CAD Check!

[spicyjalapenopopper]

Hello! I’m working with David Klass on an engagement ring. He’s made me a CAD and I’d love another set of eyes to see if everything looks good. The bezel is what’s securing the stones and the prongs are just decorative. The only thing that still needs to be changed is I asked for the band to be thicker, about 2.5/2.75 (open to suggestions!)

In the first CAD (the one that’s a size 7), the stone was set a little high so I asked if it was possible you lower it but figured it probably wasn’t since the stone is thick. He did lower it but I just wanted reassurance this was okay and wouldn’t cause any issues? Was it better at the original higher height?

The melee was supposed to be in the basket (inspo photo attached) but DK said it’d be better on the band since he didn’t want to block out the light. It’ll be bezel set. This shouldn’t be a problem if I wear a wedding band, right? I know melee with prongs can get worn down but since it’s a bezel, is it a bit tougher?

Thank you for any help!

 

[tyty333]

The melee on the band will interfere with your wedding band since it will be rubbing up against it.

What kind of look are you going for here? Modern, traditional, antique...the lines arent really working for me. Not my ring so
if they work for you that's what's important. Just wondering. Do you have an inspiration(s) you can show us besides the one you
posted above?

 

[spicyjalapenopopper]

The melee on the band will interfere with your wedding band since it will be rubbing up against it.

What kind of look are you going for here? Modern, traditional, antique...the lines arent really working for me. Not my ring so
if they work for you that's what's important. Just wondering. Do you have an inspiration(s) you can show us besides the one you
posted above?

Here are the different inspiration photos I used. I personally love the overall design as is but understand it’s not for everyone!

For the melee, do you think I should ask for it to be put on the basket? Do you think it’ll block too much light? Also, is the lower profile okay or should I have him move it back up to the original 8.21 height, you think?

Thank you for your help!

 

[Dreamer_D]

why a bezel with decorative prongs? Why not a faux bezel or not prongs?

 

[spicyjalapenopopper]

why a bezel with decorative prongs? Why not a faux bezel or not prongs?

Just like the look of both combined! The reason for not doing a faux bezel is since I’m doing both anyway, I figured I’d take advantage of the bezel adding more security to the center stone

 

[Rfisher]

Does DKJ have your stone on hand?
If not - that can change some parameters when down to this nit picky part of cads.

I think I would trust his judgement on the ‘blocking out light’ call to remove the melee - but if it’s something you really want - he will do it.

As for the setting height - I don’t think the original one is ‘high’ - so it’s all just your personal preference and what floats your boat in the all over look between the two. I don’t see one over the other being ‘more okay’ than the other as in right/wrong or issues.

If issues means with stacking - he needs the band on hand that you will be stacking with- to be able to say if there’s issues or not.

 

[spicyjalapenopopper]

Does DKJ have your stone on hand?
If not - that can change some parameters when down to this nit picky part of cads.

I think I would trust his judgement on the ‘blocking out light’ call to remove the melee - but if it’s something you really want - he will do it.

As for the setting height - I don’t think the original one is ‘high’ - so it’s all just your personal preference and what floats your boat in the all over look between the two. I don’t see one over the other being ‘more okay’ than the other as in right/wrong or issues.

If issues means with stacking - he needs the band on hand that you will be stacking with- to be able to say if there’s issues or not.

He doesn’t have it yet. I gave him the dimensions but we haven’t given him our stone. We’re semi local, but we’re still deciding if we should mail the diamond or give it in person late November when we’re in LA

Unfortunately we’re not married yet so we don’t have our bands. We’re planning on doing matching engraved bands. I’ll bring that up since we’ll probably go with him for the bands as well since he seems to do a lot of hand engraving work.

If the lower setting poses no negatives compared to the slightly higher one, then I think I’ll go with that! I wasn’t sure if it was going to maybe cause the same issue with blocking light like the melee issue

Thank you!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Just like the look of both combined! The reason for not doing a faux bezel is since I’m doing both anyway, I figured I’d take advantage of the bezel adding more security to the center stone

Aesthetically it is an unusual choice and not necessary for security. Its kind of combining the worst parts of bezels and prongs to combine them -- you lose face up size and visual spread of the diamond and change its optics but don't get any of the benefits of the bezel because the prongs are still there to catch on things. And it looks confused stylistically. There is a reason it has never been done before!

As to the melee on the bridge it will scratch the crap out of your wedding band and you won't see it, so I'd drop it.

I might also listen to others saying the design is confusing different styles and not necessarily in a pleasing way. I suppose to each there own, but you did ask! Consider asking Amy for some design advice on how to tweak things to be more cohesive.

 

[spicyjalapenopopper]

Aesthetically it is an unusual choice and not necessary for security. Its kind of combining the worst parts of bezels and prongs to combine them -- you lose face up size and visual spread of the diamond and change its optics but don't get any of the benefits of the bezel because the prongs are still there to catch on things. And it looks confused stylistically. There is a reason it has never been done before!

As to the melee on the bridge it will scratch the crap out of your wedding band and you won't see it, so I'd drop it.

I might also listen to others saying the design is confusing different styles and not necessarily in a pleasing way. I suppose to each there own, but you did ask! Consider asking Amy for some design advice on how to tweak things to be more cohesive.

I appreciate you sharing your thoughts! For me, I love the way gold looks and I’ve been a fan of the combo of bezel and prongs. I get it will take away the visual size of the center stone but I really don’t mind that because I think the shape of the gold is also adding visual interest that I like. I also think since it will be a bezel, if I decide the prongs are not giving the look I like, I can probably have them shaved off in the future without having to have the whole ring remade. I’ve attached some photos of jewelry I like that I think are beautiful because the gold is prominent.

I will see about talking to Amy tho for another set of eyes on it! I’ve only spoken to David so far so I’m not quite sure how to reach her but I’ll see about asking

 

[Dreamer_D]

I appreciate you sharing your thoughts! For me, I love the way gold looks and I’ve been a fan of the combo of bezel and prongs. I get it will take away the visual size of the center stone but I really don’t mind that because I think the shape of the gold is also adding visual interest that I like. I also think since it will be a bezel, if I decide the prongs are not giving the look I like, I can probably have them shaved off in the future without having to have the whole ring remade. I’ve attached some photos of jewelry I like that I think are beautiful because the gold is prominent.

I will see about talking to Amy tho for another set of eyes on it! I’ve only spoken to David so far so I’m not quite sure how to reach her but I’ll see about asking

Those examples are not bezels with decorative prongs. They are what we call "faux bezels" around these parts. The stone rests inside the hole in the metal base, often with the girdle of the stone resting just above the level of the metal, and the prongs hold it in place. It is a common design option now. It is NOT a bezelled stone with prongs thrown on for fun. If you like that look be clear about it to David because a bezel with decorative prongs is something else entirely that I have honestly never heard of. A bezel has the metal pushed down over the girdle of the diamond - totally different style of manufacture and setting than the faux bezels you have shown here.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Looking at your CADs again, David obviously knows what he is doing, because he has in fact modeled the faux bezel I am describing.

Notice how the girdle of the stone is above the metal frame? The prongs are holding it in place:


You will not be able to shave off these prongs as they are holding to stone in place. This is the proper way to make a ring like this, but you should be clear in how you talk about what you want and communicate with David, because this is not a bezel as far as I can see (nor should it be, IMO).

 

[Dreamer_D]

Regarding how to make the design more cohesive, if you want to have antique styles like the wraps on the shank and the swoopy gallery, consider using much smaller side stones and adding milgrain around the outer edge of the head and the side stones. If you want the modern, bold look these large sides create, consider removing the wraps on the shank and the swoops under the gallery and finishing the ring with a brushed finish, no milgrain, for a more sleek modern look.

 

[tyty333]

Here are the different inspiration photos I used. I personally love the overall design as is but understand it’s not for everyone!

For the melee, do you think I should ask for it to be put on the basket? Do you think it’ll block too much light? Also, is the lower profile okay or should I have him move it back up to the original 8.21 height, you think?

Thanks for the inspo pics...that helps to know where you are going. I'm going to throw out a few ideas. Feel free to ignore
(this ring is for you, not me).

For the melee...you have no basket (there is no bar going under the girdle unless you are talking about the bezel), so I'm not
sure where you are talking about possibly moving the melee? Can you "draw" it on where you are talking about?

An option would be to move the melee up to in between the bottom of the two prongs. Put the melee stone in a bezel so it
doesn't eat into your ering. I would probably go with the higher setting (8.21) if you were going to do this... else stick with the
lower setting.

Sort of like this setting (but a little more inwards so it doesn't poke out).

https://www.jamesallen.com/diamond-rings/round-cut-engagement-rings/0.80-carat-solitaire-engagement-ring-1938708?cur=USD&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwjsi4BhB5EiwAFAL0YEtOoZdKEagIOCLchKjUF-jqEvgnyMKrp2v69jRyrcf01eVt7aaYyRoCI-gQAvD_BwE

If you want to keep the shank wraps, I would make them chevrons and make them point downward to sort of mimic the points
on the side stones (make it flow a little more and look intentional). Kind of like this mock up.


Or, have you considered a split shank? It helps give a little more flow to a larger setting.



Just a few ideas to consider. Like I said, this is your ring so you do what you like!