Custom Setting - What to do if not a good fit?

[PierreBear]

Hi PSers,

I'm not in this situation and am just posing the question for learning purposes when going the custom route. I was wondering if anyone has had a custom ring made that one wasn't happy with and what is usually the course of action the vendor takes? Sometimes it's just hard to see how CADS translate into the real product. Or sometimes you don't really know what you prefer until it's on your finger.

Do most vendors just keep modifying until it feels right? Or do they take it back and resale it? Or do you just take the setting and resale it or maybe set a colored stone in it? Would appreciate the thoughts on how to feel more comfortable with not being stuck with a setting.

Thanks in advance!

 

[BlingDreams]

Hi! When we were interviewing designers there were specific questions we asked along those veins:
How many times can we modify the sketches before there are additional fees?
How many times can we modify the CADs before there are additional fees?
Can a wax model be sent to us to look at prior to casting?
If we don't like the final product once all is said and done, what are our options/costs for having changes made?

I will say that every designer had different answers (some were flexible, others were very stringent). I hope that helps!

 

[PierreBear]

Hi! When we were interviewing designers there were specific questions we asked along those veins:
How many times can we modify the sketches before there are additional fees?
How many times can we modify the CADs before there are additional fees?
Can a wax model be sent to us to look at prior to casting?
If we don't like the final product once all is said and done, what are our options/costs for having changes made?

I will say that every designer had different answers (some were flexible, others were very stringent). I hope that helps!

Great questions to ask! Thank you!

 

[whitewave]

I relied a lot on Caysie's expertise and feedback. Does is look good? Can my stone pull this off? I would only go with a designer I trust, and I looked at it as I wanted a setting from CVB ID, not from "whitewave"...

 

[kmarla]

Those are all great questions! I'm in the process of having a custom setting done right now. I spent a fair bit of time with the jewellers discussing what I wanted beforehand and they told me I was very detail oriented, more than most haha. The first CAD I received was very close to what I expected and I only modified it once. Once I approved the CAD, the next step was the wax mold. They made sure I was completely happy with the wax before starting the production. I didn't think to ask what would happen if I received the finished ring and didn't like it anymore (talking about design, not workmanship). I haven't received the finished ring yet. The CAD's didn't show the milgrain or finished prongs but I was clear about what I wanted and it's all written down on the order. I'm confident if there's an issue with those final details they'll fix it, but I don't think I'll get to start over completely if I change my mind about design. I wish I'd thought to ask that question earlier though. My setting is not a super complex design so I think everything will be fine.

 

[LLJsmom]

I would put down the must haves in the work order. I would discuss to make sure that my must haves are doable before actually having it on the written work order. Also make sure that if things come up during the process of making it that would cause some of the things that are your must haves NOT to happen, that they would stop and consult with you and obtain your approval before they proceed with a different option or solution. This is so you have some recourse in case they take it upon themselves to make changes, even if it was because your original design could not be done, that you don't like. However, if you never discussed it or specified how you wanted it, then that particular feature is fair game.

 

[MollyMalone]

Hi PSers,
I'm not in this situation and am just posing the question for learning purposes when going the custom route. I was wondering if anyone has had a custom ring made that one wasn't happy with and what is usually the course of action the vendor takes? Sometimes it's just hard to see how CADS translate into the real product. Or sometimes you don't really know what you prefer until it's on your finger.
* * *

That's so very true. And why I think it's so important for people to "audition" various shapes of stones and styles of settings on their hand before embarking on the custom commission of a ring or even the purchase of a more "commercial" one (with rare exception -- most notably, James Allen & Blue Nile -- vendors do not accept returns of rings or settings & JA and BN will not accept returns-issue refunds on specially ordered pieces). And why it always concerns me when someone comes here with the idea that the e-ring should be a big surprise.

In addition to the possibility of a 3-D wax or plastic prototype before the ring is cast (assuming you're talking about a cast ring), some CAD-cast jewelers* will send you (for an additional fee) a silver casting of the ring before the actual casting is done, so you can make an assessment that's even more life-like.

Love Affair Diamonds/CvB has a "Try Before You Buy" program for some of their "stock" settings, but you are expected to pay the full retail price in order to receive one:
http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/solitaires-and-halos/
They are a jeweler, however, who -- it's been reported here on PS -- will have a silver casting done for a custom order.

It's also really important imo to sync the ring style with the jeweler, and mode of fabrication. There are designs that aren't well suited to hand forging, are better being cast, or die struck. And vice versa. The kind(s) of ring you decide upon should be in the "wheelhouse" of a jeweler, whose aesthetics are simpatico; you don't want to be a guinea pic for their design and bench work. So, for example, I wouldn't ask Erika Winters to replicate an antique bombe ring with lots of intricate piercings, etc. No jeweler-bench does everything equally well, and the best won't take on a commission that's not "up their alley."

* To eliminate possible misunderstanding for any future readers, let me add that you can't expect to get a wax/plastic/silver prototype for a hand-forged ring from, e.g., Victor Canera because of the difference in the fabrication of such rings:
https://www.victorcanera.com/education/jewelry/hand-forged

 

[marcy]

I've only had a few custom pieces made. The first one was an absolute disaster. To me it looked like a huge man's ring and I hated it. Naturally my complaints hurt the jeweler's feelings so it got a little tense. His second attempt was better but I still didn't like it and the end price was more than double what the first attempt cost me. I eventually had another jeweler alter it for me and I kind of liked it then but I rarely wore it and sold it for about 1/10th of what I put in to it. That made me realize it's like gambling; only spend what you are willing to loose.

The next few pieces I had made I had my husband draw out pictures showing exactly what I wanted. A few times the portions or angles were a little off what I expected but they were acceptable. One of my custom pieces turned out to be one of my favorite rings.

So my advice is remember custom work is always a risk but you can end up with something fabulous. I would draw out what you want from every angle and maybe have him show you his progress so if you want something changed it is not too late or as costly.

 

[PierreBear]

It's also really important imo to sync the ring style with the jeweler, and mode of fabrication. There are designs that aren't well suited to hand forging, are better being cast, or die struck. And vice versa.

Hello MollyMalone ! First off, thanks for the thorough response. Wow, I don't know if you are in the industry but that was very thorough and thought provoking. Perhaps the jewelry business could use a ring vendor consultant and you can match people up to guarantee a good custom result! haha!
Anyhow, I wasn't aware that the mode of fabrication should be considered when selecting a design. Could you please help me understand what type of designs are more suited for hand forging versus cast? I actually haven't heard of vendors using die struck or it isn't common talked about that I've naturally come across.

I agree with your point that you should stick with a designer whose style is their forte in your choice of design, but I don't think I've ever casually talked to a vendor who would honestly tell me "this design would be better suited for hand forging versus cast... you should consider using someone else instead." Does this not imply from some vendor's perspective that hand forging might be better than cast? Or is it just the vendor's choice in the type of skill they wanted to specialize in?

This might be the wrong assumption, but I assume that hand forging is most expensive but gives that artisan feel that might be indescribable. An heirloom piece as you often hear it being described. I wish I could see a sample of the same setting made in hand forging versus cast versus die struck to really understand the impacts of fabrication. I've seen some hand forged settings and I've seen some cast settings. However, I'm not of the expertise that if I see a setting that I would know what was used. Is it based on the complexity of the setting to know what type of fabrication to use? Or is the better question is to not focus on the fabrication used and go with the vendor who specializes in that type of design? Thanks in advance!