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Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Setting

frankiextah

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Several PS'ers have asked to see comparison photos and also descriptive comparisons of my 3 ring settings made by Victor Canera, Steven Kirsch and Leon mege ... so here you are, these are for you, charmypoo, phoenix, and for anyone that may be interested in seeing all of the differences at once !

- halo size : LM being the largest because of the larger pave stones on the halo. LM halo is 1.9mm, SK halo is 1.3mm, VC halo is 1.5mm
- setting height : LM being the lowest, SK and VC are pretty much the same, table of the diamond is a little over 7mm measured from the top of the finger
- prong size : LM and VC's prongs are very similar. SK's prongs are very thin, almost too thin
- donut : LM's donut is very large, VC and SK's are small, approx. at 5mm in diameter
- ring shank : LM's being the thickest at 1.95mm, SK's is at 1.85mm, and VC's is at 1.8mm

overall comments on the settings:

LM pros -
- good prongs, diamond set off square where the prongs rest on the kite facets, so the center stone was set very securely
- good tilt angle of the halo
- the cutdown pave was done very elegantly

LM cons -
- donut too large, creating an "empty box" effect at the gallery area
- straight stems, which accentuated the "empty box" effect at the gallery area
- halo too large and overwhelmed the center stone
- excessive metal between center stone and the halo
- excessive metal at the lip (side) of the halo

SK pros -
- small donut and curved struts
- elegant cutdown pave
- unique 2-row pace halo style

SK cons -
- the halo was too thin
- the halo was a little too small for the center stone - the stone had to set a little higher to fit into the setting
- prongs were too thin. the 4 prongs were not evenly spaced so they were pointing at different directions
- the halo was not exactly 100% a perfect circle. pave diamonds were not uniform in size. a few of them were poking out beyond the edge of the halo making the halo looking a little bumpy
- thought this ring was supposed to be hand forged but saw obvious casting parts and was not told about this

VC pros -
- perfect sized halo
- great prongs, elegant, dainty but still strong, pointing acutely at every corner of the table
- minimal amount of metal at the lip of the halo
- small donut and curved struts
- elegant cutdown pave
- perfect tilt angle on the halo
- ring is 100% hand forged, with no casting elements

VC cons -
- that he is not in NYC near me !
 

frankiextah

Brilliant_Rock
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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

onto photos... eerily to have taken very similar photos for each setting ! lucky to have these photos still saved in my computer, as i no longer have the LM setting...



3rings1a.jpg

3ringssidea.jpg

3ringsprofile1.jpg

3ringsprongs1.jpg

3ringsfaceup1.jpg
 

frankiextah

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Messages
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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

.
 

Laila619

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Interesting! The Leon setting definitely didn't look as good. I wonder if he had an inexperienced bench person or something doing the ring, because I can totally see the excess metal.
 

Miss Sparkly

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1,664
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Wow, loving the SK setting! The LM from the top is my favorite but overall the SK wins. Do you mind if I ask how they compared in price? I don't need numbers, just LM was more expensive then SK for example, if that's okay.
 

frankiextah

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

sparkly, LM and SK's prices are almost identical.
 

frankiextah

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

a bigger version of the top down view :

3ringsfaceup.jpg
 

Phoenix

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Frankie, thank you sooo much for posting all the details, pointing out the various differences and pros & cons, as well as putting up comparison photos - definitely very very helpful indeed. I particularly like the curvy stems and smaller donut - I think the overall aesthetics beauty of the VC ring is evidential. :love: :love: :love: :appl:

I've been using LM (used him for 3 projects) and with the last project, I was less than pleased! Upon yr very informative posts and pics of yr beautiful VC ring, I've decided to use Victor my next/ current project. He's extremely kind and extremely patient and I appreciate that very much (you know how OCD us PS'ers can be, lol!). Granted LM was never rude to me/ in fact he was quite polite too. But VC reeeallly is amazingly patient given how many email exchanges we've had and the numerous Q's and reservations I've discussed with him. I have to say Steven was not so polite with me (in fact he basically told me he was not willing to work with me, after I'd made enquiries (legitimate I thought) about pricing and it wasn't even the number of emails either as it was basically just about 5 or 6 - it was quite shocking!!).

I have some further Q's for you, Frankie, if I may:

1) the melee: how many pointers are they in the 3 settings? I know stated them in mm, but I don't know how they translate to pointers.

2) are the melee of different types in the 3 settings, and if so, what are they? Appreciate it if you could pls elaborate on pros & cons, if applicable. (ETA: I see you've actually said cut-down pave was used in all 3 settings, I presume one can choose what type pave to go for?)

3) did you request Victor to set the ring at your preferred height, ie. it is not a VC's "standard" height, is it? I ask because Leon tends, by default, to set his rings very very low which I actually like but I know some ppl, including yourself it seems, are not so keen on that. I guess it's just a matter of personal preference.

4) what differences has the use of the hand-forging technique by Victor, as you said, given rise to - both in terms of looks as well as durability? I think you may have mentioned some in yr past thread(s), but it might be helpful to put it all in this thread, for our future reference purposes. Would you mind terribly?

Fwiw, my Leon ring is extremely sturdy despite it looking very very delicate - I've had local jewellers callng it "flimsy". It is in fact not flimsy at all, and I've had no dent, no melee falling out after 3.5 years of wearing it almost daily. Apparently though, some other PS'ers' LM rings have had problems.

Once again, thank you very much for taking the time and effort to do this. I am sure other PS'ers are as thankful as I am.
 

Echidna

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Frankie, thanks for this post. It's super informative and your fabulous photos really add to your commentary.
 

Amys Bling

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Great post Frankie!!! I am definitely less impressed with the LM.
 

Mayk

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Awesome post. I learned so much! Huge difference. vC won for me too, but I did like the pave on the sides of the halo on the SK. :appl:
 

yennyfire

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Really interesting Frankie, thanks!

Phoenix, I had a similar experience with SK and I'd spoken to him one time and sent him one email with photos of the stone and a couple of settings I really liked. He basically told me that he couldn't give me a price until the project was nearly completed and was quite rude. I crossed him off of my list immediately.

I found Victor to be amazing....patient, a talented sketch artist, who was willing to take the time to speak with me and even send me a couple of sketches. The only reason I didn't use him for my project was b/c I chickend out about going custom. I needed to be able to see what my ring would look like before I committed. That decision had absolutely nothing to do with Victor or his work.
 

diamondseeker2006

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Frankie, this is a very helpful thread. I absolutely think VC's ring is superior. I think Steven's is close (as in I loved it when you had it done), but I, personally, do not like pave on the side of the halo. My Leon solitaire is excellent quality and had held up extremely well, but I do have to say that he sets stones a little too low. I don't like stones set high at all, but there is a medium-low range that I think compliments the stone better and results in better aesthetics overall. VC obviously "gets" that because his height is preferable, at least to me.
 

moosemom

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Thanks Frankie for this post - it great to see their work side by side. I like VC's the best out of the bunch, although SK's looks nice from the side view too. I sent my diamond to VC to be set and he has been super patient and kind while I hem and haw and make up my mind. I am so glad I chose him. Now I just have to make my final decision.
 

luv2sparkle

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Frankie, that you so much for the comparisons. Initially, when I read your posts and saw your rings they pretty much all looked the
same to me, beautiful. I really couldn't understand why you wanted to change your setting. But seeing them side by side I totally see
the differences. Your post is so incredibly valuable! Thank you for taking the time to put it all together.

At first, I thought I was going to like Leon's better. I thought I liked the larger stones in the halo. But Victor's is truly the most eye pleasing and his pave work perfect. The curved struts really got me, and I too, wish my ring sat up a little higher on my finger (even though for safety's sake it is probably better).

SK's work really looks sub par. There is not excuse, IMO, for melee not matched perfectly. Again, IMO, if you can't match melee exactly get out of the jewelry making business. I have a Martin Flyer ring that they remade for me due to a jewelers mistreatment, and they screwed up the graduated pave and I can't tell you how much it bugs me. It keeps me from wearing the piece more. My eye notices it too easily. It also seems, from Yenny's and Phoenix's post that SK learned a bit of attitude at Leon's bench. Certainly not a good thing to have.

I am not sure if I will ever do another big project or reset my ring, but I would definitely talk to Victor. I am sure any specific detail that I liked of Leon's he could translate even better.

Awesome post, Frankie, definitely a keeper.
 

frankiextah

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
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Messages
785
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

one more comparison !!

this is where perhaps the largest differences are evident. LM's just has too much metal at the lip of the halo. SK's look a bit block-ish and top heavy (just not a personal preference), and VC's look very fluid and light.

3ringsfinger1_0.jpg
 

MissGotRocks

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16,270
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

I suppose in all fairness to the three of them, each ring was an improvement on the last. They are all beautiful rings but what strikes me more than anything about the VC ring is that the center stone literally seems to melt into the halo - seamless and beautiful. I much prefer his struts and the fact that the halo does have just the right angle from the stone to not look like a flat halo around the stone.

These are the kinds of informative posts on PS that really help people in their quest for custom work. Thank you for taking the time to put this together for all of us. Your ring is very beautiful and I hope you enjoy it for many years to come!!
 

frankiextah

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
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Messages
785
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Hi Phoenix !

of course, no problem ! PS has helped me so much so this is the least i can do !

yes, i agree that VC's craftsmanship, customer service and also price (!) are the best amongst the "master jeweler" category.

to answer your questions:

1) i was not aware of the "size" of the melee per say, but LM's - 1.7mm meleee on the halo, SK's - 1.1mm melee on the halo, VC's 1.3mm on the halo. i was told the as a general guideline, the melee size is basically the width of the band / halo you desire minus about 0.2mm ( for the metal part, even if you want to have an all diamond look with no metal top down). i had this discussion with VC while planning this final setting and he sent me adobe illustration digital "sketches" with 1:1 ratio of my center stone. one with a 1.5mm halo and one with a 1.7mm halo, both viewed top down with a 1.8mm shank. we did not discuss the melee "carat size", but discussed more so on how wide i wanted the ring shank / halo to be seen top down and VC went on from there with the appropriate melee sizes.

here are the 2 illustrations he sent me. the top one is with 1.5mm halo and 1.8mm shank. the bottom one is with 1.7mm and 1.8mm shank. i decided on the 1.5mm halo.

Picture%2054_0.png


2) the melee in all 3 settings are full cut F/G VS+ (top line cut quality). the quality of all 3 settings are on par and i don't see any problems nor can i loupe any stones that looked cracked or with any inclusions at all. i believe full cut melee works perfectly with "brilliant" cut stones such as round, and oval, and i think single cut melee (even though i have not seen it in person) would work better with antique cut cushions.

3) i am very adamant about my setting heights even when i first went to see LM. when i saw LM i was not aware that i could tell him the exact mm to achieve, more like i asked for "LM medium high" setting (note: medium high only to LM standards), and told him that i needed to see the diamond culet above the donut and not hidden / chopped off from my vision (which is the case for many LM rings i've seen on PS). When i received the ring i measured it with my calipers and while it was "high" to LM standards, it was barely 6.5mm in height, a little too low for me still. because of this, and with the excessive metal on the lip part of the halo, the ring looked a little flat and "pancake"-like to me when worn on the finger. not being able to see the gallery and the pavilion of the center stone unless i deliberately rotated my finger bothered me.

for SK's ring, with more knowledge and confidence going into the project, i instructed for my ring to be set about 2mm above the finger, and with my center stone's depth of 5.21mm, the stone was set about 7.25mm in height. however, if you can see closely at the profile comparison photo, the head (halo opening) of the ring was actually too small for the center stone, forcing the diamond to rest below its girdle on the halo, visually the center stone looked like it's bumped up higher.

for VC's ring, i asked for the same height - about 2mm above the finger. with the combination of curved stems and a small donut, the diamond now looks perfectly situated and the head of the ring looks perfectly sculptural, 3D and fluid all the way down to the donut.

4) Technically speaking, the differences between casted and hand forged = 1) casting saves a little bit of time 2) 100% of the casted pieces have various degrees of air pockets and bubbles inside of the metal because the metal is poured into a wax mold guaranteeing to trap air inside. 3) the most important difference is the durability. casted pieces are a bit weaker due to the air bubbles (essentially hollow air gaps) inside the metal. the process of hand forging is essentially rolling the metal from a block of metal until one reaches a desired gauge (correct me if i am wrong). i think in this process the metal is "passed through" a hand cranked machine with the "space" adjusted to the desired gauge. as a result, compressing the metal repeatedly back and forth, there is absolutely no air bubbles inside of the metal. in addition, the process of rolling (forging) strengthens the metal so much more.

so while casted and hand forged pieces may look very similar in physical appearance on the surface (depends how well one can hand finish and polish the piece at the end), the difference is really on the inside of the metal that contributes to the strength of the piece as a whole in terms of bending out of shape.

in terms of dings and scratches, i was told that 90% plat with 10% iridium performs the best in terms of the metal looking steely, weight being the lightest, and the best to endure dings and scratches over time. my LM and SK rings are both 95% plat and did tend to register dings / scratches more than my VC ring which is made with 90% plat and 10% iridium.

i believe i started some commotions on PS discussing the "hand forged" topic... and my relationship with SK has now most likely been severed with me burning the bridge publicly on PS. however i don't regret this one bit. i just believe that with custom jewelry at this price point, it is very important to have 100% transparency with the material and exact process put into the project. people have different standards and tolerances and it is perfectly ok to choose casted or partly casted rings, i really think casted jewelry had gathered some degree of a bad rep on PS. casted pieces are very durable too, if the craftsmanship is good. i just believe that as a consumer paying so much money, the price needs to match the process that goes into the final product, and that the consumer needs to know whether or not a piece is casted or hand forged, that's all.

sorry long post, great questions because now i have spoken my mind ! hope this helps !! :wavey:
 

bright ice

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May 14, 2010
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4,328
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Wonderful post, very informative. I think VC wins out in every aspect, but I might be a little biased as I have 2 rings by him. They all are lovely but overall your current ring is perfect.
 

Verdy

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Jun 20, 2011
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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Wow! There's certainly a big difference between VC and the other two rings, this is an extremely helpful post to anyone who's considering a halo from any of them, I do agree that the Leon Mege halo isn't the best. The daintiness of the Victor Canera ring is outstanding, one of my all time favorites for sure!
 

SC86

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195
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Thank you for taking the time to write such a informative post! The comparison photos really add to your verbiage. I've followed all of your previous reset posts, and like others have mentioned, did not always see all of the nuances between the rings, especially between the SK and VC. Although I really do love the SK, I can now really see why the VC stands out. While I am not usually a fan of stones that are set "high", the height of the VC really suits this stone perfectly. With all of the iterations of this setting, I'm glad you now have one that enhances your gorgeous stone so well. It's just lovely!
 

stargurl78

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

What a great post, thank you for sharing this! While there are definitely things about the LM ring that could be improved, there are aspects of it that I much prefer over the SK ring. Victor's version is by far the best one though! Glad you ended up getting exactly what you were looking for :appl: It turned out beautifully.
 

MrsBettyBoop

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Mar 3, 2010
Messages
559
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

This thread and the pictures you took are amazing! The VC halo is a SUPERSTAR when you post them all together like that. It was hard to really imagine your impressions from different threads. Sh*t, this makes me want to run out and get a VC halo! :lol:


ETA: I hate to admit that I thought you were a little out of it before (I know we are all pretty much a little loopy)... but you're not crazy girl! I get it. I'm glad you found someone to make you the perfect halo and so impressed that you knew what to ask for!
 

MakingTheGrade

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12,936
Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Fantastic post!
I think I agree, VC's work looks more precise and delicate, shows off your diamond perfectly!
 

kcoursolle

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Very useful thread, thanks for sharing it. The side by side pictures are quite informative.
 

Christina...

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Great thread! Thanks for sharing! Other than prefering LM prongs I think that VC's wins hands down. I actually just requested a quote from him Thursday, so your thread came a perfect time! your ring gorgeous btw! :love: :lickout:
 

tyty333

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Great post Frankie! Thanks for the comparison..very useful!
 

Gypsy

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

I just think instead of pointing out where the other rings fall short you should acknowledge that each vendor made exactly the ring you asked for and that your standards for what constituted the perfect ring kept changing as you learned more about the process of ring manufacturing.

I think they are all beautiful and frankly I think it's ridiculous and unfair to trash all the vendors because you didn't state your INCREDIBLY particular expectations to them from the outset. Especially when you didn't even KNOW what those expectations were until AFTER you received your ring. They aren't mind readers.

And I like the SK best personally. I like Victor's pave work best under the macro lens, but I don't wear my jewelry with a macro lens or a loupe, so I genuinely prefer the SK because stone is set higher and the halo is smaller and I like the outside ring of pave, and the stone being set high like that is not a result of an accident, mine has it too and it really makes the profile beautiful. And I love it. He does that on purpose. Also regarding the metal on the profile of the halo on the Leon ring, I like that too. I actually asked SK for that on mine. If you prefer Victor's tilt, that's fine but it's an aesthetic issue not an empirical one. It's your opinion not a fact that one is better than the other.

I would work with Victor in a heartbeat, but in terms of the overall impact of the settings you bought the SK is my favorite. Also small prongs aren't a 'scrap it altogether' issue for me. You could have just sent it back and asked for larger prongs.
 

frankiextah

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Messages
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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Gypsy|1317594190|3031520 said:
I just think instead of pointing out where the other rings fall short you should acknowledge that each vendor made exactly the ring you asked for and that your standards for what constituted the perfect ring kept changing as you learned more about the process of ring manufacturing.

I think they are all beautiful and frankly I think it's ridiculous and unfair to trash all the vendors because you didn't state your INCREDIBLY particular expectations to them from the outset. Especially when you didn't even KNOW what those expectations were until AFTER you received your ring. They aren't mind readers.

And I like the SK best personally. I like Victor's pave work best under the macro lens, but I don't wear my jewelry with a macro lens or a loupe, so I genuinely prefer the SK because stone is set higher and the halo is smaller and I like the outside ring of pave, and the stone being set high like that is not a result of an accident, mine has it too and it really makes the profile beautiful. And I love it. He does that on purpose. Also regarding the metal on the profile of the halo on the Leon ring, I like that too. I actually asked SK for that on mine. If you prefer Victor's tilt, that's fine but it's an aesthetic issue not an empirical one. It's your opinion not a fact that one is better than the other.

I would work with Victor in a heartbeat, but in terms of the overall impact of the settings you bought the SK is my favorite. Also small prongs aren't a 'scrap it altogether' issue for me. You could have just sent it back and asked for larger prongs.


Gypsy, it's totally cool that you really like SK, and you should know by now that many members on PS feel the same way too. But perhaps before lashing out at me you may just want understand the purpose of this thread is really based on my own personal opinion and i am not to argue whether or not one is wrong to think which one is the best. your statement highlighted in bold is exactly the point of this thread. not sure where the mis-understanding was.

In addition, i feel that you are very rude to criticize me for simply posting here my personal opinion on each of my own settings. I never said i should be regarded as a judge for what is good or bad, it is simply a personal evaluation on the ending results of each of my own ring settings, made by 3 different jewelers. I also don't feel obligated to have to go into details of the situations that entailed for each of my setting experience. so for you to assume "how" i went through these experiences and to criticize what i should have or should not have done are really uncalled for.

Without going into too much detail, let me give you a little bit of a picture on my experiences : all of the details i had asked for my setting were in general consistent and almost did not change throughout the ring setting journey with the 3 jewelers. the 1st two jewelers simply gave me excuses and reasons why my requests were unreasonable or not doable, and therefore i trusted them, and therefore did not "complain" after. I only learned afterward, after seeing more rings on PS that my requirements really should have been doable. I had since lost trust in LM and SK, and did not feel like going back to them as obviously it was pointless going back to them if their working style was not able to meet my requirements in the first place. i did not feel like going back to them to argue/convince them to do what i wanted them to do. the result would have been unsatisfactory if they were unwilling to fulfill my requests wholeheartedly. I ended up reaching out to VC who was able to execute all of my requests first time around and that was it.
 

Gypsy

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Re: Comparison Photos of my Victor Canera, SK, Leon Ring Set

Frankie, I'm not 'lashing out at you'... lol. I'm telling you, in the words of a long time PSer, that you have your ass on backward in my opinion. And I'm not an SK groupie, either. Don't mis- characterize my comments.

I just think that your version of reality and mine are very different. I don't think it is fair to disparage vendors the way you have, repeatedly, without offering them the opportunity to try to address issues first.

I've been very consistent in my comments to you throughout your journey.

I can't stand Leon and I told you that you needed to step away from the loupe then. And then with Steven, you didn't give the guy a chance to make whatever you wanted right. You 'lost faith' and felt you'd be dissatisfied (I don't know why you would have been dissatisfied if SK had fixed the issues you saw, he clearly can do completely handforged the way Victor does as evidenced by his many pics of recent works-- unless you are FINALLY being honest about that fact that you are just someone who is beyond hard to please and nitpicky) even if they did address the issue and then proceeded to bash the vendors ... if I were to do that with every vendor that had dropped the ball in some way I would never be able to recommend Wink, GOG, ERD, or frankly just about any other vendor-- and I would have unfairly tainted their good names all because of my deciding it was okay to be a brat, all the while justifying what I was doing by claiming that I was just giving "my opinion" and "being honest".

When you are on PS working with someone and you are posting your opinion I think you have a responsibility, when things go wrong, to address the issue with a vendor and giving them a chance to offer you resolution. If you chose not to, don't slam the vendor for your decision. Or if they don't (like Leon did with you) offer you resolution post your experience, fine. But address it with the vendor first.

Look back at how T-gal recounted her pad saga with Richard Wise. That's class.

GUSHING about a vendor, posting about loving your ring, THEN being dissatisfied with the results for whatever reason and moving on to yet another vendor... and simultaneously selling your ring for thousands of dollars on one forum and praising it... while bashing it on another. Not so much.

And as for you thinking I'm rude. Well, right back at you.
 
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