Engagement Ring Setting - Question on band width

[hamandcheese]

Hi everyone, I went to a local jeweller hoping to set my 0.9 carat diamond in a 1.8mm Pavé platinum band and was told that it's not possible to have the band width at exactly 1.8mm. I love the dainty band look and feel that it would make my small diamond look just a little bit bigger.

However, my jeweller insists that it's not possible to have the band width at 1.8mm because he mentioned that the width of the Pavé band is determined by the size of the tiny little diamonds on the band. He mentioned that I could either go for 2mm (where each tiny stone is 0.02ct) or ~1.6mm (where each stone is 0.01ct). There is apparently no in between sizing of 1.8mm because he said that it would be very hard to find the right sized tiny diamonds on the band to make up that 1.8mm band width.

Is my jeweller correct? It doesn't really make sense to me because I see online retailers like James Allen offering Pavé band settings at 1.8mm band width. I don't like the look of the 2mm band and 1.6mm width is just wayyyy too thin and looks like it could break easily.

Thanks everyone!

 

[kb1gra]

Hi everyone, I went to a local jeweller hoping to set my 0.9 carat diamond in a 1.8mm Pavé platinum band and was told that it's not possible to have the band width at exactly 1.8mm. I love the dainty band look and feel that it would make my small diamond look just a little bit bigger.

However, my jeweller insists that it's not possible to have the band width at 1.8mm because he mentioned that the width of the Pavé band is determined by the size of the tiny little diamonds on the band. He mentioned that I could either go for 2mm (where each tiny stone is 0.02ct) or ~1.6mm (where each stone is 0.01ct). There is apparently no in between sizing of 1.8mm because he said that it would be very hard to find the right sized tiny diamonds on the band to make up that 1.8mm band width.

Is my jeweller correct? It doesn't really make sense to me because I see online retailers like James Allen offering Pavé band settings at 1.8mm band width. I don't like the look of the 2mm band and 1.6mm width is just wayyyy too thin and looks like it could break easily.

Thanks everyone!

a 1.8mm band width is likely using stones 1.4mm or so and the rest is gold. 0.4mm is quite small, and something needs to make up the prongs, etc. My 2mm width bands use 1.6mm stones.

 

[hamandcheese]

a 1.8mm band width is likely using stones 1.4mm or so and the rest is gold. 0.4mm is quite small, and something needs to make up the prongs, etc. My 2mm width bands use 1.6mm stones.

Would you know the rough carat weight for stones 1.4mm? Would it be a bad idea to insist that he makes the band width at 1.8mm for me and just go ahead with the 0.01 carat stones and the rest would be platinum. My only concern is that I would end up seeing more metal than diamond if I insist he makes it at 1.8mm

 

[Tourmaline]

Jewelry stores and capable jewelers are not the same thing. If you want something specific and challenging, you should commission it from someone who is an expert at it.

 

[kb1gra]

Would you know the rough carat weight for stones 1.4mm? Would it be a bad idea to insist that he makes the band width at 1.8mm for me and just go ahead with the 0.01 carat stones and the rest would be platinum. My only concern is that I would end up seeing more metal than diamond if I insist he makes it at 1.8mm

Truly, I think if you are going to be this particular about widths, metal ratios, etc you should work with someone whose work you know has the appearance you want and then trust their judgement.

It's a judgement call to know how much metal will be removed in polish, how much to cut away, etc and the finer examples are finer because of the expertise behind them.

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

I think you mentioned that your ring will be with platinum and it seems that you were particular about prongs too. Given this, I think you really should consider working with a highly skilled jeweler to make you a hand forged platinum ring.

Here is a thread discussing hand forged vs casting:

Hand forged vs. cast. Pros and cons?

I have been trying to learn about the pros and cons of hand forged vs cast. Any insights? I’m having a ring made now by VC and it will be hand forged— but is this really any better than casting? Seems like more jewelers prefer the casting method. Any insights or pics would be great.

www.pricescope.com

 

[MWM]

I think I remember getting publicly outed on this board for advising against a specific band width relative to a particular small pave diamond arrangement that was being requested.
Making this decision is always about the math along with setting style, stone arrangement, and the boundaries that the setter is willing to stand by.

So far, no one has mentioned what setting style constitutes their image of pave'. I know what the term pave' references but the common use of the term doesn't mean what many think it means.

The projected numbers / millimeters in this thread don't mean a thing if not linked to some other parameters.
As you might know, I'm out of business until we relocate - so I'm not here to encourage ordering anything from MWM.

I have three established, highly regarded vendors for Ideal cut small diamonds. Seasoned PS players know the names of one or two of those vendors. Within the diamond sizes mentioned here, virtually any millimeter round, brilliant/ H&A can be ordered to fit the math and the setter's intent. In this range of smalls, no fraction of MM dimension is impossible to find.

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

So far, no one has mentioned what setting style constitutes their image of pave'. I know what the term pave' references but the common use of the term doesn't mean what many think it means.

The OP recently posted a number of threads relating to ideas for e-ring, prongs, baskets etc. Here is the one about pave settings that she considered:

Engagement ring setting advice: 0.9ct Round diamond

Hi everyone, would appreciate some advice on engagement ring setting for a 0.9ct round diamond. I’m generally a pretty simple person and love my items to look “minimal” hence I’m leaning towards the 4 prong setting. I feel like the 6 prongs just make the diamond look very cluttered? However...

www.pricescope.com

Not sure what she ended up deciding on as there were various options that she talked about and concerns around pave setting making her center stone not stand out as much as a solitaire. Then she contemplated doing a solitaire with plain band and a pave wedding ring but now it seems she is back to pave e-ring. Will leave OP to clarify what she is doing with the setting.

 

[hamandcheese]

The OP recently posted a number of threads relating to ideas for e-ring, prongs, baskets etc. Here is the one about pave settings that she considered:

Engagement ring setting advice: 0.9ct Round diamond

Hi everyone, would appreciate some advice on engagement ring setting for a 0.9ct round diamond. I’m generally a pretty simple person and love my items to look “minimal” hence I’m leaning towards the 4 prong setting. I feel like the 6 prongs just make the diamond look very cluttered? However...

www.pricescope.com

Not sure what she ended up deciding on as there were various options that she talked about and concerns around pave setting making her center stone not stand out as much as a solitaire. Then she contemplated doing a solitaire with plain band and a pave wedding ring but now it seems she is back to pave e-ring. Will leave OP to clarify what she is doing with the setting.

Aha yes it was tough trying to decide on a setting but after looking at a ton of pictures and seeing some rings in person at the store, I’ve decided I would very much prefer a 6 prong Pavé band over a plain setting.

and just as when I decided on the exact setting I want, my jeweler then tells me this 1.8mm band width I’m requesting for is not possible

So I’m actually at a loss about what to do because I’m based in Asia where there aren’t many options when it comes to setting jewellery. Shipping the diamond overseas just to get it set would be a hassle as well.

My options now would be to either settle for a 2mm or 1.6mm band - both of which my jeweler is comfortable making but I don’t think I would be happy with either because one is too thick for the look I’m after and the other is way too thin

 

[hamandcheese]

This is the exact setting I’m after:


The stone above is a 1.5ct hence it still looks dainty with the 2mm band.

 

[Diamond_Enthusiast]

@MWM I'm retagging Mark because he is an actual jeweler who makes hand forged platinum rings and may be able to offer you more ideas around your specific setting.