Custom Ring Design - Need Your Input

[Wallyhenry]

Thanks to the valuable input from the PS community I finally pulled the trigger on a special super-ideal stone that I’m expecting to arrive on Monday!

Now to the other half of the project - the band design for the engagement ring...

I’ve been looking at a simple solitaire with a hidden collar design. Here are some renders for the design. It will be platinum. Still on the line about 4 vs. 6 prong designs and the knife edge shank (like Tiffany’s) vs flat or half round. Is there a difference in comfort? Looking for your thoughts on these renders and whether there are any improvements that you can suggest. Hoping to finalize the design in the next few days.

Since this is my first band design through a jeweler I’m quite unfamiliar with typical expectations from jewelers.

My jeweler builds the ring from CAD models directly without the intermediate “mold” review that some other jewelers do. Is this typical? I’m worried that there might be some glaring flaws in the final ring that are in fixable that could have been caught with a mold review.

The band will be built out of town and they gave me the choice with setting the stone either out of town with the jeweler that will build the band (for an extra charge for setting and insured shipping both ways) or in town with a jeweler that would set the stone into the band when they receive it (still there is a setting charge but a bit less).

They also charge for ring resizing and services such as cleaning. I know there is a big chance that resizing will be needed after I propose.

Looking for your thoughts on whether the jewelers services or lack thereof and extra charges are reasonable?

 

[Matthews1127]

Thanks to the valuable input from the PS community I finally pulled the trigger on a special super-ideal stone that I’m expecting to arrive on Monday!

Now to the other half of the project - the band design for the engagement ring...

I’ve been looking at a simple solitaire with a hidden collar design. Here are some renders for the design. It will be platinum. Still on the line about 4 vs. 6 prong designs and the knife edge shank (like Tiffany’s) vs flat or half round. Is there a difference in comfort? Looking for your thoughts on these renders and whether there are any improvements that you can suggest. Hoping to finalize the design in the next few days.

Since this is my first band design through a jeweler I’m quite unfamiliar with typical expectations from jewelers.

My jeweler builds the ring from CAD models directly without the intermediate “mold” review that some other jewelers do. Is this typical? I’m worried that there might be some glaring flaws in the final ring that are in fixable that could have been caught with a mold review.

The band will be built out of town and they gave me the choice with setting the stone either out of town with the jeweler that will build the band (for an extra charge for setting and insured shipping both ways) or in town with a jeweler that would set the stone into the band when they receive it (still there is a setting charge but a bit less).

They also charge for ring resizing and services such as cleaning. I know there is a big chance that resizing will be needed after I propose.

Looking for your thoughts on whether the jewelers services or lack thereof and extra charges are reasonable?

I agree with trying to keep your services all in one place. I really cannot elaborate on much more than that, pertaining to those logistics.
HOWEVER, I'd like to make a suggestion on the design of the setting, itself....
With the hidden collar, can/would you taper the shank, thinner to wider, from the center around to the bottom/back? I think if you keep the shank at a balanced width with the collar for durability, and widen the shank 0.5mm to a max width of 2-2.5mm, it will accentuate the center stone, and magnify the collar...
What do you think?

 

[cflutist]

I have a Tiffany fancy yellow diamond mounted in their knife-edge ring which I find to be uncomfortable. Other women may have a different opinion.

 

[Wallyhenry]

@Matthews1127 Were you thinking something similar to this design (perhaps a less aggressive taper?). I went over that design with the jeweler as I like the amplified centre stone effect. They mentioned that it would limit the options for the wedding band as it would also need to be tapered and we were looking at a full eternity band.

That being said, do you think the low collar would also limit the wedding band options as we would have to get a band that sits below the collarand Not cover the stones on the collar?

 

[Wallyhenry]

I have a Tiffany fancy yellow diamond mounted in their knife-edge ring which I find to be uncomfortable. Other women may have a different opinion.

Thanks for sharing your experience! Was it uncomfortable because the knife edge was too pointy/sharp?

 

[cflutist]

Is wasn't really sharp but it still bugged me.

 

[rocks]

Just my opinion, but the first sizing should be included in the purchase price. Seems kind of petty to me to charge for that.

 

[Matthews1127]

@Matthews1127 Were you thinking something similar to this design (perhaps a less aggressive taper?). I went over that design with the jeweler as I like the amplified centre stone effect. They mentioned that it would limit the options for the wedding band as it would also need to be tapered and we were looking at a full eternity band.

That being said, do you think the low collar would also limit the wedding band options as we would have to get a band that sits below the collarand Not cover the stones on the collar?

@Wallyhenry
I believe the term I intended was "reverse tapered". A straight band will still work with this style. It can be less dramatic, and the jeweler knows that. Here is an example:


The band does not need to be fat & round like the photo you shared; it can be subtle, and still create the accentuated center stone effect. I just thought it may also draw attention to the collar, as well...

 

[Matthews1127]

This is exactly what I was thinking....

A straight wedding band will fit just fine...

 

[rockysalamander]

Yahoo! I really like the collar being a bit looser. I feel like it can breath. Great improvement.

It is not unusual that a jeweler will use a casting house to make the actual ring. Some actually have them do the initial finishing. It sounds like your jeweler has the casting house also set all the stones, which is unusual (or unusual that they would give you this information). I would have your local jeweler set your diamond after being sure they have insurance on unset diamonds. You should also have it insured...I think Jewelers Mutual is the only company that insures stones during setting.

For an eternity band, the collar may or may not be an issue. If the eternity is low enough, like the picture below, it should not hit the collar, but that is pretty low.You have a bit of space under your diamond (see the air). What if you raised the collar a bit and had them insert a small round collar underneath as a riser? Just a metal collar beneath the collar like this Danhov. Then, your collar would be on top of that. You are not raising the head...you are only sliding it up the prongs and using the metal collar to provide connection to the shank.



Imagine the orange is the exact collar from the CAD, but simply slide upward to the point where it still is hidden from above. Then, they add a metal collar below for a decorate (and structural) detail. Still simple, but something like this helps give you room to use a variety of wedding bands. The metal collar can be shorter than I have drawn. If the shank is also narrowed at the top as suggested by @Matthews1127 with a reverse taper, this narrower metal collar will flow perfectly.


When you are ready for the wedding band, come back here and we'll give you an eternity band help too (dropping a hint that you should look at whiteflash ACA to go with the superideal main stone...).

 

[Wallyhenry]

Just my opinion, but the first sizing should be included in the purchase price. Seems kind of petty to me to charge for that.

I agree. I was surprised to hear from them that first resizing will come at a charge. There didn’t seem to be much of the aftersales support with that jeweller unfortunately. I would still like to stick with them though as they helped draft the CAD images.

 

[Wallyhenry]

Thanks for all your design ideas!

@Matthews1127 the reverse taper image that you posted looks very nice with a smoother taper along the band ... much better than the example I posted. I’ll talk to the jeweller. I think the narrowest they can go on the band is 1.8 mm, and I would like to keep the band narrow (~2 mm is fine). I will likely go from 1.8 mm width at the top to a max width of 2 the bottom (perhaps 2.2 mm depending on the end look)

@rockysalamander I expanded the collar thanks to your excellent recommendation from the other thread! I like the riser idea to account for a future wedding band. I will talk to the jeweller. I would like to ensure that the centre stone is not obstructed from receiving light due to a raised collar, so it will be a delicate vertical spacing act.

 

[Wallyhenry]

Is wasn't really sharp but it still bugged me.

Ahhh.... I guess it must be the the thickness of the band between the fingers. What do you think about half round/comfort fit ?

 

[rockysalamander]

Thanks for all your design ideas!

@Matthews1127 the reverse taper image that you posted looks very nice with a smoother taper along the band ... much better than the example I posted. I’ll talk to the jeweller. I think the narrowest they can go on the band is 1.8 mm, and I would like to keep the band narrow (~2 mm is fine). I will likely go from 1.8 mm width at the top to a max width of 2 the bottom (perhaps 2.2 mm depending on the end look)

@rockysalamander I expanded the collar thanks to your excellent recommendation from the other thread! I like the riser idea to account for a future wedding band. I will talk to the jeweller. I would like to ensure that the centre stone is not obstructed from receiving light due to a raised collar, so it will be a delicate vertical spacing act.

Glad to be of help. Keep in mind that a well-cut diamond, and you have one, only receives and returns light from the table. So, the setting being open to the side is simply an aesthetic. You could fully tube-bezel your diamond and it will still shine and sparkle like crazy.

 

[Matthews1127]

Thanks for all your design ideas!

@Matthews1127 the reverse taper image that you posted looks very nice with a smoother taper along the band ... much better than the example I posted. I’ll talk to the jeweller. I think the narrowest they can go on the band is 1.8 mm, and I would like to keep the band narrow (~2 mm is fine). I will likely go from 1.8 mm width at the top to a max width of 2 the bottom (perhaps 2.2 mm depending on the end look)

@rockysalamander I expanded the collar thanks to your excellent recommendation from the other thread! I like the riser idea to account for a future wedding band. I will talk to the jeweller. I would like to ensure that the centre stone is not obstructed from receiving light due to a raised collar, so it will be a delicate vertical spacing act.

Glad to be of assistance. 1.8mm to 2-2.2mm would work beautifully!! The slight narrowing near the center will reall make your stone POP!!

 

[Wallyhenry]

So I stopped at another local jeweller in town that has good reviews to look at their collection... and holy... was I impressed by their collection of bands and their custom designs... always great to see the actual rings in person!

here are a few rings that really caught my eyes....

A couple of channel mount rings in white gold. The one without the centre stone had beautiful stones in the channel and was very sparkly the photos don't do it justice..


Verragio replica on hold for one of their customers with white gold ring and yellow gold lace:



I later found this set on their website which appeared like a variation of the collar design I was looking at:


Aren't these gorgeous or what? Which one is your favourite?

 

[Matthews1127]

So I stopped at another local jeweller in town that has good reviews to look at their collection... and holy... was I impressed by their collection of bands and their custom designs... always great to see the actual rings in person!

here are a few rings that really caught my eyes....

A couple of channel mount rings in white gold. The one without the centre stone had beautiful stones in the channel and was very sparkly the photos don't do it justice..


Verragio replica on hold for one of their customers with white gold ring and yellow gold lace:



I later found this set on their website which appeared like a variation of the collar design I was looking at:


Aren't these gorgeous or what? Which one is your favourite?

I'm a fan of Verragio, but I also like #3.

 

[rockysalamander]

I like channel setting, but those scream the 'the 80s'. I love the look of verragio, but all that area for moisture and stuff between the double bands makes me twitchy. I have a coworker that never cleaned hers until i brought in my ultrasonic. That was some scummy water. We ran it through 3 times. I like the ring you are designing more than these!

 

[Octo2005]

So I stopped at another local jeweller in town that has good reviews to look at their collection... and holy... was I impressed by their collection of bands and their custom designs... always great to see the actual rings in person!

here are a few rings that really caught my eyes....

A couple of channel mount rings in white gold. The one without the centre stone had beautiful stones in the channel and was very sparkly the photos don't do it justice..


Verragio replica on hold for one of their customers with white gold ring and yellow gold lace:



I later found this set on their website which appeared like a variation of the collar design I was looking at:


Aren't these gorgeous or what? Which one is your favourite?

Not that there is anything wrong with these rings, but are you sure that this is the direction that your SO would like to go? They are so very different from the original ring that you were designing and a look that is taste specific.

 

[Octo2005]

Just my opinion, but the first sizing should be included in the purchase price. Seems kind of petty to me to charge for that.

Agreed, but if they are custom making the ring, why does it need resizing?