Edwardian setting-all input welcome-thoughts & ideas?

[tlfiore]

Okay @rockysalamander now this IS getting scary! Are you sure we are not blood relatives somehow?

Initially, I was going to have something similar to an incredible JE Caldwell Ring custom made with a few permutations, primarily changes to the gallery to "enclose" the diamond and not have that "floating" appearance. But I decided the look was way to delicate and ethereal for someone with my hands, my age and my lifestyle (such as it is).

I LOVE LOVE LOVE this Caldwell Ring, which is similar to the ring you linked to above:
https://erstwhilejewelry.com/products/2-04-carat-j-e-caldwell-co-vintage-diamond-engagement-ring

 

[Karl_K]

The first ring in the thread is modern and cast.
I have seen that ring as a stock setting someplace, but can not recall where it was not stuller but one of the other bigger suppliers.
Which is why you see it all over.
You might have a jeweler go through their books and see if they can find it.

 

[rockysalamander]

Okay @rockysalamander now this IS getting scary! Are you sure we are not blood relatives somehow?

Initially, I was going to have something similar to an incredible JE Caldwell Ring custom made with a few permutations, primarily changes to the gallery to "enclose" the diamond and not have that "floating" appearance. But I decided the look was way to delicate and ethereal for someone with my hands, my age and my lifestyle (such as it is).

I LOVE LOVE LOVE this Caldwell Ring, which is similar to the ring you linked to above:
https://erstwhilejewelry.com/products/2-04-carat-j-e-caldwell-co-vintage-diamond-engagement-ring

LOL. I think we PSers often have similar taste! If you like it, it just needs a bit of scaling up for your stone.

If you want a nice and simple design that does not have a ton of bling, I think your edwardian is a good style. I also like this. I love bezels.
https://erstwhilejewelry.com/collec...7-carat-late-art-deco-diamond-engagement-ring

I also love these buckle-shaped rings. You could add the little frenchies at the top and rounds below. Not a ton of bling, but the lines and angles add a lot of interest.
https://erstwhilejewelry.com/collec...3-carat-art-deco-tiffany-co-engagement-ring-1

Gosh! I hope I'm not just confusing you....

 

[tlfiore]

@Karl_K thank you for taking time to post. Like you, I KNOW I've seen the setting somewhere as stock throughout my nearly 2 year long (well, longer) search. It is a very nice setting.

@rockysalamander you seem to love the Erstwhile inventory as much as I do. They do have lovely items but the PRICES & the MARK-UP! I adore the second Asscher Ring and setting you linked. I think the extremely plain lines work very well with the step cut, or emerald cut Asscher.

I've had that Edwardian setting tagged or saved forever now but felt it is too plain for my Eternity Band, etc, etc. There is something about the flow and aesthetic of the setting that I really love. It is so pretty yet the NSEW tri-prongs and the elegant diamond shoulders give the setting just enough pizzazz without losing the center diamond in the process.

Any additional ideas you might have for altering the gallery/bottom donut area of the Edwardian setting, while still retaining the "cupping," or low profile bulge (for lack of a better word), so it might stack or flow more with my eternity band would be sooo appreciated. You (like @msop04 & @diamondseeker2006 and so many others) have a great eye for beauty & design, IMHO!

 

[the_mother_thing]

@tlfiore have you had a spin through here: https://www.antiqueengagementrings.com/

Lots of lovely antique repro settings, and the prices aren’t out of the realm of reasonable, I think.

 

[tlfiore]

@the_mother_thing thank you for this. I am very familiar with Leigh J & Co, or J Nacht because of their wonderful inventory. My question has always been if they are able to fabricate a setting to accommodate any size diamond OR if you have to pick a setting listed as such for a specific diamond carat weight/size..

I believe I called them inquiring about settings, which resulted in a few phone call messages that were never answered. This was pre-CvB, pre-Casablanca, pre-everything...oh, this would be nearly two years ago. As I recall, I didn't get a warm and fuzzy feeling from their initial customer service at all. Just my recollection, so I backed off. I vividly recall this now.

Do you know anything about their fabrication and if they can create a specific setting to accommodate any size diamond? Thanks!

 

[the_mother_thing]

Do you know anything about their fabrication and if they can create a specific setting to accommodate any size diamond? Thanks!

Unfortunately, I don’t know anything about their fabrication process, options, etc. I just like to take a spin through their site from time to time to admire their pieces. I would *imagine* that they could modify their repro settings for different stone sizes, but I don’t know for certain. It’s unfortunate they weren’t responsive to your requests. Their loss, for sure.

 

[rockysalamander]

For the setting you loved.'
1) Widen the shank so that bottom thickness is closer to the top donut to keep band level vertically. Using this DBL example which I love. This donut sticks out too far compared to the bottom for a ring to be level. For this to work, you need to reduce the donut diameter and widen the shank. Even a filler band won't be level.

2) Use taller/thicker donut to raise the head of the gallery up. The CAD designer will need to work out the exact height.
3) Suck in the bottom of the cupped gallery at the bottom so it stick out a bit less when viewer. So, this shape, but with the cupping design. You want the widest part of the cup above your wedding band.

4) You can flare/wide the top of the shoulder as long as that flare is above the height of your wedding band.

 

[Paisley2628]

It may be worthwhile to reach out to Leigh J. Nacht one more time. Last year I helped my son with the purchase of a reproduction setting for an engagement ring. All of my dealings were with Winona. She was very helpful and always responded quickly to any questions I had. I am not sure though that they customize their settings for a larger diamond.
I have a collection of antique jewelry catalogues, and I have been looking through them to see if I can find a ring design that you are looking for. I hope you find the perfect setting!

 

[rockysalamander]

Showing example of what you are trying to manage. In the Ering below, the band is riding on the bottom of the gallery. That set the closest distance the band can contact the ering. So, that create a big gap at the bottom where the two bands are under the finger. That band will "want" to lean away from the ering. With this kind of ring setup, you'll never have the band level. So, you need to get the Wband closer (raise the gallery and add a donut to keep the wedding band prongs off the ering shank) and then widen the shank to make the contact more consistent. You still need a little separator band to avoid fighting the wband prongs. The more narrow the shank under the finger, the more impossible leveling the band becomes UNLESS you use a shaped band as a filler. Imagine adding a band with a "squish" at the top. That shaped band will fill-in the gaps on the sides. So, a straight band will be less helpful than a shaped one.





So, this kind of shank works better with that bow-tie band. It can still be a tri-wire like your "love" setting, it just needs to be the same width throughout.

 

[tlfiore]

@the_mother_thing @Paisley2628 thank you for the replies. I'll take another spin through their inventory!

@rockysalamander wow, you are something else with designs and problem solving! Do you ENJOY this stuff 'cause it seems like you do! Me, I get a headache and queasiness in my stomach with all of it-lolol. I totally get what you are saying about altering the Edwardian NSEW style somewhat to accommodate my Eternity Band when I wear the two together.

Help me, please 'cause I am dense, I really am. Your ideas are spot on and I know necessary if I want to avoid/minimize that big gap between rings/bands. I like the wider/more substantial shank idea, which is what I'm looking for anyhow...nothing too dainty.

My concern is I will lose that lovely, "squat" and that beautiful low, integrated head & profile with the NSEW ring, IF I start raising the head "onto" or "over" a donut. To me, this look starts appearing more like a "change out" head, less integrated into the ring and more cathedral like. Am I wrong about this?

I guess what I love about the NSEW Edwardian Ring and that entire low profile look are those two elements...the integration and the low, squat-is profile.

Will this element be compromised if I choose to to stack the NSEW better with other stuff?

BTW...another ring I absolutely adore is @LLJsmom VC Art Deco Octagonal Ring. It's another one of those that I "love but likely cannot own or wear" rings. I love so much about the setting; however, I am not a fan of how "buried" the stone is in a tray of metal 'cause I think that aspect somewhat diminishes the highlights of the gorgeous cushion cut diamond. And VC's rings while lovely are a bit too utilitarian for my taste, just my opinion.

I've seen some of the beautiful items owned by @LLJsmom and she seems to favor this bulkier, denser, hand-forged design in solitaires. I've gotta say, her VC ring is likely one of my ALL-TIME favorite solitaire designs, hands-down, bar none. Her taste in jewelry is outstanding and her collection leaves me speechless. While I like the heft & simplicity of VC's hand forged stuff, I cannot sport that kind of bulk certainly, not with a two ring stack.

But I ADORE the BOTTOM of the VC design and how the entire ring is so seamlessly integrated. To my eyes, it's divine!




@rockysalamander do you understand my concerns?

And please dear PS friends, no worries...I am NOT going to "steal" the VC design, or any of his designs, ergot the wordy disclaimer above

As an aside, I actually contacted VC's team quite sometime back asking (kindly) if he would work with my out-sourced 1.91 OEC, my Edwardian Design and "merge" the two a bit with the octagonal bottom, etc. VC's team said "perhaps Victor would consider working with an 'outside' diamond when he is less busy (right...like when pig's fly) and they would get back to me." They told me to put in a work request, which I did. That was a few months ago and I've never heard back, didn't follow through because as I stated, the hand-forged designs are not quite for me.

So, PLEASE let's not have this thread go sideways into a VC dupe discussion. I just love the bottom of the Octagonal Ring...it is impeccable, IMHO! And so is Victor Canera!

 

[tlfiore]

Oh and one other add...as I think about it, I recall something important. I followed @LLJsmom and her VC design story ever so closely. And I know she, too had concerns about the bottom octagonal donut on her ring design and having it "not bee too small, etc." Somewhere in her posts, she mentions something akin to, "...and while VC is known for his small bottom donuts, I prefer a much larger bottom donut."

Again, I'm not stalking anyone but @LLJsmom IMHO has some of the finest and classiest taste in jewelry. I'm wondering if her concern may have been partly due to the wearability, stack-ability, keeping the ring low profile, etc. Just sayin'

 

[the_mother_thing]

@tlfiore I was just admiring that very setting on VC’s site when looking for examples of octagonal galleries for @Maisie ‘s project. I love that gallery!

 

[tlfiore]

@tlfiore I was just admiring that very setting on VC’s site when looking for examples of octagonal galleries for @Maisie ‘s project. I love that gallery!

@the_mother_thing oh boy...please don't get me started. At one point, I thought about re-mortgaging my house for that VC setting with a beautiful antique cushion cut diamond.

But as stated, I'm not a complete fan of how low the diamond is set in the octagon. And more so, I don't think that hefty, octagonal, vertical bezel/halo/collet design (that's what I call it) is something I can wear. Especially given the glorious hand-forged work (which I love), there's a lot of metal going on there! I simply do not have the lovely long fingers to do justice to such a gorgeous design.

 

[msop04]

@the_mother_thing @Paisley2628 thank you for the replies. I'll take another spin through their inventory!

@rockysalamander wow, you are something else with designs and problem solving! Do you ENJOY this stuff 'cause it seems like you do! Me, I get a headache and queasiness in my stomach with all of it-lolol. I totally get what you are saying about altering the Edwardian NSEW style somewhat to accommodate my Eternity Band when I wear the two together.

Help me, please 'cause I am dense, I really am. Your ideas are spot on and I know necessary if I want to avoid/minimize that big gap between rings/bands. I like the wider/more substantial shank idea, which is what I'm looking for anyhow...nothing too dainty.

My concern is I will lose that lovely, "squat" and that beautiful low, integrated head & profile with the NSEW ring, IF I start raising the head "onto" or "over" a donut. To me, this look starts appearing more like a "change out" head, less integrated into the ring and more cathedral like. Am I wrong about this?

I guess what I love about the NSEW Edwardian Ring and that entire low profile look are those two elements...the integration and the low, squat-is profile.

Will this element be compromised if I choose to to stack the NSEW better with other stuff?

BTW...another ring I absolutely adore is @LLJsmom VC Art Deco Octagonal Ring. It's another one of those that I "love but likely cannot own or wear" rings. I love so much about the setting; however, I am not a fan of how "buried" the stone is in a tray of metal 'cause I think that aspect somewhat diminishes the highlights of the gorgeous cushion cut diamond. And VC's rings while lovely are a bit too utilitarian for my taste, just my opinion.

I've seen some of the beautiful items owned by @LLJsmom and she seems to favor this bulkier, denser, hand-forged design in solitaires. I've gotta say, her VC ring is likely one of my ALL-TIME favorite solitaire designs, hands-down, bar none. Her taste in jewelry is outstanding and her collection leaves me speechless. While I like the heft & simplicity of VC's hand forged stuff, I cannot sport that kind of bulk certainly, not with a two ring stack.

But I ADORE the BOTTOM of the VC design and how the entire ring is so seamlessly integrated. To my eyes, it's divine!




@rockysalamander do you understand my concerns?

And please dear PS friends, no worries...I am NOT going to "steal" the VC design, or any of his designs, ergot the wordy disclaimer above

As an aside, I actually contacted VC's team quite sometime back asking (kindly) if he would work with my out-sourced 1.91 OEC, my Edwardian Design and "merge" the two a bit with the octagonal bottom, etc. VC's team said "perhaps Victor would consider working with with an 'outside' diamond when he is less busy ands they would get back to me." They told me to put in a work request, which I did. That was a few months ago and I've not heard back, didn't follow through because as I stated, the hand-forged designs are not quite for me.

So, PLEASE let's not have this thread go sideways into a VC dupe discussion. I just love the bottom of the Octagonal Ring...it is impeccable, IMHO! And so is Victor Canera!

First off, you aren't dense! LOL You just have trouble visualizing, so you need pictures to help -- and you know what you like when you SEE it... I'm the exact same way!

That said, I think you should really think about what is most important to you. Is it the style/overall look oF the engagement ring or is it being able to pair with your eternity? The reason I say this is because the rings you seem to gravitate toward cannot be both -- not without changing the design a lot. Those antique type rings are low set, and that is a lot of the charm, IMO. I really think that if you keep trying to "change" that style so that it fits with your eternity, you won't be completely happy...

If that antique "RC-type" setting makes your heart sing, then I wouldn't mess with the details that much. I think "raising this" and "reshaping that" will change the aesthetic that you love. FWIW, I'd put that big beautiful eternity on your right hand, pull out your dainty band(s), and get the engagement setting of your dreams.

Again, I'm not trying to be a pain... I just don't want you to compromise this time in order to fit your eternity. I want you to be totally happy. If that ring makes you happy, then make it happen. Don't change a lot. Get what makes your heart sing.

Let's do this. **fist pump** LOL

 

[tlfiore]

First off, you aren't dense! LOL You just have trouble visualizing, so you need pictures to help -- and you know what you like when you SEE it... I'm the exact same way!

That said, I think you should really think about what is most important to you. Is it the style/overall look oF the engagement ring or is it being able to pair with your eternity? The reason I say this is because the rings you seem to gravitate toward cannot be both -- not without changing the design a lot. Those antique type rings are low set, and that is a lot of the charm, IMO. I really think that if you keep trying to "change" that style so that it fits with your eternity, you won't be completely happy...

If that antique "RC-type" setting makes your heart sing, then I wouldn't mess with the details that much. I think "raising this" and "reshaping that" will change the aesthetic that you love. FWIW, I'd put that big beautiful eternity on your right hand, pull out your dainty band(s), and get the engagement setting of your dreams.

Again, I'm not trying to be a pain... I just don't want you to compromise this time in order to fit your eternity. I want you to be totally happy. If that ring makes you happy, then make it happen. Don't change a lot. Get what makes your heart sing.

Let's do this. **fist pump** LOL

You are something else. I think you get it and you are so helpful. I appreciate what everyone is saying 'cause they sense my ambivalence with the design. But I think you are very close to identifying what's in my heart...and brain.

@msop04 you don't happen to live in southern Michigan, so we can hang out, do you-smile
And @msop04 thinks, as she types, "Oh thank the Lord, Hell no, I do not!"

 

[msop04]

You are something else. I think you get it and you are so helpful. I appreciate what everyone is saying 'cause they sense my ambivalence with the design. But I think you are very close to identifying what's in my heart...and brain.

@msop04 you don't happen to live in southern Michigan, so we can hang out, do you?
And @msop04 thinks, as she types..."oh thank the Lord, Hell no, I do not!"

HAHAHAHAAAAA!!! Unfortunately, I live in Alabama, so if you're ever "down this way", please come hang with me!!

RE the antique RC style setting... truth be told, if I ever upgrade to an OEC or just decide I need a change, I have seriously considered that setting for myself. I'd wear two super thin bands with it (think 1.2-1.5 mm). One would be a prong set eternity and the other a plain knife edge (18K for one, platinum for the other, but not sure which). ...but I'm just daydreaming, of course.

 

[msop04]

Similar to these:

 

[Calliecake]

This setting reminds me a bit of the "signature antique setting" the Ring Concierge has... however, it's not an original setting, as it's been copied from an antique style many times over. It is a really pretty style... understated and delicate with just enough bling.



RC's setting:

@tlfiore, Please contact Nicole Wegman at Ring Concierge. I have spoken with her in the past and she is a wonderful. Her ring looks very much like what you are looking for and I’m sure she would be able to work with you to make you exactly what you want. I love her setting, it’s so delicate and beautiful. Good luck and I can’t wait to see your finished ring.

Thank you @MSOP. I immediately started searching for a pic of Nicole’s ring and then found you had already posted it.

 

[tlfiore]

@Calliecake thank you for the inout! Does Nicole Wegman @ Ring Concierge search for and locate settings, or does she work with a CAD designer/bench and have them designed & fabricated? I visited her website several times but I'm not exactly sure what it is she does...

 

[msop04]

@Calliecake thank you for the inout! Does Nicole Wegman @ Ring Concierge search for and locate settings, or does she work with a CAD designer/bench and have them designed & fabricated? I visited her website several times but I'm not exactly sure what it is she does...

Not Calliecake, but I'm pretty sure she has a bench make them.

ETA: I'd price check before going with one vendor over another... get a quote from DK as well.

 

[bludiva]

@Calliecake thank you for the inout! Does Nicole Wegman @ Ring Concierge search for and locate settings, or does she work with a CAD designer/bench and have them designed & fabricated? I visited her website several times but I'm not exactly sure what it is she does...

i don't know for sure but i heard david klass makes her rings, you could work directly with him as well once you have a design decided on. best of luck i hope this one goes smoothly and you enjoy it for many years to come!

 

[rockysalamander]

If you want to keep it low, as it is show, then you will have to choose between accommodating your wedding band and not. But, if you get a custom fitted filler/spacer that fills that gap, that might be the solution. My mom has an antique ering setting and wears a WIDE 10 mm band. So, she designed a custom spacer that sorta "locks in" to the ering so it does not spin. The shank of the ering is shiny, the filler is hammered and the wedding band is

I would not work with RC, based on feedback from friends, but I would work with DK. I think you could ask for them to show you your ring in the CAD rendering (based on your measurements of width and thickness) with the first CAD. You'll see in more concrete terms if they can be made to accommodate each other.

It will depend on the length of your fingers. I have large hands at 10.5 and long fingers, so so have lots of real estate. My mom is a 7.0-7.5 with arthritis and she always wears wider and thicker rings that me. She has a very clean art-deco/modern aesthetic...almost masculine looking. Her fingers are also thinner at the base than knuckle. Mine are even from knuckle to base.

If you would feel more comfortable working with a designer who uses DK as a bench, you could work with Elle of The Gemstone Project. She's lovely and very creative. She's accepting project right now.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

We know DK can do that ring because he did a very nice shank and shoulders on @msop04's halo ring.

That's always been my vote. Get the setting you want for your OEC, and wear one or two thin bands with it. I will still say I recommend a minimum of 1.8-2mm for any shanks or bands for longevity in daily wear rings.

 

[scarsmum]

@LLJsmom have you seen this thread yet?

 

[LLJsmom]

@LLJsmom have you seen this thread yet?

Hi Ladies. I am sorry but I completely missed this thread. I may have looked at it somewhere at the beginning, but I don't think I ever commented. @tlfiore thank you for your lovely comments on my rings and Victor's work. I think you had some questions about why I had the stone set low and "in a tray of metal" with a big base. I had to prioritize my "wants" based on my biggest concerns. I put it in a "metal tray" because I wanted most importantly to protect the girdle of the stone. It isn't extremely thin anywhere, but I am paranoid. That's just me. I didn't want a true bezel with a lip that folded over the girdle so I thought an illusion setting met my requirements. Yes, the stone is set lower. I am willing to live with that given that I get to protect the stone. I have had a mid-set stone and a high set stone, and I learned that I prefer a low set visually, and also because I knock it less. I wanted a bigger base that would force a gap with any band that I stacked with it. I wanted that. All that metal around means I can stack anything with it, even an eternity with diamonds that have girdles sticking out, and my center stone will never be touched. The worst that can happen is that diamond girdles rub against the platinum and the platinum gets scratched up. I can always ask VC to re-engrave and/or polish anything so it's not permanent damage. A ring is meant to be worn so I've chosen a design that lets me wear it all the time worry-free.

I did think that I would need time to get accustomed to the bulkiness of the ring because there is a lot of metal compared to the four prong solitaire with the pave shank I had prior to this setting. Surprisingly, it took no time at all for it to disappear from my line of sight and my mind. I think one of the primary reasons was how fine the work was. Even though there is a lot of "ring" there, the delicacy of the workmanship of the ring made it very light weight and difficult to even see. I mean it's hard for me to see the edge of the bezel because it's so fine. I can't see the prongs when I look at my hand. There isn't excess metal anywhere. Only the tiniest bit is there to hold the stones in place. The low setting makes it very subtle. Of course, that is only my opinion. Someone else wearing it may say "Oh my gosh. How bulky and squat."

I don't know if I have answered your questions or addressed your thoughts. If you have anything specific, let me know and I will try to answer more clearly.

Good luck on your journey.