Edwardian/Belle Epoque Ring

[CBianco]

Hi everyone!

I'm quite clueless when it comes to antiques, and saw a circa 1900 edwardian/belle epoque ring online that just made my heart sing as soon as I saw it. The center diamond is old cut 0.8ct K SI1 surrounded by rubies and rose cut diamonds. The ring itself is 18k gold and platinum, everything is original and in great condition (seller claims). The price is around $6500, is it considered within a reasonable price range for these kind of rings?

 

[fel]

I am not at all an expert like some here -- but I would say be careful. It looks like a reproduction to me, and the diamond has sort of an amorphous cut that won't maximize fire or sparkle. Also the ruby halo just seems kind of shoved together, and I'd be concerned rubies will fall out.

I would really be concerned that the ring might be one of these Indian knock-offs some sellers are hawking these days.

For that price I think you can buy a beautiful well cut diamond with similar specs and have your dream ring made by DK or others.

 

[kgizo]

Is the vendor saying K SI1 or is there a report for the center stone? I’m wondering if a few rubies were previously loose as the gold bezel isn’t continuously smooth and appears pushed in in a few places. The rose cuts on the outer design look poorly cut or dirty. Are there any stamps or hallmarks? The design is very pretty and I can see why it appeals to you. Do you desire a true antique or are you open to a reproduction?

 

[fel]

In comparison to the ring you are looking at, check out this ring, just for a sense of how these can be put together: especially look at the quality of the diamonds and rubies and how each stone is set. https://www.ebay.com/itm/313696345706?hash=item4909c25e6a:g:QLkAAOSwT1hhWKIH

 

[CBianco]

Thank you for the responses! I'm only interested in a true antique and not a reproduction. Honestly I wasn't even into antiques until I saw this ring, now jumping into this rabbit hole and wanting a true antique piece lol.

I was drawn to the ring because of the style, it was one of the very few antiques I saw that fits my personal taste so I could wear it and not have it sitting in a jewelry box.
But it was honestly the only ring (in my price range) that really caught my eye, probably because of the moval shape of the diamond and rubies that appeals to me. Other similar rings with round OEC didn't appeal to me that much, for whatever reason.

I did notice the outer edge looking a bit dull and the center diamond doesn't have the best cut, even for old mine.

The seller is a legit business and have very good reviews but I should still be cautious of course. Will have to think it over, I'm hoping to give myself a few days so I can forget about it, to spare my bank account too!

 

[kgizo]

If you proceed I would ask for a discount. Price seems a little high, but I haven’t purchased anything recently and may not be in tune to current prices given inflation.
The thing that gives me pause about it being a true antique is the gallery is very plain for a ring with such an ornate front. With Edwardian rings they usually have a design on the gallery (examples below). Of course, usually isn’t always so your ring absolutely could be an antique. It’s good you are working with a reputable vendor. Please keep us posted, and if you get it I’d love to see more photos

 

[VRBeauty]

Have you considered Lang Antiques? You can search by period. They’ve been around and in the vintage/antique jewelry business for a long time, they have a huge selection, and I’d absolutely trust their assessment of a ring’s age.

Late Edwardian/Early Art Deco Three-Stone Diamond Ring

A tantalizing trio of bright and shining diamonds, centered by a .80 carat European cut and flanked by half carat old mine cuts (all together weighing 1.80 carats) radiate shoulder-to-shoulder within an artfully designed mounting incorporating both Edwardian and Art Deco design elements...

www.langantiques.com

Art Deco .90 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring

Glittering diamond-set leaves, or flames, accentuated by decorative piercing, embrace a bright and shining European-cut diamond, weighing .90 carat, in this superb and stunning Art Deco engagement ring. The scintillating stone beams brilliantly from within a finely milgrained bezel-setting...

www.langantiques.com

 

[LightBright]

Like others, I question if this is a true antique. Style isn’t typical. Center stone cut/shape isn’t typical. It’s pretty, but IMO modern made.

 

[CBianco]

Have you considered Lang Antiques? You can search by period. They’ve been around and in the vintage/antique jewelry business for a long time, they have a huge selection, and I’d absolutely trust their assessment of a ring’s age.

Late Edwardian/Early Art Deco Three-Stone Diamond Ring

A tantalizing trio of bright and shining diamonds, centered by a .80 carat European cut and flanked by half carat old mine cuts (all together weighing 1.80 carats) radiate shoulder-to-shoulder within an artfully designed mounting incorporating both Edwardian and Art Deco design elements...

www.langantiques.com

Art Deco .90 Carat Diamond Engagement Ring

Glittering diamond-set leaves, or flames, accentuated by decorative piercing, embrace a bright and shining European-cut diamond, weighing .90 carat, in this superb and stunning Art Deco engagement ring. The scintillating stone beams brilliantly from within a finely milgrained bezel-setting...

www.langantiques.com

Thank you for the suggestion, I've checked out Lang's and a few other vendors that are recommended here but didn't see anything at the moment that catched my eye. The ones that did are either too expensive or recently sold. Will keep my eye out

 

[CBianco]

Like others, I question if this is a true antique. Style isn’t typical. Center stone cut/shape isn’t typical. It’s pretty, but IMO modern made.

I actually did see quite a few of this style from very reputable vendors too, so design wise I'd say it probably isn't uncommon for the belle epoque era. But I can understand your concern and thanks for your opinion

 

[kgizo]

I’m not familiar with this vendor so if you like do your research. They have a 14d return policy. Rose cuts look nice.

Corbette Ring Edwardian Era Circa 1905 - 0.75ct Ruby Ring

Edwardian platinum and gold ring featuring a 0.75 carat sugarloaf cut natural ruby, surrounded by single and rose cut diamonds.

www.estatediamondjewelry.com

 

[kgizo]

I have purchased from this vendor. They sell antiques and make molds of antiques and create new rings. This is a new ring with a synthetic ruby. Great price for the finger coverage if you change your mind about wanting a true antique. 14d return policy. Kind of tempted to get it myself so I need to stop window shopping

1920s Dress Ring #VR160514-09

This visually striking Art Déco cocktail ring features an enchanting cushion cut synthetic* ruby that is bezel-set within an elongated navette border that is bead-set with twenty-two single cut diamonds (total weight 0.40 cts, IJ color and SI clarity). The ring was manufactured in the 1920s but...

antiqueengagementrings.com

 

[LightBright]

I’m not familiar with this vendor so if you like do your research. They have a 14d return policy. Rose cuts look nice.

Corbette Ring Edwardian Era Circa 1905 - 0.75ct Ruby Ring

Edwardian platinum and gold ring featuring a 0.75 carat sugarloaf cut natural ruby, surrounded by single and rose cut diamonds.

www.estatediamondjewelry.com

I don’t think this is authentic either.

 

[LightBright]

I actually did see quite a few of this style from very reputable vendors too, so design wise I'd say it probably isn't uncommon for the belle epoque era. But I can understand your concern and thanks for your opinion

The center diamond cut Is not typical of the era. The lack of detailing of the basket is unusual. The scalloped shape of the halo is unusual for Belle Epoch, etc. if you are seeing quite a few of this style, it may be suggestive of a modern source. Does it have hallmarks? However, if you like it that’s all that matters.

 

[LightBright]

This jeweler does authentic looking extremely fine benchwork that could pass as antique (but he honestly admits and he should be proud of his craftsmanship, that they are vintage inspired). There are talented jewelers making what could pass as antique now, and the “trusted vendors“ of diamonds and jewelry often intersect with these talented jewelers in addition to those from overseas who might NOT admit the work is modern. This was not the case even ten years ago. There are very good replicas out there.

Alex Park on Instagram: "#vintageinspiredjewelry #antiquecushion #heartshapediamond #oldeuropeancut #singlecut"

1,454 likes, 54 comments - parksfinegroupinc on January 8, 2022: "#vintageinspiredjewelry #antiquecushion #heartshapediamond #oldeuropeancut #singlecut".

www.instagram.com

 

[pokerface]

I'm gonna be the odd one out and say that I think this is an authentic antique piece. The shape of the diamond is unusual, almost like an OMC moval - but I have seen a similar one before, and the fact that the cut is not so great perhaps increases the chances of it being old. I think I see some wear on the rubies, including the one just below 3:00 that looks like it's a slightly different color, indicating it had to be replaced. I like this piece much better than the others suggested here, and if OP wants an antique, it wouldn't make sense for her to do a reproduction with DK. If the vendor has a good return policy, I'd buy it and get it checked out by a reputable jeweler with expertise in antiques.

 

[LightBright]

I'm gonna be the odd one out and say that I think this is an authentic antique piece. The shape of the diamond is unusual, almost like an OMC moval - but I have seen a similar one before, and the fact that the cut is not so great perhaps increases the chances of it being old. I think I see some wear on the rubies, including the one just below 3:00 that looks like it's a slightly different color, indicating it had to be replaced. I like this piece much better than the others suggested here, and if OP wants an antique, it wouldn't make sense for her to do a reproduction with DK. If the vendor has a good return policy, I'd buy it and get it checked out by a reputable jeweler with expertise in antiques.

This is a great idea. I too like this ring’s design more than the others - it’s very pretty with a lot of coverage and I like that rubies and rose cuts are part of the ring. Taking it to an antiques expert is an excellent idea for peace of mind.

 

[LightBright]

I found this ring being sold for a different price, with detailed very close up photos. The center stone in those photos looks like an antique moval. It looks like an authentic antique cut diamond of a style that’s actually quite rare. However, there are modern cut antique movals advertised for sale that look similar. I can’t quite figure this out - it doesn’t quite fit inside the bezel -under sized very slightly at top and bottom. The ring looks authentic from the back (there is detailing etc.). In the vendor photos I found, the center stone cut looks nicer than these photos suggest, the table is fairly large and the crown is pretty flat. It’s a brownish undertone maybe K L or M, I’m guessing, that looks pretty to me. OP I would buy this ring and see what you think.

 

[CBianco]

I found this ring being sold for a different price, with detailed very close up photos. The center stone in those photos looks like an antique moval. It looks like an authentic antique cut diamond of a style that’s actually quite rare. However, there are modern cut antique movals advertised for sale that look similar. I can’t quite figure this out - it doesn’t quite fit inside the bezel -under sized very slightly at top and bottom. The ring looks authentic from the back (there is detailing etc.). In the vendor photos I found, the center stone cut looks nicer than these photos suggest, the table is fairly large and the crown is pretty flat. It’s a brownish undertone maybe K L or M, I’m guessing, that looks pretty to me. OP I would buy this ring and see what you think.

Thanks for your inputs, but I think I will pass on this ring for now. Even though I love it, it's still quite expensive and I'd rather save my money at this point to pay for gas lol