custom setting fabrication questions

[klw98]

Hey everyone,

longtime listener, first time caller, as they say....

There''s tons of information on diamonds out there, but what about settings? I want to get a custom design made in platinum and would like to know more about the how they are made. What are the fabrication processes for platinum settings? I know about lost wax casting, which seems to be what 95% of the settings are, and have also heard of "wire formed" and "hand-made " (or is this "hand-forged"). What are these techniques? Are there others? How do the various techniques compare with each other? What does a top-end designer use?

More specifically, which techniques will result in a cleaner look? What would be the technique used to make a basket like that in the attached picture?

thanks for your advice.

 

[denverappraiser]

Fuzzball,

That’s an incredibly open ended question and there’s no way to give a concise answer. People get college degrees in this stuff. It’s like asking: What is the best way to cook? Baking works pretty well and can produce tasty and nutritious things but I hear there are other techniques that some chefs use. What’s the best?

The ring in your picture was probably assembled from individual parts using a torch or a laser. Those individual parts may have been themselves cast, die struck (like a coin), forged, extruded (like squeezing a toothpaste tube full of molten metal) or any of several other techhniques. The individual techniques that you listed all belong in this list. They all have their benefits and problems. Fabrication from parts has the benefit that each of the parts can be individually finished prior to assembly and this usually gives the craftsman the opportunity to do a better job of finishing the difficult to access areas, like the inside surface of the prongs. It also allows the jeweler to more precisely construct the setting to the exact dimensions for each stone. This all sounds pretty good and it is often the best way. The problem with this is that fabrication more labor intensive and the labor involved requires more unusual skills. This translates into more time and more money. Sometimes a lot more money.

Certain designs, like classical Indian jewelry for example, are almost always fabricated from many different pieces. It’s simply the only way to produce the desired result. Other designs, like Tiffany style wedding bands, are almost always assembled from die struck parts. Again, this is simply the most appropriate technique to produce the desired result. Which is "better"?

Neil Beaty, GG ISA
Independent Appraisals in Denver

 

[klw98]

Ok, guess my questions were a bit open ended.

More specifically -

1) What is meant by "hand-made" as opposed to wax casting?

2) Can the clean lines and delicate look of the basket in my picture be achieved with wax casting? what approach might be used instead? Sounds like the shank would probably be cast, but the basket would be made using some other technique.

 

[Brian Knox]

Hi,

As you have been told in the very excellent advice so far, the degree of finishing is both the most time consuming as well as the most important for getting that very refined look that I think you are after.

A good benchperson can get that good of look with an "off the rack" casted ring, but it can add a lot of time (money) to the project.

Also of note; sometimes crowns have to be custom made to fit a stone perfectly, not all diamonds are in the exact calibrated crown sizes.

As mentioned, be sure to show your potential designer/benchperson photos like this so they are aware of the quality and look you are after.

 

[denverappraiser]

‘Hand-Made’ is a terribly abused term. The problem comes from the craftsmans choice of tools. Is it still handmade if he uses a laser? What about if he uses a punch press? What if he has assistants that help with various task? It gets pretty complicated to decide and I solve this by simply avoiding the term entirely. A skilled jeweler will select the techniques and tools that are available and appropriate for the job, even if that tool is a robot that can produce 1000 identical units at once. The key is the genius behind the hand that’s directing the operations and the critical eye at the end that determines if the quality standards have been met and the piece is ready for delivery.

If the manufacturer of the ring in the picture used the term hand-made, they were probably referring to fabrication using individual pieces of wire for the prongs and the little ring that sits underneith the edge of the stone. By the way, they did a nice job.

Neil Beaty, GG ISA
Independent Appraisals in Denver

 

[klw98]

Thanks Neil. I agree that "handmade" is a terribly abused term, that''s why I''ve found it so confusing! I haven''t been able to get in touch with this manufacturer, but another one with a similar design said that by handmade they meant it was formed from wires.