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"Collet set" vs "Bezel set"???

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Ideal_Rock
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All the DBTY-style necklaces that have been showing up around here lately got me thinking....

What exactly is the difference between collet and bezel? I thought that collets were simpler ''rings'' or ''collars'' around the girdle (resulting in more open backsides), but after looking closely at Starry''s gorgeous piece..I''m not so sure.

Anyone know??
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Thanks!
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pyramid

Ideal_Rock
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I don''t know. however a chain store where I live has a lot of their rings in what they say are collet set, to me it looks like a thin piece of metal around the stone whereas the bezel set seems to be a thicker piece leaving more of an edge width around the stone.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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It appears that a collet setting is quite different from bezel settings. According to this website and with pictures, it even has prongs.
http://24carat.co.uk/ringch38rexsolitairediamondframe.html

More here from the same website:
http://24carat.co.uk/diamondringsettingstylesframe.html

Their definition of collet:
A collet is the part of a ring which holds the stone. It could also be called a setting. The shank is the part of a ring which goes around the finger, and the shoulder is the transitional part between the shank and the collet or setting. A mount, mounting or ringmount is the empty ring before the diamond is set into it.

Another search on Miller's Antiques Encyclopedia yeilded this tidbit of information:
In the collet setting, the stone is fitted in an open or closed ring or "dish", made from metal tubing or a thin metal band. This setting is commonly used for rings, especially signet rings, and for necklaces, particularly rivieres.

An example of a pair of collet set earrings
http://www.swiftgems.co.uk/index.html?lang=en-uk&target=d7.html
(see item# 14071M)


ETA:
Looking at all these pictures, a bezel sure looks like a collet. Then lo and behold, I found this definition here:
http://www.jewelrysupplier.com/glossary/B-glossary.htm

ring setting, the bezel is more accurately the term for the metal case which the gem is set into. The ring of metal that surrounds the stone is called the "collet".

 

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Ideal_Rock
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Wow, Chrono...thanks! How clever of you to think of glossaries!

Obviously, there's some confusion out there...I've never heard of collet settings having prongs!
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Maybe terms are different in GB?

I think this definition is best so far. At least it has 'bezel' and 'collet' in the same sentence:

Bezel: Although it is now often used to refer to the entire ring setting, the bezel is more accurately the term for the metal case which the gem is set into. The ring of metal that surrounds the stone is called the 'collet'.

I guess what I'm wondering is if diamonds can be mounted in a collet only (ring around the stone) without the "case the gem is set into." I had thought that many antique longchains (sort of precursors to modern DBTYs) were mounted this way.

All of this leads to my real question: If they can be mounted in 'collets' only, why don't they do it that way anymore? Being more open in the back, it seems the chains would be more attractive when they inevitably flip over.

hmmm..
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chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Could it be that most people don''t want the culet exposed and at risk for fingerprints, pokiness, etc? Plus a full bezel has the weight to hold the diamond down (less upsidedown flippage)?
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Ideal_Rock
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Good guesses, Chrono...

Well I''ve just spent WAY too much time searching for a pic of an antique longchain...to no avail.

Oh, well...

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