Can this very deep (depth, not dark) emerald be set?

[Joanne10]

Hello! I have an emerald bought pre-PS. It’s an emerald shape, approximately 7.75x5 mm, with 5.8 mm depth.

I plan to set it in a pendant. I’m flexible on style (bezel, halo, prong, etc). I haven’t been to the jeweller’s with it yet. I have however been told by another gem collector that it’s too deep to be successfully set in a pendant.

Does anyone have first-hand experience with such a stone? If yes, did you manage to set it? I couldn’t find much on this topic, sorry if it’s been discussed before. Thank you in advance!

 

[dk168]

Hello! I have an emerald bought pre-PS. It’s an emerald shape, approximately 7.75x5 mm, with 5.8 mm depth.

I plan to set it in a pendant. I’m flexible on style (bezel, halo, prong, etc). I haven’t been to the jeweller’s with it yet. I have however been told by another gem collector that it’s too deep to be successfully set in a pendant.

Does anyone have first-hand experience with such a stone? If yes, did you manage to set it? I couldn’t find much on this topic, sorry if it’s been discussed before. Thank you in advance!

If the setting is custom-made, then why can't it be set as a pendant?!

The pendant setting can be designed so as to minimise rolling once the pendant is on a chain.

DK

 

[Joanne10]

I don’t know, hence my asking I only went custom twice, and both times it wasn’t a great experience. (Joys of living in a small provincial town.) Happy to hear it might be doable with the right jeweller.

 

[Avondale]

It's not too deep for a pendant, I promise. The world has known many bigger, deeper stones set in pendants quite successfully. I myself have one that's deeper than yours (different stone, though) and I wear it all the time.

The thing that might present more difficulty is the shape of the bottom. The pavilion is just one thick monoblock with barely any angle. It won't fit into any type of stock setting, you'll have to go custom, and you'll have to do it with someone at least somewhat competent. I could totally see a less skilled jeweller turning you back because the stone in their opinion is impossible to set.

 

[Joanne10]

It won't fit into any type of stock setting, you'll have to go custom, and you'll have to do it with someone at least somewhat competent. I could totally see a less skilled jeweller turning you back because the stone in their opinion is impossible to set.

I’ve told my husband countless times how fragile emeralds are, so he just sent me this and offered to mount it himself, using the method in the video. /s

 

[Karl_K]

In a pendant I would consider setting it pavilion up.
How is the color that way?

 

[Joanne10]

In a pendant I would consider setting it pavilion up.
How is the color that way?

Interesting idea. Unfortunately, colour is bad. The crystal is quite poorly saturated. Face-up, the cutter did a good job and it’s *almost* decent.

I’m not sure how it looks in these two comparison pics. In real life, it’s fairly obvious. First shot is very accurate, for what’s worth.

Edit: added another one pavilion up. This one’s a lot more like that I see.



Also, if anyone has any concerns regarding its structural integrity, please shoot. I’d like to know.

 

[Bron357]

To prevent rolling, I’d suggest a flat disc setting with the emerald in the centre. On the flat section of the disc you could add in more emeralds or other gemstones. On perhaps a star shape base with the emerald in the centre. I think a simple prong set pendant isn’t going to sit properly on the neck.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Was this a costly stone to buy back in the day? It will be costly to set because of the need to go custom.

I like @Bron357 suggestion of anchoring the setting with some surrounding metal. I think that will help it sit well. You could also add stones that have high domes, like cabochons.

 

[Joanne10]

Great ideas, @Bron357 and @Dreamer_D! I’ve been looking at an Aussie opal to do a sort of toi et moi pendant, so my thoughts were also going in that direction - flattening it out, as it were. But there is a big difference in thickness still. Work in progress…

Was this a costly stone to buy back in the day? It will be costly to set because of the need to go custom.

It was costly to me at the time. So I’d avoid putting more money in this project than absolutely necessary, because I don’t love the stone. Fortunately, around these parts, the manufacturing process (and it’s being done by hand, too) is quite cheap. But downside is I haven’t found a skilled bench yet. (You get what you pay for, yes…)

 

[Bron357]

Here are some examples of the idea I mean.

 

[Joanne10]

Thank you so much, everyone, for all the information and all the great ideas you’ve given me! I’ll let everything stew for a while and see what I come up with.

Also, I’ll have to enquire about someone relatively local who has experience in setting emeralds, so this is going to take a while. Wish me luck!

 

[dk168]

Thank you so much, everyone, for all the information and all the great ideas you’ve given me! I’ll let everything stew for a while and see what I come up with.

Also, I’ll have to enquire about someone relatively local who has experience in setting emeralds, so this is going to take a while. Wish me luck!

Does it have to be a local bench?

Have you considered sending the stone out to one of the trusted benches instead?


DK

 

[Joanne10]

DK, I have thought of it, yes. But I’m in Europe, and I’m uneasy at the idea of sending it either to the US, or even internationally, anywhere. I don’t want it to get lost, even if it was only about 500 dollars, 2 years ago. Maybe I’m too anxious?

Also, is the stone worth the extra money spent on setting? If it were a very fine stone, then I’d have a lot less hesitation. As it is, half the time I just want to sell it and cut my losses.

To cut a long story short: I’m hoping it’s going to look better mounted. If that is not the case, somebody please tell me asap.

 

[dk168]

DK, I have thought of it, yes. But I’m in Europe, and I’m uneasy at the idea of sending it either to the US, or even internationally, anywhere. I don’t want it to get lost, even if it was only about 500 dollars, 2 years ago. Maybe I’m too anxious?

Also, is the stone worth the extra money spent on setting? If it were a very fine stone, then I’d have a lot less hesitation. As it is, half the time I just want to sell it and cut my losses.

To cut a long story short: I’m hoping it’s going to look better mounted. If that is not the case, somebody please tell me asap.

Sorry, no help here, however, only you can decide if the stone is worth the bother, hassle and expense to be set.

For me personally, this is my decision making process when it comes to prioritising custom work.

- Do I like the CS?
- Does it have sentimental value?
- How much does the CS cost initially?
- How much do I want to spend on the setting?

If I like the CS and it has sentimental value, then I would consider setting it.

If it is a high value CS, I would opt for a better setting with 14K Gold and earth-mined diamonds if they are affordable, otherwise LGD).

If it is a low value CS, then I would opt for Rhodium-plated Silver and LGD or even simulants such as CZ and Moissanites.

Each to their own - this is my own approach.

I have loads of learner CSs that I am not going to set as I can't justify the cost of setting even in Rhodium-plated Silver and with simulants.

DK

 

[Joanne10]

That is helpful, very helpful indeed, @dk168! Thank you.

Then I think it’s better if I sell it and buy another emerald (preferably mounted) sometime in the future.

 

[mrs-b]

Here are some examples of the idea I mean.

These are gorgeous, @Bron357!

 

[dk168]

That is helpful, very helpful indeed, @dk168! Thank you.

Then I think it’s better if I sell it and buy another emerald (preferably mounted) sometime in the future.

Good luck!

I prefer to find a CS that I like, that would mean going down the custom cutting route, then have it set separately.

Reason for that is because I have very specific setting design requirements and seldom find any finished ring off the block that I like in its entirety.

What is your budget for the Emerald may I ask? Please note I have a vested interest in this as I have an Emerald rough already reserved with Jeff White and might need to sell the finished stone at a later date.

DK

 

[Joanne10]

Good luck!

I prefer to find a CS that I like, that would mean going down the custom cutting route, then have it set separately.

Reason for that is because I have very specific setting design requirements and seldom find any finished ring off the block that I like in its entirety.

What is your budget for the Emerald may I ask? Please note I have a vested interest in this as I have an Emerald rough already reserved with Jeff White and might need to sell the finished stone at a later date.

DK

Thank you! Enjoy your emerald when you receive it!

I don’t have a budget per se… If the right stone, at the right price, comes at the right time, I’m going to buy it. But this being a stone with a bad-ish cut and not enough saturation (for me), if I ever buy another emerald, it’s going to be extremely green. And preferably, in a round or cushion cut. I vastly prefer those to emerald cuts, it seems.

Unlike you, an unset stone is not a must, and I think that gives me more flexibility. I love antiques, and hope I’ll find something lovely that won’t break the bank (or the stone itself won’t be too beaten up, given the fragility of emeralds). But that’s for sometime in the future, there’s no rush.



I have this to enjoy in the meantime, my first emerald, bought when I was 16. Tiny, but I can see it from across the room. In the dark. (Almost.)

 

[LilAlex]

Unfortunately, colour is bad. The crystal is quite poorly saturated. Face-up, the cutter did a good job and it’s *almost* decent.

Have not read all the posts but sounds like you are not in love with it. With a $500 sunk cost (did i read correctly), I would not invest thousands to identify and create an optimal setting unless it were an heirloom or you had some other strong emotional connection to it.

 

[Joanne10]

Have not read all the posts but sounds like you are not in love with it. With a $500 sunk cost (did i read correctly), I would not invest thousands to identify and create an optimal setting unless it were an heirloom or you had some other strong emotional connection to it.

Same here. And yes, that is correct - 500 dollars. (I still can’t bring myself to think of it as sunk cost, my heart just sinks. Sorry for the pun.) And for a stone I’m hoping to like if I get it in a nice setting, too. Hence I thought it best to employ someone local-ish for the job, who has experience with emeralds, because going custom in my country is fairly (very) cheap - if done by hand, and with a simple design in mind.

Maybe I’ll win the lottery one day (I mean, save enough money) and get an amazing emerald, with money to spare for an amazing setting (Or better yet, just go the antique route - they can be phenomenal; I love them And I’ve seen lovely pieces - if dainty - for under 500-1000 dollars, so it would be much more budget friendly. You just have to look hard enough and be patient for the right one to come along. Plus, I already know exactly what I’m getting - a big plus for me).

Until that happens though, I’ll just ponder on the lessons learnt:
1. don’t buy emeralds sight unseen, unless you trust the vendor and the quality of their stock;
2. don’t hurry and rush headlong, wait for the perfect stone;
3. when in doubt, don’t hesitate to return, because those nagging doubts will only grow, not disappear.

A long post, and sorry if I rambled. Thank you everyone for your time, thoughts and input. I really appreciate it!

 

[LilAlex]

^ These are all good points and I have made every one of these mistakes. Some repeatedly (although not with emerald).

 

[Melisande]

Europe is a whole continent but just in case - there's a highly recommended bench near me that I'll offer for consideration. I don't yet have personal experience, but hopefully soon.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ARoesseruniqueJewels

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[Joanne10]

I’m right on the other side of the EU, but I’m sure our Portuguese members will appreciate the recommendation! Thank you! Also, good luck with your project. I hope it turns out even better than you expect!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I’d set it. I bet it will look great. People wear costume jewelry with glass and plastic beads that are pretty. I’m sure yours would be too!

 

[arkieb1]

It isn't too deep to set people set larger stones that are way deeper than this one. If the stone cost $500USD you will probably spend more than that setting it so if you are going to like it and wear it fair enough otherwise it's probably not worth the hassle.

 

[Dreamer_D]

You should check out Janish Jewels on Etsy. I don’t know your style but she used silver and gold sparingly, which may keep the cost down.