Custom Setting Question

[sfgurl]

Hi Again,

I met with an established (read: old time) known (yet small) Jeweler in my city. He does a very specific type of metal work and we were looking to have him set a center stone that we would supply.

Is it normal for there not be a contract for such work? Since the design is custom, I was hoping to have a sketch or something that he''d try and stick to. While he prepared a bunch at our meeting, when we spoke afterward about pricing, he indicated that he wouldn''t supply a sketch but instead said something like "How do you draw a dream"... huh? I was hoping to at least get a description on paper of what we would get (platnium, side stones, # of side stones, etc.) I asked if he ever had a problem and he said that recently he did have an incident where he provided the customer with something different that her vision and he remade the ring. I have no way of verifying.

Also, is it standard for diamond/stone setters to have some sort of insurance to cover the loss of the stone that we supply? He said they don''t have any insurance for such things. He also said that they don''t have any sort of agreement they work with. No formal contract.

Is this strange to fork over thousands of dollars (upfront, mind you) with no idea of what you are getting AND supply a stone valued over 10K - with not even a claim check or a receipt?

If this is the normal course of business in the trade, then please forgive me for seeming so distrustful. I don''t work in the industry but I do work with companies that provide services and there is always a contract involved.

In asking all of these questions, the person (who had been lovely and very detail oriented at the meeting and even over the phone when we were negotiating price) suddenly turned and made the comment that I should just spend the money on the stone and that his work may not be for me. He almost sounded insulted that I would even dare to ask such questions.

I''m not sure what to do. I really this person''s work and I don''t think anyone else does the quality of work that his workshop puts out. That said, I would like to have an idea of what I am getting and know that my center stone is safe while in their possession.

If you could please let me know what the standard course of business is in these custom setting situations, I''d really appreciate it.

Thanks.

 

[Lorelei]

Hi sfgurl

Is it a well known jewellery artisan out of interest? I am wondering because if so others might have had work done with them and might be able to offer you some reassurance or not as the case may be.

From what I understand I would expect the jeweller to have insurance on the diamond while it is in their possession to cover against loss or physical damage ( except during the setting process), however should in the rare event a stone breaks or gets damaged while setting, they might not have insurance against this or assume liability. Also personally I would not want to hand a stone over or any monies without a detailed receipt or contract for the protection of both client and company.

 

[sfgurl]

Hi there,

Thanks for your response. Is there a way that I can message you privately? I don''t want to broadcast the name of the jeweler publicly. I have done a search and others have used this company but I don''t think it is for the degree of custom work that we are seeking. Also, no one has mentioned an agreement or what has happened when they dropped off their stone.

Thanks again!

 

[Gypsy]

Yes, it is possible to sketch a dream. I work with Marketting creative types and get this BS all day long. But we can't write out concepts, ideas. If you can use words to describe what you want. You can write those down. Or sketch them. Please.

Here's what you need. FIRST, a I wouldn't pay cash. And if you do, do it with in a traceable manner (Debit card, paypal, cashier's check with a carbon copy, wire transfer....etc.)

Second you pay only HALF or less upfront. Rest upong ACCEPTANCE, not completion. But upon your review and acceptance of the product, if they are local that should not be an issue. I've worked on three custom projects now with three different vendors. Frist one was 1/2 upfront, 1/2 after I saw it. Second one was all after I saw pics (many many of them) of the completed product. Second one was basically 1/2 upfront, 1/2 completion.

Next you get an email or something that details exactly what you want.

1. 1 Ladies Ring Mount. Center stone (list details including certificate number) provided by client to be set into mounting.

2. List descriptive features of mounting... like: platinum catherdral mounting with custom hand wired gallery, octagonal halo with 20 1 point single cut diamonds f-g VS, prong set center stone with talon prongs.

3. SKETCH or 2 of the ring as discusssed.

4. A statement that final sketches will be approved by you in writing (email works) before work begins.

I've never had to actually to and request all of this. This is just a process that we went through and two of mine were "dreams" to be captured. It was all documented in emails, in invoices, etc. And yes, I paid cash for all of them. But one was a debit card, the other two were paypal.



ANY jeweler that is to proud to go through this process for HIS OWN and HIS CLEINT's PROTECTION AND PIECE OF MIND is a bully prima donna. And PERSONALLY, statements like, "maybe you should look somewhere else" are ridiculous bullying tactics that make ME do just that. There are A LOT of talented designers and metalsmiths out there.

 

[Lula]

Have you checked Angie''s List for reviews of this person? That might be a place to start. I imagine the person has done "business on a handshake" for years and that''s why he seemed insulted.

I have had a lot of custom work done, but it''s always been on more modest level (less than $2,000, and colored stones, not diamonds). My jeweler has never made me pay the full amount up front and she has always done a sketch and a wax, too, if the project required it. Will you be getting a wax mock-up before the work is done?

I am also uncomfortable with the insurance issue and with the fact that this sounds like a complex project with an expensive stone. I would be nervous having my stone set by someone other than the person I bought it from without at least a sketch, proper insurance, and a full payment on acceptance not completion agreement in the contract.

Have you seen examples of his work set with diamonds? Does he work with all metals, including platinum (it takes more skill to be able to work with platinum, I''ve heard). I don''t think it''s unreasonable to wait a bit until you feel comfortable with the transaction before you entrust your diamond to him; a professional should be willing to address your concerns, imho, without getting huffy.

 

[Gypsy]

While I am POSITIVE that MANY jewelers have the integrity to complete work on a handshake basis, and remake if something goes wrong, or refund, or do whatever else it takes to make their customer''s happy. WHY TEMPT FATE when it is SO easy to document everything (seriously it takes 1/2 hour of your time max) and make sure everyone (including the jeweler) is covered.

There are always stories like this. https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/help-my-jeweller-did-a-terrible-job.118060/ Sound familiar? Unusual design, cash transaction....

 

[sfgurl]

Thanks all for your thoughts and suggestions. My fiancee spoke to the company in question and feels better about things - even doing them the old fashioned handshake way. I''m going to see if we can draw up some sort of agreement (brief as it may be). I also want to see how long he needs the actual center stone for as I''d prefer to wait while it''s set to avoid any issues.

We''ll see. The only saving grace is that it seems that many people on here have bought things from this company or used them before, just not in such a custom manner.

If anyone has a great rec for a custom metalwork shop, I''m all ears as this is definitely not set in stone (no pun intended). Looking for someone who does nice engraving, etc. - vintage feeling.

Stay tuned.

Thanks again!

 

[Gypsy]

Okay engraving vintage...

OH, the name escapes me... they are here in san francisco... AH... Van Craeynest

Maytal Hoffman
Single Stone
Greenlake (although they are apparently SLOW, but their work is lovely)

James and Caleb might do that style... I would ask, their prices are reasonable.

And depending on your budget... McTeigue and Mclelland http://www.mc2jewels.com/

And 23rd Street Jewelers

(Boith of the last two are very pricey though).

 

[litebrite]

When I got my ring custom-made, I drew as good a big sketch as I could with as many details as I could fit and a life-size sketch with outlines of my hand and ring finger, and tried to scale the ring to that too.

I made notes of what design elements I wanted, and I paid a deposit for the work and received a receipt. I was fortunate that I could meet the designer, have my ring sized, and bring the stone there and see a wax, and then it was shipped to us once completed.

It was appraised independently before and after setting (this is one way that you can authenticate that it''s still your diamond.) We purchased stone insurance from Jewelers'' Mutual and have been very happy with them.

Some artists do contracts and others don''t. I can see for an artist why it would be insulting to have a contract. But a sketch and CADs (if the artist does them) and waxes are reasonable, as are specifics about the type of platinum, side stones, and number of side stones.

At the end of the day, I would go with your gut. If you feel queasy about turning the stone over to him, then find another vendor/craftsperson. The process of bringing a ring to life is difficult, and it helps to have a very defined design to begin with.

If you don''t have a full sense of what you want, it makes it harder on the artist because then there is more room for interpretation, and that interpretation might not be what you want.

You can PM me if you have more questions.

 

[sfgurl]

Thanks for these. I am definitely going to investigate other options. Is there any way to private message you? Thanks again.

 

[litebrite]

Sorry, I think there used to be a private message option. Has the problem been resolved to any greater degree?