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Bezel-Set RBs VS. Prong-Set: Which looks larger?

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BonnyLass

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Hi Everyone!

For a RB diamond that''s about 2.25 cts, would it look larger in a bezel-set, mille grained design, a la James Myer, or in a traditional 6 or 4 prong with tapered baguettes on either side? Also, this diamond has some warmth to it (which I happen to love), so would a bezel setting in a white metal make it appear more or less yellow?

This is all about my mother''s diamond that she was given for her engagement and I''m going to use in the future for my engagement ring. My parents are divorced so she no longer wears it. I think it''s very kind of her to offer me this family heirloom! Thanks for the advice and ideas!
 

arjunajane

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Hi bonnylass and welcome!

Yes, it will most likely look bigger in a bezel as the extra mm or two it adds gives that illusion - however a 6 prong can also do that.
If this is an old diamond, depending on the cut it may have a thin girdle, so a bezel is a good idea then - do you have a photo of it?

What is the colour grade? The general thinking is that setting a warmer coloured stone in a white metal could improve its face up appearance, but alot of people think the opposite is true.
Basically there's no steadfast rule because every diamond and setting is different, imho.
I have a K and love the slight warmth.

I always say to people just go with the design and metal colour that you love - in the end it will make you happier than trying to make a diamond look bigger or white (unless your diamond has some kind of structural issue that needs attention of course.).

Plus, 2.25cts is plenty large!

Perhaps you can look back through Coatimundi's threads, as she initially had her diamond prong set now has her lovely JM bezel - that should give you an idea.
Which JM design do you like?
 

BonnyLass

Rough_Rock
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Dec 19, 2008
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Hi Arjunajane!

My mother has the ring in Florida with her (I''m in DC) so I don''t have pictures of it. Also, I don''t have her original appraisal specs to look at and I doubt she''d be able to find it, lol. I know in the future I''d need to get it appraised again.

My mom says that even though it''s 2.25 carats its cut gives it a diameter of a stone that''s closer to a 2.5 carat. I''m very much a newbie here, so please bear with me. Would this mean that the stone is shallower to allow for it to be wider on the top? I''m also guessing that the color is in the range of K-L-M. I actually hadn''t thought of going with a bezel until I saw the user''s example that you''re talking about (Coatimundi or something like that?). I adore the antique feeling the mille grain lends to a diamond.

James Myer tends to work more with older cuts, which I also adore, though my stone will be a modern RB. Since Modern RBs are more flat on the top, would the bezel still show off the stone as well?

On the other hand, I do love the classic simplicity of the prong solitaire with tapered baguettes on either side. I haven''t seen many examples of more warm-colored stones with baguettes though.

Anyways, I''m so glad this forum is here so I can indulge in my diamond musings! I''m nowhere near getting engaged, LOL, but I do love planning the ring!
 

arjunajane

Ideal_Rock
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Jan 18, 2008
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9,758
Hi bonnylass,
I''m not one of the resident diamond pros unfortunately, so not the best to ask - but yes that kind of difference in diameter could indicate being quite shallow cut. As far as what that means for whether you should bezel or no, I''m afraid I can''t say.
If you''re able to get the measurements, others could better advise you on that.

Yep, JM does like to work in old cuts, but Coati''s ring is a modern RB, and I am currently having him make a ring with a modern cushion cut coloured gem - honestly, I don''t think that matters. His work is lovely and imo versatile.
As to your bezel and crown (top of the diamond) question, again I''m sure it would be fine. You won''t obviously get that nice look of the high crown over the bezel, but you can look to Coatimundi''s for reference - which imo still looks incredible. (But without seeing the diamond or numbers I can''t say 100%.).
JM would be able to advise you - I imagine he would have dealt with that before most likely.

You can always just have the baguettes matched to your centre stone, than nobody would be any the wiser. Unless a diamond is really warm, the tone is usually only noticeable when set right next to stones of higher colour grades.

I agree it is generous that you will be receiving this diamond, how exciting for you! And yes, PS is lots of fun
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Gypsy

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
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40,225
I have a step cut, so it doesn''t have the light return of an ideal round. Since I reset my diamond in a prong set halo with small prongs and a very open gallery for the culet it is brighter and the angle my halo is set at reflects the flashes from the melee into the center. Plus it looks .50 mm larger, nothing to sneeze at. I''m convinced that if you want to brighten (and I''m not talking about taking the color up, I''m talking about make it appear more brilliant) and make a stone look larger... I recommend a halo like mine, frankly. Small prongs, diamond set above it so that the girdle is set right above metal line of the halo, and the culet is left open, and a well done halo.

If you bezel it, depending on the cut there is a chance it could darken the stone. If you prong set in a halo or a ring of metal it will look larger and, depending on the halo it could brighten it.
 

Lorelei

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Date: 2/22/2009 12:22:04 AM
Author: BonnyLass
Hi Arjunajane!

My mother has the ring in Florida with her (I''m in DC) so I don''t have pictures of it. Also, I don''t have her original appraisal specs to look at and I doubt she''d be able to find it, lol. I know in the future I''d need to get it appraised again.

My mom says that even though it''s 2.25 carats its cut gives it a diameter of a stone that''s closer to a 2.5 carat. I''m very much a newbie here, so please bear with me. Would this mean that the stone is shallower to allow for it to be wider on the top? I''m also guessing that the color is in the range of K-L-M. I actually hadn''t thought of going with a bezel until I saw the user''s example that you''re talking about (Coatimundi or something like that?). I adore the antique feeling the mille grain lends to a diamond.

James Myer tends to work more with older cuts, which I also adore, though my stone will be a modern RB. Since Modern RBs are more flat on the top, would the bezel still show off the stone as well?

On the other hand, I do love the classic simplicity of the prong solitaire with tapered baguettes on either side. I haven''t seen many examples of more warm-colored stones with baguettes though.

Anyways, I''m so glad this forum is here so I can indulge in my diamond musings! I''m nowhere near getting engaged, LOL, but I do love planning the ring!
We would need the proportions, depth, table etc and diameter to know this. Also greater spread isn''t always beneficial.
 

BonnyLass

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 19, 2008
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Gypsy, thanks so much for those tips. I hadn''t thought about a bezel possibly darkening the stone. Lorelei, you''re definitely right about the greater spread not necessarily being an advantage. I can''t wait to be able to get an appraisal done in the future so I can share its unique dimensions with all you knowledgable PSers!

So generally spreaking, a Meyer-esque bezel would look best on a stone that has some depth to it?

Thanks to everyone!
 

Lorelei

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Date: 2/22/2009 8:03:41 AM
Author: BonnyLass
Gypsy, thanks so much for those tips. I hadn''t thought about a bezel possibly darkening the stone. Lorelei, you''re definitely right about the greater spread not necessarily being an advantage. I can''t wait to be able to get an appraisal done in the future so I can share its unique dimensions with all you knowledgable PSers!

So generally spreaking, a Meyer-esque bezel would look best on a stone that has some depth to it?

Thanks to everyone!
You are most welcome and I look forward to the appraisal details when you have them!
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