Graduated 5 stones lovers, I need help

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Hi! I'm working on a graduated 5 stone trellis ring with White Flash but I'm stuck on what size to get the 5 stones (I'm starting from scratch). I'm going to ask them to set the stones so they are on a curve/huge my finger a bit. And I'm asking them to do a small bezel set accent stone in the shoulders. Right now I'm down to three things I'm considering for the proportions and would love some community feedback!

I've been really inspired by spending literally hours/days looking at all the great graduated 5 stone rings here since I discovered you all a few weeks ago. But it may be making me more confused as well as I try to guess at how things might look when adjusting to my ring size and in trying to put the different elements together (ie. changing the shoulders/shank from their normal trellis). Here is what I'm thinking of as far as the shoulder/shank in case it helps (note that the main part of the ring will be a graduated trellis, not the "U"s shown here):




I am a size 5, and when I have tried on regular (not graduated) 5 stone rings in a store, generally the 1 ctw (.20s) look best. A regular 5 stone on me with .25s is okay, and then five .30s on my are past the look I'm going for/my comfortable level. Here is a picture of my hand with Brilliant Earth's 1ctw 5 stone trellis (with their "whisper" band) for reference in case that is helpful.



Here is what I'm down to as far as options--I'm looking at ACAs and found one .3 so far that I'm really in love with so far (and one .41 should I want to include a .4.):

#1 Doing proportions like Bumblebee's ring: which I think was .15/.20/.30/.20/.15 on size 5.5 (including picture below, hope it's okay that I'm doing that). Also have picture Whiteflash sent me below of another ring in these proportions but no idea on the ring size.

Questions here:
A. This is my third diamond/major jewelry purchase ever and first online....
Does it matter that Whiteflash picks out the .15s and .20s instead of me?
(Asking this because I started by looking at Brian Gavin and there you pick out down to the .20s
Anyone know why the two places do this differently? Does it matter?)

B. Will I want stones bigger than this or is the size to go for if I like 1 ctw in regular non-graduated 5 stone rings?









#2. Doing proportions like .15 /.3 /.4 /.3 /.15

Questions here:
A. Is using two .3s and one .4 make it seem too big to me if I liked how five .2s look on me?
B. If not, is the jump between the .15 to .3 compared to the jump from .3 to .4? Will this be too graduated at the ends?


#3. Doing proportions like .2 /.3 /.4 / .3 / .2

Questions here:
A. Is using two .2s, two .3s and one .4 make it seem too big to me if I liked how five .2s look on me?
Or will that just look nice and graduated to me and make sense if I liked the look of five .2s on me?

Thank you in advance for any thoughts you have!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Hi! I'm working on a graduated 5 stone trellis ring with White Flash but I'm stuck on what size to get the 5 stones (I'm starting from scratch). I'm going to ask them to set the stones so they are on a curve/huge my finger a bit. And I'm asking them to do a small bezel set accent stone in the shoulders. Right now I'm down to three things I'm considering for the proportions and would love some community feedback!

I've been really inspired by spending literally hours/days looking at all the great graduated 5 stone rings here since I discovered you all a few weeks ago. But it may be making me more confused as well as I try to guess at how things might look when adjusting to my ring size and in trying to put the different elements together (ie. changing the shoulders/shank from their normal trellis). Here is what I'm thinking of as far as the shoulder/shank in case it helps (note that the main part of the ring will be a graduated trellis, not the "U"s shown here):




I am a size 5, and when I have tried on regular (not graduated) 5 stone rings in a store, generally the 1 ctw (.20s) look best. A regular 5 stone on me with .25s is okay, and then five .30s on my are past the look I'm going for/my comfortable level. Here is a picture of my hand with Brilliant Earth's 1ctw 5 stone trellis (with their "whisper" band) for reference in case that is helpful.



Here is what I'm down to as far as options--I'm looking at ACAs and found one .3 so far that I'm really in love with so far (and one .41 should I want to include a .4.):

#1 Doing proportions like Bumblebee's ring: which I think was .15/.20/.30/.20/.15 on size 5.5 (including picture below, hope it's okay that I'm doing that). Also have picture Whiteflash sent me below of another ring in these proportions but no idea on the ring size.

Questions here:
A. This is my third diamond/major jewelry purchase ever and first online....
Does it matter that Whiteflash picks out the .15s and .20s instead of me?
(Asking this because I started by looking at Brian Gavin and there you pick out down to the .20s
Anyone know why the two places do this differently? Does it matter?)

B. Will I want stones bigger than this or is the size to go for if I like 1 ctw in regular non-graduated 5 stone rings?









#2. Doing proportions like .15 /.3 /.4 /.3 /.15

Questions here:
A. Is using two .3s and one .4 make it seem too big to me if I liked how five .2s look on me?
B. If not, is the jump between the .15 to .3 compared to the jump from .3 to .4? Will this be too graduated at the ends?


#3. Doing proportions like .2 /.3 /.4 / .3 / .2

Questions here:
A. Is using two .2s, two .3s and one .4 make it seem too big to me if I liked how five .2s look on me?
Or will that just look nice and graduated to me and make sense if I liked the look of five .2s on me?

Thank you in advance for any thoughts you have!

Also, if this further information helps, I'm thinking of wearing the Trellis ring by itself most of the time, with a plain rose gold band at times, and considering, for slightly bling-ier times wearing it with something like the below (in rose gold, set very low, and probably smaller diamonds).

Would love feedback on this idea as well --

What size diamonds for this would you do if you were going to sometimes wear it with the other ring?

How small can you go on the diamonds with single prongs and still see this shape/look?

Anything important a newbie should know about single prongs?

Should I not do this? : )

 

[AprilBaby]

I prefer the trellis. I also would want the center to stand out just a bit more from the sides. #2 with a .45?

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I prefer the trellis. I also would want the center to stand out just a bit more from the sides. #2 with a .45?

Thank you! Appreciate your input.

 

[Diamondbug]

I have a .90ct 5 stone band that I love and pair with everything. I think it is one of my best preloved buys. If I was planning on a graduated 5 stone band, I would want to be sure that the stones look graduated especially if I am going to wear it as a stand alone ring. I would not want to look at it and wonder if all the stones are the same size or is it just a tad off... so I would pick #1 but make the center stone a little bigger at .40ct or .50ct. Can't wait to see what you decide on, it is a fun project!!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I have a .90ct 5 stone band that I love and pair with everything. I think it is one of my best preloved buys. If I was planning on a graduated 5 stone band, I would want to be sure that the stones look graduated especially if I am going to wear it as a stand alone ring. I would not want to look at it and wonder if all the stones are the same size or is it just a tad off... so I would pick #1 but make the center stone a little bigger at .40ct or .50ct. Can't wait to see what you decide on, it is a fun project!!

Thanks! I appreciate your help.

 

[737liz]

I'm about to make a slightly graduated 7 stone band using 4.0,4.05,4.17,4.3, 4.19, 4.06, 4.0 stones. I actually don't want it to be an obvious graduated band, more like I want it to look more curved via optical illusion. (Sort of like the Tiffany Twist inside out J hoops. The middle diamonds are larger and create the illusion of them protruding out in a more pronounced curve.)

I think it's all down to whether you want pronounced graduation, a standout center, or an imperceptible size gradient.

If the BE 5 stone felt right, that's 19ish mm end to end. Using a 0.4 carat center and 2 0.3ct stones, you're already using 4.7mm+4.3mm+4.3mm= 13.3mm. That leaves about about 6mm for your last 2 stones, which would translate into 0.1ct ends. Smaller side stones will be lower so I think you would still be comfortable with 0.15 stones, if you plan on having the band curve and sit low at the ends, like the trellis.

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I'm about to make a slightly graduated 7 stone band using 4.0,4.05,4.17,4.3, 4.19, 4.06, 4.0 stones. I actually don't want it to be an obvious graduated band, more like I want it to look more curved via optical illusion. (Sort of like the Tiffany Twist inside out J hoops. The middle diamonds are larger and create the illusion of them protruding out in a more pronounced curve.)

I think it's all down to whether you want pronounced graduation, a standout center, or an imperceptible size gradient.

If the BE 5 stone felt right, that's 19ish mm end to end. Using a 0.4 carat center and 2 0.3ct stones, you're already using 4.7mm+4.3mm+4.3mm= 13.3mm. That leaves about about 6mm for your last 2 stones, which would translate into 0.1ct ends. Smaller side stones will be lower so I think you would still be comfortable with 0.15 stones, if you plan on having the band curve and sit low at the ends, like the trellis.

Thank you! This is super helpful. I have looked up the mm before but have had trouble translating that into making a decision. Having done some drawing on my own, I now know I’m looking for the middle option you mentioned, a proud Ed gradation, but no standout center. It was really helpful to have you lay out the ideas that way.

Your seven stone ring sounds like it will be lovely!

 

[737liz]

Thank you! This is super helpful. I have looked up the mm before but have had trouble translating that into making a decision. Having done some drawing on my own, I now know I’m looking for the middle option you mentioned, a proud Ed gradation, but no standout center. It was really helpful to have you lay out the ideas that way.

Glad it helped! Can't wait to see it when you're done!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I prefer the trellis. I also would want the center to stand out just a bit more from the sides. #2 with a .45?

This is what I ended up going with!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I have a .90ct 5 stone band that I love and pair with everything. I think it is one of my best preloved buys. If I was planning on a graduated 5 stone band, I would want to be sure that the stones look graduated especially if I am going to wear it as a stand alone ring. I would not want to look at it and wonder if all the stones are the same size or is it just a tad off... so I would pick #1 but make the center stone a little bigger at .40ct or .50ct. Can't wait to see what you decide on, it is a fun project!!

I‘m going with .15/.3/.45/.3/.15. Thank you again for your help as far as making sure you could see a change in the stone sizes!

 

[Diamondbug]

I am glad you found out what sizes works for you.... I know that I have a hard time visualizing proportions!! Sometimes CADs help but most times, I still struggle! So much pressure to get it right since it is an expensive project!
Can't wait to see the finish bling so please share when its down!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I am glad you found out what sizes works for you.... I know that I have a hard time visualizing proportions!! Sometimes CADs help but most times, I still struggle! So much pressure to get it right since it is an expensive project!
Can't wait to see the finish bling so please share when its down!

I will! They just sent me the CAD. This is my first time doing this so hopefully all goes well!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I‘m going with .15/.3/.45/.3/.15. Thank you again for your help as far as making sure you could see a change in the stone sizes!

This is going to look very different that the 1ctw that you said you liked. And I think it is going to be a little large for your finger. When I look at Bumblebee's ring, and hers is on a 5.5 finger, that means those stones would even be wider on your size 5. So I am not sure about your middle three stones being .45 and .30.

A .25ct diamond is around 4mm, so five will have a span of about 20mm. Five 20 point stones would be about 3.7mm for a total of 18.5mm.

A .45 will be about 4.9mm, then .30 is 4.3mm each. .15 will be about 3.3mm each. That's a total of 20.1mm, so closer to the five .25 ct stones you said you tried on. Bumblebee's is more like the width of the band you tried on with five 20 point stones. I am really not sure about the proportions of 3.3-4.3-4.9-4.3-3.3mm. I think you'd need 20 point stones on the end for this to look right, and that's going to make it too big.

I wouldn't go with a .45 in the center, personally. I'd do 40-30-20 (4.7-4.3-3.7mm total 20.7mm) for a larger look, or I'd do the 30-20-15 (4.3-4.0-3.3mm total 18.9mm) like Bumblebees. I really prefer a gently graduated look like Bumblebee's over having a larger stone in the center.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I will! They just sent me the CAD. This is my first time doing this so hopefully all goes well!

Can you show us the CAD?

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Can you show us the CAD?

Yes! The CAD they sent me is above.

A few things I would like to change--welcome opinions/thoughts on these and any comments on something I might be missing as far as all the mm measurements... keep in mind this ids an engagement ring, not a wedding band trying to fit with a solitaire. And I think I should actually ask them to make this in a 5.25. My fingers seems to change size more than normal now that I'm paying super close attention to that?

1- Think at least the main 3 stones should be set higher (center stone highest). Something more like the picture below? Where you see the cutlet? (One note here is that I know I am okay with having a diamond set kind of high based on a 3 stone ring I had previously.)



2- I would prefer the pattern on the trellis be less overlapping/criss-crossing. More like another PSers ring that Whiteflash made ("item number 000897) where the main stone does not criss-cross beneath, and then the pattern of how things overlap is symmetrical on either side of the center stone. (I believe it is DelsFan ring!)




3 - Would prefer there be a cutout/split around the bezel stone as shown below. Are the bezels in there as shown too small or do they make sense with the other proportions?





4- This is more a question. The CAD picture that is one from the left, the view when you are looking straight down at the ring—once it’s done and on your finger, from that view you would just see diamonds and prongs, not the metal you see on the long side (top and bottom of that particular picture), correct?

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

This is going to look very different that the 1ctw that you said you liked. And I think it is going to be a little large for your finger. When I look at Bumblebee's ring, and hers is on a 5.5 finger, that means those stones would even be wider on your size 5. So I am not sure about your middle three stones being .45 and .30.

A .25ct diamond is around 4mm, so five will have a span of about 20mm. Five 20 point stones would be about 3.7mm for a total of 18.5mm.

A .45 will be about 4.9mm, then .30 is 4.3mm each. .15 will be about 3.3mm each. That's a total of 20.1mm, so closer to the five .25 ct stones you said you tried on. Bumblebee's is more like the width of the band you tried on with five 20 point stones. I am really not sure about the proportions of 3.3-4.3-4.9-4.3-3.3mm. I think you'd need 20 point stones on the end for this to look right, and that's going to make it too big.

I wouldn't go with a .45 in the center, personally. I'd do 40-30-20 (4.7-4.3-3.7mm total 20.7mm) for a larger look, or I'd do the 30-20-15 (4.3-4.0-3.3mm total 18.9mm) like Bumblebees. I really prefer a gently graduated look like Bumblebee's over having a larger stone in the center.

Totally hear you here and I definitely went round and round in circles on this. Part of my decision was dictated on wanting the graduation to be slightly more noticeable -- I was worried with some other proportions that my eye wouldn't see it? The other reason I went this way is that I ended up finding particular diamonds for the center 3 stones I really liked.

If it helps, here are the 3 stones I picked next to each other, with the .15 ACA on either side.

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

This is going to look very different that the 1ctw that you said you liked. And I think it is going to be a little large for your finger. When I look at Bumblebee's ring, and hers is on a 5.5 finger, that means those stones would even be wider on your size 5. So I am not sure about your middle three stones being .45 and .30.

A .25ct diamond is around 4mm, so five will have a span of about 20mm. Five 20 point stones would be about 3.7mm for a total of 18.5mm.

A .45 will be about 4.9mm, then .30 is 4.3mm each. .15 will be about 3.3mm each. That's a total of 20.1mm, so closer to the five .25 ct stones you said you tried on. Bumblebee's is more like the width of the band you tried on with five 20 point stones. I am really not sure about the proportions of 3.3-4.3-4.9-4.3-3.3mm. I think you'd need 20 point stones on the end for this to look right, and that's going to make it too big.

I wouldn't go with a .45 in the center, personally. I'd do 40-30-20 (4.7-4.3-3.7mm total 20.7mm) for a larger look, or I'd do the 30-20-15 (4.3-4.0-3.3mm total 18.9mm) like Bumblebees. I really prefer a gently graduated look like Bumblebee's over having a larger stone in the center.

Oh and one other thing.... I figured out that this ring, my mother's, is 1.34 ctw (the stones a little shy of .27 each). This my hand with her ring (though to be fair, her ring size in slightly bigger than mine).

Besides wanting the graduation to be noticeable, I guess I was worried about not feeling like it looked blingy enough if I went with stone sizes other than what I chose as well?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I like your mom's ring! I have a vintage one and want to have one made with larger stones, like maybe five 30 pointers, so I like seeing this picture!

Totally hear you here and I definitely went round and round in circles on this. Part of my decision was dictated on wanting the graduation to be slightly more noticeable -- I was worried with some other proportions that my eye wouldn't see it? The other reason I went this way is that I ended up finding particular diamonds for the center 3 stones I really liked.

If it helps, here are the 3 stones I picked next to each other, with the .15 ACA on either side.

Okay, if you want it to be very graduated, this does work! I guess I prefer the graduation on Bumblebee's the most. It is visibly graduated but not as much as this. I think I'd personally try a .40 in the center before proceeding. But this is your ring and not mine! So I am excited for you and look forward to seeing the ring!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Oh, a couple of other thoughts, no, I would not set the center stone that high. I'd rather have a softer curve than having the three center stones set up high.

The other thing is that I would definitely not buy or plan a smaller diamond band now. You may find that the ring looks best alone, but you definitely would need to try it on with different style bands before buying. I don't really think the single prong band would work well with it.

I feel like all my posts are negative! I don't mean to be, but I just want you to be happy with the end result!

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Oh, a couple of other thoughts, no, I would not set the center stone that high. I'd rather have a softer curve than having the three center stones set up high.

The other thing is that I would definitely not buy or plan a smaller diamond band now. You may find that the ring looks best alone, but you definitely would need to try it on with different style bands before buying. I don't really think the single prong band would work well with it.

I feel like all my posts are negative! I don't mean to be, but I just want you to be happy with the end result!

No worries. It is super helpful to have a knowledgeable perspective. You have been great. I appreciate all your thoughts even if I didn’t pick the proportions you suggested.

what do you think as far as the 2.3 mm on the band and the 1.4mm?

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Oh and one other thing.... I figured out that this ring, my mother's, is 1.34 ctw (the stones a little shy of .27 each). This my hand with her ring (though to be fair, her ring size in slightly bigger than mine).

Besides wanting the graduation to be noticeable, I guess I was worried about not feeling like it looked blingy enough if I went with stone sizes other than what I chose as well?

Yeah, my Dad did that to redo her originally plain gold band and he also reset her original engagement center stone into a five stone where the other 4 stones match these. It’s very blingy but also very straight across (except for her original engagement ring stone which may have been 1 cw).

I love that my Dad likes to surprise my mom with nice jewelry. : ) She also has a really pretty ruby ring (her birthday is in July).

 

[Diamondbug]

Totally hear you here and I definitely went round and round in circles on this. Part of my decision was dictated on wanting the graduation to be slightly more noticeable -- I was worried with some other proportions that my eye wouldn't see it? The other reason I went this way is that I ended up finding particular diamonds for the center 3 stones I really liked.

If it helps, here are the 3 stones I picked next to each other, with the .15 ACA on either side.

I personally love this ratio especially now that I know that it is a five stone engagement ring and not a wedding band. To me this ratio makes more sense since it is an engagement ring but it is your ring and you have to be happy with it.
I always have my ring sized a half size bigger because of summer swelling and for stacking so you might want to take that into consideration too.

I wonder if WF can send you plastics with different size stones so you can have a better idea of what you want?

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I personally love this ratio especially now that I know that it is a five stone engagement ring and not a wedding band. To me this ratio makes more sense since it is an engagement ring but it is your ring and you have to be happy with it.
I always have my ring sized a half size bigger because of summer swelling and for stacking so you might want to take that into consideration too.

I wonder if WF can send you plastics with different size stones so you can have a better idea of what you want?

Interesting question--I hadn't thought of that. They have sent me pictures of various diamonds side by side and I have used this website to try to get an idea of how various sizes look: https://www.diamdb.com/

And yeah, I'm leaning toward asking for 5.25. Right now I can get a 4.75 on that finger (though its a little tough on the knuckle section it's comfortable when on) and when I've been sized in a store they say 5 but I do worry about summer swelling/stacking. Though I also don't want it to fall off! And it seems like my two ring fingers are only like a quarter size apart maybe? So if I had to in the winter I guess I could wear it on the other hand? Or do you just buy a tighter spacer band to wear on the outside part during winter to make sure it stays on?

 

[dmack]

4- This is more a question. The CAD picture that is one from the left, the view when you are looking straight down at the ring—once it’s done and on your finger, from that view you would just see diamonds and prongs, not the metal you see on the long side (top and bottom of that particular picture), correct?

I’m curious to know the answer to this too, because in the CAD the metal is noticeable and takes away from the visual gradation. It seems like you’re seeing the trellis swoops as they rise to meet the .30 side stones. I’d ask them about this - and if you wind up getting a wax or plastic model like someone suggested above, that will help you visualize it.

Re: sizing I’d advise erring on the side of larger, but I’m someone who can tolerate spinning and canNOT tolerate a too-small ring. That said, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t resize this down the line - but it would be another thing worth confirming with them just for peace of mind.

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

I’m curious to know the answer to this too, because in the CAD the metal is noticeable and takes away from the visual gradation. It seems like you’re seeing the trellis swoops as they rise to meet the .30 side stones. I’d ask them about this - and if you wind up getting a wax or plastic model like someone suggested above, that will help you visualize it.

Re: sizing I’d advise erring on the side of larger, but I’m someone who can tolerate spinning and canNOT tolerate a too-small ring. That said, I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t resize this down the line - but it would be another thing worth confirming with them just for peace of mind.

I just sent them a bunch of questions including those. Yeah, I really wasn't sure what that meant in that CAD picture. And I will ask that resize question now! Appreciate your help.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

No worries. It is super helpful to have a knowledgeable perspective. You have been great. I appreciate all your thoughts even if I didn’t pick the proportions you suggested.

what do you think as far as the 2.3 mm on the band and the 1.4mm?

Good! I do think we all have different preferences and it doesn't make any opinions less valid! It always helps me to talk through projects, too!

I think I missed these measurements. Are you talking about the 5 stone or the wedding band? I wouldn't have any band/shank less than 2mm, personally.

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Good! I do think we all have different preferences and it doesn't make any opinions less valid! It always helps me to talk through projects, too!

I think I missed these measurements. Are you talking about the 5 stone or the wedding band? I wouldn't have any band/shank less than 2mm, personally.

Totally! It's been great to be able to think this through with others.

For the five stone as far as the measurements... not sure what I'm going to do as far as wedding band yet. I started to think about it then thought I better wait until I'm done this ring and I start wearing it...

Below are the pictures I am talking about -- the 2.3 mm was down the bottom on the left and the 1.4 (which I think I'm fine with?) is on the right:

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Totally! It's been great to be able to think this through with others.

For the five stone as far as the measurements... not sure what I'm going to do as far as wedding band yet. I started to think about it then thought I better wait until I'm done this ring and I start wearing it...

Below are the pictures I am talking about -- the 2.3 mm was down the bottom on the left and the 1.4 (which I think I'm fine with?) is on the right:

Yes! Now I see! I think those measurements are totally fine. I will say that my vintage 5 stone ring does taper down closer to 2mm at the base and has the same knife-edge kind of shank! So 2-2.3mm should be good.

 

[RingRingRingRingRing]

Okay, I know it's been a while but wanted to post so anyone who was curious or following this thread before could see how the ring turned out.

There is something I wish I would have caught when I was looking at the final CAD but overall I am happy! I had never done this before and I am now even more impressed by everyone on here who designs their own jewelry.

The stones are definitely really really gorgeous!

Thank you to everyone who helped me. It was very much appreciated.