shape
carat
color
clarity

Custom dilemma?

Circe

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
8,087
Custom/ers - I could use a little advice. I had a ruby pendant made up for my 3rd anniversary (though, heh, now it's technically a New Year's present - the lovely husband got me the ruby baguette eternity band I'd been eyeballing for the anniversary proper!). The ruby is 1.11 carats, pear shaped with a very exaggerated point, unheated, Burmese, and gorgeous - it's been on my "Set, Match!" list for years now, and finally took priority. I went to my custom jeweler with the idea of an eternity setting, like a figure 8 curving around the stone, and, well, it looks like something got lost in translation (totally my fault - I am not the best artist in the world). It wound up being more of an omega setting with a twist. And I don't actually mind that! It's an interesting look, and it's growing on me.

However, something about the execution has me scratching my head. It's like it doesn't twist properly, or like one of the lines is off, or ... something. It's a crap rainy day here, so these are crap, fluorescently lit pictures, but ... would y'all take a look and tell me if I'm crazy? And, if you see something too, how you'd correct it? I don't want to ask him to remake the whole thing, but if there's a spot where a line could be etched, deepened, or added, say the word (or, better yet, apply the Photoshop!).

Just to be clear - I DO love it. I'm just a nitpicky obsessive when it comes to this stuff. I'm betting some of you know where I'm coming from? :rodent:

the angle that bugs me.jpg

face on.jpg

moving along .....jpg

the good side.jpg
 
A few additional photos ....

So, what do y'all think? Am I crazy and imagining it? If it's there, how would you fix it?

with my diamond pendant.jpg

bad side.jpg

good side.jpg
 
Until I saw the one of it on your neck, it looked perfect to me, but you're right, it almost seems...crooked? I'm not sure what it is about it that looks off.
 
The pendant tapers around the lower left quadrant (right if you're looking at the pendant, left if you're wearing it). The thickness is very obviously not the same throughout the "8". I don't know how to fix it though, I wonder if it can be filled?

ETA: It's a GORGEOUS pendant! Things of this sort can be expected with hand-made pieces, although the varying thickness would drive me absolutely nuts.
 
Yeah, there is something about it... I spent a while (and wrote way too much) trying to pinpoint exactly what it was, but I couldn't quite nail it down in my head, let alone properly articulate what I was trying to get at. It's really subtle, and I can't figure out whether what I'm seeing is part of an intentional design choice to make it look more earthy and organic (as opposed to being a hard geometric design, which would put greater emphasis on sleek symmetry).

Regardless, that is one beautiful stone. :love:
 
kama_s|1288888395| said:
The pendant tapers around the lower left quadrant (right if you're looking at the pendant, left if you're wearing it). The thickness is very obviously not the same throughout the "8".

That's one of the things that struck me (the others are that the bail is uneven and of variable thickness, and that the design appears to be visibly welded together at the top instead of having the lines cross over/under without an obvious join). I'm just not sure whether those things are intentional parts of the design or not.
 
Liane|1288888884| said:
kama_s|1288888395| said:
The pendant tapers around the lower left quadrant (right if you're looking at the pendant, left if you're wearing it). The thickness is very obviously not the same throughout the "8".

That's one of the things that struck me (the others are that the bail is uneven and of variable thickness, and that the design appears to be visibly welded together at the top instead of having the lines cross over/under without an obvious join). I'm just not sure whether those things are intentional parts of the design or not.

It's a wax cast, which may be part of it - I'm wondering if sawing through the line will make it work for a more obvious twisted effect.

The variable thickness on the bezel isn't one of the things that bothers me - I think that balances out the angle of the bail, and I see it as deliberate. It's definitely an organic piece - it's just the twist that's driving me batty! Thanks, Liane, Kama, MonkeyPie, and definitely keep the comments/suggestions coming.
 
Ah, I getcha. I'm afraid I don't see it, then. Sorry can't be of more help...
 
kama_s|1288890882| said:
Ah, I getcha. I'm afraid I don't see it, then. Sorry can't be of more help...

Heh - fair enough, and thanks for helping me pinpoint it! If the end result is a collective Circe crazy, that's one less thing to bother my jeweler with ....
 
I see what you means. I probably would have taken the part of the twist into the bail that is on top and twisted it more, if that makes sense. Like made it pivot a little more flat, so taken it another 10-15 degrees.... really hard to explain. But its an awesome stone!
 
Forgive my crassness, but on your neck, it looks like the stone may be coming loose? It does sit at a strange angle.
 
Hi Circe,

To my eye the bail looks a bit long, which may throw everything else out of proportion.
It depends on how much of a twist you were envisioning (top loop facing sideways or all the way around facing front?)

I've attached some similar shaped pendants - Which one most resembles your vision?

454p1bailadj1.jpg

454p1props1.jpg
 
rhbgirl24|1288893770| said:
I see what you means. I probably would have taken the part of the twist into the bail that is on top and twisted it more, if that makes sense. Like made it pivot a little more flat, so taken it another 10-15 degrees.... really hard to explain. But its an awesome stone!

RhbGirl, thanks! I think what you're describing is closer to what I initially had in mind: now I just have to figure out if there's a way to get it there now that the piece is done! I could just kick myself - I saw the wax, and figured all of the things that bugged me would get worked out in metal. Lesson learned - speak up, early and often! I do love the stone, so no matter what, I'll feel v. happy to wear it ... but some of the changes y'all are suggesting will get me even closer to utter contentment. :rodent:
 
reader|1288893938| said:
Forgive my crassness, but on your neck, it looks like the stone may be coming loose? It does sit at a strange angle.

You have an eerily good eye, or a psychic gift! As it happens, the stone is a smidge loose in the setting, so I'm taking it in to him tomorrow, anyway. It's miniscule, though - in the photo, I think it's probably just a weird light reflection, as I was leaning forward to get a good shot. Thanks, though!
 
HopeDream|1288897050| said:
Hi Circe,

To my eye the bail looks a bit long, which may throw everything else out of proportion.
It depends on how much of a twist you were envisioning (top loop facing sideways or all the way around facing front?)

I've attached some similar shaped pendants - Which one most resembles your vision?

You. Are. A. GENIUS!

That is totally what's been bugging me, and I just couldn't put my finger on it! Initially, I wanted something more like the green wax. When I figured out we'd crossed our wires so he was imagining something like the first version in white metal, I thought, "Huh, that could be interesting!" and let him run with it. But the finished result has been niggling at me since I got it - I think taking the bail down a hair, and maybe sawing through the line of the "twist" so it doesn't have that welded look Liane was mentioning should totally solve things ... if it's doable, that is. When I was asking him about maybe adding some metal via laser, he sounded dubious as to whether it could be done without risking the stone. Fingers crossed .... and, btw, I will totally be printing these out to show to him. Thank you so much!
 
Please keep us posted! I love the pear ruby, and think the combination with the pear diamond is just wonderful.
 
Circe|1288899376|2755107 said:
HopeDream|1288897050| said:
Hi Circe,

To my eye the bail looks a bit long, which may throw everything else out of proportion.
It depends on how much of a twist you were envisioning (top loop facing sideways or all the way around facing front?)

I've attached some similar shaped pendants - Which one most resembles your vision?

You. Are. A. GENIUS!

That is totally what's been bugging me, and I just couldn't put my finger on it! Initially, I wanted something more like the green wax. When I figured out we'd crossed our wires so he was imagining something like the first version in white metal, I thought, "Huh, that could be interesting!" and let him run with it. But the finished result has been niggling at me since I got it - I think taking the bail down a hair, and maybe sawing through the line of the "twist" so it doesn't have that welded look Liane was mentioning should totally solve things ... if it's doable, that is. When I was asking him about maybe adding some metal via laser, he sounded dubious as to whether it could be done without risking the stone. Fingers crossed .... and, btw, I will totally be printing these out to show to him. Thank you so much!

It is a beautiful stone it would be great if he could perfect the setting. For me the overall look seems to be cuddling and covering the gem rather than holding it for show. And yup it is all down to the twist; like it is being swaddled :confused: . I personally prefer the twist to the left of the green wax, but the green twist on your pendant would make ALL the difference. I hope he can see what you want from the new pics.
 
It looks like there's more metal on the lower left causing it the appear tilted to the left (in your neck photo - which I think is your right :cheeky: )
 
reader|1288949369|2755631 said:
Please keep us posted! I love the pear ruby, and think the combination with the pear diamond is just wonderful.

Thanks, Reader! I most definitely will. I have an an appointment to see him next week, which is good, 'cause it gives me the weekend to figure out exactly what I want done, and how. I figure I definitely want to have the bail taken down, now that I've seen HopeDream's picture: I definitely want the "twist" cut through, delicately, to avoid the welded look Liane describes ... now, I'm just trying to figure out if I want to keep the bezel as-is, or to have it thinned out a little to make it symmetrical. Right now, I feel like that little thickening in the lower right quadrant balances the bail, but if it's shorter ... decisions, decisions!
 
Steal|1288957613|2755648 said:
It is a beautiful stone it would be great if he could perfect the setting. For me the overall look seems to be cuddling and covering the gem rather than holding it for show. And yup it is all down to the twist; like it is being swaddled :confused: . I personally prefer the twist to the left of the green wax, but the green twist on your pendant would make ALL the difference. I hope he can see what you want from the new pics.

I don't mind the thickness of the bezel - since I'm planning to wear it paired with the diamond pendant pretty much all the time, I'm thinking it helps to balance the pairing out, visually the ruby's close to the diamond's carat weight, but, colored stones .... With the bezel, it brings it up to a similar effect.

Sadly, I don't think he can get it to the twist of the green without a complete redo, and I don't want to ask him to do all that - I'd be happy if we could get it to something approximating the effect of the white metal piece. Argh, joys of custom work!
 
Sparkly Blonde|1288964436|2755724 said:
It looks like there's more metal on the lower left causing it the appear tilted to the left (in your neck photo - which I think is your right :cheeky: )

Yep, you're right - that's deliberate, to balance out the bail, and not distracting without the magnification. I don't think I mind it, though if it's the first thing people are noticing, perhaps I should reconsider!
 
I agree with Sparkly blonde that if drew a line down the middle of the pendant, there is more metal on the left side (your right) when it should balance out. Also the thickness of the bezel changes from place to place, but not in a real definitive "design" going thicker or thinner as part of the design. It looks more like they tried to make it all the same thickness and failed. Also the curve of the bail is not quite right, it's like it's straight with a bit of a kink in it (I know I'm being way picky).

I do like organic and handmade (and bezel) pieces but this one I agree something about the execution is off.
 
First of all, I love the ruby and the design idea. I have something similar but with a smaller topaz and it has more of the green ones curve. I think that that is the problem, the loop does not keep curving to the left it, nearly seems to curve a couple of degrees to the right. As someone before me said, if you are able to shorten the bail so that the slight curve is not noticable it would fix it.
But I truly believe that no one seeing it as it is now would see anything wrong or off.
 
part gypsy|1288974723|2755904 said:
I agree with Sparkly blonde that if drew a line down the middle of the pendant, there is more metal on the left side (your right) when it should balance out. Also the thickness of the bezel changes from place to place, but not in a real definitive "design" going thicker or thinner as part of the design. It looks more like they tried to make it all the same thickness and failed. Also the curve of the bail is not quite right, it's like it's straight with a bit of a kink in it (I know I'm being way picky).

I do like organic and handmade (and bezel) pieces but this one I agree something about the execution is off.

Thanks for the feedback, PG. The variability of the bezel doesn't bug me (or didn't till the comments! - I am going back and forth on asking him to even it out, or not), but the kink in the bail does. I'm definitely going to ask if that can be remedied in the process of taking it down a few degrees, a la HopeDreams photoshop modifications. I have an appointment to see him tomorrow - wish me luck!
 
natascha|1289086543|2757107 said:
First of all, I love the ruby and the design idea. I have something similar but with a smaller topaz and it has more of the green ones curve. I think that that is the problem, the loop does not keep curving to the left it, nearly seems to curve a couple of degrees to the right. As someone before me said, if you are able to shorten the bail so that the slight curve is not noticable it would fix it.
But I truly believe that no one seeing it as it is now would see anything wrong or off.

Ooo, Natascha, do you have pics of your topaz? I would love to see ... the variations on this "simple" design, such as the ones HD's posted are fascinating to me. I'd love to see alternative interpretations!

Like I said to PG above, I'm seeing him tomorrow to see if he can make the changes to the bail (and possibly the bezel) - I'll definitely keep you guys posted! And thanks for the compliments on the ruby - it's one of my favorite stones, and I want it to have a setting that does it justice, y'know? :rodent:
 
Beautiful stone and I hope you and your jeweler can figure it out because it definitely deserves a home you love!
 
LOVE my jeweler! He increased the twist and thinned the bezel out subtly, and it's looking GAW-geous. I'm picking it up soon - pics to follow. Again, thanks guys, for all the honest feedback, and HD in particular for the pics: those helped so much. :D
 
just wanted to chime in to say that I love love love the design! your stone is gorgeous! Sounds like everything worked out and I bet it will look exceptionally stunning on you Circe!
 
I've been wanting to stick a round diamond in a pear setting just like that for a long time... it's beautiful! And I can't wait to see the new and improved pics!!
 
Great conclusion! Can't wait to see it!
 
GET 3 FREE HCA RESULTS JOIN THE FORUM. ASK FOR HELP
Top