Can we talk about tension settings?

[Mooshi]

I've seen the niessing rings, the steven kretchmer rings, and just love all things tension. I prefer no metal under the stone, but accept that it would offer more safety for the stone.

Just how unsafe would you consider a tension ring to be? Would you put a 2ct into one, to wear daily (WFH)? Would you only trust a non-expensive stone in this setting? Would you just not touch one with a 10-foot pole?

I'd really love to set a 2ct emerald cut diamond in one for a wedding band/engagement ring in one style ring, but asymmetrical and off to the side. I absolutely adore this style, and of course I know it would be smartest not to use one. I've seen some amazing mens tension bands here though, so I thought this might be the place to ask.

 

[Bron357]

The main issue with tension rings is that the ring size cannot be altered.
You are limited to “sizing beads” if too large and grinding down the inside of the shank of the ring if too small. In the case of “too small” at most only a 1/4 size increase in size IF you have a thick shank.
Womens fingers can and do change size over time, especially during and after pregnancy and you may find your ring no longer fits = very upsetting.
The other issue is “exposed girdle edge” which can result in chipping.
You do require expert setting, someone with good experience in tension setting and your diamond might need to be reviewed to ensure it’s practical to set. I imagine if the girdle had a “thin to very thin” notation on the lab report it might not be a good candidate for a tension setting.

 

[Mooshi]

Wow @Bron357 thanks for the input, I had no idea about the sizing in the future. Something very important, I've already had to sell a beloved ring as I went up two sizes and it wasn't sizable. Thank you!

 

[Bron357]

Wow @Bron357 thanks for the input, I had no idea about the sizing in the future. Something very important, I've already had to sell a beloved ring as I went up two sizes and it wasn't sizable. Thank you!

You could get a setting that “looked like tension set” but isn’t ie still resizable. A fine, subtle underneath shank maybe with diamonds.
My original engagement setting I choose to have the 3 diamonds set against each other and then, after my baby, went up 2 whole ring sizes. I couldn’t wear my engagement ring at all. I waited 2 years before accepting the finger was never going back to a size 6. I couldn’t have to ring resized up enough, increasing the pressure on the diamonds, so I had to go for a full remake.
The other mistake I made with my first setting is I allowed a “cut out” for my wedding ring but forgot about the eternity ring. My second setting choices corrected the lessons learnt!

 

[lovedogs]

I love tension settings. My compromise was to have 2 made by Bruce boone, as he works in cobalt chrome and other non previous metals. That way if you end up needing a different size you arent scrapping a super $$ platinum piece. Just an alternative idea!

 

[TJsMOM]

I too, love the look of tension set stones. I chose a 1 carat diamond in a tension "look"
20 years ago and have had no problems with it during that time. (1st Photo)

I recently had a true tension set ring made at Kretchmer with a much larger stone (3.67 carat sapphire) to commemorate our 20th anniversary. It turned out to be a huge, gaudy and uncomfortable ring. (2nd/3rd Photos) I was told this was due to the size of the stone. I am in the process of resetting the ring. This time no tension setting. I think lovedogs has the perfect solution!

I also recently read an article about the greater possibility of damage to stones from
tension settings due to the incredible pressure exerted. I will post if I can find it again.

Look forward to seeing what you decide to do!