ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrings

[TravelingGal]

OK, I am going to try to keep this report much shorter.

I won a pair of studs from ERD (from the always gracious Mark Turnowski) awhile back, but since I have my WF .80ctw bezel studs, I found these .48ctw studs just sat in the box, unworn. I had initially given them to my mom to wear, but she did not, and recently gave me all the jewelry I gave her over the course of her life BACK to me.

After seeing Alj’s leverbacks on here many moons ago, I knew I wanted a pair, but these were too small to set by itself on a wire IMHO, so I searched for some time for a lever back dangle design idea I’d like.

Below is the basic design idea as well as the studs I wanted to reset. I wanted it in 14K WG as much budget was pretty small. But mostly I really wanted a smaller leverback, as stock leverbacks are not something I love. (more on the leverback issue in a bit.)

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

The Quote Process

I had found the above picture around the time my three stone ring was being made. However it did not occur to me (don’t ask me why!) to ask 23rd street for a quote because I thought they’d be out of my budget. Therefore, I got a quote from the following 3 etsy vendors which seem well used around here for a replica of the above with 14K WG, and also asked if a shorter leverback could be made.

Daniel M
Easily the quickest and most responsive. The lowest quote as well, and Caren thought adding milgrain on the edges would be a nice touch. They had to use a stock leverback and the only way they could make the dangle sit higher was to attach it higher up the leverback. Turnaround time was 3-4 weeks at the time of the quote.

Adzia
The most expensive of the three quotes, at 60% higher quote than Daniel M. I didn’t discuss turn around time or the leverback length due to the cost of the quote and thanked her for her time.

Sally at Heart of Water Jewels
Delay in response (due to no electricity) but she seemed pleasant. Quote was 41% higher than Daniel M. Again, we didn’t get into further discussion as I decided that Daniel M made the most economical sense. Plus I didn't want to ship abroad.


As I was about to greenlight with Daniel M, I thought…maybe I should ask 23rd street. I sent the pic of the earrings, and gave her my budget (based on quote for Daniel M). Their quote range was 4-13% higher. No brainer, I decided to do this with them locally, especially since the quote included a CUSTOM leverback.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

The inspiration and the chase for the right leverback

More than the dangle, the leverback was something I wanted smaller. Stock leverbacks tend to be a bit bigger and wider, and a lot hangs off the ear. I also wanted a more curved line, as stock leverbacks tend to be straight from the front top curve to the connecting point of the dangle. Pics below on my ear show what I was trying to avoid (the extra space off the leverback hanging low off my ear.) Also are the print outs of what I brought into 23rd street for our meeting of the minds.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

The Design Process

I have to say, this was just a lot of FUN. I was far less stressed about this project than my 3 stone ring, and less focused on finding exactly what I wanted. Joni took a look at my notes, and then it was off to the races trying on tons of earrings in the store! The first thing was to find leverbacks we could use as inspiration. As you can see from the photos I brought in, a few of the earrings were by 23rd street (all the earrings on the 2nd pics and notes page above), so I knew I’d have some options.

A word on leverbacks: All good in THEORY to have a pair hugging my earlobes closely and have the dangle right under, but apparently in the land of the California beautiful, everyone has slim earlobes too! I could not get most of the smaller shaped lever backs IN my ear, and when I succeeded, my poor lobes looked pinched like sausage links. NOT a good look. And I like my ears just fine, but discovered that like the rest of me, there’s a bit extra hanging around.

The leverbacks that we settled on were still smaller, and more streamlined, allowing me to get them in more easily. They did dangle lower on my ear, but they also hugged my lobes nicely. I was trying to figure out how to add an element to break up the plain wire, but Joni thought that diamonds down the leverback would be all the accent I need. Diamonds were not in my budget, and Joni just laughed and said “You know I love to add twinkle.”

Then she said the leverbacks would be white gold to make the diamonds look seamless, vs. the yellow gold of the dangle. Confused, I said, the whole thing is supposed to be WG? Joni thought I wanted yellow gold, and I told her yellow gold did not look good on me.

What I enjoyed most about putting this project together was that Joni, while being very respectful of my initial idea, wanted me to think outside the box a bit. Showed me all kinds of yellow gold, but I gave it serious consideration when she showed me a band that was gorgeous! I asked if it was 18K, and she said “No, 20K…a richer, warmer look for your earrings.” My simple (semi-laughing) response was “Joni, your initial quote for was 14K WG!” She told me again to not worry about budget and to focus on creating a beautiful piece first. And I admit, the band looked nice on me!

Her bottom line: 20K gold would make the diamond pop, vs. it blending into 14K white. They would hand treat the 20K with the same “rough” finish the band had. She thought the earrings in 20K gold would look more designer and less “commercial.”

COMMERCIAL? *Gasp*

OK, I was sold. I decided to trust her eye on this one, and she made me laugh with her facial expressions (delight at the thought of 20K earrings with diamond leverbacks), so I ran with it.

Below is the pic of the band that I loved.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

The earrings

Turnaround time was only 2 weeks! What can I say - I love them! They are a nice size without being overpowering. The gold is so warm and does indeed make the diamond pop! Because the dangle is a nice size, they hang lower on my ear than the project I initially envisioned, but I love the look, especially with my hair up! The leverbacks curve around my ear nicely, IMHO. Also, in what I assume was intentional, the dangles were added at an angle, so there is a left and right earring. With the angle, when I wear them, they turn toward my face allowing me to enjoy them more! And they are three dimensional (“puffy” was the world she used) like I wanted, instead of flat clovers/quatrefoils.

I would like to mention a final note on cost – these ended up being more than budget, but not much, and still substantially less than the Sally and Adzia quote. HOWEVER, I think because I’m a repeat customer, and because the design evolved from my initial quote materials by Joni’s design, I got a great deal. I think if we had gone with my initial idea of 14KWG, the price would have been even lower, and I think that the etsy vendors would have charged a lot more for 20K gold and the quote ranges would probably still line up. And they may not have been able to set the tiny diamonds down the leverback.

So what I’m saying is that I got some amazing earrings for what I know is a hell of a price, and I definitely would like to thank 23rd street and Joni for making it priority to create a beautiful, different, DESIGNER piece for me instead of focusing too much on my budget.

Oh, and Joni is still good for an awesome hug.

Enjoy the pics!!!

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

A shot showing the scale of the leverback in comparison to the earring I wore in the initial picture, and an ear shot from the side/back.

 

[ForteKitty]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Woman, you are wordy!!! Do you know how many times I had to refresh?!??

I LOVE THEM!!!!!!! They turned out fabulous!!!

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

And lastly, ear shots (some clear, some blurry to show sparkle!) Thanks for looking!

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Woman, you are wordy!!! Do you know how many times I had to refresh?!??

I LOVE THEM!!!!!!! They turned out fabulous!!!

HAHA, I'll have you know that there are less words and more pics in between this time!

 

[petit_bijou]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

STUNNING!!! I am not usually a lever-back fan, but these changed that! Just beautiful!!! They look so lovely on your ear, and the warm gold suits you beautifully! The contrast with the diamonds against your dark hair is swoon-worthy for sure!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

FAN-FREAKING-TASTIC!

I adore that gold.

 

[sixbillionstars]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Those are amazing ! I love the high karat gold. They look fab on you!!

 

[Skippy123]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Those are stunning and your last picture is my favorite!!!

 

[Burk]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

They are perfect!!! LOVE them!

 

[Orchid Lei]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Gorgeous! I love higher karat YG!

 

[coati]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

I love them. LOVE them. Ok, now I'm going to go back and read your details.

Did I mention that I LOVE them? (my bezel studs are now aching for a reset)

ps--gold is GOOD, and looks fantastic on you. (the texture is perfect)

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

I love them. LOVE them. Ok, now I'm going to go back and read your details.

Did I mention that I LOVE them? (my bezel studs are now aching for a reset)

ps--gold is GOOD, and looks fantastic on you. (the texture is perfect)

Thanks everyone!

Coati, the texture in macro photos looks a bit "gold nugget", lol. In reality, it's just a light texture and really a nice touch, so yes I agree it's perfect!

 

[coati]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

hehe "gold nugget" ..I know that texture very well irl. It is by far--my favorite high karat texture--delicate and rustic. I like the way it looks in macro too--broader.

eta: I'm uber picky about hammering and texture. You know how some jewelers' "hammering" looks like it was cast out of a mold?--can't deal. Yours is perfect--well crafted.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

hehe "gold nugget" ..I know that texture very well irl. It is by far--my favorite high karat texture--delicate and rustic. I like the way it looks in macro too--broader.

Rustic...excellent choice of adjective. Better than gold nugget (which let's face it - is bad 80's jewelry.)

When are we going to see your reset?

 

[Enerchi]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Those are amazing earrings, TGal!!! They fit your lobe perfectly (IMHO!) and the detail on the 20K gold is superb! I love the 'nugget' textured look - and the open airiness of the "petals". I also love the combo of the 2 golds - both make the 2 diamond features pop to their best potential! Fantastic design you and Joni ended up with! Congratulations on a job VERY well done!


(ps - I really LIKE your wordiness!! )

 

[coati]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

hehe "gold nugget" ..I know that texture very well irl. It is by far--my favorite high karat texture--delicate and rustic. I like the way it looks in macro too--broader.

Rustic...excellent choice of adjective. Better than gold nugget (which let's face it - is bad 80's jewelry.)

When are we going to see your reset?

LOL on the 80s nugget! When? hmmm. I've been crazily adding to my white metal collection of late. Picking up plat eternity bands for my JM. Sooo, backburner, but definitely on the horizon!

She thought the earrings in 20K gold would look more designer and less “commercial.”

COMMERCIAL? *Gasp*

OK, I was sold.

LOL Love it!! Congrats Tgal!! They are fabulous.

 

[Laila619]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Oh my gosh, those are truly gorgeous! You and 23rd Street seem to 'get' each other's visions, and they make such beautiful pieces for you. I generally don't even like leverbacks, but I LOVE those!! The 20k gold is a great touch.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

hehe "gold nugget" ..I know that texture very well irl. It is by far--my favorite high karat texture--delicate and rustic. I like the way it looks in macro too--broader.

eta: I'm uber picky about hammering and texture. You know how some jewelers' "hammering" looks like it was cast out of a mold?--can't deal. Yours is perfect--well crafted.

I actually can't say I know, as I've never looked at a bad example. I do remember Joni told me the finish would be hand done, but I don't think the dangles are handmade. They were supposed to be wax/cast, but she did think he did a more costly process in the end.

She initially also thought white prongs would blend better with the diamond. The jeweler disagreed and said it would ruin the flow. I personally am not particular about prongs and think I would have liked it either way, but the way it is now, Joni and I agreed with the decision of the bench.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Those are amazing earrings, TGal!!! They fit your lobe perfectly (IMHO!) and the detail on the 20K gold is superb! I love the 'nugget' textured look - and the open airiness of the "petals". I also love the combo of the 2 golds - both make the 2 diamond features pop to their best potential! Fantastic design you and Joni ended up with! Congratulations on a job VERY well done!


(ps - I really LIKE your wordiness!! )

Hehehe, thanks! In defense of my wordiness though, I tend to write these long reviews because when I research a project, I appreciate every last stinking details that people write here. In general PS posting, I prefer to be succinct.

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Oh my gosh, those are truly gorgeous! You and 23rd Street seem to 'get' each other's visions, and they make such beautiful pieces for you. I generally don't even like leverbacks, but I LOVE those!! The 20k gold is a great touch.

Well, so far we're two for two. I hope she stays there for some time because I'll probably be using them exclusively from now on. I still really love WF for a lot of jobs because it's a clear cut process, but having someone local and trying stuff on is priceless.

And Joni was happy with the results too, even asking me if I was OK with them making some for the store (I think they are going to use sapphires). I'm like, hey, it's really your design, go for it!

 

[Enerchi]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Those are amazing earrings, TGal!!! They fit your lobe perfectly (IMHO!) and the detail on the 20K gold is superb! I love the 'nugget' textured look - and the open airiness of the "petals". I also love the combo of the 2 golds - both make the 2 diamond features pop to their best potential! Fantastic design you and Joni ended up with! Congratulations on a job VERY well done!


(ps - I really LIKE your wordiness!! )

Hehehe, thanks! In defense of my wordiness though, I tend to write these long reviews because when I research a project, I appreciate every last stinking details that people write here. In general PS posting, I prefer to be succinct.

That's the part I love about what you write!! (And other's who are verbose when it comes to the details...) because that is all in the wonderful spirit of sharing - and how the rest of us learn and apply the knowledge to our own pieces!

Thanks for the research you do - it sure paid off for you - and probably for others in a similar situation! Always love what you have to say!

 

[yennyfire]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Wow, those are lovely!! You never cease to amaze me with your creativity!! Yay for another great addition to your collection.

 

[coati]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

hehe "gold nugget" ..I know that texture very well irl. It is by far--my favorite high karat texture--delicate and rustic. I like the way it looks in macro too--broader.

eta: I'm uber picky about hammering and texture. You know how some jewelers' "hammering" looks like it was cast out of a mold?--can't deal. Yours is perfect--well crafted.

I actually can't say I know, as I've never looked at a bad example. I do remember Joni told me the finish would be hand done, but I don't think the dangles are handmade. They were supposed to be wax/cast, but she did think he did a more costly process in the end.

She initially also thought white prongs would blend better with the diamond. The jeweler disagreed and said it would ruin the flow. I personally am not particular about prongs and think I would have liked it either way, but the way it is now, Joni and I agreed with the decision of the bench.

I agree with the jeweler with regards to the flow. They look perfect with the yg prongs. I've never been keen on altering prong color for the sake of the diamond--my personal preference is for design with focus on the cohesive piece. Same follows for setting rubies and whatnot with yg prongs but then using a white metal shank. Doesn't always work, but as usual--case by case deal.

I don't think it's necessary for handmade dangles--too costly. The hand finishing and overall design really make these special. And they are totally fab. I hope you get lots of good wear out of them!

eta: And thanks for the thorough and thoughtful write-up--your posts are always very helpful!!

 

[TravelingGal]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

Enerchi, you are too sweet.

Yennyfire, I am not creative at all when it comes to jewelry design. This is why I need someone like Joni (or a jeweler/designer), because I cannot simply direct a bench. It'd be ugly, I swear. There sure are a lot of PSers whose inspiration and design flow amaze me though. Not to mention eye for detail.

Coati, YOU have a great design eye...maybe you should start your own biz.

 

[Rosebloom]

Re: ERD Studs reset into custom 23rd Street Leverback earrin

I ADORE your new earrings! I've been working my way through the high karat gold thread and am officially in love. I hadn't thought of combining white and yellow in this way but it's perfect! Enjoy!

ETA: clearly you need that band too!