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G vs. H

ElleElle

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2014
Messages
265
Hi! I am currently on the hunt (working with a vendor) for my dream modern round brilliant. Ideally a 2.5 carat G eye clean SI1, XXX or close to it.
I would love a G but we are coming up empty finding the perfect-for-me stone in this color with my budget. Question is- If I went down to an H would I notice a significant color difference?
Thanks!
 
I have a 2.55 H and it is matched with a 5 stone band (2.0 ctw) whose stones are G - and I cannot see any difference!! Hope this helps - good luck with your search!
 
canadagirl|1397448095|3653072 said:
I have a 2.55 H and it is matched with a 5 stone band (2.0 ctw) whose stones are G - and I cannot see any difference!! Hope this helps - good luck with your search!
Thanks that's reassuring!!!
 
You won't be able to differentiate these two unless you are a trained prof... I'd suggest to go anywhere between G-H-I as they all are near colorless. You may also try J color with faint or medium fluorescence.

Pls post the pics once you are done with your selection...

Good Luck!
 
Diamonds are graded for color face down. You'd wear the stone face-up and the MRB cut was crafted to minimize visible tint face-up. You probably won't be able to differentiate to any appreciable degree between a G and an H or a G and an I when viewed face-up, especially once the stone is set. How are you planning to have it set?
 
I would have no problem owing a G-H color stone graded by GIA/AGS labs.
 
Dancing Fire|1397459482|3653117 said:
I would have no problem owing a G-H color stone graded by GIA/AGS labs.
I completely agree. I have noticed little difference between a G and H especially once it's set if it is graded by GIA or AGS. Happy hunting!
 
With all things being equal, I would opt for a H colour stone, as I seriously doubt if I would notice the difference, except for the cheaper price!

DK :))
 
This is awesome feedback! I'm feeling better about going with an H and shaving a little cost off the top!
I'm planning a simple platinum solitaire setting similar to the style Brian Gavin designs.
Originally I had a 'Lucida' replica that I loved but the new stone size won't fit the old setting.
 
canadagirl|1397448095|3653072 said:
I have a 2.55 H and it is matched with a 5 stone band (2.0 ctw) whose stones are G - and I cannot see any difference!! Hope this helps - good luck with your search!
Do you have a photo you could share canadagirl? Would love to see it!
thanks!
 
I'm in the same boat. I just selected a stunning loose stone which I can't tell a face up difference between it and an F. I go look at in a setting next week. I wish the paper said F, but I guess no one gets to see the papers.
 
It is important to remember is that color is graded FACE DOWN. Where there is NO light return. Not face up where there is light return and refraction. You wear diamonds set. FACE UP.

Within one color grade, even the labs can't agree on the color grades of stones and something could be a "high" H or a "low" E. So... no. Not really. Within 2 color grades it is hard. Not impossible. But very hard. And it gets harder once set. If you are talking ideal rounds, or any stone with ideal light return and no sharp corners it gets harder still because the ideal light return masks body color.

Generally we say to be conservative stay above H.

This is how I think of it.

Ever gotten one of those HUGE paint fan decks? Where there are literally 100s of colors of whites? And when they are RIGHT next to each other you can TOTALLY tell that one is bluer/colder and one is a bit warmer and which one is one is TOTALLY warmer. One there's one that's slightly greener. One that's slightly pinker? But really. They are all white?

Then you pick one after agonizing over this white or that white and when it's on the walls and people are like: Oh. You painted again. And it's STILL white. Great.

And you're all... BUT it's BLUE white. Or it's a WARM white now. It used to be ____ white. It's TOTALLY different.

It's like that. You are talking about shades of white. D is colder... J is warmer. But it's all white.

YES. If you have an accurately graded F and an H THAT HAVE THE SAME PERFORMANCE you are going to be able to tell them apart when you compare them side by side. Just like you would be able to tell if you painted your walls a warm white, but painted the crown molding a cold/straight white. But both are STILL white. But you can see the difference because well, they are side by side.


I want you notice all the qualifiers thought. I'm talking about stones with the SAME performance. An ideal H will out white an F that has compromised light performance from a poor cut.

NOTHING impacts the appearance of a diamond as much as cut. CUT is king.

You want the shinest whitest and brightest diamond out there: Cut is King. No other factor, not color or clarity or anything else impacts how white bright an shiny a stone is.
 
I dont think you or anyone else will be able to tell the difference visually but ask yourself if it will bother you mentally knowing it's not a G. If you have always wanted G then IMO hold out till it comes along. My thought process is you want something that makes your heart soar above and beyond not just soar...
 
Gypsy|1398380288|3659419 said:
It is important to remember is that color is graded FACE DOWN. Where there is NO light return. Not face up where there is light return and refraction. You wear diamonds set. FACE UP.

Within one color grade, even the labs can't agree on the color grades of stones and something could be a "high" H or a "low" E. So... no. Not really. Within 2 color grades it is hard. Not impossible. But very hard. And it gets harder once set. If you are talking ideal rounds, or any stone with ideal light return and no sharp corners it gets harder still because the ideal light return masks body color.

Generally we say to be conservative stay above H.

This is how I think of it.

Ever gotten one of those HUGE paint fan decks? Where there are literally 100s of colors of whites? And when they are RIGHT next to each other you can TOTALLY tell that one is bluer/colder and one is a bit warmer and which one is one is TOTALLY warmer. One there's one that's slightly greener. One that's slightly pinker? But really. They are all white?

Then you pick one after agonizing over this white or that white and when it's on the walls and people are like: Oh. You painted again. And it's STILL white. Great.

And you're all... BUT it's BLUE white. Or it's a WARM white now. It used to be ____ white. It's TOTALLY different.

It's like that. You are talking about shades of white. D is colder... J is warmer. But it's all white.

YES. If you have an accurately graded F and an H THAT HAVE THE SAME PERFORMANCE you are going to be able to tell them apart when you compare them side by side. Just like you would be able to tell if you painted your walls a warm white, but painted the crown molding a cold/straight white. But both are STILL white. But you can see the difference because well, they are side by side.


I want you notice all the qualifiers thought. I'm talking about stones with the SAME performance. An ideal H will out white an F that has compromised light performance from a poor cut.

NOTHING impacts the appearance of a diamond as much as cut. CUT is king.

You want the shinest whitest and brightest diamond out there: Cut is King. No other factor, not color or clarity or anything else impacts how white bright an shiny a stone is.

Great advice and example Gypsy!!! Thanks for taking the time to explain this to me. It make a lot of sense how cut can turn a warmer stone into a brighter stone.
 
I found the discussions about color, here, very valuable.

Ditto for this video, as well.

A Consumer's Guide to Understanding Diamond Color: Part 2 What Diamond Color Is"

http://vimeo.com/3288695
 
thanks Ken I'vve always been alittle confused
 
KenD|1398621390|3661300 said:
I found the discussions about color, here, very valuable.

Ditto for this video, as well.

A Consumer's Guide to Understanding Diamond Color: Part 2 What Diamond Color Is"

http://vimeo.com/3288695
Thanks KenD!!!!
 
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