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Cut for Fancy Shapes

M

mao

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 30, 2018
Messages
17
Hi Everyone

I have searched around and haven't been able to find a answer so I'm hoping you guys could shed some light on this.
I'm looking for a pear shaped diamond. However since GIA does not grade the cut of fancy shapes, I am left to guess the cut by some parameters.

On James Allen, they list the pavilion and crown angles of some pear shape diamonds. Can i use these in the HCA calculator? I know it says it's for round shapes only, but would it work for pear as well? since half the pear is actually just a round cut.

How do you tell the ideal cut if HCA can't be used?

Also does strong flourescence always show up in sunlight? The JA advisor said it doesn't but I've seen many youtube videos where the strong flourescence diamond gave off a noticeable blue hue.

Thanks in advance =)2
 
No, you won't be able to use the HCA on pears. Fancy cuts ARE difficult but if you know what to look for you can find a really nice stone. A few things to look for...

Pears tend to have a bowtie across the widest part of the stone. You want one with zero to minimal bow tie. Watch this stone as it turns and the darkness across it and how it looks like a bowtie:
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/0.70-carat-d-color-vs1-clarity-sku-4049530

Now take a look at that stone again and look at the tip of the stone. Notice that the tip looks dark and mushy because the tip is not giving off flashes of light? Compare to this one, notice that you have flashes of light throughout:
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/0.70-carat-f-color-vs1-clarity-sku-3395886

What is your budget and list of wants? Several here can help choose a nice stone or narrow it down to a couple. From there, an ASET will help to determine what sort of light return a stone has.
 
Strong fluorescence is rarely an issue and the only way to find out if its an issue is to ask the vendor.

The 1.34 you posted above...is not bad...when the stone turns you can see nice facets pointing down towards the pointed end. The faceting pattern
isnt as "pretty" as I like to see. A little chunky but that may be a personal preference.
Let me see if there is anything else I can find that is nice...the 1.34 is facing up fairly large due to its depth.

Here are the only other 3 that I thought might be worth a look. The D would be my favorite. Not real fond of the H and the G may not be eye-clean.
Just not that great of a selection in the 1.2 large range under $6k.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-di...&Shape=pear&DiamondID=4046014,4355074,3895971

Let me check Bluenile real quick.
 
Hi @tyty333 , I agree the D color is the best one! Can you explain what you are looking for at the tip? I compared the D colored one with the one i posted and dont see much difference. Am i looking for how bright it reflects?

Sorry I am new to diamonds, and want to find a good one for the future misses :P2
 
The one you posted didn't look good on the wider end. It had a disorganized facet pattern. I like the 1.2 D SI1 that tyty posted!

If you see more, just post them here and people can tell you if they think they are good or not. It's hard to teach someone to choose fancy cuts, because those of us who've been here a long time have looked at thousands of diamonds and have developed an eye for them. I wish fancy cuts were as easy as rounds! It is a lot more work to find well cut fancy shape diamonds!
 
mao said:
Hi @tyty333 , I agree the D color is the best one! Can you explain what you are looking for at the tip? I compared the D colored one with the one i posted and dont see much difference. Am i looking for how bright it reflects?

Sorry I am new to diamonds, and want to find a good one for the future misses :P2
Click to expand...

So what I try to find...look for the rounded end to have a faceting pattern like a round brilliant. This will give you the best light return. Look for facets that
go from the center of the rounded in down towards the pointed in as the stone turns. Unfortunately, the pointed ends of pretty much all pears are "mush".
You just dont get good light return at the pointed in.

So ignore the color on this one and just look at the faceting pattern. You see a lot of well defined facets flashing on/off. You want the nice facets (the blue
lines) to extend down towards the pointed end and up to the top of the rounded in. The red area will be mush in pears. Some pointed ends are better than
others but its really the rounded end that will give you the light return/fire.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.00-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4259836
pear snip.PNG
Other nice ones just so you know what to look for...
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.04-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3768832
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.01-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-1924232
 
diamondseeker2006 said:
The one you posted didn't look good on the wider end. It had a disorganized facet pattern. I like the 1.2 D SI1 that tyty posted!

If you see more, just post them here and people can tell you if they think they are good or not. It's hard to teach someone to choose fancy cuts, because those of us who've been here a long time have looked at thousands of diamonds and have developed an eye for them. I wish fancy cuts were as easy as rounds! It is a lot more work to find well cut fancy shape diamonds!
Click to expand...

Thanks! I appreciate the feedback! I will do more research before jumping into a purchase :P2
 
tyty333 said:
Some pointed ends are better than
others but its really the rounded end that will give you the light return/fire.
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.00-carat-h-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-4259836
pear snip.PNG
Other nice ones just so you know what to look for...
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.04-carat-h-color-vs2-clarity-sku-3768832
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/pear-shaped/1.01-carat-d-color-vs2-clarity-sku-1924232
Click to expand...

Is depth something I should check for? It seems like the ones above has a higher depths % (64-68%). From what i read the ideal should be (59-63%).
http://niceice.com/best-proportions-for-pear-shape-diamond-3-stone-engagement-ring/
 
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