Does Bezel setting allow softer stones to be used?

[ChrisA222]

Question for the jewelry experts...

Would a bezel-setting be a better way to set a softer stone? That way, it would be protected, at least from the sides, right?

Im in the final stages of putting my "everyday" ring together to be re-done. Going are the three burnish-set 4mm Diamonds (one white, two blue) and they are being replaced by an east-west bezel Sapphire, and two bezel set smaller stones on the "shoulders" of the ring. I do not know what the term is for the "shoulders".

I am debating whether to buy another 4mm white Diamond to match the one I already have and using those, or possibly doing a different stone. I saw two matching oval white zircons on DB, that might look cool since the Sapphire is an oval. Would bezel setting protect those zircons enough? I would be OK with doing the two 4mm Diamonds but I am put off by the cost of a little teeny .25ct white Diamond...I mean, over $300 for a tiny stone like that? haha..it just irritates me as I didn't pay that much more for the 2.5ct Sapphire that I bought.

So, should I fork over the dough for the little diamond or would the larger, oval cut zircons be enough with the bezels? If the facets aren't exposed what is the risk of abrasion?

 

[T L]

Question for the jewelry experts...

Would a bezel-setting be a better way to set a softer stone? That way, it would be protected, at least from the sides, right?

Im in the final stages of putting my "everyday" ring together to be re-done. Going are the three burnish-set 4mm Diamonds (one white, two blue) and they are being replaced by an east-west bezel Sapphire, and two bezel set smaller stones on the "shoulders" of the ring. I do not know what the term is for the "shoulders".

I am debating whether to buy another 4mm white Diamond to match the one I already have and using those, or possibly doing a different stone. I saw two matching oval white zircons on DB, that might look cool since the Sapphire is an oval. Would bezel setting protect those zircons enough? I would be OK with doing the two 4mm Diamonds but I am put off by the cost of a little teeny .25ct white Diamond...I mean, over $300 for a tiny stone like that? haha..it just irritates me as I didn't pay that much more for the 2.5ct Sapphire that I bought.

So, should I fork over the dough for the little diamond or would the larger, oval cut zircons be enough with the bezels? If the facets aren't exposed what is the risk of abrasion?

The actual setting process may hurt a softer stone though. I have seen lots of stones damaged by bezels. Sometimes the setter will try to cover up the damage by hiding it with more of the bezel metal. I've even seen diamonds chipped by bezels. I suppose if you have a good jeweler, then that's a different story, but I personally wouldn't take the risk, but that's me.

 

[ChrisA222]

I didn't even think of the setting process...

Lets take that out of the equation...assuming the setting is no problem, would the bezel set be a good option for a zircon or not really?

What are the shoulders of the ring called, anyways? lol

Thanks!

 

[marymm]

I have a ring with a bezelled blue zircon - it is a ring I wear only occasionally and so far it shows no signs of wear - but it is a solitaire ring. I also have a pair of flush-mounted zircons flanking a Tourmaline - also an occasional ring.

But I tend to think of sapphires as hardier and would want a sapphire ring I was having made to be suitable for every-day wear - so personally if I were setting a sapphire as a center stone, I would prefer side-stones hardier than zircons. Could you still go with diamonds if you went smaller in size? If you did do the bezelled zircon supernovas and their facets became abraded, it would be an expensive fix - and likely you'd have to replace both even if only one was damaged since it would be difficult to find a match in the future... Or is this ring meant for occasional wear?

 

[ChrisA222]

Nah...I want to wear this one most days...so, Ill just go ahead and either do another 4mm Diamond, or some Moissanites to save cost. I guess if I go Moissanite, I can always pop them out and put Diamonds in at a later date. We will see. You're right though, its silly to fool around with Zircons when they would cost half the price of the diamond anyways, and then Id have to deal with the wearability issues.

I love Blue Zircon btw..and I'd wear one in a ring, but not the 'everyday' ring.

Maybe Ill get lucky and someone will list a decent 4mm RB Diamond on the 'bistro

 

[Michael_E]

If the facets aren't exposed what is the risk of abrasion?

If you can see the facets, then they are exposed. Zircon in a ring will eventually be turned into a frosted cabochon. This happens because the stone is brittle and any little knock will ding off little chips from the facet junctions. Over time all those little chips merge and make the stone rounded and frosty looking. If you're careful it might take ten years to get to this point, if not, then you should probably use a diamond.

Bezel setting works best on stones which have some rounding where the bezel meets the stone. When I bezel set most faceted stones I will get permission to round over the upper girdle edge slightly and then set the stone. When setting the stone in a bezel I can't see what's going on at the edge and so when the rounded sheet of the bezel meets a rounded edge the force required to bend the sheet is spread over the rounded edge instead of being concentrated at a sharp corner. This reduces the likely hood of stone damage to nearly zero. If you're setting something that's both soft and brittle, like opal, you absolutely have to have a rounded edge or risk almost certain damage to the stone.

As for protection, well a bezel does offer a bit more protection than a prong, but only at the very edge of the stone.

 

[ChrisA222]

I'd just use the two blue 4mm Diamonds, but they are the strongly greenish-blue Diamonds, and I don't want greenish blue with the Sapphire. The Sapphire is a deep blue, not royal, but deeper than Cornflower, and wouldn't look right with greenish blue side stones. They are beutiful, though...(and yes, they are nuked, which I understand...doesn't bother me)

Am I wrong with thinking that greenish blue and deep blue would look silly? Here is the existing ring (with the blue diamonds) and here is the new Sapphire. The Sapphire is going to be a little darker once bezel set...also, my camera de-saturates stones, it is pretty vibrant in person! It was from a PS'r, who had it bezel set in a pendant (I have that photo here too). Im also attaching a pic of the new ring style, although It will be white gold.

Im hoping to be able to use the existing ring to create the new style. Im pretty sure it can be done, or something similar can be created using the exising ring..it will be shipped off as soon as I decide what the side stones will be...

 

[T L]

I didn't even think of the setting process...

Lets take that out of the equation...assuming the setting is no problem, would the bezel set be a good option for a zircon or not really?

What are the shoulders of the ring called, anyways? lol

Thanks!

Well, it only protects the girdle, but not the crown or table, as others have mentioned. I personally also do not like bezels because they tend to cover the stone too much, and the face up tends to be smaller. Also, unless the jeweler is extremely skilled, many bezels to me look sloppy and uneven. Since you like precision cut gems, a bezel would hide a polished, faceted girdle, and some people like to still see the girdle. JMO.

 

[ChrisA222]

Interesting..well, thanks! I like the look of bezels...this gem isn't precision cut though, and I won't re-cut it. Im taking advice given though, and putting something harder than Zircons in there as side stones...either diamonds or moissanites.

 

[RedSpinel]

I usually only like bezel set gems if they are cabochons. I did see 2 pictures of bezel set sapphires in an old gemstone book I had, and one was a natural canary yellow sapphire and the other was a pretty nice looking green sapphire (of all sapphire colors!) They were both in what appeared to be mens ring settings too.

But the one dark cloud hanging over bezel setting is, as others have mentioned, the possibility that the jeweler damages the stone while mounting it into the bezel, which happened to me.

 

[Quantz Studios]

Actually, there is just as much risk setting prongs as there is a bezel. Prongs have just a few contact points, amplifying the pressure put on any one single area. A bezel is able to spread out that pressure. There is possibility of damage no matter which way it's set, but dont rule out a bezel, prongs are equally as risky- if not more. Take a look at my avatar. It's possible to have a nice looking bezel that doesnt overpower the stone or reduce its face up size by much.

 

[chrono]

Bezels only protect the girdle so the crown facets are still exposed to potential damage. Also, should you want to switch out the stone in the future, either the stone has to be damaged in order to preserve the setting, or the setting has to be damaged in order to remove the stone safely.

 

[ChrisA222]

Well, for me, bezel is the only option, as I much prefer the look. I can't really see it reducing much of the size of the stone, either. This particular stone has zoning issues, but you would never really know that if it was bezel set. The sides of the stone, however, show a lot of "clear" Sapphire. I think that is going to help the stone in a way where it won't darken significantly.

Once I figure out what side stones to do, and then aquire the stone/stones, I'll send the ring and stones off and post the end result. If I take most peoples advice and stick to the 4mm Diamonds, I need to find one that won't break the bank! I already have one, but not two.

Thanks for everyones input!

 

[Quantz Studios]

Bezels only protect the girdle so the crown facets are still exposed to potential damage. Also, should you want to switch out the stone in the future, either the stone has to be damaged in order to preserve the setting, or the setting has to be damaged in order to remove the stone safely.

No, not necessarily. If someone knows what they're doing nothing has to get damaged. I've safely removed two stones from bezels that were able to be reset with other stones, and the stones removed weren't damaged.

Prongs dont protect any more of a girdle/crown than bezels do. No setting really "protects" the crown. Bezels are usually more protective, since they usually have more metal around the area where the stone is set and the stone is usually nestled into the piece, instead of some prong settings with the stone sitting up higher and out in the open.

 

[chrono]

Stonebender,
That's good to know but all my local jewellers (and bench) refuse to even attempt such a measure.

 

[Lee Little]

You are accenting a Blue Sapphire, why not use some White Sapphires for the flanking accents? They will wear the same as the feature.
Bezels or prongs being protective or not is not much of an issue but rather what you like. Bezels basically never let a stone accidentally fall out so they are more secure and will darken a stone. Prongs will lighten a stone and allow it to have a little more fire. Any style can be changed/repaired etc by a competent jeweler in the future if need be, however, with all Sapphires I doubt there would be a need. Remember to remove all rings before laying cement blocks or entering a boxing ring. Best regards, Lee