And they would do that here on Pricescope because educating customers about good cut does not help their sales.

Also be aware that photography lighting techniques can make poorly cut diamonds look like they are well cut.
Oh, and do a search here on any vendor you consider working with.
I try to be a reseasonable person(most of the time) but when ever I''m told to lower my expectation, it has to be shown to me why my goal can not be achieved.I got the impression re: vendor mentioned in my earlier post simply was more interested in selling me a stone from his current stock instead of sourcing a diamond that I wanted. There are some good vendors who have excellent contacts and can do even the difficult.
 
I must have forgot to drink the Kool Aid
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no-kool-aid.gif
 
My point is that places like Harry Winston consider a broad array of parameters when deciding which stones to purchase.
Fancy Shapes, in particular, present so many opportunities to both cutter, and jewelry designers.
Sometimes a larger table produces a really great looking stone, and makes financial sense, given many other parameters the cutter needs to consider. There's all kinds of rough. A smart cutter of fine , expensive goods needs to be able to cut beautiful stones and turn a profit.
Many noteworthy, extremely desirable fancy shaped diamonds fall outside the "guidelines"

With regard to the parts about large differences in stones prices due to cut- I'm not debating that fact whatsoever.
To cut the smaller tables which are favored in many "cut sensitive" circles, requires a certain rough and cutting method that could certainly put one 30% more costly than the next when considering two stones the same weight color clarity.
I'm also saying I believe the difference is worth it- in many cases- because it is a particular type of look.
It's just not as simple as CB vs CMB
 
Date: 2/23/2010 2:41:38 PM
Author: Rockdiamond
If the OP wishes to use ASET/IS/HCA/Cut Charts- that is of course, their right.
But in the name of accurate info presented to a much larger audience reading this, a balanced view is more accurate, and educational. These tools are NOT widely accepted in the trade at large.
It''s true that ''the trade at large'' includes some sellers pushing some amazingly bad stones , and info.
However it also includes many other sellers who put emphasis on quality of cut, and beauty.
The thread mentions some very prestigious sellers- do any of those places use the charts?
they don''t need to,cuz they use their name brand to sell expensive jewelry.
 
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the "best" cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I''m reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:

Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.

Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile''s very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?
 
Any vendor can call any cut anything they want to.
There are no standards.
Too bad Bluenile will not provide IS and ASET pics.

That's why I'd insist on seeing IS and ASET images of any fancy cut diamond I was considering.

You could even buy these two scopes, buy a candidate stone and then return it on time for a full refund.
You will only be out about $100 for shipping, though it may be more for insurance of such an expensive stone.

Considering your budget that's nothing compared to the benefit.
I did this temporary buying thing when I bought my first important diamond.
If fact I bought two and brought them both into a local jeweler to compare them to another well cut branded stone.
(I ran this by them first.)
 
Date: 2/24/2010 1:20:00 AM
Author: kenny
Any vendor can call any cut anything they want to.
There are no standards.
Too bad Bluenile will not provide IS and ASET pics.

That''s why I''d insist on seeing IS and ASET images of any fancy cut diamond I was considering.

You could even buy these two scopes, buy a candidate stone and then return it on time for a full refund.
You will only be out about $100 for shipping, though it may be more for insurance of such an expensive stone.

Considering your budget that''s nothing compared to the benefit.
I did this temporary buying thing when I bought my first important diamond.
If fact I bought more than one and brought them both into a local jeweler to compare it to another well cut branded stone.
(I ran this by them first.)
Kenny,that is a very good idea.Should be very little risk in buying then returning if need be, from a well establish online vendor.I was looking at the table and depth on this puppy and thinking of a radiant cut diamond.Just around the corner I''m thinking.
 
Please keep it civil gentlemen.
 
Hi Hugh,

I don''t know if it''s been mentioned before (and if it has, I apologize), but Good Gold Gold has a 3.13 ct. August Vintage Cushion for sale. It''s D color and VS2 clarity, and while it has the softer cushion shape, it''s a square cushion and a chunkier cut for bolder flashes. In the top right hand corner, you''ll see a link to a video of the stone''s performance.

I thought I''d mention it if you haven''t already seen it. It''s a really beautiful cut- I''d do backflips for one a quarter of the size.
30.gif


Link to the diamond: 3.13 ct D, VS2 August Vintage

Video of the August Vintage Cushion
 
Date: 2/24/2010 1:54:47 AM
Author: EBree
Hi Hugh,

I don''t know if it''s been mentioned before (and if it has, I apologize), but Good Gold Gold has a 3.13 ct. August Vintage Cushion for sale. It''s D color and VS2 clarity, and while it has the softer cushion shape, it''s a square cushion and a chunkier cut for bolder flashes. In the top right hand corner, you''ll see a link to a video of the stone''s performance.

I thought I''d mention it if you haven''t already seen it. It''s a really beautiful cut- I''d do backflips for one a quarter of the size.
30.gif


Link to the diamond: 3.13 ct D, VS2 August Vintage

Video of the August Vintage Cushion
Ebree

That is a beautiful stone with tons of fire & sparkle.I like the cushion cut very much and at one point it was among my top two choices.After learning a bit more about diamonds and their features the square shape Emerald square cut, radiant and Asscher have won me over.If you come across a ideal cut 4ct radiant please by all means bring it to my attention. I can make a happy home for it
35.gif
 
Date: 2/24/2010 1:03:46 AM
Author: Hughrock
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the ''best'' cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I''m reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:


Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.


Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile''s very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?


Hugh, this thread has brought up so many important points. Thank you for bringing them up!
I will not speak about any seller in particular, rather about selling techniques used in general.

One extremely important point you have raised involves the use use of cut grades, where none exist.
Here''s my perspective, as a seller:
A prospective client calls up:
"I''m looking for an Ideal Cut Emerald Cut."
I would answer:
"There is no such a thing- GIA or AGSL does not grade the cut of emerald cut diamonds"
Shopper
''But XHJDKFHHF.COM offers "Ideal" emerald cuts"


What this does is encourage sellers to start putting cut grades on their own stones- and in many of these cases, there is no basis whatsoever for the cut grade.

To use an analogy: Imagine walking onto a used car lot and asking the seller:
Show me your creampuffs- the lot across the street sells only creampuffs.

If you are dealing with a vendor that can personally assess the cut of a particular diamond, that''s a totally different story.
 
Date: 2/24/2010 2:41:29 PM
Author: Rockdiamond




Date: 2/24/2010 1:03:46 AM
Author: Hughrock
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the ''best'' cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I''m reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:


Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.


Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile''s very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?


Hugh, this thread has brought up so many important points. Thank you for bringing them up!
I will not speak about any seller in particular, rather about selling techniques used in general.

One extremely important point you have raised involves the use use of cut grades, where none exist.
Here''s my perspective, as a seller:
A prospective client calls up:
''I''m looking for an Ideal Cut Emerald Cut.''
I would answer:
''There is no such a thing- GIA or AGSL does not grade the cut of emerald cut diamonds''
Shopper
''But XHJDKFHHF.COM offers ''Ideal'' emerald cuts''


What this does is encourage sellers to start putting cut grades on their own stones- and in many of these cases, there is no basis whatsoever for the cut grade.

To use an analogy: Imagine walking onto a used car lot and asking the seller:
Show me your creampuffs- the lot across the street sells only creampuffs.

If you are dealing with a vendor that can personally assess the cut of a particular diamond, that''s a totally different story.
RD

You have kinda lost me a bit. Let me ask you.Is it true that a table & depth between 60-65% is considered a better cut for a fancy, than a fancy w/ a table & depth higher than 66% if all other specs being equal? Example 63.7 depth,63.0 % table versus a stone that has a 67.0 depth,66% table.

If so,can you not use these type specs to determine the best possible idea cut stone? You say there is no basis for a vendor''s cut grade. But aren''t the specs of a stone used to determine a diamond''s cut quality and why a vendor/jeweler can justify charging more for one grade over another even if there is not an "official" cut standard for fancies ?
 
Date: 2/24/2010 4:33:37 PM
Author: Hughrock


Date: 2/24/2010 2:41:29 PM
Author: Rockdiamond






Date: 2/24/2010 1:03:46 AM
Author: Hughrock
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the 'best' cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I'm reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:


Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.


Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile's very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?


Hugh, this thread has brought up so many important points. Thank you for bringing them up!
I will not speak about any seller in particular, rather about selling techniques used in general.

One extremely important point you have raised involves the use use of cut grades, where none exist.
Here's my perspective, as a seller:
A prospective client calls up:
'I'm looking for an Ideal Cut Emerald Cut.'
I would answer:
'There is no such a thing- GIA or AGSL does not grade the cut of emerald cut diamonds'
Shopper
'But XHJDKFHHF.COM offers 'Ideal' emerald cuts'


What this does is encourage sellers to start putting cut grades on their own stones- and in many of these cases, there is no basis whatsoever for the cut grade.

To use an analogy: Imagine walking onto a used car lot and asking the seller:
Show me your creampuffs- the lot across the street sells only creampuffs.

If you are dealing with a vendor that can personally assess the cut of a particular diamond, that's a totally different story.
RD

You have kinda lost me a bit. Let me ask you.Is it true that a table & depth between 60-65% is considered a better cut for a fancy, than a fancy w/ a table & depth higher than 66% if all other specs being equal? Example 63.7 depth,63.0 % table versus a stone that has a 67.0 depth,66% table.

If so,can you not use these type specs to determine the best possible idea cut stone? You say there is no basis for a vendor's cut grade. But aren't the specs of a stone used to determine a diamond's cut quality and why a vendor/jeweler can justify charging more for one grade over another even if there is not an 'official' cut standard for fancies ?
Answering the highlighted in yellow question: ABSOLUTELY not!!

There is no general trade agreement on such issues- mainly because so many other aspects of a fancy cut are what actually make it attractive- along with table and depth.
For example- how large are the corners?
Two emerald cuts with the exact same LxW- and even table and depth- can look completely different due to corner size.

Part of the "meat" of this conversation has to do with what is preference, and what is "Fact"
Calling diamonds "Ideal" sounds very factual- but in FACT- many places are using this term with no basis in fact whatsoever.

Answering the blue highlighted part- that is 100% true- you can NOT use measurements of a fancy shape to determine quality of cut....or more importantly, desirability.
 
Date: 2/24/2010 5:12:14 PM
Author: Rockdiamond


Date: 2/24/2010 4:33:37 PM
Author: Hughrock




Date: 2/24/2010 2:41:29 PM
Author: Rockdiamond








Date: 2/24/2010 1:03:46 AM
Author: Hughrock
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the ''best'' cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I''m reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:


Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.


Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile''s very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?


Hugh, this thread has brought up so many important points. Thank you for bringing them up!
I will not speak about any seller in particular, rather about selling techniques used in general.

One extremely important point you have raised involves the use use of cut grades, where none exist.
Here''s my perspective, as a seller:
A prospective client calls up:
''I''m looking for an Ideal Cut Emerald Cut.''
I would answer:
''There is no such a thing- GIA or AGSL does not grade the cut of emerald cut diamonds''
Shopper
''But XHJDKFHHF.COM offers ''Ideal'' emerald cuts''


What this does is encourage sellers to start putting cut grades on their own stones- and in many of these cases, there is no basis whatsoever for the cut grade.

To use an analogy: Imagine walking onto a used car lot and asking the seller:
Show me your creampuffs- the lot across the street sells only creampuffs.

If you are dealing with a vendor that can personally assess the cut of a particular diamond, that''s a totally different story.
RD

You have kinda lost me a bit. Let me ask you.Is it true that a table & depth between 60-65% is considered a better cut for a fancy, than a fancy w/ a table & depth higher than 66% if all other specs being equal? Example 63.7 depth,63.0 % table versus a stone that has a 67.0 depth,66% table.

If so,can you not use these type specs to determine the best possible idea cut stone? You say there is no basis for a vendor''s cut grade. But aren''t the specs of a stone used to determine a diamond''s cut quality and why a vendor/jeweler can justify charging more for one grade over another even if there is not an ''official'' cut standard for fancies ?
Answering the highlighted in yellow question: ABSOLUTELY not!!

There is no general trade agreement on such issues- mainly because so many other aspects of a fancy cut are what actually make it attractive- along with table and depth.
For example- how large are the corners?
Two emerald cuts with the exact same LxW- and even table and depth- can look completely different due to corner size.

Part of the ''meat'' of this conversation has to do with what is preference, and what is ''Fact''
Calling diamonds ''Ideal'' sounds very factual- but in FACT- many places are using this term with no basis in fact whatsoever.

Answering the blue highlighted part- that is 100% true- you can NOT use measurements of a fancy shape to determine quality of cut....or more importantly, desirability.
Dave

Thanks for responding. Do you think a vendor would charge more money for a diamond with table & depth in the 60-65% range than if the stone was in the 69-67 depth table range? The vendors who I have spoken with thus far are telling me the lower depth table stone is a rare cut stone.
 
Thanks for asking Hugh- I really do love talking about diamonds.
It's a great question too.

I agree- stones with the lower table sizes are more rare.
Stones given EX polish and symmetry are more rare.
Yet, not everyone will appreciate the difference- and more importantly, given the opportunity to choose in person, some people will have a definite preference for stones categorized as "lesser" based solely on the aspect of Polish/Symmetry and table size/depth.

It's a great argument to make that internet shoppers should stick to some guidelines in these areas to assure they're getting the best stone.
I honestly believe that trying to buy fancy shaped diamonds based on these "cut parameters" without having the ability to look at images results in a percentage of buyers getting stones they wouldn't have chosen based on the visual characteristics.

Yes, by the way- cutting for smaller tables can, in some cases, cause a lesser yield from the rough, making the polished diamond more expensive. Same for polish and symmetry- this results in higher prices for these goods.

Let me say, I feel they are definitely worth the money, to those buyers who will choose that look based on the amazing physical characteristics of small tables- for those who prefer the look.

The other side of the coin is buyers who would have chosen different , less costly diamonds based on physical appearance, yet had to spend more because they perceive the difference to be great based in large part, on the unique way the internet allows the exchange of data..
 
Date: 2/24/2010 7:01:26 PM
Author: Hughrock



Date: 2/24/2010 5:12:14 PM
Author: Rockdiamond





Date: 2/24/2010 4:33:37 PM
Author: Hughrock







Date: 2/24/2010 2:41:29 PM
Author: Rockdiamond











Date: 2/24/2010 1:03:46 AM
Author: Hughrock
Was online over at Bluenile earlier tonight and notice they had a new batch of fancy cut diamonds in stock. A few seem to be extremely well cut stones with both GIA & AGSL lab reports.What confuses me is the 'best' cut rating(very good) Bluenile has for nearly all of their top diamonds.How can a diamond be considered a very good cut instead of idea(if I'm reading the report correctly,novice that I am) if the specs are for example:


Emerald cut,5carat,cut very good,color F,clarity VS1,Depth 63.7,Table 63.0,symmetry Ex,Polish Ex,Girdle Thin,Cutlet Very small,Fluorence None,measurements 10.21 X 9.50 X 6.06mm,Length/Width Ratio 1.07.


Now tell me how can a diamond with these kind of stats be just a very good cut diamond instead of idea cut? Btw,the lab report on this stone is from AGSL. Could Bluenile's very good cut rating be equal to the ideal cut rating of other online vendors?


Hugh, this thread has brought up so many important points. Thank you for bringing them up!
I will not speak about any seller in particular, rather about selling techniques used in general.

One extremely important point you have raised involves the use use of cut grades, where none exist.
Here's my perspective, as a seller:
A prospective client calls up:
'I'm looking for an Ideal Cut Emerald Cut.'
I would answer:
'There is no such a thing- GIA or AGSL does not grade the cut of emerald cut diamonds'
Shopper
'But XHJDKFHHF.COM offers 'Ideal' emerald cuts'


What this does is encourage sellers to start putting cut grades on their own stones- and in many of these cases, there is no basis whatsoever for the cut grade.

To use an analogy: Imagine walking onto a used car lot and asking the seller:
Show me your creampuffs- the lot across the street sells only creampuffs.

If you are dealing with a vendor that can personally assess the cut of a particular diamond, that's a totally different story.
RD

You have kinda lost me a bit. Let me ask you.Is it true that a table & depth between 60-65% is considered a better cut for a fancy, than a fancy w/ a table & depth higher than 66% if all other specs being equal? Example 63.7 depth,63.0 % table versus a stone that has a 67.0 depth,66% table.

If so,can you not use these type specs to determine the best possible idea cut stone? You say there is no basis for a vendor's cut grade. But aren't the specs of a stone used to determine a diamond's cut quality and why a vendor/jeweler can justify charging more for one grade over another even if there is not an 'official' cut standard for fancies ?
Answering the highlighted in yellow question: ABSOLUTELY not!!

There is no general trade agreement on such issues- mainly because so many other aspects of a fancy cut are what actually make it attractive- along with table and depth.
For example- how large are the corners?
Two emerald cuts with the exact same LxW- and even table and depth- can look completely different due to corner size.

Part of the 'meat' of this conversation has to do with what is preference, and what is 'Fact'
Calling diamonds 'Ideal' sounds very factual- but in FACT- many places are using this term with no basis in fact whatsoever.

Answering the blue highlighted part- that is 100% true- you can NOT use measurements of a fancy shape to determine quality of cut....or more importantly, desirability.
Dave

Thanks for responding. Do you think a vendor would charge more money for a diamond with table & depth in the 60-65% range than if the stone was in the 69-67 depth table range? The vendors who I have spoken with thus far are telling me the lower depth table stone is a rare cut stone.


Hugh,

You are considering two types of Fancy shapes:

Radiant:

1) One of the few diamonds with a very flat straight girldle outline(cut cornered square or rectangular) and brilliant pavillion faceting.
2) Not designed for optimal light return, this cut allows a dramatic saving of weight over a round brilliant and other brilliant shapes.
They can be very sparkly in direct lighting(like office spots or halogens) but aren't the best in diffused and or soft lighting.
3) Very small virtual facets and long light paths.
This article by Karl K explains what virtual facets are: http://journal.pricescope.com/Articles/61/1/Virtual-Facets-and-patterns%2c-a-Discussion-about-step-cuts-.aspx. In very simple terms virtual facets determine how large the size of the flashes of light returning from the diamond will be.
3) Quite popular in colored diamonds because they allow the cutter to maximize weight, maintain depth of color (due to longer light path), and minimize the efficiency of white light return thus maximizing the intensity of the color which is even more important than weight in the pricing of colored diamonds. These properties make this cut less desireable in colorless stones where white light return is one of the primary goals.

It is important for you to describe why you like a Radiant as there are several different varieties depending on the cut. If the outline shape, brightness, and pinfire flash is what attracts you to this cut than that is important to know and will broaden your search parameters.

The cut ranges can be found here http://www.gemappraisers.com/oldcutgraderules.asp but these are not rigid perfect rules and should be used as a rough guide. I would say choosing in cut grades 2B an above would give you a reasonable range to work with. However the beauty of this cut and what appeals to consumers is not in optimized light return, if that is what you would like choose another cut.

In your case should you continue to search for a radiant it will be best to see videos or view in person potential stones and judge them individually based on your own observations regardless of the numbers. I rarely agree with how RD would judge the beauty of a colorless fancy cut diamond, largely because he is most familiar with the colored diamond market where anarchy prevails as cutters try to maximize weight and color retention and light return is often neglected. In this case however searching for a 4 Carat and above radiant it seems like seeing stones in person and judging each one individually regardless of the numbers may be the most sensible method as you may like the other qualities of these diamonds more than their light return and you may reject your best(only) potential candidates by keeping too rigid a range.

Cut Cornered Square Emerald Cut or Asscher

I would be interested to see if Jon at GOG, would be willing to source for you a 4 Carat Octavia in your specs. It would certainly be a one of a kind
9.gif
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An example of an Octavia can be found here http://www.goodoldgold.com/diamond/6856/ I don't know if this is possible and what the commercial terms might be for such an expensive purchase but it won't hurt to ask. At the very least Jon could help you in search of an Asscher if it is impractical or too risky to have one cut.

It is very difficult to judge step cuts by the numbers or an ASET because of the problem of distinguishing between stones with significant darkness and obstruction, or stones with good contrast and fire where a slight tilt causes a darker area to light up. One static image is not enough, a video or in person will be better.
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It would be best to start a new thread with any potential stones you have found and try to get a picture, ASET, and sarin scan for any potentials and Karl K or others can help comment on the cut. I think that many of us in this thread commented on the high end jewelry market and your search was somewhat ignored.

Good-Luck
CCL
 
CCL

Thanks for your input. I agree the radiant cut has less fire than other shapes and is often considered best used for colored stone, but there is something about that stone when colorless which draws me to it. More subtle to the eye I think. The same is true with the emerald and asscher cuts both very classic. The cushion cut would be a excellent stone if my main goal is to own a diamond with tons of fire and sparkle yet cut with my desired square shape.

My plan of attack is to let the professionals do their job find the stone with my specs and if it take a bit of time so be it. Once the diamond is located will then post all specs w/pics here at PC will also get a out side appraiser to give it the once over.I have at one point considered hiring a expert to go with me to Harry Winston or Graff. But you know I feel more confident finding the stone because of all the information learned in the last two weeks here at PC.

Believe I can now go into a Graff diamonds or HW, beging the transaction give them my specs and help them understand what it will take for us to do a deal that will make me happy.I agree that specs and viewing the stones in addition to ASET,Sarin ect should help my selection decision.

The other day I spoke with a rep from one of the high end houses who went on to tell me that _______ only sell the very best cut stones.I asked her what the specs were for the 4.2 ct emerald diamond she had suggested. She agreed that specs do play a large role in the brilliance of a stone but she also wanted to make it clear that________ sell only diamonds with excellent light performance and optical beauty.

I told the rep that I understand many people come to________ for the beauty of their diamonds and for the chance to own a gem from_________.But I''m a customer that is not totally against paying a slight premium "slight" but good customer service is a must with me,and________finding me a diamond with my strict specs is the only way we can have a starting point.

Honestly there is a part of me(yes I''ve been seduced by the glam) that would like to own a Graff or Harry Winston ring but for it to happen there has to be a discounted price in addition to getting a great stone.Have talk to about four different reps at high end houses and at least one seem very eager to discount in order to get my business. Because my goal is to find two great rings I''m considering buying one ring at a high end house and the other through a online vendor.
 
I don''t have a large stone. In fact, it''s rather small. I have the Harry Winston sunflower diamond ring. It sparkles like NOTHING I''ve ever seen before! I''ve had two other engagement rings... and neither of those sparkled like this one. Both of those were of better color (one is E, the other D), but neither of them have the fire this ring has. Walking around the diamond district in NYC I found NO stones in any of the windows or stores I went into that emitted as much color as this one does. I VEHEMENTLY disagree that HW doesn''t cut to bring out the brilliance of their stones. Every stone they showed me was spectacular... no matter what size. Additionally, knowing we were not "big spenders", they did not make us feel any less. The staff were very down to earth, super friendly and actually refreshingly warm without being fake, like so many stores we had previously visited.

As my husband just purchased this ring for me, I do not have the GIA certificate yet. They''re mailing it. I do know the center stone is .72 Brilliant, F color, VVS1; and the 8 surrounding round stones are also F color, but I''m not sure of their clarity.

I am absolutely in love with my ring and wouldn''t want another one. It shines more than any diamond I''ve ever seen.... on anyone, in any store, anywhere!

I believe Harry Winston sells quality over quantity, and that''s what I prefer.

I wish you could see this ring in person! It''s perfect... at least... it is for me.
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Date: 3/26/2010 7:34:54 PM
Author: Pippit
I don''t have a large stone. In fact, it''s rather small. I have the Harry Winston sunflower diamond ring. It sparkles like NOTHING I''ve ever seen before! I''ve had two other engagement rings... and neither of those sparkled like this one. Both of those were of better color (one is E, the other D), but neither of them have the fire this ring has. Walking around the diamond district in NYC I found NO stones in any of the windows or stores I went into that emitted as much color as this one does. I VEHEMENTLY disagree that HW doesn''t cut to bring out the brilliance of their stones. Every stone they showed me was spectacular... no matter what size. Additionally, knowing we were not ''big spenders'', they did not make us feel any less. The staff were very down to earth, super friendly and actually refreshingly warm without being fake, like so many stores we had previously visited.

As my husband just purchased this ring for me, I do not have the GIA certificate yet. They''re mailing it. I do know the center stone is .72 Brilliant, F color, VVS1; and the 8 surrounding round stones are also F color, but I''m not sure of their clarity.

I am absolutely in love with my ring and wouldn''t want another one. It shines more than any diamond I''ve ever seen.... on anyone, in any store, anywhere!

I believe Harry Winston sells quality over quantity, and that''s what I prefer.

I wish you could see this ring in person! It''s perfect... at least... it is for me.
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Why not post a picture of your ring? Lots of HW fans here!
 
Completely agree with PIPPIT... I have HW halo ring and HW loop earrings. Each is INCREDIBLE. The diamond earrings are over the top intense. I also have HCA 2.12 ct studs with Leon halos that quite frankly are not nearly as nice as the HW rounds. I don''t know how they do it.

As for the post regarding radiants. I agree that on the averages light return is not as good as other cuts but not always the case. I ended up going with a HW radiant in the halo setting (they were actually marketing it as a cushion). In all types of lighting it is wonderful. .. .the follwing pic is in soft, diffused lighting (which was suggested to be the worst lighting for radiants). Just goes to show that one really can''t judge fancy shapes without laying eyes on them.

lkjslks.jpg
 
thank you Deia!!!
Asforhim- what a lovely ring!!!

If the photo is accurate, so was Winston''s description- it looks like a cushion to me
 
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