Emerald cabochon - does this inclusion pose structural problems?

[mellowyellowgirl]

@Pomelo that is what I’ve found to be the going price of Zambians. Give or take a few hundred depending on a particular shade. I don’t think they are particularly “high end” but there are some super glowy ones to be had at reasonable prices. Great if you want a giant bauble that looks good to wear on the metro

My Zambian photographs very badly. The camera makes it yellow and kills the glow. Was sold to me by a seller that I trust who insisted I should buy it but they were super sketchy about photos and videos. Haha after I received the stone I too sent them hideous photos of my ring with an apology attached: Sorry your ring looks so ugly I love it in real life, to which they responded “Now you understand why I wasn’t forthcoming with videos”

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

@Crimson I asked for a cab big pink hoping that it would be cheaper and make my search easier and got laughed at (not unkindly just in a “oh my sweet summer child there are no big pinks around in any form” kind of way).

 

[Pomelo]

I’ll have to look for that post . Here are few of most helpful lessons I learnt. Numbers 1-3 are courtesy of Alexander Laut who was very kind to me.
1. No oil doesn’t mean no resin.
2. Always get an emerald re-tested before you buy it, If the cert is just a few months old, that might be OK but anything older is not acceptable. This is related to point 3.
3. Emeralds can be cleaned of oil, tested and treated with oil or resin post testing.
4. Ideally, you should compare your shortlisted emerald with other emeralds, side by side. Don’t buy it standalone unless you are very confident of your judgment.
5. Training one's eyes is vital. I learnt to tell the difference between Vivid Green (Muzo) and regular Vivid Green.

Just for comparison with the Bayco stone, here is an Columbian emerald cab pendant that was part of my education. Nice colour, evenly distributed but with low translucency and very little glow. The supplier told me, “This is big, but lower quality.” They were smart to make it a pendant.

Thanks Crimson!
Would you say you’re colour sensitive by nature or its accrued through experience?

The reason I ask is, I have looked at diamonds for years but I find it difficult to see colour in them! Side by side I can just about tell the difference between a D and an I.

Plus, I’m always in awe of people who look at a colour and point to the undertones, talk about saturation etc.

Btw I love cabochons. Don’t let anyone tell you that cabs are inferior or expect that they must cost less than faceted stones . They have ruled for ages and have a timeless appeal.

Cabochons: A Love Affair

Renowned high jewellery, rare gems specialist - yellow diamonds, fancy colour diamonds, vintage, bridal, gentlemen’s jewels. Guardians of family legacies for half a century, creating timeless pieces worthy of collection. Discover our collections.

www.ronaldabram.com

Also on Ronald Abram - two emeralds, one cab and one faceted. About the same size, about the same price.-

Wow that sugar loaf is stunning! I think cabs just have an unbelievable glow!

 

[pomo_juice]

2. Always get an emerald re-tested before you buy it, If the cert is just a few months old, that might be OK but anything older is not acceptable. This is related to point 3.

Yup, esp. for no-oil emeralds! Usually, vendors won't certify unless you are sure to buy to make sure everything is without a doubt clear, and from what I've experienced, you choose one lab to guarantee the no-oil since it's actually a (slightly) different standard across labs. I've had vendors help arrange straight from lab to my house to make sure nothing is in doubt. It puts a lot of things at ease.

the 9ct Zambian can I showed earlier (photo reattached) is around 3.5k USD for minor oil

I hate to say this... pls don't come after me... but Zambian emeralds are priced much more affordably due to a lot of supply & darker body (no Colombian glow, which is wonderful on cabs). I'm thinking this might be the case here.

 

[Pomelo]

Yup, esp. for no-oil emeralds! Usually, vendors won't certify unless you are sure to buy to make sure everything is without a doubt clear, and from what I've experienced, you choose one lab to guarantee the no-oil since it's actually a (slightly) different standard across labs. I've had vendors help arrange straight from lab to my house to make sure nothing is in doubt. It puts a lot of things at ease.



I hate to say this... pls don't come after me... but Zambian emeralds are priced much more affordably due to a lot of supply & darker body (no Colombian glow, which is wonderful on cabs). I'm thinking this might be the case here.

Thank you! I’m looking forward to comparing them at the HK show!

 

[Crimson]

Thanks Crimson!
Would you say you’re colour sensitive by nature or its accrued through experience?

The reason I ask is, I have looked at diamonds for years but I find it difficult to see colour in them! Side by side I can just about tell the difference between a D and an I.

Plus, I’m always in awe of people who look at a colour and point to the undertones, talk about saturation etc.



Wow that sugar loaf is stunning! I think cabs just have an unbelievable glow!

Colourless or near colourless diamonds are colour graded with the stone face down. It is easier to differentiate upside down because the flashes and scintillation don’t get in the way of colour perception. That is why it isn’t as easy to tell face-up and also why with colourless diamonds, especially when set, it is often fine not to buy D or E as long as the cut is excellent. So there is nothing wrong with your perception!

https://www.gia.edu/gia-about/4cs-color

I am more sensitive to colour, light, sound etc. Just built that way. I think it is possible for most people to learn to improve their ability to differentiate tones and hues. However, for my friends who are colour blind, coloured stones present an interesting challenge.

 

[Odyssey44]

I’ll have to look for that post . Here are few of most helpful lessons I learnt. Numbers 1-3 are courtesy of Alexander Laut who was very kind to me.
1. No oil doesn’t mean no resin.
2. Always get an emerald re-tested before you buy it, If the cert is just a few months old, that might be OK but anything older is not acceptable. This is related to point 3.
3. Emeralds can be cleaned of oil, tested and treated with oil or resin post testing.
4. Ideally, you should compare your shortlisted emerald with other emeralds, side by side. Don’t buy it standalone unless you are very confident of your judgment.
5. Training one's eyes is vital. I learnt to tell the difference between Vivid Green (Muzo) and regular Vivid Green.

Just for comparison with the Bayco stone, here is an Columbian emerald cab pendant that was part of my education. Nice colour, evenly distributed but with low translucency and very little glow. The supplier told me, “This is big, but lower quality.” They were smart to make it a pendant.

Super helpful as always Crimson! I have my learner permit only for emeralds.
I posted the Bayco stone for fun. Besides the quality issues, I thought I had finally found something too big to wear in a ring. Maybe not though!

 

[Crimson]

Super helpful as always Crimson! I have my learner permit only for emeralds.
I posted the Bayco stone for fun. Besides the quality issues, I thought I had finally found something too big to wear in a ring. Maybe not though!

Haha, it was fun!
In China, as @Pomelo knows, cabochons are called “egg shapes” and there are different egg sizes - like quail’s egg, pigeon’s egg and this - well, almost a hen’s egg.

 

[pomo_juice]

forward to comparing them at the HK show

Nice! I hope you have a lot of fun and see some drool worthy stuff. I'm hoping to go to the March 2026 show if work permits

 

[Pomelo]

Haha, it was fun!
In China, as @Pomelo knows, cabochons are called “egg shapes” and there are different egg sizes - like quail’s egg, pigeon’s egg and this - well, almost a hen’s egg.

Just for fun - I’m travelling in Urumqi (Xinjiang, China) at the moment and found a baked swan’s egg!

Now this is an egg that I think is too big… maybe

 

[Odyssey44]

Haha, it was fun!
In China, as @Pomelo knows, cabochons are called “egg shapes” and there are different egg sizes - like quail’s egg, pigeon’s egg and this - well, almost a hen’s egg.

Ohhh, I did not realize egg shape was cabochon. It should have dawned on me after seeing that lavender jadeite ring that was advertised as egg-shaped. I was thinking it just meant big and roundish.

 

[Crimson]

Trying to share photos fr the HK show, fr various jewellers.
Update: pearls are still hot, some ppl are buying golden pearls because gold prices are so high - so might as well buy golden pearls instead.
Ruby prices have climbed yet again. High quality Mozambique no-heat rubies were going for USD10K for 1 ct. Burmese ones were multiple times that: Emerald prices are staple..
Like others on PS I am still unable to post photos, so will do so when the problem is resolved

 

[Crimson]

Trying

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Omg you did it @Crimson

You little champ!!!

PS any pink sapphires? I want to know if I did well with Chansey!

 

[Crimson]

Omg you did it @Crimson

You little champ!!!

PS any pink sapphires? I want to know if I did well with Chansey!

Ooh haven’t noticed. Of course you did fabulously well with Chansey!
More pics. The padparadscha … drooooool. The star ruby is pretty and so is the price.



Lakhi Gems usually has beautiful gems but these … speechless.

 

[Odyssey44]

Spectacular, Crimson! This looks like the dressing table of an actual Queen! Hope you are having a great time. Thanks for posting pictures!
And if you have a chance, I second Mellow Yellow's request for pink sapphire reconnaissance. Some of us need our own version of Chansey!

 

[Pomelo]

Not from the HK show but at the Sotheby’s High Jewelry viewing today… a beautiful cab from Bvlgari. The colour and glow can’t be captured on my phone!
Couldn’t hold it up though as the mount was deliberately loosened so you can study the loose stone itself




And lots of jadeite eggs of varying sizes. Including a proper swan’s egg! A lot of green… but I forgot to take a photo of the lavender beads and bangle

 

[Odyssey44]

Another WOW Pomelo! That cab reminds me of one of those electricity balls that strike where you touch. The glowing jade egg bubble is a beauty and I see you, cat's eye chrysoberyl!! What a specimen that is!

 

[Crimson]

Not from the HK show but at the Sotheby’s High Jewelry viewing today… a beautiful cab from Bvlgari. The colour and glow can’t be captured on my phone!
Couldn’t hold it up though as the mount was deliberately loosened so you can study the loose stone itself




And lots of jadeite eggs of varying sizes. Including a proper swan’s egg! A lot of green… but I forgot to take a photo of the lavender beads and bangle

Thanks, @Pomelo ! Lovely emerald ring and good that it is loosened to show there is no manipulation at the base. The jadeite earrings look nice and watery too!
I have attached the auction page with info about the emerald ring. The schorl is visible in the first two photos.
I have my eye on the ruby earrings !

EMERALD AND DIAMOND RING | 寶格麗 | 15.15 克拉 「哥倫比亞」祖母綠 配 鑽石 戒指 | High Jewelry | Jewelry | Sotheby's

<p>Set with an emerald cabochon weighing 15.15 carats, decorated with baguette and brilliant-cut diamonds, <em>size 5¾, signed Bulgari, numbered. </em></p><p><br></p><p><em>Accompanied by SSEF report no. 104918, dated 15 February 2019, stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with...

www.sothebys.com

The large jadeite ring is here

JADEITE RING | 天然翡翠 戒指 | High Jewelry | Jewelry | Sotheby's

<p>Set with a highly translucent jadeite cabochon of bright green colour, mounted in 18 karat yellow gold, <em>size 6. </em></p><p>Jadeite cabochon approximately 20.02 x 16.51 x 8.05mm</p><p><br></p><p><em>Accompanied by Hong Kong Jade & Stone Laboratory certificate no. SJ 244217, dated 18...

www.sothebys.com

 

[Pomelo]

I found one that I loved at the HK show!

She’s a 7.14ct freeform cabochon and I love that she's a little bit weird, just like me, ha! I forgot her measurements but if I remember correctly the face-up is around 11*9mm.

To be honest, I completely forgot about Crimson's advice regarding a cert until I was on the plane home and started to get buyer's remorse, but I've talked myself into keeping her regardless because I don't want to put the energy into finding another glowy, freeform cab again… She is uncerted but I reckon moderate (or now that I think about it, potentially even more treated eek!) as the seller didn't think she was worth doing a cert for. I've sent her off to GRS in HK and the turnaround time is approx 3-4 weeks so we'll know shortly.

A bit about the show:

I walked the entire section of the loose coloured gemstones exhibition hall and glanced at thousands if not tens of thousands of emeralds. Most stalls only had calibrated sizes, some didn't have cabochons at all, and others had interesting shaped cabs like hexagons, shields etc - but either the material or the cut lacked glow.

I only found two stalls with a freeform cabochon in better quality material and they happened to be very close to each other! So I hopped between the two and made a decision to get this one which was over budget and 3x the price of the other, but it's my one-and-done emerald and I won't ever regret going for more glow / fewer inclusions.

I feel so lucky to have spent a whole day at the mind-blowing HK show, but also for @pomo_juice 's "don't come after me" advice on Colombian vs Zambian. I initially wanted a big cab (14mm+) and Zambians fit into my price range, but being able to compare lots of specimens side by side - including top Zambian vs mid/lower-range Colombian - I realised that I preferred Colombian. The difference is difficult to capture in pictures, but I could see it in real life.

Also - @mellowyellowgirl , would you mind if I named my coloured stones after Pokemon too? My husband and I are massive Pokemon nerds and we regularly have Pokemon naming contests in our household



Indoors, low lighting - in the bathroom stalls at HK airport cos I was so excited


The three stones I bought from the HK show:




At the HK show itself, comparing with other emeralds

 

[Crimson]

@Pomelo, that is a wonderful find. II love this freeform emerald! It is glowy and watery. It reminds us to appreciate stones for what they are.
The cutter made a good choice - I think of this as an omakase stone.
I’d be interested to see how you set it!

 

[mellowyellowgirl]

Omg of course you can name gems after Pokémon!!! I don’t own it!!!! Don’t be silly!!!! I’ve always thought people who pitch a fit and claim things as their own are….. not nice!!!

Love love love your stone!!!!! S/he’s watery, glowy and gorgeous!!!

Do you have any more goss on the show? I want all the goss!!!

Is that a spess????

 

[Pomelo]

@Pomelo, that is a wonderful find. II love this freeform emerald! It is glowy and watery. It reminds us to appreciate stones for what they are.
The cutter made a good choice - I think of this as an omakase stone.
I’d be interested to see how you set it!

Thank you Crimson, an omakase stone - what a wonderful description!

Hehe I’ve been mulling over the setting too. One part of me wants to go minimalist - this emerald cab I saw at a Bonham’s auction viewing is probably my favourite emerald ring that I’ve ever tried on. But I’m not sure whether to go for yellow gold or platinum - do you have any views on this Crimson?
I’m leaning towards platinum so the setting is more low-key and it allows the stone to shine, but I’m also worried that the stone will look too cool-toned in it.
This ring is from the 1930s and I think it’s amazing that it still looks so contemporary.




The other part of me wants to go full maximalist, like the top row. I’m thinking cobblestone pave set in either platinum or black rhodium, but I don’t think it’ll be as wearable. I’m really enjoying wearing my emerald Cartier Eclipse ring stacked with a diamond eternity band.

All creations / inspiration courtesy of JAR.



My emerald and diamond eternity stack:

 

[Pomelo]

Omg of course you can name gems after Pokémon!!! I don’t own it!!!! Don’t be silly!!!! I’ve always thought people who pitch a fit and claim things as their own are….. not nice!!!

Love love love your stone!!!!! S/he’s watery, glowy and gorgeous!!!

Do you have any more goss on the show? I want all the goss!!!

Is that a spess????

Thank you!

Hehe what kind of goss are you after?

Yes that’s a spess and a tsav. I am now second-guessing myself as I saw a high-dome round/slightly sugarloaf spess cab that probably had more glow / better colour, but I love irregularity

 

[Starstruck8]

Hehe I’ve been mulling over the setting too. One part of me wants to go minimalist - this emerald cab I saw at a Bonham’s auction viewing is probably my favourite emerald ring that I’ve ever tried on. But I’m not sure whether to go for yellow gold or platinum - do you have any views on this Crimson?
I’m leaning towards platinum so the setting is more low-key and it allows the stone to shine, but I’m also worried that the stone will look too cool-toned in it.
This ring is from the 1930s and I think it’s amazing that it still looks so contemporary.

The other part of me wants to go full maximalist, like the top row. I’m thinking cobblestone pave set in either platinum or black rhodium, but I don’t think it’ll be as wearable. I’m really enjoying wearing my emerald Cartier Eclipse ring stacked with a diamond eternity band.

I love your stone - big, green and glowy. I've been looking for something like that for a long time.

On the setting: I love that 1930s ring. That's my sort of ring. I'd absolutely wear it. Plain, no-nonsense elegance is timeless.

Yellow gold vs neutral metal is an interesting question. One common good look is white/platinum body with yellow gold prongs or bezel. The yellow just against the stone brings out the green without dominating it.

On the neutral metal option: This is one of my favourites:

(Half trapiche emerald, set with axis sideways, brushed platinum, black spinels)

The grey and black setting lets the emerald colour speak for itself. Brushed metal reduces distracting highlights and darkens the tone to compete less with the darkish stone.

But I'm sure you will come up with something fabulous.

 

[Autumn in New England]

I'm here @Odyssey44! Aren't you sweet for thinking of me. Unfortunately... no grand getaways. Just working to support my habit. How is everyone?!

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

Ooh haven’t noticed. Of course you did fabulously well with Chansey!
More pics. The padparadscha … drooooool. The star ruby is pretty and so is the price.



Lakhi Gems usually has beautiful gems but these … speechless.

Those cobalt Kashmirs. I almost fainted.

 

[Pomelo]

I love your stone - big, green and glowy. I've been looking for something like that for a long time.

On the setting: I love that 1930s ring. That's my sort of ring. I'd absolutely wear it. Plain, no-nonsense elegance is timeless.

Yellow gold vs neutral metal is an interesting question. One common good look is white/platinum body with yellow gold prongs or bezel. The yellow just against the stone brings out the green without dominating it.

On the neutral metal option: This is one of my favourites:

(Half trapiche emerald, set with axis sideways, brushed platinum, black spinels)

The grey and black setting lets the emerald colour speak for itself. Brushed metal reduces distracting highlights and darkens the tone to compete less with the darkish stone.

But I'm sure you will come up with something fabulous.

“The grey and black setting lets the emerald colour speak for itself. Brushed metal reduces distracting highlights and darkens the tone to compete less with the darkish stone.”

Ooh I love this, and I’d never thought about the gold finishing before! Do you find that brushed metal needs to be re-brushed often? My 1930s inspo ring has a softness to the finishing, but I don’t know if this is nearly a century’s worth of patina!


“Yellow gold vs neutral metal is an interesting question. One common good look is white/platinum body with yellow gold prongs or bezel. The yellow just against the stone brings out the green without dominating it.“

Thank you for the suggestion. I was searching for similar two-tone rings yesterday but must admit that whilst I’d happily stack separate YG with plat/WG rings, my mind finds two-tone rings a bit confusing, so I think I’ll stick to one metal choice. The Bvlgari Trombino bombe on the left is fabulous though! But perhaps too much for daily wear for me…



Versus all platinum settings:



And when I jumble them all together (a different set of rings this time), my eye is drawn to the simpler, single-tone metal settings

 

[Starstruck8]

Ooh I love this, and I’d never thought about the gold finishing before! Do you find that brushed metal needs to be re-brushed often? My 1930s inspo ring has a softness to the finishing, but I don’t know if this is nearly a century’s worth of patina!

I've had the ring for 6 years and never had it re-brushed. The finish looks like new. But to be fair, I have err... quite a few rings. So, though I wear two rings every day, individual rings don't get that much wear. Also, because this is an emerald ring, I wear it with care.

On the 1930's ring (which I love!), I'd guess patina. All my polished gold rings seem to develop a soft patina pretty quickly, i.e. in less than 6 months. This, one of my first rings, and a similar design to the 1930s ring, is typical (or maybe a bit worse). It's never been repolished:


Not sure what to make of this. Maybe that while brushed finish will show severe scratches, it's less affected by normal wear that a polished finish?

 

[LilAlex]

I was searching for similar two-tone rings yesterday but must admit that whilst I’d happily stack separate YG with plat/WG rings, my mind finds two-tone rings a bit confusing, so I think I’ll stick to one metal choice. The Bvlgari Trombino bombe on the left is fabulous though! But perhaps too much for daily wear for me…

As much as I love some of the Trombino rings (and I do not love a lot of vintage Bulgari but some of those are amazing), you have such a clean design sensibility, @Pomelo, that I picture you with a very gemmy gumdrop/sugarloaf cab ring with not a lot of extraneous elements. You would run the risk that the uninformed will assume that it's not genuine or that it's synthetic -- since it lacks the "this is special" diamond fireworks. But your jewelry "wardrobe" suggests -- as I once overheard my dad telling my mom -- that if you wear it, no one will thinks it's fake.