Colored stones and window question

[Green with Envy]

If a colored stone (specifically a emerald cut green emerald) is cut too shallow and has a window in the center... when set properly in ring your finger will close the window so it is not obvious. However, wont the stone always lack sparkle in the area of the window?

 

[chrono]

A darker coloured stone will mask the window better if not too large, once set. The windowed area will lack sparkle but emerald has low RI and typically aren't sparkly in the first place.

 

[Green with Envy]

Would it have to be set in any particular way to make it look best? we are talking a 3 ct stone that ends up looking much larger because of extreme shallow cut... but top color and certified only treatment insignificant oil.

 

[pregcurious]

A setting that stops light from getting in through the pavilion (sides/bottom) will hide a window best. For example, a setting with a small opening in the gallery. An open gallery setting will literally make a window out of your gem, and you will be able to see your finger when you wear the stone.

 

[minousbijoux]

The short answer is that the lack of sparkle will continue to be present in the stone. The longer explanation follows.

So the better the cutting - that is, the closer the stone type is cut to its critical angles - the more sparkle and scintillation the stone will have - up to the point of its inherent capability. When a stone is not well cut - it has not been cut to maximize light return - light leaks through or gets trapped within the stone instead of being reflected back in the form of sparkle. When a stone has a window, it means the stone has not been cut correctly to maximize light return (it could happen for any number of reasons: the stone was cut to preserve weight and is shallow; the cutter miscalculated the angles; inclusions in the rough needed to be removed, etc). so even if you are able to find a setting that reduces the appearance of the window, it hasn't changed the cutting of the stone, which will still have the same facet angles and lack proper light return. I hope that made sense?

 

[Green with Envy]

Very very very helpful. Thanks!

 

[pregcurious]

Just wanted to add one more thing...a closed gallery setting will appear to "close" only smaller windows. With large windows, you will just see the gallery. You can just test by putting the stone in different settings. It sounds like the window is your gem is too large to address with a setting.

 

[chrono]

I think there's one poster who added a backplate underneath the gallery to make the large window of her stone less obvious.

 

[Green with Envy]

yes- a backplate is exactly what would work best, but I have other options so will pass on the stone... it just looked so BIG for the ct weight! Better to get smaller well cut. Really appreciate the feedback.

 

[chrono]

Another thing to keep in mind the density of emerald - they look large for their carat weight, even if well cut.

 

[pregcurious]

yes- a backplate is exactly what would work best, but I have other options so will pass on the stone... it just looked so BIG for the ct weight! Better to get smaller well cut. Really appreciate the feedback.

Agreed. I small window is okay to me if the stone has amazing color and is rare/expensive.