CAD help for vintage-inspired cluster halo ring

[Peary]

I had started to work with DK on a ring setting back in August, based on inspos I had found on a site selling estate cluster rings and CvB's "Clara Halo". DK had sent me an initial CAD back then but I didn't really examine it. I'm ready to move forward now but am unsure whether and what changes I should make to the CAD.

Below are the inspo ring and DK's CAD, any changes I should make? I see a few things:

1. For the top and bottom portions of the halo, DK's CAD has 7 petals whereas the inspo has 5. Should I change it? Which looks better? I think the inspo's 5 petal looks better?

2. For the left and right portions of the halo, DK's CAD seems more curved. Is that good?
3. DK's CAD doesn't have the milgrain, which I want.

3. Should the donut be thicker from the side view, as in, a thicker base?

4. Anything else you see that ought to be tweaked?

Much appreciate your help in advance!

 

[emmy12]

I agree the 5 petals look better!
From the other CAD's I've seen from DK, I believe that the details on the CAD designs are only enough to get the casting of the base shape done. He doesn't include the "finishing" steps (prongs on the pave, milgrain, etc) in the CAD drawings. Those features are done by hand after the piece is cast. If you are nervous about it a quick email would easily confirm that the final would have milgrain.

 

[Rfisher]

If I remember correctly- the shank width /height stated on the CAD does finish out thinner.
Do you want the bottom of the shank to be that dainty?
No right/wrong on that - just opinion.

Have you seen the original antique version of this ring that the other vendor’s versions are most likely inspired by?


Your question about the donut - is it related to aesthetics or to function ( like making space away from the gallery for a band to snug up to)?

 

[Peary]

If I remember correctly- the shank width /height stated on the CAD does finish out thinner.
Do you want the bottom of the shank to be that dainty?
No right/wrong on that - just opinion.

Have you seen the original antique version of this ring that the other vendor’s versions are most likely inspired by?


Your question about the donut - is it related to aesthetics or to function ( like making space away from the gallery for a band to snug up to)?

Thank you!

Really good eye. I didn’t notice the shank finished out thinner. I’ll ask DK to tweak that.

About the donut being thicker from the profile view, just for aesthetics. It doesn’t look “substantial” I guess.

And no! Never seen that antique version, where is it from?

And would you know, how do you decide on the melee sizes? I noticed that DK listed a bunch of different sizes, is there a formula to figure out what looks best, what’s the best proportion from the biggest melee to the smallest one? Like is there a tool to figure out what the original one used, for example?

Thank you!!

 

[dk168]

I am not a CAD expert, however, I like the original inspiration ring design of its nipped sides, which is not that prominent in the CAD.

DK

 

[RMOO]

It looks to me as if the outline of the petals looks like there are five, but he has filled in that space with 7 stones of varying diameter instead of 5 stones filling the space, one per petal.

Also the side petals above the shank (don't know what to call them) - the curve up against the center stone in the cad is more wavy than the single smooth crescent line of the inspiration ring.

 

[Rfisher]

Thank you!

Really good eye. I didn’t notice the shank finished out thinner. I’ll ask DK to tweak that.

About the donut being thicker from the profile view, just for aesthetics. It doesn’t look “substantial” I guess.

You can ask for the donut to be more visible/less tucked under the gallery - if that’s what you want to see.
your basket height will probably be made higher total measurement off the top of your finger to accommodate that - but it’s not super high to begin with.

And no! Never seen that antique version, where is it from?

Trumpet&Horn sold that ring a few years back, and they claimed it was Edwardian/ vintage if I remember correctly. I think I’ve seen at least 2-3 other vendors do a version of it, aside from the three vendors you have already mentioned, that all look somewhat similar to the inspirations you have already shown. Almost all, though, have their own slightly different interpretations /looks/scale.
(I did a deep dive on that ring design a few years ago - )

And would you know, how do you decide on the melee sizes? I noticed that DK listed a bunch of different sizes, is there a formula to figure out what looks best, what’s the best proportion from the biggest melee to the smallest one? Like is there a tool to figure out what the original one used, for example?

Thank you!!

Me- I’d fool around with a cut/paste program just to see what my eye preferred.
Some figuring out needs to be done with what sizes of melee can fit around your size center in this design -and what can’t- or what needs to be adjusted to the design (like center bezel width or shape) so it can. The designer (Amy at DKJ in this case) is the best person to do this melee size figuring out - imo. Once you’ve chosen the look you want to achieve - that is. After they do that and you get to see the cad images - of course you can ask if it’s feasible to tweak melee larger or smaller to your preference from there or not. You’ll like the look of the adjustment or you won’t.

Searching here for DKJ cad to finished product threads to ‘see’ them will really help you in visualizing what changes you are asking for and how those cad changes translate to the finished product. Usually tweaking cads has causes and effects elsewhere in the design that one should be on the look out for.
It’s really hard to comment on cads not basing it on ones own personal taste vs being able to do so based on the cad translating to the finished look the poster has shown and wants to achieve.

What looks ‘best’ is of course subjective and some designers have their own tastes of what’s correct scale/proportion and what’s not. Most designers, if not all, will want to do their own interpretation of a design, not duplicate another’s interpretation - but there’s nothing wrong with replicating or riffing off an antique and out of production setting.

 

[tyty333]

I dont know if this is just a perspective thing, but the nipped-in sides on your inspiration look more curved than what is
in the CADs. The CADs tend to be curved but look straighter than the inspiration. Not sure if that needs a CAD tweak or
not.

 

[Peary]

Thank you to everyone who chimed in!

I wonder now if I should just pick a simpler design, something with the same mm of halo melees all the way around maybe...

Thanks for showing me Trumpet and Horn, RFisher! I've never come across them before, but they remind me of Lang Antiques and I love browsing their website!

 

[emmy12]

If you have had your heart set on this design don't give up because the CAD process is hard. Going through multiple design iterations is normal and just part of the process. You'll get lots of help and feedback here too if you post as they send the revisions back.

Don't give up on your inspiration ring!

 

[Peary]

If you have had your heart set on this design don't give up because the CAD process is hard. Going through multiple design iterations is normal and just part of the process. You'll get lots of help and feedback here too if you post as they send the revisions back.

Don't give up on your inspiration ring!

Aww, thank you! The CAD process is indeed hard!

 

[Rfisher]

I agree -
If you love that design (it is gorgeous)
Don’t give up!

Find your preferences and we can help you towards that goal. There’s a chance (in all custom work) it may not come out exactly like you envision - but it’s a process. A lot of us have been there.

Do you wish to see some random option/ideas on this design thrown out here?

 

[Rfisher]

Hope I’m not overstepping but here’s some ideas of what some tweaks might look like:

this one ( on the left - original on right) shows a more prominent donut by raising the basket a bit - could be done even a bit more if you wished.

Original CAD on left - right shows melee placement differently swapped around from the Clara similar placement version

This one on the right shows with pears, maybe?

this one shows with marquise, maybe?

This one shows different placement melee plus smaller ‘wings’ (that are sized closer to the T&H vintage ring)

This last one has the 5 melee like the Estate Diamond Jewelry’s version has that you posted, but has the larger ‘wings‘ from DK’s cad.

 

[Peary]

Hope I’m not overstepping but here’s some ideas of what some tweaks might look like:

this one ( on the left - original on right) shows a more prominent donut by raising the basket a bit - could be done even a bit more if you wished.

Original CAD on left - right shows melee placement differently swapped around from the Clara similar placement version

This one on the right shows with pears, maybe?

this one shows with marquise, maybe?

This one shows different placement melee plus smaller ‘wings’ (that are sized closer to the T&H vintage ring)

This last one has the 5 melee like the Estate Diamond Jewelry’s version has that you posted, but has the larger ‘wings‘ from DK’s cad.

Wow, @Rfisher, this is fantastic, thank you so much for all of your help. And you're not overstepping at all, I really need the help. You're really good at this, you're really detail oriented. Sometimes I can't even tell the difference between my inspo vs DK's current CAD

 

[Peary]

Hope I’m not overstepping but here’s some ideas of what some tweaks might look like:

this one ( on the left - original on right) shows a more prominent donut by raising the basket a bit - could be done even a bit more if you wished.

Original CAD on left - right shows melee placement differently swapped around from the Clara similar placement version

This one on the right shows with pears, maybe?

this one shows with marquise, maybe?

This one shows different placement melee plus smaller ‘wings’ (that are sized closer to the T&H vintage ring)

This last one has the 5 melee like the Estate Diamond Jewelry’s version has that you posted, but has the larger ‘wings‘ from DK’s cad.

Oops, @Rfisher - I accidentally posted too soon but didn't finish writing.

I think what happened was that I had given DK both the Estate Diamond Jewelry's version of this halo (which has 5 melees across the top, if I remember correctly), as well as CvB's Clara Halo (which has 7 melees across the top), and that's why DK's CAD didn't quite look like Estate Diamond Jewelry's version, since it was modeled after CvB's version. I didn't even realize the 2 versions are different when I had sent them to DK...Shows how bad I am at this CAD design thing.

Studying the 2 different versions again, CvB's vs. Estate Diamond Jewelry, I think I may like the latter's better. From afar, the Estate's version looks more like a circle, whereas CvB's has more of a curve around the outer edge.

Looking at the CADs you've done...how did you do that? Does it require you to purchase a software to play around with the designs yourself?

- I like what you did with the donut, that's exactly what I was looking for.

- I love the pears and the marquis (spelling?)! That's really lovely.

- The last one you posted though, the bigger wings + 5 melees across the top is probably the closest to what I'm looking for, since I love Estate's version and prefer it over CvB's Clara. Let me go back to DK with these suggestions.

Also, I was thinking about having a more open gallery design, does anyone have suggestions for a minimal or open gallery that works with this style? Do think think an open gallery, minimalist design clashes with the ornate "face" of the ring?

Lastly, about the shoulders, I was thinking about not having the current designs, they're currently styled after CvB's Clara again. I was thinking about maybe a tri-wire shank design, with maybe little cuffs of channeled melees. But not sure if this makes the shank or shoulders seem too plain as compared to an ornate "face". Do you think that'd lack congruity or mess up the flow of the ring, so to speak?

Estate Diamond Jewelry version:


CvB version:

 

[Rfisher]

Looking at the CADs you've done...how did you do that? Does it require you to purchase a software to play around with the designs yourself?

I just use a free cut and paste program on the pictures you posted like Adobe or you doodle. Nothing automated - all grind.

Also, I was thinking about having a more open gallery design, does anyone have suggestions for a minimal or open gallery that works with this style? Do think think an open gallery, minimalist design clashes with the ornate "face" of the ring?

If me - I’d wander thru Berganza, langs, 1st dibs and the like for Edwardian era rings and pick something to be inspired by

Lastly, about the shoulders, I was thinking about not having the current designs, they're currently styled after CvB's Clara again. I was thinking about maybe a tri-wire shank design, with maybe little cuffs of channeled melees. But not sure if this makes the shank or shoulders seem too plain as compared to an ornate "face". Do you think that'd lack congruity or mess up the flow of the ring, so to speak?

I don’t think a tri wire with cuffs and a simple/sleek shoulder (I’d not pave the cuffs tho - JMO) would look out of place, no. I’m not a super stickler for staying in one lane for period authentic - if this isn’t considered it - though. You can find absolutely lovely mixups of eras on this board.

Happy hunting!

 

[Peary]

I just use a free cut and paste program on the pictures you posted like Adobe or you doodle. Nothing automated - all grind.


If me - I’d wander thru Berganza, langs, 1st dibs and the like for Edwardian era rings and pick something to be inspired by


I don’t think a tri wire with cuffs and a simple/sleek shoulder (I’d not pave the cuffs tho - JMO) would look out of place, no. I’m not a super stickler for staying in one lane for period authentic - if this isn’t considered it - though. You can find absolutely lovely mixups of eras on this board.

Happy hunting!

Thank you for all your help, @Rfisher! Much appreciate you taking the time!

 

[elle_71125]

I adore the Estate Diamond Jewelry setting. It’s in my inspo folder. I like the 5 diamond look of that one better than the 7 diamond look of the Clara halo but that’s just my 2 cents.

If I remember correctly- the shank width /height stated on the CAD does finish out thinner.
Do you want the bottom of the shank to be that dainty?
No right/wrong on that - just opinion.

Have you seen the original antique version of this ring that the other vendor’s versions are most likely inspired by?


Your question about the donut - is it related to aesthetics or to function ( like making space away from the gallery for a band to snug up to)?

My sweet Clover’s origin story.

 

[Peary]

I adore the Estate Diamond Jewelry setting. It’s in my inspo folder. I like the 5 diamond look of that one better than the 7 diamond look of the Clara halo but that’s just my 2 cents.

Completely agree.

 

[Rfisher]

My sweet Clover’s origin story.

Your amazing Clover is the bright spot for me in going down memory lane on this ! (Cries in onyx )
I just re-read your thread(s) and it still takes my breath away upon reveal.
Thank you for letting me tag along


Similar proportions to the vintage/antique version
Similar to the bolder version proportions
Similar to the dantier version proportions
Whatever chosen, @Peary
They are all pretty gorgeous and have their own individual merits to my eye.

 

[Peary]

I adore the Estate Diamond Jewelry setting. It’s in my inspo folder. I like the 5 diamond look of that one better than the 7 diamond look of the Clara halo but that’s just my 2 cents.




My sweet Clover’s origin story.

What is the sweet clover origin story? I’d also love to see the big reveal!

 

[elle_71125]

Your amazing Clover is the bright spot for me in going down memory lane on this ! (Cries in onyx )
I just re-read your thread(s) and it still takes my breath away upon reveal.
Thank you for letting me tag along


Similar proportions to the vintage/antique version
Similar to the bolder version proportions
Similar to the dantier version proportions
Whatever chosen, @Peary
They are all pretty gorgeous and have their own individual merits to my eye.

I still don’t understand why it was such a challenge in onyx. It could have been glorious! All I know is that I couldn’t have done it without you. You were my rock, my sounding board, and you never told me I was crazy even when I was overly obsessed with the tiniest details. Thank you again and always!

What is the sweet clover origin story? I’d also love to see the big reveal!

Clover is the ring in my profile pic. It was inspired by the blue sapphire ring shared by @Rfisher. You can see the finished thread here:
Thread 'World’s longest project - My AVC diamond ring with an emerald halo by David Klass. Introducing, Clover.'
It’s my baby and I’m absolutely obsessed with it. Ok, I’ll stop derailing your thread now. I‘m looking forward to your next cad.

 

[Peary]

I still don’t understand why it was such a challenge in onyx. It could have been glorious! All I know is that I couldn’t have done it without you. You were my rock, my sounding board, and you never told me I was crazy even when I was overly obsessed with the tiniest details. Thank you again and always!



Clover is the ring in my profile pic. It was inspired by the blue sapphire ring shared by @Rfisher. You can see the finished thread here:
Thread 'World’s longest project - My AVC diamond ring with an emerald halo by David Klass. Introducing, Clover.'
It’s my baby and I’m absolutely obsessed with it. Ok, I’ll stop derailing your thread now. I‘m looking forward to your next cad.

I just read your thread and I love it, Elle! I didn’t even realize that was the ring you were referring to, duh!

No worries about thread jacking whatsoever! I love it when people chime in on anything that’s on their mind. That’s what forums are for!

DK makes such beautiful pieces!

 

[Peary]

I still don’t understand why it was such a challenge in onyx. It could have been glorious! All I know is that I couldn’t have done it without you. You were my rock, my sounding board, and you never told me I was crazy even when I was overly obsessed with the tiniest details. Thank you again and always!



Clover is the ring in my profile pic. It was inspired by the blue sapphire ring shared by @Rfisher. You can see the finished thread here:
Thread 'World’s longest project - My AVC diamond ring with an emerald halo by David Klass. Introducing, Clover.'
It’s my baby and I’m absolutely obsessed with it. Ok, I’ll stop derailing your thread now. I‘m looking forward to your next cad.

Does DK do custom cuts for side stones or melees like for your emeralds? That’s so great!

 

[elle_71125]

I just read your thread and I love it, Elle! I didn’t even realize that was the ring you were referring to, duh!

No worries about thread jacking whatsoever! I love it when people chime in on anything that’s on their mind. That’s what forums are for!

DK makes such beautiful pieces!

Thank you! DK really does beautiful work. What I love is that every piece is based off the customer‘s design & imagination. We get to see this wide variety of settings come out of his shop, Modern, vintage, and everything in between.

Does DK do custom cuts for side stones or melees like for your emeralds? That’s so great!

Yes! The entire project went through him. He can also source old cut diamonds like OECs for halo melee. I’ve even asked him to help me find a colored stone center for a preloved setting I purchased. I swear, the team at DKJ can do it all.

 

[Peary]

Thank you! DK really does beautiful work. What I love is that every piece is based off the customer‘s design & imagination. We get to see this wide variety of settings come out of his shop, Modern, vintage, and everything in between.


Yes! The entire project went through him. He can also source old cut diamonds like OECs for halo melee. I’ve even asked him to help me find a colored stone center for a preloved setting I purchased. I swear, the team at DKJ can do it all.

Wow that’s amazing. I had no idea. I previously had thought about designs with OEC side stones, color gemstone melees or side stones, etc., and I thought I’d have to supply them all and didn’t know where to get them. So good to know! I can now be so much more creative with my designs in terms of using color gemstones and all.

Do you know if they can also be precision cut? I assume so since your emeralds were in a very specific cut and size?

Thanks!

 

[elle_71125]

Wow that’s amazing. I had no idea. I previously had thought about designs with OEC side stones, color gemstone melees or side stones, etc., and I thought I’d have to supply them all and didn’t know where to get them. So good to know! I can now be so much more creative with my designs in terms of using color gemstones and all.

Do you know if they can also be precision cut? I assume so since your emeralds were in a very specific cut and size?

Thanks!

I would assume so. Each of the emeralds in my ring had to be cut, one at a time, to make sure they’d fit together and in the setting. I was a longer process but totally worth the wait. I don’t think they do the cutting themselves. I believe they work with several different vendors, which makes it an easy one stop shop for for me. You can also source your own diamonds / gems. I usually supply my own colored gems (because I’m picky about cut & color) but I leave the diamonds to them.

 

[Lora9]

@Peary did you end up getting this ring created? I’m looking for something similar so would love to see your ring if you moved forward with it!