Bought a ring, lost a side stone, Q about the setting...

[lucyruth]

Hey all, I just wanted to share. I have Liz/LibbyLA to blame for this lol! I found a ring on eBay, and am hoping to sell all (or almost all!) of my other diamonds to pay for it. They are all currently at a local jeweler, getting appraised. On another subject, I'm hoping this is really needed to sell! The appraiser is a GIA graduate, or GIA something (I don't really remember but all my well-diamonded friends recommended this place, so we shall see).

The ring I ended up buying on eBay has a 1.38 oec! About 7mm and nice looking. It's gorgeous. A lot of color but I love warmth. I'm not liking my whiter stones in comparison! It's in a vintage platinum setting, sort of a box corner setting for lack of the correct terminology. I've seen several old cuts in similar settings on here so it must have been common back in the day. I noticed that the diamond is a tad tilted in the head. It apparently was out at some point for an EGL certification that the seller included. Or maybe they did the certification and then found an old setting and mounted it? I don't know. But you can only see it in profile. But, it bothers me!

Anyway, I asked the goldsmith at this jeweler about straightening the diamond and he said it would be very, very expensive. That the diamond could not be moved without cutting off a couple of the "box corners" and then he would have to use a new "plate" and basically weld that on and recreate new prongs (although he said the setting is not technically a prong setting). Does that sound right? It seems like someone removed it last month to do the EGL! He said you cannot just bend the corners back and then straighten them. That it is too old and they would not bend like that. He also said he can see sanding marks on the corners and it was not well finished. And that if they soldered the corners back on that he could not weld and we would have to scrap the setting. Now this setting is easily 75-100 years old IMO. So I can't really believe there are finishing marks still showing on the corners. And this man has won jeweler of the year in my state for several years for his original work so I know he should know...

Would you get another opinion? He wanted to do hundreds of dollars of work, but then brought out some 18k repro settings from gab and someone else I've heard of and they were $2000 and up.... Perhaps that's normal pricing but that is way too much IMO. I'd rather find a vintage platinum for less!

So, what would you do? I told him I'd think about it and would rather keep the setting or find a period setting that was truly antique and not a repro. I got the impression they really wanted me to buy an expensive new setting.

Also, I bought an ultrasonic cleaner...I know, I've been warned. Put this baby in today, then later noticed a side stone was GONE! Yes, the water had long since been poured out by my kids who were busy ultrasonicaly cleaning everything they could find. So I was all set to stick with this setting, and now this. So I'm going to have to get this small side stone replaced. No biggie, but another small side stone is also cracked (this was disclosed before I bought it). Not easy to see unless you're looking for it. And another one is a bit darker than the others. All together about .20ct in side stones in the ring, and I need to replace 1-3 already...

So if I like the setting could someone refresh it so to speak affordably? Or can you recommend sources for vintage platinum settings? What would you do? I did ask if the main diamond was secure and got an affirmative answer from one of the employees at the jewelry store. Needless to say after ultrasonicaly losing that stone I've taken the ring off until I can have it looked at again!

SO excited about this ring but bummed that I'm throwing money at it already. I guess that's to be expected with antique jewelry!

I would really appreciate your opinions on straightening the diamond versus starting over with a new setting!
Thanks a bunch. Will upload pics when I'm on my laptop later!

 

[lucyruth]

Just wanted to add that I have an oec in an antique octagonal setting (bead set) and it is also a tad off - kilter... I wanted that diamond taken out to be appraised and then put back, level hopefully. He I'd it couldn't just be "taken out" and would also need a new plate welded on!?! Does that sound right? It seems like unless something is clearly prong set it cannot be taken out without major work.

 

[yennyfire]

I can't comment on the cost of repairs, but I want to see photos of your new baby!!!!

 

[lucyruth]

Hey all, I just wanted to share. I have Liz/LibbyLA to blame for this lol!

Just wanted to clarify, I mean blame in a good way - she pointed out previously that I really want a big diamond and should sell everything and take the plunge lol!

 

[lucyruth]

Wish I knew how to post them via an iPad! I'll def get some up soon via regular computer.

 

[LibbyLA]

lucyruth,

You know how it goes around here! No one's giving advice without PICTURES . Can't wait to see the new one! You might as well go for what you want because you won't be happy until you do. It's not like you've chosen something that is megabucks. (I have big shoulders, I'll take the blame...)

liz

 

[kefira]

Yes, pictures, please!

I would definitely get a second opinion. I'm imagining a setting with prongs like this or this, but I'm not sure. If it is, I can kind of see why that might not be the easiest to work with, but it sounds like your jeweler may just be much more comfortable with modern settings. And, obviously this type of setting can be worked with, or JbEG wouldn't have one for sale. Maybe your jeweler is just unfamiliar with this type; maybe he just wants to upsell you.

What area are you in? Maybe someone here knows your area and who would be a good second opinion. I'd look for someone who knows antiques and/or someone with a laser welder, since my understanding is that this is much more precise and allows for things not otherwise possible. If you are in a smaller city or a rural area, you may have to send the ring off to someone, and then you have to decide how much more you are willing to invest into this piece. At any rate, fixing the setting should be less expensive that a replacement setting.

I'm really not sure what the work you need done should cost, since I've not yet needed to replace any stones. Oh, when you do, make sure to get single cuts (if that's what your ring has), because round brilliant melee will not look antique. But take it to a few places if you can, just to see what they say. It may give you a better idea of what the cost should be. And insure that baby - either now or as soon as the work is done. I keep hearing that Jeweler's Mutual will insure diamonds during reset. Their site says no antiques, but I have spoken with them, and they told me antiques in good condition are fine. Maybe just insure the diamond itself?

Oh, also, I believe EGL grades set stones, which GIA does not. I think this is one more reason antiques often have EGL reports, as many pieces are too delicate to take apart and reassemble. So it's possible the diamond has always been tilted.

Please keep us updated!

 

[lucyruth]

Pics! NOT GOOD ONES though - just taken with my iphone, sorry!
Kefira, that first one is exactly it!

I've dropped it off at that jeweler to have the one tiny diamond replaced. I mentioned it was a single cut to the employee; hoping the guy working on it will match it. I'm leaving the cracked one and the dark one; no sense putting more into the setting until I know what I'm doing.

 

[lucyruth]

looks dark but isn't!

 

[lucyruth]

one more....

 

[lucyruth]

finger coverage...

 

[lucyruth]

last one!

 

[lucyruth]

Yes, pictures, please!

I would definitely get a second opinion. I'm imagining a setting with prongs like this or this, but I'm not sure. If it is, I can kind of see why that might not be the easiest to work with, but it sounds like your jeweler may just be much more comfortable with modern settings. And, obviously this type of setting can be worked with, or JbEG wouldn't have one for sale. Maybe your jeweler is just unfamiliar with this type; maybe he just wants to upsell you.

What area are you in? Maybe someone here knows your area and who would be a good second opinion. I'd look for someone who knows antiques and/or someone with a laser welder, since my understanding is that this is much more precise and allows for things not otherwise possible. If you are in a smaller city or a rural area, you may have to send the ring off to someone, and then you have to decide how much more you are willing to invest into this piece. At any rate, fixing the setting should be less expensive that a replacement setting.

I'm really not sure what the work you need done should cost, since I've not yet needed to replace any stones. Oh, when you do, make sure to get single cuts (if that's what your ring has), because round brilliant melee will not look antique. But take it to a few places if you can, just to see what they say. It may give you a better idea of what the cost should be. And insure that baby - either now or as soon as the work is done. I keep hearing that Jeweler's Mutual will insure diamonds during reset. Their site says no antiques, but I have spoken with them, and they told me antiques in good condition are fine. Maybe just insure the diamond itself?

Oh, also, I believe EGL grades set stones, which GIA does not. I think this is one more reason antiques often have EGL reports, as many pieces are too delicate to take apart and reassemble. So it's possible the diamond has always been tilted.

Please keep us updated!

Kefira, I am near Athens, GA, a small city. The man I took it to both for the estimate on straightening the diamond, and for replacing the 1mm single cut uses a laser welder I believe. That is, he mentioned welding. Maybe I shouldn't assume!

I don't have it insured - yikes. I think my homeowner's insurance has a jewelry rider... I'll ask my DH and also look up jeweler's mutual. Thanks for the reminder!

The EGL report has a photo of the stone by itself... unless they just photo-shopped the ring out, it had to be out of the setting two months ago! I think I will contact the eBay seller - they may not remember as they seem to be a high volume seller.

I loved that setting that you linked to on the jbEG site; but nowhere did I see a price! And I'm a bit spoiled by bargain shopping on eBay I'm afraid.

Thanks for all your comments.

 

[kefira]

It's a lovely ring! It looks to me like the stone is basically just bead set into the box head, but I'm no jeweler. And sure, the setting is a bit banged up, but I would imagine a nice polish would fix all that if you don't like it. It sounds like the patina didn't impress the jeweler, but if you like it, don't polish it. Definitely take it elsewhere and see how different opinions compare.

Is the tilted up part where you can see the girdle a bit? When I got my ering, I managed to drop it like a dummy, and the stone was displaced from one of the prong seats. I had the jeweler rebuild my prongs since they were pretty small and bendy, but he gave me the option of just re-seating the stone. Maybe something similar happened to yours at some point? If the stone wasn't always tilted, it should be fixable with minimal cost. My jeweler said he'd do that for free if that was all I wanted done (rebuilding them cost, of course).

 

[LibbyLA]

lucyruth,

That's a beauty! I'd want to keep it in the original setting myself. I like the setting. Seems like he should be able to do some prong repair. Won't be inexpensive because it's platinum and he's using a laser, but that's the way to go. I think you found a keeper with that one!

liz

 

[lucyruth]

I agree, it sounds like this guy isn't that interested in messing with it! I did email the eBay seller and ask if they had it taken out, etc.

I think when I get it back from the single cut replacement I'll shop it around town here! I also wouldn't be opposed to sending it off if I could get it done well for a modest price.

Thanks Liz! I do think I've found a keeper - it may not be a "perfect" stone lol, but I'm so happy with the way it looks! I can totally like with the setting and I prefer 900 platinum anyway... so I think I'll ask around a little. This guy is supposed to be very good, but he did roll his eyes when I mentioned an EGL certification....

 

[lucyruth]

Re: Bought a ring, added photos!

It's a lovely ring! It looks to me like the stone is basically just bead set into the box head, but I'm no jeweler. And sure, the setting is a bit banged up, but I would imagine a nice polish would fix all that if you don't like it. It sounds like the patina didn't impress the jeweler, but if you like it, don't polish it. Definitely take it elsewhere and see how different opinions compare.

Is the tilted up part where you can see the girdle a bit? When I got my ering, I managed to drop it like a dummy, and the stone was displaced from one of the prong seats. I had the jeweler rebuild my prongs since they were pretty small and bendy, but he gave me the option of just re-seating the stone. Maybe something similar happened to yours at some point? If the stone wasn't always tilted, it should be fixable with minimal cost. My jeweler said he'd do that for free if that was all I wanted done (rebuilding them cost, of course).

Yes, the side with the girdle visible is higher, that's why the culet looks off-center, but it's not really! It seems seated, etc., but maybe the setting is just wonky after so many years!

 

[kefira]

We are posting at the same time! I have been to Athens, I went to college in GA for a year (not UGA). I wish I'd been in north GA, it was a lot more my style than way down south was. I don't know about any jewelers there, though, a Google search shows a few places. Maybe your next visit to Atlanta would give some options, too.

Anyway, I think welding is done by everyone, and is the normal process, but laser welding is special. Like, all sizing is done by welding, but you certainly don't need a laser welder to do it. I hope that's right. I don't know that you would need a laser for your setting though, since it looks kind of like the bead in the middle of each corner (four total) are what hold the diamond. Can you tell if the boxy parts overlap the stone, or is it just the middle bead thingy (so technical)?

And if the stone was out recently, as it does indeed sound like it was, it would seem that the reset just wasn't done very well, so again, it should be an easy fix. I hate to be overly suspicious (I am a cynic), but it sounds more like he just wanted to sell you a new setting.

The JbEG setting is here. It's the third one down ($1250), and a bit too small for your stone, I'm afraid. But they do regularly have vintage settings, and you can sign up for their newsletter on their site. They send a sneak peek each month with discounted prices on new items, which is really cool.

edit: typo, my keyboard is acting wonky today.

 

[kefira]

Oh also - I feel so weird double posting! Is it really allowed here? - If he rolled his eyes at the EGL report, he really probably isn't used to antique diamonds and their marketing. Even so, that's quite rude on his part!

 

[lucyruth]

Hey, that's neat that you've been here... yeah, south GA is not my fav but a lot of people like it... I'm from NC tho so a lot more like the north GA climate!

I guess it is bead set, and the corners of the box are also ever so slightly over the diamond, by the tiniest bit! It certainly doesn't seem very safe to me. I actually squeezed the box a little tighter over the diamond myself! I know that was probably stupid.

I am going to give a couple of other jewelers a look. I never go to Atlanta! Can't take the drive and the crowds!

And yeah, this is a really high end store, at least they seem to think so... so I'm hoping the appraisals take that (antique cuts) into account (different guy - the store owner for the appraisals). He commented that a different stone I have is an oec and I think it's actually an omc, but what do I know? It's a small diamond - I'll post on here for comments when I get it back.

 

[lucyruth]

Wow. I just emailed the vender of the ring (ebay seller) to ask if the stone had been removed, and if they have someone who they'd recommend to straighten it, and they just replied and asked me to send the ring to them and they would have it fixed. Wow again. So I'm going to go by the jeweler's tomorrow and snag it (it was a week's backlog on repairs anyway) and send it off. I am thrilled!

 

[LibbyLA]

lucyruth,

That's fantastic news! Too bad you have to be without it for the time it takes to repair it, but great that the seller will take care of it.

liz

 

[kefira]

That's great! Smart thinking. Now, why didn't I think of that? Must go back to that cynic thing.

 

[Enerchi]

Its beautiful lucyruth!!!! What a find and how wonderful it can be attended to... I love your choice!

 

[lucyruth]

Thanks ladies! Please let me say that I uploaded those pics outside in the bright daylight from my phone, and now I looked at the thread indoors and wow those pics are YELLOW! I have to say the stone isn't yellow! It looks green in some of these photos! It's more of a peachy white irl.

 

[Dreamer_D]

If you love the diamond and the ring, I am not sure I would trust the ebay seller to fix it to your satisfaction Even if they offer to do it for free, they might ruin the mount, which is lovely. But the mount has indeed been mangled in the past, it looks like it was not a bead set mount originally, and they cut the prongs to get the stone out and then put beads in place of the former box prongs. Whoever did that did it poorly. If it was done by the ebay seller, then their bench sucks and I would not trust them to make it right. Personally, I would find my own jeweler to work on it.

ETA:

The photo on the EGL appraisal card is not your diamond, it is a stock image.

The reason there are sanding marks in my opinion is that the mount has box prongs prior, and they were chopped to remove the stone, then poorly sanded down, and beads were then put in place to reset the diamond. Likely this was done by the ebay seller, and done poorly. So your jeweler is correct that the ring shows sanding/setting marks in my opinion. They are not 100 years old, they were made when the stone was taken from the mount. He is describing what would be required to remake the prongs into box prongs. You can perhaps just remove the beads and pull the stone, smooth the sanding marks, and reset it with beads. BUT I would not let the ebay seller do it, or your local guy. I would save up and send it off to Singlestone for a refurbishment if you love the mount. Or reset it all together.

Lovely stone and ring! I remember it on ebay, it is a real treat.

 

[lucyruth]

Yikes, dreamer! Oh dear. What you say does make sense. The mounting looks *ok* from eye distance but these close ups do make it look rough. The seller has tons of beautiful stuff - sflmaven. I want to trust them with it! Not sure what to do now.

The mount - I don't love it. But it is the one I have. I don't know what singlestone can do to make it look lovely, and I would almost rather find a replacement than put money into this one.

I don't have much left to spend on a new setting. But honestly, does it look like that diamond is about to fall out? It does to me.

I almost wouldn't care if the seller's bench did imperfect work on it. At this point. The main thing that scares me is someone chipping the girdle. Though it is a rather thick one I think. I guess I can accept the mount being worn, and I knew that when I bought it. I am a symmetry fiend though and the downhill set of the diamond bugs me constantly.

I like the mount but I don't love it. But where and how to find one that will fit and I can afford, I don't know. Meanwhile if I don't do something this will sit in a box with me afraid I will lose the main stone.

I will think about it. I guess I am thinking this is a kind of throwaway mount - I just want the diamond level and secure until I find something to put it in.

Thanks everyone for comments. Dreamer, I do also appreciate your candid honesty!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Given what you said I would ask a few local jewelers if it seemed secure. Then save for a mount you like. Or I would spend $150 - $250 for a temp. I would not personall send it back to the ebay seller to fix it, they are not a known commodity and I would not trust them at all.

 

[lucyruth]

Well, I've avoided pricescope since this! Sometime between dreamerd's two posts I sent it back!

Probably totally stupid but it was packaged up and I just didn't want to deal with it and didn't know where else to send it without being out a lot... Then I read dreamer's second post and just panicked!

So, I sent it registered, and the tracking number says it's still sitting in a po in Florida for a week now, but the seller said its in his possession and he's taking it to a jeweler today. (so much for the accuracy of registered mail updates) I BEGGED him to ask them to NOT chip the girdle, pretty please! He was extremely kind and helpful, so far. I'm trying not to think about it. he's also replacing the lost side stone.

Meanwhile I took a different platinum band to the "best jeweler in ga" to size down, and it was the worst sizing job I've ever seen. Misshapen globby and pitted, for $85! It's back to fix the pitting. Really disappointed, and won't use him again for any work. Back to looking for a good local bench!

So cross your fingers for me that the first ring makes it back in good condition! I will update.

 

[lucyruth]

OK, this is hard to say, but I guess I'll just go ahead and take the I told you so that I deserve!

I sent the ring back, registered mail, and according to the seller he had it a week ago Thursday, was going to take it to a jeweler a week ago Friday, and nothing since then....

I'm getting sick about it. I've ebay messaged on this Thursday asking for the status, and heard nothing. Messaged again this morning, asking if there was an eta for the repair and return of the ring, and nothing...

The seller is posting listings so he's around somewhere! Perhaps he doesn't have the ring back from the repairs, but gosh I'd like to know that!

Just sharing to let you guys know what's happened. Maybe it will still turn out. I'm scared to death and NOW see the foolishness of sending this ring back! Now the seller has my money and my ring.

*tears* Hoping for the best! Hoping it's just an issue of non-communication.